A38337

That Loki barrel looks good.

THIS $276 barrel $110 fluting or conturing $50 gas block $10 gas tube The result is Noveske/JP price range for the barrel, block, and gas tube (both offer lighter and heavier profiles).

Per SAMMI, firing 5.56 ammo in .223 chamber is an unsafe practice. In addition ao the dimensional differences between the two cartridges, 5.56 has higher pressure than .223. There have been many instances of barrels being marked as 5.56 Nato when in fact they are not. It would be worth one's time to use chamber gauges to make sure of what you have. I use 5.56 ammo occasionally, so I have 5.56 chambers in all my carbines. I own 5.56 Nato GO, NO GO, and FIELD gauges and for guys in the Marysville/Everett WA areas, if you want to use my gauges to check your chamber, PM me. Ned Christiansen (michiguns.com) offers a chamber reamer for the purpose of modifying .223 Rem chambers to 5.56 Nato dimensions. (no affilition with him)

dchang0 - I have looked at WOA. They are $275 from ADCO or $265 to $275 from WOA. To get one turned down or fluted to get the weight down to where I'd want it is about another $110 to $120. Add the gas block and tube to that cost. At this point, you're not far off Noveske prices. For me, I have decided on 32 oz Noveske 18" lighweight barrel so that's what I'm saving up for. The Noveske's that I've shot have performed. Regardless, the WOA, W-N, and other options are available for those who choose them. The indian is more important than the arrow and all that.

Double? Not really. A Noveske stainless 16 or 18 inch barrel, INCLUDING the pinned gas block and tube is $465. A stripped JP barrel is $400. Add the cost of a gas block and tube to that and now you have an apples to apples comparison. I'm not sure what a Krieger is, but it isn't cheap.

According to Noveske, and/or Rainier Arms, and/or Molon, here are what Noveske barrels weigh: Noveske 14.5" skinny (CHF) barrel 20 oz Noveske 16.1" lightweight (NST) stainless barrel 29 oz (info from noveske web site) Noveske 16.1" recon (medium) stainless barrel 34 oz incl gas block Noveske 18" lightweight (NST) stainless barrel 32 oz Noveske 18.5" spr (medium) stainless barrel 39 oz incl gas block These are 5.56mm barrels. For comparision, a 16" Colt HBAR is 35 oz and a 16" Colt M4 profile barrel is 28 oz. Note that when NST (Jansen or Rob) replied to my question, they stated they were using a ***lightweight*** barrel (not a skinny) and had no problem with the 600 yard targets after first firing 30 - 40 rounds.

The Noveske skinny barrel is a penicil profile like a Colt 6520. It's a 14.5" CHF barrel weighing 20 oz. You don't want to use this one for 3 gun.

I was struggling to decide on the Noveske lightweight or medium barrels for a 3 gun build, and asked a similar question of the NST guys via their FB page: My question: "NST guys - for 3 gun use, how are the Noveske lightweight barrels at resisting vertical stringing, like can occur at the end of a course of fire when you've heated the barrel up and now have to shoot flash targets at distance. I'm trying to decide between the Noveske 18" lightweight and 18" SPR barrels for a 3 gun build. Have handled 16" guns built with those same barrels profiles, and prefer how the lightweight barrel handles, but but the owner of the lightweight gun hasn't done that type of shooting so he can't help me with this question. Figured I should ask you guys to help me make my choice." NST's reply: "The lightweight barrels will do just fine after heating up. We have no problems with them in the conditions you described. Longest shot we have taken this season was 600 yards at RM3G and that was after we shot 30-40 rounds of 5 yard to 75 yard targets. First round hits on the long range was not a problem." Also, the "lightweight" term is something of a misnomer. The Noveske "skinny" barrel is about 20 oz, that's really lightweight. I recently asked Pat (Akpopo) about this same issue (medium v. lightweight) as he and his buddy have very similar ARs, one with a medium Noveske barrel and the other with a lightweight Noveske barrel. They have not seen any difference in performance between the two regarding heat affecting accuracy. Something else to consider, the Larue Pradatar barrels are a lightweight profile (not sure how much they weigh) and they are being used in 3 gun by a lot of guys who are not having any problems with heat affecting accuracy.

