dzhitshard

In reference to MG bullets being inconsistent I can't comment other than saying I am having between a 1-3% reject rate per 1K over the last 4K loads (bought 4 full cases fo the 180gr jhp over the last couple months) due to the bullet ogive not being consistant. The rejects are too large & are not fully seating in the case gage: EGW, Dillon, or Lyman. When I pop the rounds out of the gage there is a burnish ring around 1/5 of the bullet's diamiter where is makes contact with the gage. Of the all the rounds that pass the case gage I can't say I've seen any fliers that weren't due to the nut behind the trigger.

search for the dillon caliber conversion chart. There are some really good automated charts that break down exactly what you need. Unfortunately they are all blocked from me from work so I cant post a link for you. From recolection you need the Green case feed guide for 40 vs the red that is for the longer 10mm FWIW graf's had less than 5 40cal 1050s last Friday.

It's the shell plate that came in the factory conversion kit box for 9mm. #5 IIRC.

I bought the system factory set up for .40 & haven't had much trouble other than the primer seating ram coming out of adjustment after a bad series of crimped cases fouling up the press. I reset the depth to flush so the slide wouldn't bind & all had been fine on mixed case reloading in .40 I ended up getting ahead on .40 loading & got several thousand rounds through with acceptable primer seating. I bought a new tool head & set it up for 9 & things have been frustrating to say the least. With the new tool head as set From the factory with the primer ram set flush in the bushing so the primer slide won't bind, I was getting half seated primers from the start. After half a dozen cases I traced that issue primarily to the (bear with me, I don't have the document & can't get it from work because of the smart filters) tool head stud that activates the priming arm not being adjusted (IE screwed in enough) to fully activate the primer arm & send the ram up to full height. I didn't find it anywhere in the manual but I've adjusted that stud so that the ram goes almost 1/4 the way up into the primer pocket on cut away cases but I'm still getting primer seating depth all over the place. Last night I punched out 150 test load 9's & had about 25% that had primers that were properly seated bellow flush, about 30% that were slightly proud & the rest were significantly high. I ran several of the high ones back through the priming station on the 1050 & a few seated the rest of the way but the majority showed only slightly more seating after their second trip through the station on the 1050. None exhibited damage of any flattening after the second trip through. The remaining high primers went to the Hornady where they seated fully with very little effort. All ended up being seated bellow flush & none exhibited any flattening or crushing. Having to run all the rounds through another press to ensure that the primer seating is proper is a little more than frustrating. I'm at a loss & can't spend an hour holding for someone to pick up the customer service line. My 30+ minute attempt netted me nothing but aggitation. As it sets: The bench is completely solid. I have no trouble seating .40 or running my other machines The shell plate is tightened down to the point of dragging & then barely backed off. Mixed brass head stamps but none crimped. None of it varries the 1/16th"+ that I'm seeing in in seating depth varriance. The swager is not being used. It has not worked properly since I recieved the new machine & I have put off calling in to get it replaced because again: ansering the phone @ Dillon is a task they haven't been able to master the past few months. Yes I'm probably a little bitter about not being able to reach the master race press people. I've searched far & wide on this site using all the peramiters I can think of but I haven't found anything that is having a duplicate issue. Any help would be appreciated.

How could it be RO'd safely & effectively "IF" a shooter knew what he was doing & was working under NOD's & IR & the RO was wandering around in the dark trying to follow him?

It sounds like your grip is shifting on you because you have a weak grip or undesirable hand placement. The hard case answer is to "fix" your grip and be ok like the multitude of other guys who run the same equipment. I've been guilty of running away from technique flaws myself though, this one specifically, so please don't read this as I'm throwing stones at you. I put some time in on grip strength training & Bill drills specifically to work out my problems.

That isn't an Edge at all. It's a chopped down Tactical. I was trying to say that MY Edge is going to get the color combo.

Sweet Baby Jesus! I love this combo & am going to move my Edge to it. I am very sad about the loss of the original configuration though. I've seen 14 or so of these that got chopped up. What was the rack #?

What kind of use peramiters are you using to base your Burris opinion on? Example: weapon round count loads out of the bag to the bench/ field courses/ training classes etc I've got one that I can't keep a zero on an AK74 with. I've seen a couple factory guys mount some on shottys but a could never get them to pin down an opinion on performance & longevity. To the OP I don't know of any agency issuing them. I know several officers at various agencies around that are using them for duty: a couple at large metro agencies. RMR's are the overwhelming choice among the men I trust most who run dots for duty. One man I trust likes the Delta point better for carry CONUS. I know & trust others who are still active & have T1 equiped Austrian Perfection for duty rigs OCONUS. Last year I put a couple thousand minor loads and 100 147gr GDHP through my adjustable RMR equiped Gen4 G17 with no equipment complaints. I quit carrying it because I was measureable slower to the first shot & I didn't have time to dedicate to getting the presentations down. Being slower & sometimes really having to search for the dot made me shelve them until I can truely dedicate the time. I'll rexplore the option after this summer.

