Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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Ha, I was just coming here tonight to find out which mount I needed to put a Holosun HS507C on my S&W 625 Revo. It seems like Allchin and EGW seem to make a mount that will work as long as your revolver is already drilled and tapped. I have an Allchin for a Burris FastFire that seems well made, so I'll probably get another one for the Holosun. Not sure what footprint the 510C uses if you wanted to remove it from the rail to mount it.
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13 minutes ago, Indy574 said:
Jagerwerks will, but there is a $20 up charge to install a SS plug in the slotted channel for proper screw engagement.
I sure wish I'd known this before I sent my slide off to someone else to butcher it...
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On 6/10/2021 at 9:31 AM, GrumpyOne said:
Great option. Lose the rear site and top rail, put a dot in the rear site dovetail, TandemKross bushing and Volquartsen sear and you'll be good to go as far as the pistol is concerned.
I'm not sure I agree. Might be better to teach the kid how to shoot iron sights before introducing him to a red dot. It will be harder to start, but I think he'll be better off. It will be harder to learn iron sights after shooting a dot. Just my $.02 worth.
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2 hours ago, DirtBag said:
Ready for "Constructive" feedback.
I ordered the Tension reset spring for the MBF already. Still need to further adjust that as well since I'm getting maybe 2/100 rounds upside down.
No range data yet.
It looks like you need to adjust the flipper ledge up on your bullet feeder. It’s a little plastic piece that slides in/out. You need to set it so that a bullet that’s right side up just slides over without dropping into the shelf that flips it. If a bullet is upside down, the pointed profile will cause it to drop down and be flipped over.
Also, it’s possible that you aren’t flaring the case enough to get the bullet to stay seated on the case when the dropper drops it on.
These suggestions are from a very inexperienced RL1100 reloader, so if anyone suggests anything that contradicts me you should assume that they are right and I am wrong.
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3 hours ago, Johnnymazz said:
Cuz I take the powder measure apart after every loading cession, which is approx 2,000 rounds. Wipe down the powder bar with alcohol , Clean out all the residue. These machines have tighter tolerances than the 650. They need to cleaned and serviced when its needed . I only use CFE pistol for my 9mm loading, I have zero powder on the shell plate. Hope this helps.
Well that's interesting. I don't think I've ever taken a powder measure apart and cleaned it in over 25 years! And I have 4 of them for my 550 press. I'll have to keep an eye on it the next time I break down the press to switch from loading to processing, which should be in about 1000 more rounds, as soon as I get a chance to chrono my current test load.
I'm not sure I understand how the Lyman M die works. How is your processing toolhead setup? What do you use in the powder drop station that doesn't flare the case?
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2 hours ago, Sinister4 said:
yup, the wolff 4.5 with the 13 does work pretty well, and i'll try the 15 today, I have every spring known to man in the old tool box, be interesting if its just barely not going into battery, but so far Zero sign of that,(but who knows) primer strikes both light and normal exactly centered and brass fine. Be nice if I had a "accurate" spring load tester Extended guide rods here as well with centering bushing I make, I have some jager normal rods with other spring I can try too. Its more anoying than anything else as the 13-4-lightweight-my load always worked and now I have to mess with it, but it gives my something to do lol
Lol, I know what you mean about all those springs. And, I couldn't agree more about hating to mess with a favorite combination that's worked for you.
Keep us posted. I'm curious what ends up solving the problem. For me, I think I'm going back to my Gen3 G34 and will probably shelve the Gen5.
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You should buy Brian’s book and read it. It will answer many questions and get you started in the right direction.
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1 hour ago, Sinister4 said:
More than i'd like 13 pound recoil, 4 pound striker, id say umm 4-6 light strikes per 100, federal primers, 5 pound striker zero issues, same deal in 2 gen 5 34's we shoot. the 13/5 spring is really close to out of battery test, so I figured, (like ive done before in gen4) 4 pound spring with jager striker 13 or 11 recoil but not available for the gen 5 yet oh well i'll set it so it functions till parts are available
Hmm, have you tried the 4.5 lb Wolff striker spring? I’d be curious if that hit hard enough to solve your problem.
But, before I did that, I’d try a 15 lb recoil spring to see if the problem centers around the slide not getting into battery.
I have a Carver extended guide rod & bushing but I don’t recall if I have an 11, 13, or 15 lb recoil spring.
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On 8/29/2021 at 1:47 PM, euxx said:
To be fair, the Commander one doesn't have its own "free" app, though it is available, it's just you'd have to wait 8..10 weeks with the current shortage of the electronic components. The sooner you order the sooner you get it.
Also Commander been on the market for over two years now and with the other timers you betting on the manufacturer's reputation.Apparently I will need to do more research and (hopefully) pay more attention when I get to use the AMG at an upcoming match.
I do agree that the fact that a timer has a feature doesn’t mean much if it’s not easy to use. Shifting through the strings on the CED timers is very easy because of the extra buttons. The AMG seems like it is easy, but you only get 3 strings. Having 50 on the ProTimer won’t be much use if they are not easy to get to.
Now I wish I’d played around with the AMG more when I was using it a couple months ago in a match.
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55 minutes ago, Skeeter44 said:
So is it consensus that the PACT Club timer 3 is probably one of the best ones available atm??? Trying to decide between that and the CED 7000
I believe the Pact has a lifetime warranty, but I think that may be the only way it beats any of the others. I haven’t used ours in many years, it seems we always grab one of the others instead, but I don’t remember why we never use it anymore.
