Cuz
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Posts posted by Cuz
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56 minutes ago, highxj said:
Just curious, are you guys removing the ratchet itself? When I set mine up, I removed the locking tab rather than the ratchet, because I didn't have anything handy to properly space out the cam bolt back to where it should be. But the ratchet itself is a PITA when manipulating the toolhead etc. I need to find some proper washers or machine a spacer for the cam bolt...
Why would you have to space out the cam bolt? It looks long enough to work just fine without the ratchet.
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I definitely hear you guys, but I’m coming from 20+ years on a rl550 and never had auto-indexing. It kinda scares me a little, but I may have to remove it as I’m wasting too much time just getting it to work.
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Are you guys using the ratchet on any of your toolheads?
I don’t use it on my processing toolhead, but I’m not quite confident enough to remove it from my loading toolhead. But it’s giving me fits. I can’t seem to get the release lever mechanism to function correctly. Either it won’t get locked back at the end of the down stroke, or it doesn’t always release at the top of the up stroke. Other times it doesn’t engage the ratchet. One of the Dillon tech support guys commented that most people take it off and don’t use it, which has me wondering what you all are doing?
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13 hours ago, outerlimits said:
if u have been in the bush, you would know that is a ridiculous question.
Seriously? I was unaware of the moratorium on ridiculous questions. Whatever the limit is, I know I'm way over it with some of the questions I ask.
But, back on topic, I don't have an open gun, so the closest I could come would be my Carry Optics Glock 34. And, I take it "into battle" every time I bring it to a match. I'm battling with all the other shooters to see who comes out on top (I never do). I didn't know there was a specific "battle" the op was referring to.
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Lol, I've been having the exact same problem, at about the same frequency (1 out of 3-400). I just figured it was something wrong with that piece of brass and never gave it a second thought. I'm running the press manually, so when just processing brass, that's where I focus and make sure the brass got loaded correctly before stroking the press. When I'm loading ammo, I check that a bullet got properly dropped, then check that a case got loaded before stroking the press.
If someone does have a cure for this, I too want to hear it. It never even occurred to me that it may be something with the press because of the frequency that it happened, and also it only seems to happen if I'm trying to crank the handle at a pretty high rate.
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Just now, HOGRIDER said:
Cuz:
As you can see in the pics, I only needed a fuzz off to eliminate the minor sticking coming from the expander. Have a great friend that's a master machinist.
Well, those kinds of friends certainly come in handy!!!
thanks.
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It depends on if your currently shooting 9mm minor or some other caliber. If 9mm, then you need to decide if it’s worth retooling for another caliber. New gun, possibly some gear, will you need to buy new reloading components that you don’t currently have??
mid your shooting 40 or 45, it’s pretty easy to bump up your ammo and give it a try without changing anything else.
I think there “could” be more to it than just switching if you are currently shooting 9mm. -
I ordered a funnel from photo express. If it works, that will be great. If not, it will go into a box with way too many other “accessories” I’ve ordered over the years that didn’t quite work out.
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2 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:
For me, there were 3 stations on the RL1100 that were all contributing to "sticking". The Station 3 Dillon expander, the original Station 5 MBF powder funnel, and the Station 8 Redding Taper Crimp. After addressing the causes in each station, I am 99% sticking free!
Hogrider,how did you address sticking at station 3, with the Dillon expander?
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Thanks,
That's the kind of info I was looking for. I've loaded about 7,000 rounds before it started sticking, so it may just need a good cleaning. I'm doing it by hand, never had a dremel, and probably saved a lot of money by not ruining expensive gun parts...
So I'll check for 1000-1200 grit, or some 00, 000, or 000 steel wool to start with. Either way, I need a trip to Lowes or Home Depot to get what I need. That's scheduled for later this afternoon, so I'll be sure to check back here before I buy anything, or more likely, I'll end up just buying EVERYTHING so I'll be sure to have what I need.
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I suppose if we polish the expanding die it will lessen the sticking. Anyone know the best way to polish it without screwing it up???
Someone previously told me to use 600 grit sandpaper to clean it off because brass particles get stuck on it and cause the sticking. I was told to use the sandpaper to clean it, then rub a very, very small amount of Dillons case lube on it.
I have not yet tried to do this, but may pick up some sandpaper at Lowe’s later today.
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4 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Well I decided earlier this week to give this a 500 round try - and - I really like the results……I started with wet tumbled (with SS pins), primer still in the case, mixed range brass that has been sorted to remove all step, military/crimped, and "troublesome to reload for various reasons" brass. Todd Tuckwood of A+ Brass (in the Classified Ad - approved vendors section of this forum) provides this service and has vision system. Todd has sorted and re-cleaned over 80,000 pieces of 9mm brass for me.
For me - I am sure everyone may have a different or better method - this is how I set mine up…..Also - I did this with one of my 650’s not my RL1100 since I have extra tool heads and I have my RL1100 set up to run my PPC 9mm round and do not intend to change it out until I get 5000 rds. completed….
