HOGRIDER

Have observed that even those shooting the stock classes in GSSF will eventually change the stock sights, install a "-" connector if not so equipped, and do a polish job once they get serious...... HR

Good advice TonyK! Be great if we all had the chance to watch a machinist in action; would greatly increase our knowledge of what it takes to produce something that "appears" to be so simple....

+1! And if your having to tweak that crimp setting due to different brass, bullets, etc., then this might be one of those must have tools: http://www.redding-reloading.com/media-center/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=151%3Amicro-adjustable-taper-crimp-dies

My Son purchased a KKM for his G17G4 and it was basically a drop in. Definitely improved the lock-up. I bought a semi-drop in Bar-Sto for my G17G4 that only required stoning at the rear of the hood. Excellent fit and lock-up. Son is very satisfied with his KKM. HR

Having been very active in IPSC many years ago, I've been through the corncob/walnut media cleaning with a vibratory tumbler. Dealt with the dust; and also tried many combinations of NuFinish, etc, to enhance the cleaning which for my senior eyes makes inspecting/prepping the brass much easier. Once it built the wet tumbler, and experienced the ease of cleaning, I was sold on this technique. And IMHO, I don't think it involves a lot more effort to produce exceptionally clean brass and their primer pockets. My procedure is similar: Pick up the brass deprime and sort by caliber and/or headstamp. Dump cases into tumbler that contains correct amount of SS pins, water, dawn liquid soap, and a few 45acp cases of LemiShine. Tumble for 3-4 hours, rinse, and towel/air dry. Ready for inspection and reloading. Again, for my use, the wet tumbling is more convenient and the media never wears out. My humble setup: Just another option............YMMV. HR

Ummm.......for now, I thoroughly enjoy the results of wet tumbling all my pistol brass: YMMV............

FL: I feel confident if I was using the stock G17 barrel these rounds would load out a bit longer. Guess there's not too many here using 147gr lead loads.....especially with an aftermarket barrel. Once I get the bench built, and the XL650 set up, I'll hopefully have some time to develop a good load with the Missouri rounds. Good to hear you're having success with the WSF. After a lot of reading/research, I've heard that many lead shooters say Unique and lead are a "match made in heaven"; and that WSF is for all practical purposes, nearly identical to WSF. One experienced loader claimed he could use starting load info for Unique when there wasn't info available for WSF. Normally use N320 for the jacketed loads; but I really want to see if I can develop a great load using lead and a reasonably available, inexpensive powder that will yield an accurate minor PF load. Thanks for your feed back!!

Have a semi drop-in Bar-Sto barrel in my G17, and going to load Missouri Bullets 147gr L-FP for less expensive practice using minor PF (900fps). Of course, I hope to develop a load where accuracy is first priority. Then if I miss, I know it's me and not the ammo! Was checking for OAL using fltbed's procedure that he explained here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=167553&p=1860182 Checking with the Starrett mic, it's coming out to approximately 1.137". Now if I shorten the recommended .015", then I'm going to be right around 1.122". At first this seems a bit short compared to the 147gr MG/Zero loads I've been shooting at ~1.140" - 1.142" in the factory Glock barrel which I realize has different chamber specs/rifling.......... Am I correct in thinking that the ogive of the LFP is normally going to require a shorter OAL? Thanks for any feedback. HR

Watch the youtube vid theKenny posted; and you'll be glad you did the install yourself. Definitely helps you familiarize yourself with how the glock works; and how simple it is to break down and reassemble. Another video: http://www.godsofguns.com/how-to-break-down-a-glock-total-disassemble-full-explanation/ Another: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV0wDDFV0NY&feature=player_embedded Another favorite visual aid: http://web.archive.org/web/20120320082942oe_/http://www.sniperworld.com/flash/version16_tgs.swf

If this was indeed an XL650 NIB without any extras, then $550 wasn't a great price. Check this website's online store where you'll find a NIB XL650 for $566.95 along with free shipping! Yes, the XL650 is a great machine!

Some good info on COL: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=186965&p=2072881

Doug, since I've got the Competition Seating Die, I'll start looking around for the Comp Pro Sizing Die..... Want to say Happy New Year; and I thank everyone for their excellent replies.

Doug: While your comments are truly appreciated, I wonder if you can think of what your procedure would be for that "premium 50 yard ammo" if a roll sizer was not available? Have dealt with 40 S&W previously by decapping and fl resizing with the Redding GR-X prior to wet tumbling. Of course, it was a pain in the rear; but we never experienced a round that failed the case gauge. And the loading process was much easier as you noted............. Thanks.

