Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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7 hours ago, ima45dv8 said:
I hate that it happened to you. It sucks, but the responsibility is on the competitor.
I'd like to once again propose a shift in our collective mindset on DQ's.
I quit saying "I had to DQ this person". I didn't DQ them. In fact, I've only ever DQ'd one shooter: Me. Everybody else, I was just there to yell Stop and process the paperwork.
As an RO I've had to explain the unfortunate circumstances to a lot of people, and I got into the habit of saying, "I'm sorry to tell you, but you just DQ'd yourself, and here's how you did it." It's a subtle change, but clearly and squarely places the responsibility on the person holding the blaster. . .where it belongs. And hopefully it helped a few see it was THEIR fault.
I truly hate to hear someone say "I got DQ'd...", or "... so-and-so DQ'd me".
Own it.
I totally agree with what your saying, but my biggest problem is how it affects me when I have to DQ someone. It totally wrecks my mindset and I can never seem to regain my own composure for the rest of the match. I wish I could just DQ them and move on, but I can’t.
it’s definitely something I need to work on. -
For me I would say it’s relaxation and stress relief therapy. At least the practice and random range sessions.
Matches are a hot mess of nerves and anxiety that requires more stress relief therapy to get over. It’s a vicious cycle. -
4 hours ago, K-Tex said:
Lone Wolf sell gen3 to 4 guide rod adapters
Thanks, I ended up going with a Carver rod and adapter. I’ve had good luck with his stuff.
I also sent the slide out to get milled for MOS plates so I could put an optic on it. That didn’t go as well as I’d hoped.
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Yes, thanks, the last 3 replies confirm what I’ve always believed. Basically, the U die is best only used with jacketed bullets.
And, sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought it had some pertinence to the topic.
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The Lee factory crimp die is only not recommended for coated bullets, right? I’ve used it for years with copper plated, and now jacketed bullets with great results. I have read in multiple places that you shouldn’t use it with coated bullets.
Also, regarding crimp, is it true that over crimping is only an issue if it breaks through the coating or plating which could cause the bullet to separate? Are there any known drawbacks to a slightly tighter crimp with jacketed bullets like Precision Delta or Montana Gold? I thought they both had pretty hard jackets.
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So once you get the press all taken apart and you have the base of the press left to clean, what do you use to clean the funk out?
I’ve been spraying it with M-Pro 7 Gun cleaner, but I figure there must be something that may work better.
Anyway, just wondering what you all are using.
Thanks,
Cuz
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11 hours ago, dansedgli said:
You made sure it didnt work before you messed with it right? right?
That’s pretty much what I was thinking. When you get a new custom gun, you dry fire it a bunch to see if it appears to function, then run a bore snake through it to make sure there’s no excess anything in the barrel then head to the range to make sure it’s working ok. I would do this BEFORE I took anything apart and started mucking with it. Especially since you said you had no 2011 experience.
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54 minutes ago, chilehed said:
Does anyone know if FW Arms is still in business? I ordered a die last week, and other than a confirmation email it's been crickets. No response to my emails, the phone goes straight to voice mail and the mailbox is full.
I ordered and received their popper decapper and swage hold down dies last month.
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Whoa, way to go Llando88. You got a topic pinned. I been around here almost 20 years and never achieved that. Nice job, and thanks, the cards are great.
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14 minutes ago, blueeyedme said:
It's been ridiculous. I hear stories like the above of the occasional case that gets found but I've spent way too much time at all hours and have not seen any stock in well over a year at this point. Not going to fight it, we've just stopped shooting. Plenty of primers and powder because I always bought that in bulk but this is the first time I've seen a bullet shortage.
Psst, so… er… how much you want for your small pistol primers??? -
You guys are both right. I actually made the discovery myself a few minutes ago. I noticed it was missing. I have a Dillon sizing/decapping die in station 7 of my processing tool head and that's where it came from. When I pulled the die and took it apart to inspect, I also noticed that the end cap that holds the decapping pin secure had stripped the center part it attaches to (see attached pic). I just submitted a warranty replacement request to Dillon.
Thank you all for the quick responses, I was searching everywhere on my press, and in the manual for about 30 minutes before posting here. Very much appreciated.
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Ok, so I was processing brass, at a rapid, but manual rate, and a case spit out of the case feeder sideways along with the part in the picture. No, not the dime, the other part. I can’t find it in the manual, can anyone help identify where it could have come from???
thanks.
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47 minutes ago, davsco said:
pro's and con's vs springer plate? thanks!
I’m not a fan of the C&H plate, the screws are too thin and weak. I’ve never heard of the springer, but I just checked it out, and it’s an RMR plate that won’t work with Holosun optics?? I would wonder what else it won’t work with. I’m a Glock guy, and I have 2 with the Glock MOS plates, and 2 with C&H plates. I prefer the stock Glock MOS plate. But, I also have a Brownells slide that was milled specifically for RMR and that’s the best of them all. The multi-optic plate system is good marketing for the gun Mfg but it’s no where near as good as having a slide milled for the optic you want. I doubt I’ll ever buy another plate system again. From now one I’ll buy the non mos version and get the slide milled.
