[Two pass reloaders, is the 1st pass before or after cleaning brass???]

12 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

After sorting my brass using an old Frankfort Arsenal vibratory cleaner mounted to a 5 gallon bucket and the plastic colored brass sorting trays (turn it on and let the vibratory unit do the rest) 

 

Ok Mark, I’ve been wanting to do this for a while with the small size Dillon tumbler I saved when I upgraded to the larger size. 
 

do we have a thread just for making this with pics and a list of everything I need and how to do it?  

 

Can I nominate you for the task???

 

[Two pass reloaders, is the 1st pass before or after cleaning brass???]

9 hours ago, Johnnymazz said:

The tolorences are super tight on the RL1100. If you get one little piece of corn cobb fall into the primer bar system it will get jammed up or not prime a case. Also it keeps the loading machine nice and clean. Thats why Im running ther Cp2000 and the RL1100. Once Dillon comes out with their version of the Ammobot drive system. Im going to get another full automated RL1100. Dedicated machine just to prime cases. 

My primer slide has been getting sticky, so even though I’ve loaded less than 5k rounds I think it’s time to break down and clean/lube the press. I guess I’ll learn a bit more about my press in the process. 

[What are spent primers worth these days?]

Ok, both interesting points, I’ve never been to a recycling/scrap yard before. Sounds like a job for one of my kids…

[Glock Gen3 vs Gen5 chrono differences…]

34 minutes ago, rpm8300 said:

I see about a 15fps drop between my Gen 4 G34 and my Gen 5.  That being said, with Blues and Molys, both guns are about 30 fps faster than non-Glock counterparts, i.e. CZ and Tanfo.

Interesting, I’ll have to remember to bring my Gen4 G17 next time to see where that chronos. Seems like you also support the results I am getting with regard to non Glocks. 

[What are spent primers worth these days?]

42 minutes ago, 4n2t0 said:

So they're worthless, lol.

All depends on how many lbs you have, and if the recycling center is conveniently located I guess. 

[Two pass reloaders, is the 1st pass before or after cleaning brass???]

6 hours ago, warpspeed said:

 

In short, since it is done after decaping, the primer pockets are cleaned as is the inside.  I've done it for my bolt gun stuff ( 6 CM,  6 GT, etc ) but not 223 or 9mm. 

 

The brass can come out looking like new. 

Thanks, I did some digging after I posted, and I don’t think it’s for me. I only load pistol calibers, and 90% of that is 9mm. I never cared what my brass looked like, as long as it functioned flawlessly. I will stick with dry tumbling for now at least. 
 

[Limited Minor]

I just earned a 7-day suspension!. 
 

is it time yet???

[Two pass reloaders, is the 1st pass before or after cleaning brass???]

What is all the fuss about wet tumbling?  Is it really much better than corn cob tumbling?  Sounds messy, how do you even do it?  How big a batch of brass can you do at a time?

 

theres probably a whole discussion here already I should go look for….

[RL1100 Die SCRAMBLE - Stepping outside of my comfort zone]

2 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

 

Sorry.  If I still had it I'd sure offer it to you!

 

no problem, I’m sure the Lee and Dillon I have will be fine. I got the toolhead in today, and the FW Arms dies shipped today, so I should be ready to start processing soon. 

[Limited Minor]

20 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:

I can't be competitive in open with out a dot we should have Limited with comps.

I can't be competitive in open with out a comp, we should have open with out comps

I can't be competitive in open with minor we should have open minor

I can't be competitive in open with 140's we should have mid cap open

I can't be competitive in open with a skinny gun we should have OG-Open

I can't be competitive in open with a slide mounted dot. We should have SAO-CO

I can't be competitive in open with a 40, we should have a division for that

I can't be competitive in Limited with a minor gun we should have limited minor

I can't be competitive in limited with a 45 we should have Lords-Limited

I can't be competitive in limited without a 2011 we should have striker limited

I can't be competitive in any division with my carry gun we should have a carry division

I can't be competitive in CO with a plastic gun we should have CO light and heavy like the rest of the world.

I can't be competitive at SS nats with a minor gun it should be two divisions

I can't be competitive in Revo with a major gun it should be two divisions

I can't shoot a revolver in CO, we should have Revo optics

I can't be competitive in PCC with irons it should be a division. 

I can't be competitive in.........

 

 

 

There should probably be a speed loader division for revo too. Can't believe I missed that one

 

 

Finally, somebody who gets it...

And, of course, everybody should get a participation trophy, and we should stop keeping score altogether so we don't hurt anyone's feelings.

 

 

[Limited Minor]

1 hour ago, Ssanders224 said:

This thread is a dumpster fire. 

 

I'm really over this whole "we need to have a spot for everyone and what they want to shoot" idea.

Stop it. That's not now competitive sports work, and that's not what makes them attractive to COMPETITORS. 

 

I totally agree about the dumpster fire. 
 

But, we do have a place for everyone to shoot what they want. There are VERY few guns that wouldn’t fit into one of the existing divisions.  So everyone can come and play. You just might not win, so you need to learn to deal with that. 
 

I remember my first ever IDPA match many, many years ago. It was the only match going on that weekend and I wanted to shoot. I brought my Production rig and showed them what I brung and told them to put me in whatever division it fit into. They were trying to explain all the rule differences between USPSA and IDPA, when they were done I said look, I promise I’ll be safe. As for all the other rules, I’m going to shoot each stage however I want. Feel free to asses penalties as I acquire them. And they did. By the end of the match, I was RO’ing other shooters because they needed the help. I had fun, and I didn’t win, or get any trophies. 

[RL1100 Die SCRAMBLE - Stepping outside of my comfort zone]

50 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:

As a side note..............

 

The Lee U-Die sizes -.003"; the Redding Titanium Carbide Die sizes -.002".  According to Redding......

 

 

 

thanks,

do you know what the Dillon carbide sizing die and Lee standard size carbide die size at???

 

Turns out my U-die is in 40 cal from my Limited division shooting days, so if you want to sell the 9mm undersize die I’d be interested. Nobody seems to have them in stock. 

[Limited Minor]

On 6/14/2020 at 5:37 AM, Brooke said:

 

Anyway I can tell you there is nothing like shooting a 2011 custom gun. They are usually expensive but who the hell cares. They are fun fun fun. Go there and never come back to a mundane platform again.

I totally disagree with you. I shot an STI Eagle, and then had a custom SVI Sight tracker built for me by SVI and I’d rather shoot my Glock any day of the week. It feels better in my hand, and I actually shoot better with the Glock. And I never have to care about dropping my $150 custom tuned mags in the mud because it’s raining on match day. 
 

Don’t get me wrong, I’m NOT saying my Glock is better than my SVI, not even close. The SVI is a beauty and a work of art. I hope one day my kids enjoy it when they inherit it. But I’m more comfortable shooting a Glock, and for me it’s all about FUN. 

[RL1100 Die SCRAMBLE - Stepping outside of my comfort zone]

On 7/1/2021 at 7:15 PM, George16 said:

I do a two-step processing /loading for 9mm.

 

Here’s my processing tool head on the right. It has the following:

Station 2 - FW Arms decapper 

Station 3 - Dillon rifle hold down die  (you can see the rifle hold down die on the second picture; bottom left. This is an extra die lying around this since I’m using an FW Arms Swage hold down for rifle processing)

Station 4 - empty

station 5 - empty

station 6 - empty

station 7 - Lee U-die without the decapping pin 

Station 8 - Redding recapping/sizing die (it’s just an extra laying around so I put it in to make sure no primers get by) 

 

 

Hey George,

I’m rereading this thread (again) and have a question. 
 

On your processing toolhead, any reason why you wouldn’t swap the last two sizing does so that the Redding die goes first and the Lee undersize die for after that???

 

Would it put less strain on the press/brass to size it down in steps that way?  
 

otherwise, in your config, why not skip the Redding sizing die altogether and just put the decapping pin in the undersize die?

 

I am asking because I’m considering multiple sizing/decapping steps in my processing setup and thought that sizing in steps from regular then undersize might be better. 
 

but, I may also just be over analyzing things. 
 

thanks. 

[RL1100 Die SCRAMBLE - Stepping outside of my comfort zone]

Is it worth adding a Lee undersize die as the final step in the processing toolhead on my RL 1100?

 

My current plan, based on advice in this thread is to use a FW Arms “popper” decapper, FW Swage hold down, then either a Lee or Dillon carbide sizer with decap pin as a backup. I am wondering if I should just use both the Dillon and Lee sizing/decapping dies, or even add the Undersize die in the last spot??

 

what could possibly go wrong with extra sizing/decapping operations if the spots are available on the toolhead and wouldn’t be doing anything anyway. 