? You're having troubles figuring out why you're getting slower velocities when you're not increasing charge but increasing the diameter of the bullet's entire riding surface by .001? Sounds like you already answered your own question to me but you aren't seeing the forest through the trees. It's not just a tiny line around the "width" (a little bigdawgbeav video joke where he interchanges that with diamiter for 18 minutes) that gains that .001, it's the entire riding surface which can be a pretty significant amount on various .40 bullets. I suck at formulas so I can't give you one to figure out how much more material resistance you're actually adding but I ASSuME it's quite a bit more than you're imagining. FWIW in regard of primer's effect on results: when I switched from WSPP to FSPP with the same powder, bullet, & gun I lost enough velocity that I had to increase the charge by .2 grains to keep a 170pf. That was brand change not lot change though.

Got 2 Jager LW stricker kits in the mail on friday. put one in the G35 on Sun w/the included spring & something is a miss. NIGHTMARE rough pull & reset. Drop stock striker w/zev spring (as it was assembled when I started fiddling) & back to previous acceptable pull & reset conditions. It was cleaned after dissasemble & prior to putting it together with the Jager. The striker channel was clean with no debris but I was pressed for time & couldn't spend any more on diagnosing the issue. Anyone have any off the top ideas? I don't have a lot of time to fiddle with it as there's a classifier match this weekend & sectionals follow shortly.

29APR2013 super swager 600 ordered BE.com 07JUN2013 super swager 600 delivered. Again, after I found one in stock @ another retailer a month ago. More swap meet goodness & no wait time for someone else though.

I have 10 that I load at a time until I burn a mod to use my Honady pick up tubes as well. I think it's a PERFECT use of the Vibraprime. I'll offer $25 shipped for anyone who's so disappointed that they can't figure out how to make theirs work that that they want to get rid of it.

"considerably less than what they are goin for on ebay" Search Ebay for 1050 bearing kit

Because they were typical Midway priced, ie overpriced, at introduction?

What problems have you had with small primers? I was just about to buy one and held off when I read your comment. Drill a 5/64" or similar hole in the lid, above the drop hole & clean off the inside burrs. When you get a hung up primer assist it into the hole with a fine pointed tool like eyeglass screwdriver, dental pick point etc. I get one hung up every couple sleeves on average. There were way more before I figured out I was shaking the machine too much trying to "help" primers into the chute that feeds the drop hole. If you're getting FLIPPED primers it's almost definitely operator error from shaking the machine and or not ensuring the lid is firmly bottomed out.

because the 1050 doesn't need it. Look how high the shell plate of the 1050 sits mounted straight to the bench vs how high the 650 does.

29APR2013 order of 650 in 40S&W delivered 04JUN2013 Super swager unknown deliver date

It's not good enough for them. It's not good enough for anyone. They are trash

LOL, nice, Great that I got logic slapped before I started my destructive testing. Thanks for the heads up on the obvious that I had missed. . . again. lol

I don't think I'd like the primer slide positioner you built. The only real issue I've had with the slide not going into position is when I've been forcing primers into crimped pockets & brass shavings have collected in the slide relief not allowing the slide assembly to come fully forward. I'd think I'd simply break more slide assemblies if I had that positioner installed.

I've got a number of the Hornady tubes & have looked at how to reclaim them for use. I'm thinking of cutting off the conical plastic tip leaving the part that's recessed in the tube & chamfering the hole. I started to drill a cotter pin hole in the top of the tube as is done on the bottom & then stopped because it could be confusing when I'm trying to load rapidly. I need to figure out another way to secure the primers after I cut off the tip

What the better sign is, is that they've been in stock for at least a week & a half. I've put half a dozen in my cart twice but fail to commit.

I wanted to thank everyone for taking the time to respond. With it being so close to sectionals etc & me already having several thousand MG JHPs that perform well out of the stock tube, I'm just going to roll with that for the next couple months. After things settle down I'll revisist the KKM issue with a fervor.

Pueblo West Sportsman Club use to put on some good matches. That's not very far if you're already on the south side of town.