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1 hour ago, louu said:
I know, I was just joking. I swear if somone put a sticker that said "tripple alpha bullzeye" on an eighteen inch black dildo and told you guys it would help you shoot better if you attached it to your belt everyone would have one at the next match.
I just put 2 extra large mag pouches on the back of my belt to hold two of those things. If one makes you shoot better, then 2 must make you betterer. -
These are great, thanks.
Quick comment on the SRO card.
regarding the 1 MOA click, the dot size shouldn’t matter as to how much it moves with 1 or more clicks. The center of the dot should move the same in all cases I would think. Am I missing something?thanks.
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12 hours ago, Johnnymazz said:
Heres a pic of the original plate that came with my machine. I only lube the top where the nut contacts . Notice how some of the grease still gets down into the detent ball. Thats 3,000 rounds since it was serviced.
Quick question, how much powder gets sprinkled on your shell plate after a few hundred rounds?
My 1100 sprinkles TiteGroup to the point that after about 5-700 rounds the press needs cleaning. It could be because the powder mixes with the grease. But it still seems excessive.
Are you saying that pic is after loading 30,000 rounds since the last cleaning???
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Are you getting light strikes now with the Gen 5?
I’m using CCI primers with junk range brass and a 4 lb striker spring and I’m getting 100% ignition in a very dirty Gen5 model 34 through about 5,000 rounds now with no cleanings.
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How do these magnets work with Glock magazines?
with both the magnet cover and plastic covering on the magazine does it still hole firmly? -
Trijicon SRO
Holosun 510C
very good idea.
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And of course, don’t forget about the falling steel plate matches in RI at the Wallum Lake R&G Club. Fall Walls is Sep 25 & 26. If you’ve never done that you definitely want to give it a try.
Registration is on PractiScore.
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59 minutes ago, BillWV said:
Just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Bill. I started shooting IDPA this year. It's a ton of fun!! I shoot a Canik SFX in CO as a Distinguished Senior.
Welcome Bill,Where in MA are you shooting IDPA? Or are you having to travel to CT & RI?
-Cuz
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12 minutes ago, euxx said:
There is a belt clip for Commander with a hinge, which addresses that issue
https://shooterstoolbox.com/product/timer-clip-for-amg-lab-commander-timer/
yeah, that might work. Personally, I think they will both have an app to record data on your phone, I’ll need to see what they do.
Right now, I have a hard time seeing why I would pick the AMG over the ProTimer. Although, neither one seem to be available at the moment.
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8 hours ago, euxx said:
What are you hoping to find in the manual?
Umm, why everything about how it works and what it does, and how easy it is to configure and use it the way I will want to in practice. Downloading and reviewing the manual for products I'm considering is just something I always tend to do. I learn a lot about a product that I can't get my hands on by reading the manual.
I'm looking for a timer to use during practice (because, for some reason, 4 currently isn't enough). I already have several timers that I use now:
PACT Club Timer,
PocketPro II
CED 8000
CED 7000
But, out of the above list, we really only still use the PocketPro and CED7000, which coincidentally are the same shape/formats as the 2 new timers I'm considering.
It seems by the way most folks are talking, the AMG Commander is the new leader, but the fact that it only remembers 3 shot strings is very disappointing, and quite frankly annoys me a bit. Giving it the ability to remember many more shot strings would probably not have added to the cost at all, as I'm sure the timer already has the memory in it.
So, currently, for me anyway, the ProTimer BT may be the clear winner. I will need to learn more about how it interfaces with the PTLink App, and how the app works. Like I said, I don't currently plan to use it for matches, it is just for personal use with friends and family when we practice or are just having fun at the range. We tend to use the CED 7000 most right now because of the shot strings. If my kids and I are taking turns shooting a plate rack or some other combination, we can each shoot it twice, and then review the shot strings to see how we did, and compare reload times, etc. etc.
And, I checked just before responding here and it looks like Competition Electronics has updated their website since the last time I checked. They now have info on the ProTimer, including the manual!
http://www.competitionelectronics.com/product/protimer-bt/
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2 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Capitalism - Cannot fault them because it is what pays the bills and allows companies to grow…..
As for Precision Delta that I buy from now - they are just over two hours from my home and they allowed me to drive over two weeks ago and pick up 11,000 bullets……Great down to earth folks. Yep - that is me at PD…..and got me a cool “Group Therapy” shirt while I was there also…..
Way to go, very nice.
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I saw someone with one at the range and it seemed to work pretty well. I was wondering if anyone here was using one and if so, how it works.
I’m thinking for $30 it may be worth a shot. Especially since I started using the MTM 100 round boxes to hold my ammo, and I normally only load 10 rounds at a time.
https://www.etsgroup.us/Rifle-and-Pistol-Speedloaders-a/261.htm
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13 minutes ago, George16 said:
You’re welcome Mark. Sorry I forgot to say that I bought it from Lowe’s.
wait, doesn’t TiteGroup powder perform the same graphite like lubricant if we don’t use any grease to gum everything up?? -
1 hour ago, DirtBag said:
Awesome, thanks. Order placed.
Titegroup and coated bullets?
in General Reloading
Posted
I wouldn’t mind bringing that myth back to life if it gets a bunch of you to switch to some other powder. While we’re on the subject, did you guys here that CCI small pistol primers will make your gun and the gun next to yours explode if you use them. I swear, it’s true, so for your own safety, please stop buying TG powder or CCI small pistol primers.