azrik

I found out by some experimenting that the aftermarket captured glock (17, 22 ) recoil spring systems drop right in to the 2.0 5" gun. Also the striker spring that Wolff supplies with the reduced power glock springs drops right in and reduce the trigger pull by about 1/2 pound. With the 1.0 comp action kit (trigger, sear spring swap) and the glock 14# recoil spring and the reduced striker (wolff) I was able to bring the trigger from 6# to 3.5#, easier racking and a positive lockup. The positive lockup was what I was looking for after changing to a weaker recoil as the last 1/4" was kinda weak when cocking the striker. I've got about 250 rounds thru it at this configuration and all went well so far. Everything chambered and Winchester WSP and Magtech SPP primers all lit.

I had a similar issue with my MP9 2.0 where the round was hanging and seemed to chamber in a "2 step" motion. I found that the bottom corner of the extractor hook was digging into the extractor groove of the case. I took a 1911 trigger channel stone and very slightly rounded the corner that contacted the case on it's way up the breechface and no more 2 step hesitation. You might want to look at that corner to see how sharp it is and if it's stopping the round before it can slide under the extractor.

What springs did you change out on your gun and which model springs from Apex did you use. I'm guessing the trigger return and striker springs but Apex said they haven't developed a 2.0 kit yet so it's a hit and miss.

I bought a 24" M3000 and right out of the box the hammer would fall when resetting the trigger. I emailed Stoeger and after 4 days with no response I decided the best solution was to repair myself. After researching the big Stoeger thread here, I saw that the problem was the same as what Openclassterror described a fix for removing metal from the disconnector. I slowly (5 trys) refitted the disconnector to release later and am happy to say after 300 rounds the gun runs flawless. The M3000 is a great platform (should be as copied from Benelli) but for the life of me I can't see why Stoeger doesn't take a real safety issue like this more serious. I even emailed the serial number to help track a possible QC issue and got no response whatsoever. I would consider sending the trigger group to MOA for a race tuneup for extra cost rather than sending back to gamble a repair with Stoeger... Just an option.

Firing pin, extractor, fiber optic cable, recoil spring. I also threw in the extra rear site screw and spring I ordered after the original went flying one day. Of course the rule is if you have these things you'll never need them . With the FP, extractor and springs, make sure you install them and tune to run. (then take back off and label / bag) So when you have to do a hot swap at the safety table or in you motel room during a road show, you know you'll be good to go.

Target Model Browning Buck Mark. Didn't have to do the sear spring flip on this one as it had an adjusting screw on the back. Eats everything like all Buck Marks seem to do.

Had this just happen this weekend with an older Federal case. There were spiderweb cracks all thru the sidewall so I'm not sure what's going on. Bullet fired fine and didn't notice anything was wrong until I couldn't get the next three rounds to chamber.

Robert Ryan and I had a great time up there for your Inaugural match. The stages were fun, you've got a great group of shooters there and a facility screaming to be developed. We'll for sure be looking forward to more, especially when the heat turns on down here in Phoenix. I'm guessing that there might even be a mass exodus some Saturday afternoon with camping Sat. night for a Sunday match. Keep us updated. Thanks Again, Rick

great vid!

I just played around with some FO I had laying here. When larger, the perimeter doesn't have the brilliance of the core, it's still bright enought IMO. The piece measured .039 and I got the bulb to .088 My concern would be the durability. With so much material hanging onto the end, if loose at all, would it snap off more easily. Only experimenting would tell. Or... It's not as much fun but you could just order a bigger one for 35 bucks and sell the old one for 20.

Have you tried putting a little longer FO rod in and melting it back further? I've gotten a pretty big bulb out of .040(almost too big)

I had run into the same issue with an STI Edge in 40SW. The Lee FCD took care of it until I went to a moly bullet and created a number of fliers because of it. I removed the Lee FCD, (went back to a Dillon) with a Whidden floating die toolhead. Now, the only real case gauge issue I have is an occasional split case. ...might solve your problem.

The boy and I have been doing the steel matches at Rio and I told my Son when he got to "B" class with his Singlestack he could start shooting in the Limited class. It would only take him 4 months to do it so... I ask an old friend if he still had his old Limited gun for sale, he did, and brings it by to make me an offer I just couldn't refuse. Built in 1998 and hadn't been shot for about 8 or 10 years ...but that's gonna change right now!

Talked to RCBS via e-mail today. They reminded me not to store powder in the hopper, quoted the instruction that said so. "Powder should not be left in the measure, as it will deteriorate and may clog and jam the measuring cylinder and etch the powder hopper" ...and told me a new hopper was enroute no charge.

It looks like static may had initially stuck the flakes to the hopper but they were on there tight. After scraping them off with my fingernail they left a frosted / sandblasted look to the plastic. This reaction reminds me of when a rubber worm melts into a tacklebox tray.