Kory

Am I the only one having an issue with constantly breaking CZ-75B slidestops? My favorite little 9mm just broke it's third SS last Sunday, fortunately I had a spare. they seem to last about 12-15K rounds. There is nothing special about the ammo or springs: factory recoil spring, loads are 115's going 1140 ft/sec. I have decided that for any major match, I am putting in a brand new one as a precaution. Is this typical for CZ's, or am I just that lucky?

Zero 115 FMJ 4.6 n320 1.150" OAL This goes ~1140 ft/sec out of both of my 9mm CZ-75's, runs good and feels good.

I just realized that the strategy of hiding only works if it is not popular. If everybody did it, there wouldn't be anywhere left to hide.

I just did mine on a 97 buick lesabre, very similar chassis to your car. It's about 10x harder than doing a brake job, and about 1/10th as hard as replacing a motor. The rear's are a piece of cake, relatively. The front's you will need a spring compressor tool (can be borrowed from some auto parts stores) and you really ought to read the service manual's instructions for what order to remove fasteners. Compressed coil springs have a lot of stored energy, keep that in mind at all times.

Borrow some money from them, see if they "remember" the debt then.

I'll shoot steel matches in the rain, but IPSC is way more of a pain in the rear. Bagged target suck to score and tape, it's a hell of a lot harder to get a decent sight picture through a plastic bag (where's the A-zone?) and pasters don't stick very well. That said, it will likely be raining lightly at tomorrow morning's IPSC match, and I will be going. Shot a steel match a while ago and it started raining, we retreated under the cover and decided to shoot Pendulum from under the cover. Heck, what's an extra 25' or so?

"....and says that the radiators in his apartment should be red hot 24/7" Oh man, I lived in a building like that once, it was hell. Old building heated by steam, everybody's radiators got hot in fall, all windows were opened for winter. Why somebody would prefer that is beyond me, it was unbearable! (currently enjoying a thermostat set to 65)

Yep, I missed the bold text that repeatedly stated 38 Super

Currently using 115's, 4.6 n320, WSP, 1.150 OAL

Just this last Sunday I was shooting a steel match, about two stages into it my CZ decides to go full auto. I stop shooting and I get out the spare CZ to finish the match. That one ran fine the rest of the match. We then went to the second steel match scheduled that day and it starts to have a trigger reset problem on stage one. The triggerbar spring decided it would rather sit up high between the triggerbar and the magazine rather than underneith the triggerbar where it was designed to be. I took that gun half apart, got it to stay down a little better and finished the match. I get home, take the two problematic CZ's apart to figure out what's going wrong and I notice the fixed rear sight on the #2 gun is about half a magazine away from being a two-piece rear sight, it was cracked 90% through and the rear of it was sitting 1/8" too high. I just replaced the rear sight on the #1 CZ a couple months ago because it broke the exact same way. The #1 CZ went FA because it broke the hammer pivot pin and became a semi free-floating hammer that could jump out from under the sear when the slide slammed home. I know that not any one of these problems was all that unusual, but having three different problems on one day spread out between two pistols that normally run like champs; that was weird.

I have had a few shooters tell me, "I wouldn't pick up nine brass here, to many 9-major shooters" I am yet to have any problems with the undoubtedly small percentage (but growing) number of 9mm cases that have been subjected to a 9-major loading before I found them. Is this something I really ought to be concerned about? I load 9-minor only, but I pickup brass that wasn't mine originally. Yesterday a fellow 9-minor shooter that hits the same ranges that I do, and probubly picks up pretty much the same brass had a few primers fall out. They were all the same headstamp, I have a sample to know what to avoid. His experience got me thinking and prompted this thread, so what do you think?

5 gallon buckets with lids. They hold about 50# each, they are cheap, they are sturdy, and they stack nicely. I toss in a couple of desi-packs and they stay shiney forever. One bucket for dirty unsorted brass, one bucket for clean 9mm, one bucket for .40, etc. Some of you guys tumble BEFORE you sort by size? How does that work, half my dirty .40 cases have a 9mm/38super stuck in them. They don't clean well like that.

