Blujay291

You know I'd give my right pinky toe to be able to afford an open gun, I need to stop visiting this thread it always ends in depression, ahh one day maybe. P.s taking old open gun donations!!! Lol

It's the ejector take 200 rounds to the range, some files and tune the ejector nose I've had to do it on two guns, with some practice/ trial and error you can get the brass to go exactly where you want it. And as stated above remove your mount and make sure it's not deflecting up off the ejection port, also had that happen. Some black sharpie inside the ejection port will indicate brass contact, gl!!

Look guys my finances force me to be a DIY guy, I also love the learning experience that comes with it, I just want help to get this right so my open gun can serve me for a while.if I could send it off to millennium or akai with a blank check I would but I can't so this slide is getting fit by me, so any advice or tips to get it correct?

It can be done I've done it on a open slide before by hand, the angle might not have been an exact 1 degree but the end of the slide did not contact the comp st any point in its travel with about a .005 clearance and the gun is still running today accurate and reliable. I'm confident in my abilities because I've educated myself on the dynamics of the slide and comp relation along with the rest of the 1911/2011 relation I just wanted to know what the best way to remove the excess metal from the 5 slide which I chose because my shorty is not 4.15 inch it's Longer and I didn't buy a commander slide for this reason of possibly being too short, can always remove material, can't add any!!!

I wish I could I plan on cutting it longer than necessary and ill be doing all the final fitting snd 1 degree angle by hand with my trusty files I just need to get that half inch or so off it doesn't have to be a perfect cut as I said it will be hand fit with files afterwards

Hi guys I unfortunately bought another open gun with a cracked slide, it's really starting to take all the fun out of this sport for me. Anyway I spent all my available funds on the gun, thinking it was ready to shoot, so the seller covered a new slide and I don't have the money to have it fit so I'm going to do it myself. I've fit a few slides before on different guns I don't own anymore but my friends tell me they are still running great. The gun is a shorty open gun and the slide I have is a classic sti bald 5in slide. What's is the best method to cut the slide down for someone that does not have acces to a mill or other high end equipment. I understand I do not want to get the slide to hot during the cut, so any thoughts would be great!

I only use my barrel for a guage

Hi guys I'm having some issues with 180 grain lead bullets. I'm using a egw u die and I'm belling the case a little more than I would with jacketed. The loading process goes ooth, but no matter what I do, add more crimp, lower Oal not 1 will pass a plunk test, and if I push them in them look at the case I can see where it is catching. It's catching about 1/8 th of an in back from the mouth of the case. The bullets are sized to .401, and there's nothing I can do to get them to plunk. Where th round catches the measurement is .422. My case mouths after crimp are .421, and after I measure my brass walls at .10 x 2 + bullet diameter of .401 I get .421 I'm starting to think out of spec chamber, it's an sti 5 inch any thoughts?

I was using 8.1 in a trubore barrel with 3 poppels for a 168 very nice shooting! I no longer shoot open but when I do again I will look for longshot

Thanks guys I've looked into fords and metaloy and it looks like they both offer a great finish, metaloy offers a rush 72 hour turnaround Wich I do like since I only own this one gun.

Well I had it checked out and there's no issue holds under 2in at 25yds!

What's a bill drill?

What is a bill drill again sorry?

Didnt know there was different racks

I need a lot more practice