fatcat

Yes, I agree the FL2000 is probably the best one out there for capacity. If you need clean more brass, get another one. There are some shooters that use that cheap a## cement mixer from Harbor freight, but it's slower than using the vibratory cleaners. If you don't put some type of guard around those mixing paddle edges, they will tend to ding up the brass.

I prefer the SVI long flat insert because it's the longest reach for me. I have pretty big hands so it's the most comfortable. Also, it feels the same as the Anschultz triggers that I was used to when I was using .22 free rifles in small bore competitions. I get more contact on my index finger pad to give me feedback on when the trigger is going to break.

This is what I did to add weight to be grip of my STI (pic courtesy of Patrick Kelly). Cape magwell + a stainless-steel MS housing. This is the stainless-steel version that I was very lucky to find. The company is only currently making the aluminum version. If they would start up a run of this version of their magwell, I would get 2 of them right off the bat. There are a lot of people that do not like a "grip heavy" gun, saying that it is slow out of the holster and between target transitions. Yes, I would agree if you are a steel challenge shooter. But I have found that guns that are weight-biased at the bottom of the grip have a tames recoil and has improved my shooting.

I've seen that cart up close at a local Japanese market and was not impressed. Made in China and not only the wheel size was too small but the frame would not really support at 30 lb load but a let alone a 150 lb shooter. No free lunch on this shooter cart + chart idea. Need at least a cart that has 12 - 16" bicycle wheels and just throw on your favorite folding chair.

i agree with getting a big safe and got a 48 x 24 x 72 inch box. I went with a Sturdy Safe: http://www.sturdysafe.com/ I believe they offer a much better value than the other brands that are "marketed" more. Whatever brand you go with, visit their site as they provide a lot of good information. Check out their videos.

Sorry for not the best pics in the world. Ionbond in "satin" finish. Gunsmithing by Will O'Hara (Corona, California)

The only thing that I would add is to regularly check your slide stop and extractor. These are the MIM parts that others have reported to have breakages but I personally have not had any issues. The only issues I ever had was the stock Kimber extractor tends to lose tension. Easily replaced. This is what I did over the years. Sorry about the bad pics. I eventually got sick of the grip saftey, so . . .

Yeah, it may be fat. But has anyone tried to do maintenance & break one down? I don't dig those itty-bitty springs. No thanks.

This is my 1st open gun. 5" gun, Big comp ports, 3 port holes. Very soft shooting. Built by Will O'Hara in Corona, CA. Dr. Sight by Beven Grams.

I beg to differ from the other forum members. Way back in the day before KKM, Wolf, or even Barsto made after-market barrels, the only non-factory barrel available for a G21 was from Wilson Combat. This was not a "drop-in" barrel, but is was already fully chambered. I can get my old school H&G 68 (lead SWC) loads to work. Because those bullets are bare lead w/ a grease groove, they are pretty dirty. I've since converted to use the various moly bullets. The Wilson barrel has more case support than factory, but less than other after-market barrels of today

I believe Prado would be closest range from Glendora. Norco would be the 2nd.

I'm unsure if this is still available - Rig "Lead-Away" clothes. These were cloth rags impregnated with a cakey yellow-orange cleaner that would chemically (& with some abrasives) clean out leading in barrels. For heavily leaded barrels, the advice given to me was to cut up the cloth in patches, load up the barrel with them and let them sit overnight. The next day, you could punch them out along with the lead. Although this was an effective way to clean leading out of a G17 barrel, I suspended use of lead bullets shortly after cleaning my barrel like this. Back in the day, if I wanted to shoot those old-school 200 grn SWC out of my G21, I swapped the barrel for one that had regular land/groves.

For my 1911/2011, S&W Revolvers: Wil O'Hara in Corona, CA

3,938 grains - (that's 9 ounces) Beven's old Tungsten mag well.

IP10 screws rock!

Switching the entire top end brings on a whole bunch of variables that can affect feeding. Slide to frame fit, the barrel, recoil spring . . . it all matters. Just because Glocks top ends can be swapped readily back/forth and you can cycle the gun does not that the combinations will feed (WORK). In most cases, swapping Glock top ends "should" work with the same ammo, but it should be the SAME ammo. Question: Why did you re-run your loaded ammo to reduce the OAL? Asssumed that you manually re-seated the loaded rounds through the seater die. As standard practice, most people would not reduce the OAL of loaded ammo unless the OAL was too long and you were hard up (time or lack of new components) to produce the correct reload.

I have an SRT from Heirloom. Fantastic detail and execution!

I purchase my STI/SV mag products and services from Beven Grams. He gives great service and honest opinions back up by real-life research. No hype!

Great Vids! Cursed those bloody Texas Stars! Can't wait for the LDF Steel match. See ya!

Competent Hi-Power 'smiths are not as plentiful as those that work on 1911's. Here's some suggestions: Don Williams (saw his work @ Shot show & looks very nice. Looks like he'll handle small & full-house jobs) http://www.theactionworks.com/ Novak's (Haven't seen their work, but it looks good and others have recommended) http://www.novaksights.com/browning.htm Heirloom Precision (Ted Yost & Jason Burton. Specializes in full-house packages. Unsure if they will do smaller jobs. I personally have an SRT Hi-Power from them and it's one of nicest guns I own. Check out the pics!) http://www.heirloomprecision.com/ If you're talking about the "thumb" safety, the only aftermarket one that I know of is Cylinder & Slide. LPA makes a nice sight set that would not need to be milled into the slide but it would be sit kinda high.

Do you contact info for the F2 company?

My experience has been 180 degrees opposite of yours. You gotta remember, these are "parts" that may or may not need to be fitted/tuned. I have SPS mags from "GE" and they have been 100%. I always (& all my friends) receive excellent service and communication on products and service. Unsure why you did not receive the same.

Nordic tubes are aluminum and therefore lighter than the DMW's. I've run Dave's tubes with no problems. Some of the earlier Nordic tubes had a different threading pitch which made them a little thin. I've seen two of these tubes crack right at the thread. To Tim's credit, he replaced those tubes with a new one.

Like all recoil operated guns that rely on springs, it's a balance that will have to be worked out. When you start reducing the striker spring weight to get a lighter pull, you are also running the risk of light strikes (mis-fires) and possibly a slower trigger return. If you are just talking about the recoil spring, you can go flat or round. You need to choose a guide rod that will be the right diameter. The flat wire springs will need a rod that will be sized the same as the stock plastic rod. Do a search on this, but most people will run a lower # weight. (i.e. Stock weight is 17#, but I run a 13# in a G35).

Thanks, Stu! You're the Best!