Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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34 minutes ago, AHI said:
Load away. You are seeing the difference in the profile. Would recommend checking Power factor.
You may find the MG are slightly lower. Has nothing to do with OAL. Its the jacket material.
Ha, no doubt I will chrono the load in all our pistols before churning out any quantity of ammo. I expect to end up with an OAL between 1.05-1.15 but haven’t given it any serious thought yet. I was just wondering what the rest of you were doing.
right now I have the “processing” toolhead on and am working through some brass while I ponder my next steps. I’m also still looking at that bucket of about 150 rounds I loaded without primers and wondering when I should start pulling them now that the collet puller has arrived. Nah, I think I’ll just put those aside for a few months…
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21 minutes ago, konkapot said:
The shirt did not say the letter to spell out that particular word; it actually had the symbols I typed. There was no actual profanity on the shirt.
In that case, I wouldn’t give him the pleasure of letting him know I cared about his shirt, and if it happened when my kids were just starting to shoot USPSA at age 12 it would become a teaching moment that we would discuss after the match.
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1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - How about I call Cousin Steve and tell him that you and Boom and I will be happy to be three Beta testing sites for Dillon’s new auto drive system they say they are about to release?
Now you’re talking Mark, I like the sound of that, LOL.
And here I was just hoping for maybe free shipping and no sales tax added on.
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7 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - I am loading my PD 124JHP at 1.094835”(
) but my Dillon tends to range them around 1.092” to 1.098” sitting on top of 3.5grs. of 231…..Powder Puff load that cycles and functions 100%:in my 226’s, P320X5, and PPC…..For shooting Steel Challenge why waste the powder with a heavier load…..Mark
Ha, I don’t do steel challenge. For me it’s some USPSA and mostly knockdown steel that isn’t always calibrated, so I like the 129-135 PF loads.
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Hey all, I'm just getting started on a couple of cases of 9mm Montana Gold 124gr JHP bullets and was wondering what you are all using for an OAL?
I just went through a few thousand of the Precision Delta 124gr JHP bullets loaded to 1.086" and had great results. Without any adjustments to the press, I loaded a handful of the MG bullets and they were about 1.09x". I can certainly load them like that and not have to worry about going back and forth between those two bullet brands as availability permits.
I shoot mostly Glocks, with an occasional STI, and Ruger PCC thrown into the mix. The plunk test isn't really a factor as just about any length will plunk. I do want to keep them under 1.125" to prevent any issues with the Taylor Freelance Goliath base pad I use for the PCC.
Anyway, I was just wondering what you were all loading to for OAL with this bullet. My only previous experience with Montana Gold was about 12 years ago when I shot .40 cal in Limited.
As a point of reference, I'm using 3.9gr of TiteGroup to get me anywhere from 129-135 PF depending on which Glock or the STI that I chrono.
Thanks,
-Cuz
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1 hour ago, George16 said:
I recommend the endoscope. I actually have two of them. One is used for monitoring powder in the cases while the other camera is mounted underneath so I can see that each case has a primer in it. I had problems of cases not having primers and making a mess once I get in the hang of just pulling the handle.
There’s no way to feel a primer is getting installed on a case like the resistance felt on the 559/650/750 since the 1050/1100 primes on the downstroke.
My wife actually asked me how come I don’t automate and I told her I like pulling the handle better. At least it gives me something to do and I get my biceps and triceps worked out too
. I process a lot of .223 (at least 5k in each session) and I just enjoy pulling the handle. I also tear it apart for cleaning after each processing or loading session.
I don’t know why it never seemed to bother me on my 550, but for some reason, pulling the handle on the 1100 got old after about a month. -
1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - Quick question. On your second pass will you be using a camera system (that you have the capability to watch) to monitor your powder drop or a powder check die or neither? Just curious since I am guessing with the two pass process you have the capability to add this while also using the MBF and a separate seat and crimp die set up (if you reloacte your powder drop stage over one to drop sooner as previously discussed)…..Got ya thinking about it now - don’t I…….Mark
Always thinking about everything Mark, mostly I do way too much thinking and end up over-complicating everything. My current plan is not to use anything to monitor the powder drop. However, with that said, I do have an endoscope saved in my Amazon list based on other threads here, so that is subject to change at any moment. I definitely will NOT use a powder check die, so it will be a camera or nothing. And, now that you've got me thinking about it (again), I'm pretty sure I'll order the camera long before I'm able to get my hands on an autodrive since nobody seems to have them and Mark 7 says 4-8 weeks for delivery.
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I know just about everyone is in favor of the swage sense on their autodrives. But am I correct in assuming it’s only function is to stop the press if a primer didn’t get ejected? I know it will also detect a small primer hole in 45acp too, but I’m talking about just 9mm pistol brass. My pre-processing head has 3 decapping dies and I’m about to add a 4th in the form of the Lee undersize die when it comes in. My loading toolhead Will also have one, so I just don’t think a primer not getting ejected is going to be an issue.