Thanks for the info, RS.

To the guys using the firedot VX-R scopes - do you know if it is feasible to occlude the front lens to use this scope for very close targets, like some of the TA-11 users do?

To the OP: How much accuracy improvement occurred by freefloating the barrel with the TRX?

Have not read Mike Seeklander's books but will be buying them. Also recommend: Steve Anderson's two books Saul Kirschs's two books Brian Enos' book The Inner Game of Tennis (Galway?) With Winning in mind (Bassham) Practical Shooting Manual (Matt Burkett) Mike Plaxco's book Also recommend videos: Saul's videos are the best, IMO Burkett's videos are also good All the above are good resouce, but are no substitute for a class. That will accelerate your learning far more than anything else you can do.

John does nice work, and since he's local to us in the Seattle area, it's nice to be able to drop off/pick up a gun to him in person or at a match. On Silhouette, beware that it is inverse temp sensitive. When I finish up what I have, I won't be buying more of it. WAC seems a better way to go. YMMV

Have taken classes from Matt Burkett and Ben Stoeger and highly recommend them both.

Nice JPL gun. Find a load that makes major and load a bunch of it. Experiment with grip pressure, elbow positioning, etc. Get RC springs in 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and try them to see what you like. Your grip will make more difference than the recoil springs will. Once you find something that works, dry practice a LOT. Be warned that Silhouette is inverse temp sensitive. Very important for if you you work up a load for typical Pac NW and then go to somewhere much hotter (Idaho, Nevada, etc).

I used a 1st gen redimag for some time. Worked very good. It's a VERY fast reload. Only thing is, when you hit the mag catch on the rifle, both mags drop free, so you better be ready to catch the new mag (the one held by the redimag). The newer version of the redimag eliminates that problem. IIRC, the redimod uses the newer version of the redimag, but I'm not sure that the weight savings of the redimod is worth the extra expense. I have seen pictures of guys who did their own modifications to redimags to attain some of the weight savings of the redimod. I prefer the redimag to a mag coupler, because the top round in the "new" mag won't walk forward under recoil, as they will with the mag couplers. Hope that helps.

If anyone is on the fence about taking a class from Ben, DO IT. Took a class from him last year and it was well worth it.

Nationals are important because they are THE premier USPSA event. They are the opportunity to measure yourself against the best on the same stages, to watch them in person, and to have to best of the best in one place going for the win is important. I've shot in 2 nationals and though I had not a chance of winning anything, I enjoyed the experience greatly.

P2 with the 1.5 option. Only 2k rounds. Still exceptionally tight. The only stoppage I had was with reloaded cartridge using a AMERC case that wouldn't chamber. It didn't pass a case gauge when I checked it later. Had a TRC. Sold it for funds for another project. There was nothing wrong with it. I have a lot of high end 1911s and think that Baer builds a gun as good as anyone else (and better than many) for a very good price.

Monster or Rockstar to start Gatorade Bananna Trail Mix More Gatorade

I would go with Noveske or JP. I do not like set screws. They will invariable loosen, given enough time. Be very, very sure about the barrel profile (weight) you order. This can make a HUGE difference in whether you love or hate the rifle. If possible, try someone else's before you buy.

I prefer open over limited. Instead of trying to find the perfect open load, I went with the recommendation of my gunsmith. For me, Open costs less to shoot than Limited: 9mm JHPs or CMJs are cheaper than 40 CMJs. 9mm brass is cheaper than .40. Primer is the same. I use Silhouette. Doesn't cost as much as Vihta. Open has made me a better and faster limited shooter. The most frustrating thing about open was losing the dot. After taking a class from Matt Burkett, and doing a bunch of practice, I made major improvements in this. YMMV

Use your M9! Ben Stoeger does VERY well shooting a Beretta. Check out his YouTube channel: elbeno007

I heard it said years ago (but have not substantiated) that it could alter the burn rate of the powder. Some powders have coatings, which could possibly be degraded with tumbling. If you use a carbide resizing die, you don't need to lube cases (handgun), thus no need to tumble the assembled ammo.

Why not consider G34 v. G35 instead of G17 v. G22?