kneelingatlas

One of the local matches I shoot has stages with 25-35 rounds and 4-5 shooting positions, so for each stage you're talking about: -at least three changes of position -10+ splits -at least that many transitions -and only one draw (maybe none if you throw in the occasional table start.) So the way I see it, your best draw ever can help your score very little, but a poor/rushed draw can certainly cause problems for the whole stage. I had the pleasure of shooting side by side with a GM; what amazed me was that he didn't have a lightning draw, or machine gun splits, but he wasted no movement and never stopped moving. He was shooting on his way in and out of each shooting position, plus every movement was for a purpose. He didn't sweep past any targets, he didn't even glance where he didn't need to. Efficiency.

I love it Scotty!

Maybe I'm crazy, but I'm a C shooter and I don't want to be anywhere a timer. I have a good feeling at this stage in the game, shaving tenths off my draw time is not what's going to get me into B, but getting all my hits and not wasting movement is. I feel like the goal on the draw should be: get a solid grip, shoot two As on the first target, repeat. How often do you tank a stage? Consistency and repeatability are just as important as speed. I can only imagine this is more true between D and C; anyone with more experience want to chime in?

CHA-LEE has little patience for these thought exercise projects, which have little appeal other than to do crazy stuff no one else is doing, but this kind of thing is right up my alley This is the Jericho 941: Also known as the Baby Eagle, Uzi Eagle and the Desert Eagle Pistol, it is essentially an Israeli clone of the Tanfoglio, sort of... The Jericho at one time (I don't know the current situation) was mostly manufactured in Italy, by Tanfoglio then shipped to Israel for assembly by Israeli Military Industries (IMI) and at one point Israeli Weapons Industries (IWI); they have been imported to the US by KBI, O.F. Mossberg & Son, Magnum Research and Kahr. Barrels, magazines, hammers, triggers and other parts are directly interchangeable between the Jerichos and the Tanfoglios: the 9mm, .40 and .41AE models are small framed and the .45 is large frame. I have owned both small and large frame Jerichos and Tanfogios. The big difference between the Jerichos and the Tanfos is the slide mounted decocker safety. There were some frame safety Jerichos, but they are rare. This decocker is much simpler than the CZ decocker: It uses a V notch firing pin: and when the decocker is engaged it blocks the firing pin and simultaneously depresses the sear, dropping the hammer. If you want a 9mm decocker you might also look at a TA90: They're small framed and the one I had swapped slides with my Tanfoglios.

A Jericho 941 is essentially a decocker Tanfo.

The hard way to do it would be all custom parts, the easier (still not easy) way would be with the CZ decocker parts, but in that case, why not just buy a CZ decocker?

I got lucky enough to get a 9mm Gold Team upper, the slide is the same as the Stock II with lightening cuts on top. The barrel is roughly 5.3" with a two port comp and 12 holes in the barrel.

It's true; with two boys under four and another in the oven, I do way more thinking than shooting!

It sounds like you've answered your own question! When I first got my TS, I though race hammers were a big waste of money "I shortened and polished the hooks, my trigger is pretty bad ass...". Then I installed the SAO race hammer from CZ USA The hammer is heart of a great trigger. I had the race hammer in my Shadow too and it was well worth it (SRT is pretty bad ass too!), highly suggested.

Yea, I don't have to worry about that heavy trigger pull anymore

I say less theorizing, more shooting!

Maybe it's just another random Tanfoglio mystery that my SAO Hunter came with a standard DA/SA hammer in it (and a terrible 5# pull )

How well does it work the comp?

From what I've seen other are only two Tanfoglio hammers: the standard hammer and the heart shaped race hammer with shorter hooks. I believe both have a hole for the DA disconnector; my SAO Hunter came with the same hammer as all my DA Tanfos, minus the disco.

I bought a Match with the Henning trigger installed and swapped it to my factory new Hunter; the pin wouldn't fit into the frame, so I reamed it out. The Henning pin also won't fit through any of my Tanfoglio triggers.

Yes, I'm young, I like 9mms and I hate kittens!

I have the Henning trigger in my Hunter and it's pretty sweet to adjust, the only downside is that it's has square edges (I prefer a rounded trigger). Also, because you have to ream the holes in the frame to .100", there's no going back to the factory trigger pin, the Henning trigger pin is great, but you have to ream all your triggers to fit it. I use CGW reduced power trigger return springs designed for CZ in my Tanfos. The trigger return spring is easy to install once you make a slave pin: cut a nail to the same width as the trigger, install the TRS in the trigger outside of the pistol, insert the slave pin then install the trigger, the slave pin holds the spring in the trigger, than the trigger pin pushes it out.

The factory spring weights are in even kilograms, but I think the stock Tanfo hammer spring is in the 17-18# range.

I shoot .40 instead of 10mm for the same reason I shoot 9 major instead of .38 super: I don't has to search for MY brass, I can just grab ANY brass. When I go to the range and shoot a handful of rounds, sweep the brass in my lane into a pile, grab a handful of brass and go home (all but a few pieces will be 9, 40 or 45, all of which I reload), it takes exactly 20 seconds, but if I'm shooting 10mm or .38 super, I have to sweep up all the brass I can get to without disrupting other shooters, pick through the pile for 10 minutes just to recover 30%-40% of the brass I brought to the range. Plus every time I've found a piece of 10mm brass at the range I didn't shoot, it came from a Glock and has a bulge which will keep it from cycling reliably in my Tanfoglio of my dad's Colt.

Power Pistol is too fast and doesn't produce enough gas. 9 Major isn't just about making 165pf with a .355 projectile, it's about getting as much gas volume to work the comp as possible without blowing up the pistol. Most 9 Major shooters load upwards of 175pf because it shoots flatter in their pistols.

I like the grease gun idea!

Very interesting. I have two, one of which I just got from CZ USA so I'll measure when I get home.

Trade for some slower powder.

No, I have two boys (2 and 3 1/2) with a baby on the way in November.

That's funny! Maybe when I was a bachelor renting rooms, but now that I'm soon to be a father of three my stripper days are long gone.