As far as the extra maintenance with two passes, I wonder about that too. I’ve processed a few thousand cases, and the press hardly looks dirty at all, and when I switch to loading ammo, I expect the press to cycle much smoother because the brass will already be sized. I don’t expect any powder spillages. I guess I’ll just have to wait and see.
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I’m planning to buy an autodrive for my RL 1100 press. I see that Ben Stoeger, Double Alpha, and Mark 7 reloading all sell them. Is there a “preferred” place to buy them? Does anyone have them in stock? Are there any discount codes or sales on the near term horizon that I can take advantage of?
Thanks.
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3 hours ago, ddc said:
Edited to add: One thing that will make your life much, much, simpler is going to a two pass strategy. I fought against that for about 10k rounds but eventually accepted the inevitable. Unsuccessful decapping can result in a lot of mess if you are loading powder at the same time. Getting that out of the way prior to a loading run is worth it's weight in gold.
I agree, and think 2 pass loading eliminates the need for some of the sensors. If you’re automated, 2 passes is easy. It’s a bit more of a pain if your pulling the handle, as I’ve recently pulled the handle more than 500 times and I don’t have a loaded round to show for it.
im planning to add an undersize die at the end of the processing run which will offer yet another chance to decap any primers that make it past the other two decappers.
im hoping that will make the losing pass super smooth.
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Great timing to revive this thread. I shoot less than 10k rounds a year, and recently upgraded from a 550 to the 1100, mostly for convenience. After only a couple of months with the 1100, and I think I’m ready to automate, mostly to save wear on my aging body.
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On 11/13/2017 at 4:21 PM, Want2BS8ed said:
I pull the case off prior to the powder drop. Tare the empty case with primer on the scale. Replace, cycle and weight to get the amount of powder. Back on the shell plate and don't miss a beat.
Easy-peezy and second nature now...
M
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Wow, I can’t believe I never thought of this. And to think, for the last 8 or 9 years, since I got my digital scale, I’ve been using the little pan, taring that, then dumping in the powder to weigh it, then dumping it back into the case.
Who would have thought it could be so much simpler. I love it when I get a great tip that comes out of left field when I’m researching something totally unrelated.
Thanks!
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1 hour ago, o27 said:
SRO keeps being unavailable, any thought so some of the cheaper brands like: https://www.ipscstore.com/en/vector-optics/10566-vector-optics-scrd-36-frenzy-1x22x26-mos-red-dot-sight.html
seems to have similar window as the SRO
Ive only recently acquired one SRO and like it, but I’m also using the Holosun HS507C on multiple other guns and like that as an alternative. I definitely like the SRO better. -
5 hours ago, mveto said:
No it does not come with the low primer sensor. I thought the same thing when I bought mine, but it is extra.
Ok, thanks, so I guess the way around it would be to tell the press to stop after 100 rounds, which would be annoying. The low primer sensor is only $30 so that one, and the remote stop button are reasonably priced.
with 2 pass processing for pistol ammo, and virtually 100% decapping during the first pass, I think those are the only options I will need to get started. -
1 hour ago, ddc said:
3 passes?
I know a lot use two passes especially if automated.
How will your three passes be set up?
Sorry, I meant 2 passes, but on the first “processing” pass there would be a total of 3 decapping dies installed in Stations 2, 6, and 7. -
Does 2 pass reloading eliminate the need for the swage sensor?
on the first pass to process 9mm brass, I will have an FW Arms Popper decapper in station 2, and then a Lee sizing/decapping die in stage 6, and a Dillon size/decapping die in station 7.
Thats 3 decapping attempts for each case, not to mention that when I actually load the ammo I’ll have a Dillon size/decap die in station 2.
Heck I may even add a Lee undersize die to the last station on the processing run if I think it’s needed.
These sensors significantly add to the cost. I think I’ll start slow and watch everything. I’m not really trying to get more speed than I can load by hand cranking, I’m just trying to save my arm from having to do all the cranking.
The remote stop button is about the only extra I think may be essential as it’s faster than trying to hit the stop button on the tablet when you don’t have any depth perception… -
Ok, after processing about 500 rounds on my 1100, I don’t think I can hold out until winter to order an autodrive pro.
Can anyone confirm if it comes with a low primer sensor or is it extra? I know they sell one for $30, but I thought I read somewhere that it already had one included.
I figure if I’m going to use 3 passes to load 9mm, I think I can skip any sensors to start with to minimize costs. But I would like it to stop on its own when the primers are low. I do plan to get the $30 remote stop button and plan to stay and monitor the press while it’s running.
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1 minute ago, euxx said:
They are working on it. You may have to contact them about release date.
Out of curiosity, what features are you expecting from it that aren't available in other timers?
BlueTooth???Sorry, couldn’t resist.
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1 hour ago, louu said:
The sooner we stop buying them at ridiculous prices and limits the sooner things will be back to normal.
Yes, I wish you all would quit buying them… -
6 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello, get a green laser/light combo with your iron sights. Much easier to learn and use. Thanks, Eric
Either green or red, but this is clearly the best answer for inexperienced users. With a laser you don’t even have to look at the gun or through a red dot window. Something that comes on when the grip is held firmly. Especially when you may have to shoot around a corner or from behind cover in an awkward position where you can’t get behind the sights. Heck, you could even get hits on target with your hands tied behind your back, and don’t discount the affect a red dot in the center of a person’s chest has on their willingness to continue with their actions.