650 Toolhead One
1 - FW Arms Primer Popper
2- Empty
3 - Empty
4 - Lee Re-Sizing Die
5 - Empty
650 Toolhead Two
1 - Redding Premium Expander Die (Man I LOVE this die)
2 - Powder Drop - No case expansion required)
3 - Powder Check
4 - Seat
5 - Crimp
I realize that I am pulling the handle twice as often for the same number of rounds but thought I would give it a try as I am old and enjoy my time in my reloading room.
As for the Redding Expander Die - a forum member identified that they use this type expander die rather than the powder die for expanding and so far I like the results. I had this Redding die in my inventory and decided to give it a try. It provides a very consistent bell and of course no sticking……
Two pass loading for the 1100 will follow at a later time…Right now just enjoying the simplicity of giving this a try without having to tear into/down the 1100 to do so…..
Sigarms,
I keep going back and forth about using the undersize die on my processing run.
My current processing toolhead has:
1 - casefeed
2 - FW Arms popper decapper
3 - FW Arms Swage hold down.
4 - Empty
5 - Empty
6 - Lee full length sizing/decapping die
7 - Dillon carbide sizing/decapping die
Then, I processed 3000 with the Lee undersized die in station 8, and then another 3000 with station 8 empty.
I've only loaded about 20 of each, and what I'm finding is that the cases that were undersized are sticking big time on the Mr. Bullet Feeder expander that is in my powder measure. I need to research how to get those cases to release easier. I used Hornady one shot to lube the cases for processing, but did not lube when loading.
Cuz
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In all honesty, it's definitely easier to wait for Dillon's automation announcement since there are no other options currently available. If the Mark 7 Auto drive units were readily available it might be a bit harder to hold off on buying one...
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Lol, yeah, I have a couple of those, but only needed them for the Glock big sticks for PCC.
But, now that I've been playing with the ETS loader, I am amazed at how well it works. It works best if you are using the MTM or Dillon 100 round ammo boxes to store ammo. This thing scoops up 10 rounds at a time and zips them into the mag. It's much faster than the maglula.
Of course, I only load Glock mags, so I can't say how well it works with other magazines. I just ordered a 2nd one to have as a spare.
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22 hours ago, Dr. Phil said:
The Allchin is the way to go.
Sits the lowest, very sturdy. I have been changing my revos over from the old style "scope mount" rails to the Allchins.
PS
That advice was originally from a former S&W revo pro.
I agree, but have no experience with any others. Shooters Connection had one in stock so I ordered it.
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It’s good to see that you can order/pre-order more than 1000 at a time.
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That’s funny. Not sure why anyone would give you that info. Although, I do remember years ago folks getting all warped about Getting rid of the Glock bulge in their cases. At the time I was shooting a ton of Glock bulged brass in my SVI limited gun, so I got an undersized die and never had any problems. Not sure I really even needed it, but that’s what “everyone” said to do at the time.
As others have said, clean, load, shoot, repeat.
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51 minutes ago, Geov said:
After doing lots of research, I have decided not to mount the 510c on my Smith 629 Classic 44 mag revolver.
I have landed on the 507c and will report out once I get it installed and fire a few rounds through it.
The 510c is not for hand gun and would introduce lots of problems if I had decided to stay with it.
Geov,
whose mount are you planning to use to attach the optic to your Revo? That combo would make a nice bowling pin gun.
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12 hours ago, mrpredictable said:
3.0 gr titegroup behind SNS or blue bullets. Haven’t had an issue and don’t clean my barrel much.
Hi, what bullet weight are you using, and what velocities are you getting over the chrono?
thanks.
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On 8/30/2021 at 10:28 AM, ysrracer said:
Maybe my order will come in by the time primers are back to $35 per 1000?
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Lol, I’m just hoping for the delivered price to come down to $50 / 1000. That’s when I’ll start to restock.
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1 hour ago, AverageJoeShooting said:
Last year i did 70 matches in 10 months so about 7 per month
This year I decided I didn't want to shoot that much so I've been doing 2 matches a month since jan
Holy crap, what was your driving radius to find that many matches in a months? I think I’d have to expand my drive time window up past 2 hours to reach that many.
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2 hours ago, Garrett said:
Mine is supposed to be delivered tomorrow. But if I’m looking at it right, you push the lever inward, toward the receiver. It would pivot, pulling the mag release.
Gotcha, for some reason I hadn’t considered it having a pivot point.
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How does it work?
do you push it in, down, or up??
Also a lefty here.
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I’m just doing it to have fun.
says me and just about everyone else that isn’t a GM…
Issues with RL1100
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
If you guys are not using the ratchet, why not just cut off the ratchet part and use the top portion as the spacer?
And, this is probably a better thread to discuss some of the problems/issues I’m having with the RL1100 than the 2 pass thread, now that we’ve verified that nobody runs dirty brass they the first pass.