purecharger

Well after sitting unscrewed for most of yesterday the expander ball loosened from the pin and turns out it just slips over the threads of the pin..

Just ordered from benos' store. thanks.

Very nice to know thank you! Definitely dont need to validate that on my own.

The price premium over the pistol decapping pin makes me think the expander ball is included but I would like confirmation. Someone on here has to have ordered the pins and can chime in.. The other thing is since I've already sized these cases once with the expander ball in place, the only thing I've done now is collet-pulled the seat bullet I'm wondering if I can get away with resizing but no expander ball..I'll try a single case and see how it goes.

Thanks razorfish for the link, but page 2 of that manual is referring to pistol dies. I'm talking about the .223 sizing die which has an expander ball (I incorrectly called this the 'neck sizer' in my original post). Here is a picture that will hopefully illustrate what I'm talking about. I've unscrewed the decap pin from the sizing insert and you can see that the expander ball is left with the decap pin. Now I can put the insert back in the .223 size die but I won't get the neck expanded like I want. So my question: is there a way to separate the decap pin from the expander ball so that I can get neck expansion but no decapping? Or, is the expander ball integral to the decap pin and if I order spare decap pins will they all have the expander ball?

I just finished pulling 100 rounds of .223 because I sized them wrong, and what I'd like to do is resize the primed cases. Looking at how to do this I see that I can unscrew the decapping pin from my Dillon sizing die, but I don't see a way to unscrew just the pin and leave the neck sizer. So the next thought is to take a dremel and cut off most of the decapping pin so the live primer stays in the case. If I order spare decapping pins do they include the neck sizer? Or is there a way to separate just the pin and leave the neck sizer?

Yikes.. if this were the case I'd sell my 1050. I'd add at least a zero to that.. and maybe a multiply it by 2 or 3 It used to be much more frustrating. I've been conditioned now to clean out the tiniest specks of powder as soon as I see them.

I also have had powder spill issues with my 1050, primarily when loading tiny ball powder on .308/.223 like BL-C(2) and WC844. I got it under control by a combination of: 1. Installing SPRSkip's replacement case feed roller plate on the toolhead 2. Pausing an extra beat at the end of the downstroke to let every last little grain fall 3. Disassembling and thoroughly cleaning the powder measure assembly with qtips and alcohol Every 200 rounds or so: 1. lift the shellplate and clean out the indexer spring and ball so that the shell plate indexes smoothly 2. use compressed air to blow any powder that has dropped out from the shellplate It used to be I couldn't go 100 rounds without enough powder spillage to completely gum up the shellplate, but now I dont have a problem.

I'll echo what atbarr says above: with pistol you only need to bell enough to seat the bullet. At first I was belling exactly to the measurement in the instructions which was WAY too much. Just bell it enough so you can place the bullet easily without it falling out..doesn't take much.

If its in stock, Dillon is shipping orders pretty quick. Last tuesday I ordered a set of .44 Magnum dies and the conversion kit for 1050. The shipment arrived Monday. I'm a happy camper!

Hoping I don't get flamed for posting this here, but I don't have the 200 posts required to start a topic in the Non-Dealer Brass classified sections. I've bought brass from members here before but now that I ordered a Ruger Super Redhawk in .44 Magnum on Monday I'm looking to buy some. Does anybody have some .44 mag brass they are looking to part with?

This!! I'm a mechanical idiot, and swapping the primer system is easy. Definitely not worth the cost of another 1050 to avoid.

I was reading up on headspace and I thought this passage was relevant: Article: http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2009/08/reloading-headspace.html

I had the exact same issue with sizing 5.56 LC brass - it looked perfect in the Dillon case gage (in between the high and low step) so I went ahead and loaded 100 rounds only to find that every 2 or 3 wouldn't chamber in my JSE upper. I was wary of turning the size die down more, since it was already touching the shellplate, but I went ahead and did it anyway. Now my cases gage just below the low step, and chamber flawlessly in my rifle. I don't notice any adverse effects on the shellplate even though the last 5 degrees or so of the handle downstroke are after the die contacts the shellplate.

Brian, I've tried to see exactly where it comes from but I don't think I've pinpointed it yet. I do have to exert extra force on my upstroke caused by the expander ball necksizing in station 1, I feel that this little jerk when the ball leaves the case mouth knocks a couple granules loose. I have another rifle powder bar that I can try and see if it reduces the loose powder. Polish the inside of the funnel with a dremel tool? One more thing to add to the shopping list The lube sounds like it could be a culprit, I think what I'll try to do, after completely cleaning the machine again, is wipe all lube off the shoulder neck and mouth of 100 cases and see if the problem persists. Thanks all.

I am loading lubed cases, lube applied probably a bit too liberally for trimming on the 1200B. Thats a good test: wipe the lube off the case neck and mouth of a bunch of cases and see if I get the same problem. I ran out of cans of compressed air, I really should get an air compressor.

I'm using WC844 pulldown powder (I believe its very close to H335) which is a very fine powder. I can't get through 100 rounds of .223 on my 1050 without powder getting literally everywhere. It seems to be only a few pieces of powder on each handle upstroke that leaks out, but multiplied over 100 powder drops its a ridiculous amount of powder that results in the machine getting gummed up. I have to then stop completely and clean everything out which is a complete pain in the a**. I don't experience this when loading .45, using Hodgdon Clays powder which is a much larger flake type. I have adjusted the powder measure return rod and the height of the powder measure die so its open for only the amount of time/travel required to throw a full charge (26gr) and still I have this issue. I've also removed the die and cleaned the inside of the powder funnel with alcohol, letting it dry afterward. Has anyone else encountered and fixed this issue? It makes loading .223 very unpleasant.

Great fix. I just loaded a couple hundred .223 with zero case feed issues, and I tried at times to go faster than normal just to push it. I have to wonder why Dillon hasn't noticed this - I couldn't get through 15 cases before without a hangup on the feed into the shellplate.

Skip, I got mine on Monday in great shape, did about 10 rounds of .223 just to check it out, no issues. Planning to load a bunch this weekend and I'll post back here.

I turned a walk-in closet into my workshop/reload room and just trimmed 2k cases of .223 with my Dillon 1200. I have a little 1gal shop vac that I duct taped to the vacuum manifold and ever single brass shaving went into the vacuum. I resisted the 1200B for a while because of the price but now that I got one I'm glad I didnt get anything else. Just sit there and pull the handle.

I don't know about .223. as I have not loaded it on the 1050 yet. Maybe someone else will jump in here about it? I'm loading .223 on my 1050 and have the same problem, also ordered a plate from SPRSkip. It happens on .308 also, but I notice it less when loading .45

Thanks for the offer! Hopefully people from Dillon have noticed this thread too.

My uncle has one from about 6 years ago and it runs hotter and louder than mine.

Eddie, from the left side of the machine directly under the shell plate at station 5 there is a screw you can adjust with a small hex key to control the indexing of the plate on the upstroke. Screwing it clockwise will cause the upstroke to stop the shell plate indexing sooner - it may be that the shell plate is indexing just a hair too much and causing the brass to catch when the casefeeder spring is freed.

I just had to take about 70 primers out of my 1050. I almost removed the whole assembly but instead I used a pair of needle nose pliers and cycled the handle until I'd picked them all out. Took about 5-10 minutes and wasn't a big deal.