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27 minutes ago, SGT_Schultz said:
If it the gun doesn't hit in the same spot as before, the sight is broken (lost zero). If it does, your marksmanship needs help.
Or, one of the screws may have come loose. I snapped the head off one of the screws holding the mounting plate to the slide of my Glock MOS last week at a match. The red dot was mounted to the plate, but the plate and site combo was wiggling. When I got it home and removed the dot I saw the snapped screw head.
Also, you should understand about bullet trajectory and after you mount the dot, and chrono your ammo, and measure the dot height above the bore, you can plot a bullet trajectory curve to help you decide the best range to zero the gun. I think you’ll find that somewhere in that 10-20yard range works such that over a long distance (for pistols), you will always be hitting within 1” above or below you point of aim which should be plenty good enough.
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On 7/15/2021 at 6:49 PM, Boomstick303 said:
Even if I had the funds I would probably still but another complete press for resale value alone. The market for 1050/1100 is a lot larger than the market for CP2000s.
Isn’t a CP2000 just an RL1100 with a few missing pieces???
How much more would it cost to buy a CP2000 and the parts to make it an RL1100?
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1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - Per your request
Picture 1 shows how I removed the "bowl" from the FA vibratory unit and replaced it with a 3 gallon bucket. You will also see I attached the bottom of the FA unit to a round piece of scrap aluminum to make the base wider and more stable because when you turn this think on it wants to move around a bit....
Picture 2 shows how I used the provided all threaded bolt that came with the FA unit and drilled a hole in the bottom of the 3 gallon bucket, added a fender washer, and tightened the wing nut.
Picture 3 shows what the FA unit looks like with the FIRST 3 gallon bucket attached (note the # 1 on the side of the bucket)....
Picture 4 shows a second 3 gallon bucket with the bottom cut 90% out (leave a 1" ring around the outside to hold the aluminum 380 sorting plate in place)... This bucket is labeled # 2 and when inserted also holds the BLACK plastic sorting tray on its top opening.
Picture 5 - Shows Bucket 2 with the black plastic sorting tray (have to look close) as well as bucket top # 3 and # 4 and their sorting trays. I cut the top off of two - 3 gallon buckets to allow more brass to be sorted between sorting cycles. You can use the colored trays without the spacers but you will have to stop more often to empty the trays as they start filling up with sorted brass.
And Picture 6 - Shows the entire system assembled and how I use it. I dump brass into the top and each tray will sort specific brass. Just under the number 4 - you can barely see the "blue" plastic sorting tray and under the number 3 - you can barely see the "black" plastic sorting tray.
After you remove the top trays and are left with the "black" plastic tray - this tray contains all of your 9mm and 380 brass. You pour that into a container on the side and when you are finished with your primary sorting you then remove all of the trays and spacers. LEAVE bucket # 2 on the system with the aluminum 380 tray in its bottom (remember I cut out 90% of this buckets bottom to hold the 380 aluminum sorting tray).....Now you pour in 9mm and 380 mixed brass that you pulled from your "black" plastic tray earlier and all 380 brass will go through the aluminum tray in the bottom of bucket 2 and will rest in the bottom of bucket 1 that is attached to the FA vibratory unit.
The key to this working well is to NOT over load this aluminum tray - I drop in a handful of the 9mm/380 mixed brass every 10-15 seconds and then stick my hand into the bottom of the bucket and "swirl" the vibrating brass around to ensure all 380 brass has the opportunity to make good surface contact with the 380 aluminum tray. Once the tray surface is covered with brass - I again "swirl" the brass around with my hand and then remove bucket 2 from the system (leaving the vibrator running), carefully dump out the 9mm brass that the aluminum tray caught into a separate container, put the # 2 bucket back into the unit and repeat.....I also wear ear plugs and headphones while I do this because this entire process is loud and it gets louder when you are pouring brass onto the aluminum tray. When I am finished all 380 brass is in the bottom of bucket one - where it is removed and put into its own special container with its other 380 friends......Hope this helps you and/or others...Not saying my way is the best way but I recently sorted 30 gallons of mixed brass thru this unit and it took me about 90 minutes total time to complete the sorting and I was not rushing anything....Mark
Thanks Mark,how did you cut the bucket rings?
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Just now, Johnnymazz said:
Wet sand the primer set up like I suggested.
Yeah, but first I have to work up the nerve to take it all apart.
I think another hour of YouTube videos will get me there…
Preferred OAL for Montana Gold 124gr JHP?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
No, my question was about the OAL that you all are using. Not what I will be using. I have no problem coming up with an OAL. I was just curious what everyone else was doing.
I’ve always used Berry’s RN for my 9mm loads for over 10 years and have just recently switched to JHP Bullets. I always wonder, mostly out of curiosity, what others are doing, and sometimes I let it influence what I do based on the data.