I already have the dies, so no extra cost to use them. Is the undersize die worth it?

 

also, this would be for jacketed Bullets. I think the process might be different for coated, but not sure. 
 

[Is the 650 worth automating?]

16 minutes ago, Pickin said:

Mark, 

Good to know.  What if I were to take out the swage step?  Would it still be worth it for all the other steps?

I guess that depends on what press you planned to load on after you prepped the brass. Would it be on the same 650?

 

whether or not the swage step matters to you is where your brass comes from. Mine is mostly range pickup, so it became important to me. 
YMMV. 

[What are spent primers worth these days?]

A few phone calls to local recycle centers in my area says they are currently worth $1.90 - $2.00 per pound. 

Thanks all.

 

[Limited Minor]

2 hours ago, Schutzenmeister said:

 

Uhh ... No.  Point of fact:  You WANT your calibration ammo to be slightly sub minor to ensure a minor load at 125 will work.  Reference: Appendix C1, #2.

 

1 hour ago, shred said:

Winchester 115 FMJ WB and USA Ready and USA Forged so on are listed at 136.8 PF on their website

Winchester 124 GR WB is listed at 141 PF.

Winchester 147 GR WB is listed at 145 PF.

 

If it any random lot actually makes that in your gun?  YMMV.

 

I guess that makes it pretty clear how little I know on the subject. 
 

Carry on gentlemen…

[Limited Minor]

46 minutes ago, shred said:

125 PF was based on Factory .38 Special.  That's as dead as Modified Division for matches.

 

Most cheap (in normal times) factory 9x19 ammo is above 135 PF.

 

IPSC has different PFs for different divisions if we really want that.

 

I have a vague recollection of Winchester White Box chrono graphing at 120-125 some years ago. 
 

In fact, didn’t USPSA issue a ruling that it wasn’t supposed to be used as calibration ammo at matches quite a few years ago because it wasn’t making minor?  I think it was about 10 years ago roughly. 
 

 

damn, and I swore I wasn’t going to participate in this thread…

[What are spent primers worth these days?]

I've been saving the spent primers from my 550 into a jug for a few years now.  I have a few pounds collected.  Does anyone know what a pound of spent primers is worth at the recycling center?  What kind of place do you bring them to?  I probably have about 10 pounds, so it's not like it's a fortune or anything.  I was just wondering what you are all doing with them.

 

Thanks,

-Cuz

[RL 1100 new press setup issues.]

10 hours ago, ddc said:

@Cuzwhere did all the powder go? 

 

125 rounds is a lot of powder.... just sayin...

 

Right into the bin with the loaded rounds. Normally I dump that bin into another bin every 25-30 rounds, but I was going for the record to see how fast I could load 100. 
 

I guess it’s time to order the Hornady collet bullet puller and to dust off the single stage press a friend gave me some years ago. Never thought I’d be using it. 

[RL 1100 new press setup issues.]

6 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:

Cuz:

Don't sweat it...........WE ALL MAKE MISTAKES!  And I bet you won't let that happen again! 

 

BTW:  Low primer alarm not working?  

I deserved that. 
I pulled the rod out when it went off, and got distracted, I forgot to put in the primers and the rod. 
 

And your right, won’t do that again. 

[RL 1100 new press setup issues.]

Arghh!!!
I just loaded 125 rounds in under 4 minutes on my new press. 
 

Then, I realized that I forgot to put primers in the primer tube!  Ughh!

 

Talk about a damn rookie mistake...

 

I think this post belongs in the “beginners” forum…

[RL 1100 new press setup issues.]

2 hours ago, ddc said:

 

As far as I know the Dillon has not documented the complete disassemble/reassemble process for either the 1050 or the 1100. 

However there are numerous Youtube videos for the 1050 and the 1100 is so similar that they can be used for the 1100 as well.

It may seem a bit much the first time you do it but there is really only one way to put it back together so don't worry about that.

Once you've done it a few times it becomes a very straightforward process.

I've used the following: 

 

Nice video, thanks for pointing it out. 

[RL 1100 new press setup issues.]

28 minutes ago, Johnnymazz said:

Yes that includes the priming system, full breakdown and clean of the entire machine

How long does that take?

Is the process to do that documented anywhere?  I was looking at a bunch of Dillon videos just to see how to remove the tool head, and after checking a few where I knew it would be removed, they all started with it already removed. It looks like it’s just that big bolt on top, but how much torque should be used to retighten it?