kneelingatlas

I expect CZ to keep all the current models on the roster, just don't hold your breath for any new models until the supreme court rules the microstamping requirement unconstitutional. The CZ UB mag well looks cooler, but I think the CZC one performs better; it's bigger and deeper.

What a badass

If you go to your local USPSA match, look for a guy with an Open gun, chances are he'd trade his left nut for some Autocomp and while he may not have any Titegroup, he likely has something which would work better for your purposes (WST, 700X, Bullseye, etc.)

Easy now

Use the Titegroup for both and trade the Autocomp to an Open shooter for something faster burning.

Every time I think in terms of "fast" and "slow" my scores suffer. If you can shoot 73% in Production it obvious you can shoot, so shoot. It sounds like you're just throwing lead downrange right now. I don't think there's much to be gained by "speeding up" (read: rush, not call shots) the actual shooting, but the movements and the execution of the stage plan hold the greatest potential for time savings.

I don't know if I'd trust my life to a gun I don't trust at a match... Sell the plastic fantastic and never look back Have you ever tried a CZ75 pattern pistol? The Tactical Sport by CZ or the Limited by EAA/Tanfoglio are excellent choices and fantastic values when compared to 2011s if you ask me.

Robert, You sound a lot like me, I notice when I think in terms of "fast" and "slow" both my times and my points suffer. I view the "speed/accuracy tradeoff" as a false dichotomy; if I'm willing to trade hits for speed I get neither. My best performances are when I merely focus on executing my plan and exploding between shooting positions. It's pretty obvious you can shoot so I wouldn't mess with that if I were you, rather think about your movement: is the gun up and in position when you see the targets? do you start moving as soon as the bullet leaves the barrel? I got such a great education squadding with a local GM, he didn't have machine gun splits, nor did he even look rushed, just smooth, efficient and moved without a single wasted step. He was shooting as he entered the shooting area, and shooting on his way out; he rarely stopped moving.

So here's the real question: will you experience more consistent velocities between the two lots measuring by weight or volume? What did you do? Adjust the weight or the volume? Do you have chrono results?

If you have Clays, use that! I would start around 3gr and work up.

My data show a 7% increase in velocity going from a 4.1" barrel to a 5.1" barrel. What does surprise me is the flat primers, are you sure the powder has not been contaminated with faster powder? You should not be seeing pressure signs with those loads... I would set the 3n37 aside and try the n350 with book loads and see what the primers look like.

Speak it brother!

If you mean a 9mm barrel in a 9mm slide, then yes, a conversion kit would come that way.

It's probably converted, call EAA with the serial number and they'll tell you which caliber it was when it was imported.

Shorter, harder hooks, cool looks, but honestly, you can shorten the hooks on the stock hammer and get a pretty great trigger.

I'm surprised by that, since the large frame barrel is slightly larger around the lugs.

Edit: sent a PM instead.

I love that you went there The parallels are staggering aren't they? The beauty of USPSA is that you are free to opt out as the OP intends to do. Voluntary association is the keystone of freedom!

Alma nails it!

Shooters acting like lemmings?!? Say it ain't so

That's one possibility, before you change anything, hold the trigger to the rear and thumb the hammer cowboy style back and forth, can to feel the hammer hooks touching the sear? If so dial out the over travel screw.

I imagine I'll use the depth gauge end of the calipers down the muzzle, once with the case resting against the breech (slide closed), then again pushing the case to the front of the chamber.

You can get the same pull weights with a stock trigger and CGW RP TRS as with Henning's trigger. No, the best I've come up with is to clip the stock spring to the point just before the FP gets stuck in the breech face when dryfired on an empty chamber. You can figure this length by dropping the FP in the slide with no spring and measuring to the rear of the slide. I've also heard of drilling out the center of the coils to reduce the coil diameter, but never tried it.

Yes

Two springs will get you where you want to be: CZ sear spring and Cajun Gun Works reduced power trigger return spring.