I got lucky a couple times and won a bowling pin match shooting a 9mm with 115's going a lowly 1150 ft/sec. They must have been fresh pins because every time after that, I only seem to wound them and make they lie down on the table. I need to develop a good .45 load for pins, and learn how to shoot my .45 as good as my 9, which I shoot 1,000,000% more rounds through a year.

That was among the first thoughts I had when I got my 650, "How the heck am I supposed to keep the pivots greased, no fittings?" I can dribble oil into the hole, it's messier, and I prefer grease in this application. I can disassemble the pivot, clean and grease, pain in the rear. I wish I still had that little Japanese grease gun with interchangable tips, the pointy tip would work well in this application. Sure the machine might not gall, but it could always be smoother in operation.

I bought it from Airsoft Atlanta, it is made by Airsoft Innovations, it was about $30, it has paid for itself. Get ready for rotten egg fart smell.

I use regular propane as it comes in 1# Coleman bottles. I had to buy an adapter, the one I homemade was a PITA. Both brands of green gas I had listed a chemical formula that is impossible, and they both burned just like propane. Propane is relatively safe, the concentrations required to be flammable will never happen indoors using an airsoft, the crappy mercaptan smell is the bigger problem. It requires windows open to vent the smell, which might not work for you in colder climates.

I set up a 1/4 scale Steel Challenge stage in my living room with aluminum plates. It is really a lot of fun shooting Smoke and Hope from your sofa while watching TV; vacuuming up all the broken BB pieces afterwards is not as much fun. I have heard rumors that some folks shoot indoor IPSC with airsoft, I imagine shorter courses w/o a mag change; but I have never tried it. I may eventually get one of the STI look alikes, I just have a KWA Glock-19 fake that is about worn out after 25K BB's. The barrel broke(I fixed it), the hop up is worn out, it only works well with one mag, and I don't know where to get spare parts like springs and seals.

stage description reads "start in box A, on signal engage all targets" If you are the only one in your squad that didn't assume you must shoot from box A, you are the gamer. Well, that's how I got the label last time, and I did win the game that day.

Thanks for the replies. I think I may give the SS a detent for the plunger to work with. It has mostly been a problem for other shooters (lefties) that tried my 1911, when I shoot it my left thumb sits right there acting as a secondary passive retainer.

Gun is a Springfield "loaded", I bought it about five years ago but only shot maybe 300 rounds through it then put it in the safe and forgot about it. Overall fit seems OK. The SS still has the inner lip. I was thinking aboutusing it for bowling pin this Saturday, then remembered it has this problem. With the slide moved back so the notches line up, the SS can be pushed out with essentially no resistance. That seems wrong, but I am a 1911 illiterate.

Yes, the plunger tube has a spring in it and a plunger at each end. The plunger does not engage the SS in any meaningfull way, it pushes against it but there is not recess for the plunger to work with.

I don't know squat about 1911's, but I of course own a .45 single stack which very rarely gets shot. Problem is the slidestop wants to work it's way out of the gun during firing. My left thumb usually keeps it in place passively, but when others shoot it, it moves out a tiny bit and locks up the gun. common causes?

spring rate (lbs/in) is the average of the required force to compress between 20% compression and 80% compression*. Cut a coil off and you just changed the compression lengths, and the K value will increase. However it is mostly unrelated to recoil springs, as they are not rated in lbs/in, but instead rated in how much force they exert at full working compression. Shorten the spring but keep the same installed length, the spring will exert less force at THAT length. If you want to sort out your springs, measure the distance your spring has in your gun at full compression (and in battery), then use a homemade spring holder and a fish scale to determine how much force your springs are exerting at those two lengths. * imagine a 5" spring rated at 10# It got that rating by averaging the force exerted when compressed to 4" and 1" OAL. The K value is approximates a linear constant through that 60% range.

Twice this happened to me today on long field courses with running. After showing clear and reholstering, the question comes up whether or not the RO was able to keep up and consequently did the timer pick up the last shot on that stage. Both times the question was prompted by the checking/calling of the time, not because the RO knew he was behind. Five other shooters and seven stages today, the timer only seems to have this problem when I have a super warp speed stage; never a problem with anybody else. Same RO for our squad most of the day. What?

I learned that I should have bought that Dillon 650 about three years earlier. I also learned that having the popular/expensive handgun isn't nearly as important as I once thought.