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Has anyone had to wait more than 2 weeks by simply going to all 6 or so retailers listed on the Trijicon website and signing up to be notified when the one you want is back in stock? I will admit you have to act fast when notified, but they do appear to be getting small batches on a regular basis.
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I read the very short manual, and have some questions regarding the Armanov Round Counter.
1) How is the rounds/hour “pace” calculated, and how often is it updated during a session? I want to use it to help me maintain a consistent pace when I’m loading. Does it calculate based on the time between two consecutive rounds? Or is it recalculated every 10-15 seconds? Or over the last 10-15 rounds loaded? What happens to the currently displayed pace if I stop loading for a minute? Does it drop down to zero? Or remain where it is until I resume loading?
2) In the different counters, what is the difference between “processing” and “depriming”?
Thanks, I also sent an email to the Armanov website, but figured I’d try here too. -
25 minutes ago, eboadway said:
The display of rounds per hour is cool too. Fairly worthless, but cool!
Lol, it’s too funny how differently people think. The rounds/hour display would be the most valuable thing to me when I’m loading ammo. I’ve recently resolved a powder spillage problem by learning that I was cranking the handle way too fast. Using the rounds per hour counter would be great to force me to stick to a pace that keeps powder from spilling all over the shell plate.
Currently, every so often I have to set a 15 or 30 second timer on my phone and count handle cranks during that time to check my pace. I have a tendency to keep ramping up the speed. The displayed loading rate would help keep me at the desired pace.
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1 hour ago, UpYoursPal said:
Aren't they just the best? In the last five months I've had exactly one malfunction with my open gun - a Phoenix Trinity Honcho - which was caused by a light primer strike. I've been cleaning my magazines fairly often, the gun gets cleaned and lubed before every match, and I case gauge all of my ammo to ensure that it'll chamber. I've seen more malfunctions from GLOCKS this year than from my gun, and it's really amazing to finally be able to trust my gear 100%
Sure, it takes more effort to keep it running than it would, say, a Sig or a CZ. However, I like this gun more than I like any of my other guns so it's really nice to have it running perfectly.
/sarc mode on/Ok, two things:
First, you can’t really blame the light strike on your open gun. Generally speaking, it was more likely an ammo issue where the primer wasn’t fully seated. How dare you blame your new open gun for something that was clearly not it’s fault. Who loaded that ammo?
Second, if you really trusted your gun 100% you wouldn’t have to clean it before every match.
Personally, I trust my Glock 100% and only clean it every other year or so.
But, for many people, cleaning their gun is something they really enjoy doing, and it relaxes them and brings them inner peace. I am definitely NOT one of those people.
I agree, there’s nothing like having confidence in your gear going into a match. My problem isn’t my gear, it’s me I lack confidence in.
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After all, isn’t the Mark7 auto drive the ultimate case counter for the RL1100?
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7 hours ago, HesedTech said:
So why is there a need for a round counter on a Dillon press?
Personally I feed a tube of primers in and load all in the tube, normally 100 at a time. The method works great on both automated and manual presses.
But the counter does look good.
You are right. When I’m loading ammo, I use the empty primer tubes as a count, since I pretty much always finish a tube once I start it.
I was actually more interested in counting the cases when I process brass, more to keep track of what I had, and how many rounds have gone through the machine, for tracking the big maintenance items.
And most importantly, it’s a cool gizmo that I hope will distract me long enough to keep me from buying an auto drive now that they are starting to become available. This “gadget” is a whole lot cheaper.
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7 hours ago, cbrussell said:
I might try “polishing” the chute with Pledge or something. Once in a while a cartridge may not slide all the way down, however, not a consistent problem. I will tell you the control unit has a bunch of functions which I am too lazy to figure out. Should probably take some time to read up on it a bit more.
I don’t think there is much to “read up on”. I downloaded the manual to get an idea how it worked, but it didn’t have a whole lot of info.
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1 hour ago, cbrussell said:
On my RL1050 the chute attached with the ejector screw.
The counter mounted to the case feeder support bar. All plug and play.
Thanks, those pics were very helpful.
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1 hour ago, eboadway said:
I echo cbrussell's post. I have the Armanov on my 1100. Works great, nice installation location, no complaints!
Ed
How does it attach to the base of the 1100 press? I can’t really see it in the pics.
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11 minutes ago, Sinister4 said:
its insanely hard to machine, i'd guess 500.00 or more easy to make one,
think tig welding electrodes, you use diamond wheels to grind them, they are pure tungsten and the putty and hunks/shot works great
is it much harder to machine than a guide rod? -
Thanks, I didn't realize it was that much different than brass.
So, why isn't anyone making a Tungsten plug? Probably too expensive.
Hate that I had to DQ this shooter
in USPSA/IPSC Shooting
Posted
Yeah, I have to start looking at it that way. It’s definitely true.