kneelingatlas

Exactly, because of case variations I believe every .40 has a slight gap from the front of the chamber, I just haven't had a chance to test that theory yet.

SA pull weight is all in the hammer hooks and the sear, the lighter the hammer spring, the mushier the break.

NO, there's clearly something wrong here, you should seek professional help OK, so maybe I have a small fetish for CZ75 pattern pistols...

I didn't intend to load so long the bullet touched the rifling during normal cycling, just long enough so that if if were to jump in front of the extractor for some reason it wouldn't go into battery.

"buy once, cry once" has a nice ring to it

I feel more comfortable with 40/10 than 9/38 because the only difference between 4/10 is the length whereas 9/38 have different necks and bases

I'm not too concerned, but I'm trying to get my hands on a .40 barrel anyway, just for piece of mind.

You can load longish with the right bullet profile; I've had some 147s hit the rifling at 1.1" and others at 1.14" (Falcon bullets). I think I prefer 135s to 147s.

In the article 56hawk posted the problem was the 40 round being touched off in front of the extractor... Maybe if the loading long the bullet would hit the rifling before it got that deep...

Where I shoot the majority of my matched the brass recovery rate is very low, just ask the 38 super duper guys Besides, if I were interested in keeping track of my brass I'd be shooting a 38 Open gun, but I'm not which is why I shoot 9 Major

I know you probably forgot more about tanfoglio than I know. Is there some rule about using the 10mm ammo in competition or is it just about the load?If you reload, you can make 10 mm the same as 40 PF The brass is much harder to come by and since I get all the .40 I want for nothing, it's infinitely more expensive; Starline 10mm brass cost more than I spend on the entire loaded .40 round .

I think IPSC has a minimum trigger pull weight doesn't it? 5# min for the first shot. No wonder the DA/SA dominate, just one 5# pull, then <2# for the rest of the stage as apposed to a 5# Glock trigger

did you get the P09 yet?

You've got it Once you get the SA to reset, you may need to relieve more on the way down the wedge to get a smooth DA stroke.

You should ask Rowdy (http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showuser=48449), he shot a 75B in IDPA, bought an SP01 Shadow when he started shooting USPSA and shortly traded it to me for a short dust cover Shadow. You really have three nose configurations for a CZ Production gun: Heavy: Light: Lighter: Then there's the Phantom as well, but I don't know anyone shooting one of those... The lighter muzzle does transition faster, but also flips more, but flips faster as well. If you ask me it's all about getting in rhythm with the gun and dancing with it

Nice shooting Alex

Gurka, The thickness is what gives you a shorter reset than factory, so if you make it as thin as the stock disco, you'll have the same slack in the reset as it did before; you will likely only need to remove a small amount of material from the top back corner of the wedge (if that makes sense?).

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=191773 There's some useful disco modification talk at the bottom of the first page and on the fourth page. You can either remove metal (slowly using a fine file) from the back of the disco wedge, or the foot of the sear, or a combination of both to get the SA to reset. The more you take from the sear the shorter the reset, but if you go too far with the sear you can cause issues... It's a fine line The safe way to do it is to take everything from the disco, the only downside is a longer reset.

Don't be discouraged, you're on your way to the perfect reset! You need to remove some metal to allow the trigger to come forward far enough to reset. You should be able to put the slide back on with the hammer at half cock, can you then pull the trigger DA?

Hmmm

Wow, that's sounds like something I've done! I did the opposite though: I tried to find a gunsmith to fit a 2011 comp to my Tanfo, found one, he destroyed a barrel, then a comp, then a slide. I third it again with a local machinist who only destroyed a barrel. I have since bought all the dies I need to do it myself... Finally made some progress last night: If that machinist of yours slows down again I'd be interested in another of those comps Did you add the holes in the sides after testing it?

I was just thinking the same thing.

Talk to http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showuser=32359