From AA&A News publication: http://www.atlantaarmsandammo.com/NEWS/SSUSA1209_AArms_.pdf

As I mentioned earlier, I will be using FC brass as I have quite a bit. And I see many here have had success with the standard Lee sizer, the EGW Udie, plus the excellent Redding Comp Pro series. I'll probably order a Udie and see what plays out once I actually get started loading. And I think the post about polishing the powder through die will play a big role in smooth press operation as I remember that being an issue with my Son loading the 40 S&W with a Udie; and the cases hanging on the case mouth expander. Once we started resizing with a GR-X prior to the reloading process, the standard Lee sizer worked just fine; and the whole process was very smooth. Again, this was 40 S&W primarily out of stock Glock barrels. Appreciate all the feedback!!

You will get closer to perfection with a casepro than you will with a die machined smaller than normal. Agree the casepro will produce as new brass; but $1k is not in the budget...... If I had an additional $1k to spend, I'd go the Super 1050 route. Guess I'm still having flashbacks of dealing with Glock shot 40 S&W brass; and hoping to get some reliable info on what's recommended for getting optimal resizing of 9mm done in a progressive press during a normal reloading sequence. Thanks!

Dog: I'm fully aware of Redding's reputation; and agree they are excellent product! Right now I'm wondering if their sizing die in the Competition Pro set will do full length sizing on par with the Lee/EGW Udies? Don't remember seeing their dies mentioned in posts relating to resizing issues. Thanks

Glk21C: I'm not familiar with the makorov to make a comment one way or the other.........

Sarge: Even though I already have the standard Lee die, and it's not an expensive item, I'd probably prefer to start with a Udie from the get go. And I do have a lot of FC once fired. Would you recommend the Lee Udie or the EGW? I see the EGW is more expensive; but they claim (on their site) that their product is made by Lee to their specs. If I'm going to purchase one, would prefer to get it right the first time. I initially planned on getting the Redding Pro seater, but decided to try the mic version. Thought it might be a bit simpler to remember changes between different bullet types/manufacturers. Will probably at least give it a try in the beginning. From reading many posts here on the Forum and always paying attention to post of yours and others with respected experience, I've not been inclined to use the Lee FCD. Especially when loading lead. So I'll probably go with a Redding or Dillon TC die. Have noticed many like the Dillon for it's ease of cleaning. Also curious as to Reddings new micrometer crimp die that's supposed to be released next month. Wonder if it would prove beneficial when switching from one brand of brass to another...... Fully appreciate staying away from as many "gotcha's" as possible! Thank you for your excellent feedback and opinions!

Having loaded many thousand rounds of 38S & 45ACP some 25 years ago, going to purchase/set up another XL650 for 9mm in the very near future. My goal is to produce the highest quality loads possible since I'm very aware of issues with incorrect charging, setback, crimp, etc. Having set up my Son's XL650 a couple of years ago, he seems to be producing good quality 9mm that we both shoot; but with the number of hours he works, his reloading time is very limited. I'll definitely have more free time to load; and I'm much more "picky" when working up loads as I naturally strive for perfection. Have purchased a Redding micrometer seating die and have a Lee FL carbide sizer. A concern I have right now, is should I go ahead and start off with a 9mm undersize die since I'll be loading primarily range brass along with new Starline? When he was loading 40 S&W, I definitely remember my Son complaining about how much more "work" it was to load 40 S&W with a U-die as compared to a standard die. This may or may not compare to the 9mm; but before he stopped loading the 40's, I started cleaning, depriming, and resizing the brass with the Redding GR-X. This made loading on his end a breeze. And yes, we both use a quality case lube. Will be loading quality lead for practice along with Zero and/or MG for casual competition. Appreciate any feedback or recommendations.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the Bluegrass State!

With my large hands, I also prefer the G19G4 for CCW. Bought the wife a G26G4 for her CCW, but she now prefers a G19G4 also. IMO, always handle/shoot a G26 before commiting........

When I was shooting the G35G4 in GSSF stock competition class, I used the G34G4 RSA for low PF loads. Also used the Jager hardened steel guide rod that allowed swapping G3 type springs for non GSSF. http://jagerproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35&products_id=90&zenid=qcgkttf6ae07r7nadegkggg191

Gen4 G26 is a fine pistol! Excellent accuracy and the option of +2 extra rounds with the Pearce PGG4+ mag extensions.

G17: I may have found an excellent animation that helps to explain what's going on with my stock RSA and the Bar-Sto barrel: http://web.archive.org/web/20120320082942oe_/http://www.sniperworld.com/flash/version16_tgs.swf Once this page loads, a tab labeled "VISUAL CONTROLS" can be selected at bottom of page. Then selecting "HIDDEN" for the Slide and Receiver shows an excellent (IMO) rendering of what's happening at the rear of the RSA. Appears that the top "face" of the front lug actually comes in contact with the rear of the RSA when the slide/barrel is in battery. If this animation is indeed accurate, I understand what's going on with my setup. Hope this proves beneficial..........