purecharger

What goes wrong? I've now run .308, .223 and .45 through my 1050 and ran into a few easily fixable issues..either us here on the forum or the friendly folks at Dillon could help you out!

I broke down and bought the Dillon Rapid Trim 1200B last week, along with size/trim dies for .223 and .308. Not only do I wish I'd bought it sooner, but I'm happy I didn't go with any of the single case manual trimmers I'd been researching. This trimmer is precise: I've mic'd a couple dozen and every single one comes out to the 1.755" (.223) that I set it too, and the vacuum manifold draws away every bit of trimmed brass. I put it on my Super 1050 using the toolhead previously setup for .45 loading. Also the trimmer is nowhere near as loud as I'd thought it would be after reading other posts. I highly recommend this trimmer for any bulk prep of brass.

Seriously! Seems like the majority of posts I read are people doing their best to avoid changing calibers, and god forbid changing the primer system. The 45 minutes I spent on Thursday switching from Large to Small primers on my 1050 was way better than spending $1700 on another press. Like others in this post say switching calibers is a great opportunity to clean and lube your press. I'm one of the least mechanically inclined people out there and even I found it straightforward.

Its already been mentioned, but I just bought 5000 brand new 55gr .223 FMJBT from wideners.com for a great price. I get my .308 from GIBrass, 147gr FMJBT collet pulled, although he is out of stock currently.

Ten. Fifty. That is all.

I set off a primer in my 1050 a few weeks ago, loading .45 with recycled brass. As far as I can tell the decapper didn't pop the spent primer out of the shell in station 1, or didn't pop it out fully. Inspecting the case after detonation shows that the old primer walls were still inside the the primer pocket, as well as the structural component of the primer. I should have backed off the downstroke when I felt resistance, but I assumed it was just a hard-to-size case. Since the primer is slid forward before the punch inserts into the pocket, the rest of the nearly full primer tube was safe. My ears rang for hours (I reload in a walk-in closet) and I was scared sh*tless, but theres zero damage to the press. Now when I feel resistance at the end of my downstroke I pause and double check the case about to be primed.

Here's a link to a closed auction, poke around for current ones: http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/view?auctionId=5679485#auction_tabs

This is great advice, and is exactly how I've learned the ins and outs of my 1050. I bought it back in January and at first was a little intimidated and frustrated by things like the ratchet tab catching. I spilled powder all up in the shellplate, crushed cases from the case plunger, etc.. but once I got comfortable breaking the machine down cleaning and changing toolheads I got those "Aha!" moments about how it works and operation has become a dream. I was having case insertion problems initially (.308) and some adjustments fixed the problem for me. I tightened the shellplate locking nut and screwed in the indexing stop screw which is turned horizontally on the main body of the press underneath station 6, the empty check station. Also, at one point I had some powder in the ball+spring that indexes into the shellplate. When that didnt spring properly then the shellplate wouldn't index completely and cases would not get inserted into station 1. Stick with it and fix these minor adjustments and I think you'll find yourself loving the 1050.

Pictures please!!

I love my 1050 and finally after about 8 months have it dialed, in terms of knowing exactly how it works, feeling the operation of the machine and knowing how to handle errors when they come up. I load .45 and .308 on it, and I'm about to pull the trigger on a .223 setup. I see a lot of members have multiple presses for multiple calibers, or dedicated to small and large primer systems. While I haven't changed from large to small primer system yet, I don't think its so difficult or time consuming enough to justify dropping ~$2k to avoid. Hell, half the fun of this press for me has been the tinkering and learning.

Seating the primer on the downstroke and a station dedicated to primer pocket swaging.

After reloading a couple hundred rounds of .45 in 15 minutes yesterday, my favorite reloader is definitely my Dillon Super 1050.

My new Dillon Blue Press catalog came yesterday and had a half page letter from a reader who discovered small primer .45 brass the hard way. Said he had a whole stack of primers go off and cause damage to his XL650. I just bought a large box of used .45 brass from a member here and while there wasn't much small primer brass in the shipment, it was still annoying to have to sort, and I think I let a couple slip through

If you get #21393 Quick-Change, it includes both the toolhead and powder measure - hence the 'quick-change'. You wouldn't also need #20420.

Great idea! Thanks for the materials list..this actually looks like something I could do.

Thanks!

Hey all, new member here from San Diego. I recently bought a Super 1050 in .308, and a caliber conversion for .45 ACP. My uncle has been reloading for decades on a Dillon XL650, and I caught the reloading bug when I helped him load 5000 rounds for my M1A last year. The 1050 is a different beast for sure, and I've been spending my time learning the machine. I joined the forum yesterday and its already been helpful - I was having problems with the ratchet catching on the upstroke and information here told me to tighten the detent that holds the tab back. I live in a downtown condo with walk-in closets. Here are a few pics of the reloading room that I turned one of the closets into, and my uncle helping me build it: