HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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3 minutes ago, George16 said:
Hogrider, yes it does. Here’s a pic:
Awesome view!
Now I remember your setup from previous posts!
Great job!
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7 minutes ago, motosapiens said:
I had never heard of eeman, but they appear to be the only source for po1/shadow2 slide stops right now. everyone is out of stock on the oem ones (cz custom, cgw, stoeger). I broke my TRS today just before leaving for A2 steel. Luckily I had a spare, but I figured I'd better get another spare, and a spare slide-stop as well, so I can just use a new slidestop for major matches, and the original for practice until it breaks.
OEM if you don't mind the weak value of the dollar and LONG shipping times............
https://www.ericgrauffelonlineshop.com/en/cz-shadow-2-orange/964-cz-slide-stop-shadow-2-.html
TBH, I would have no problems keeping the Eemann Tech unit as a spare when needed.
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3 minutes ago, Cuz said:
I always start out with 100% concentration, but then I drift…
try ear plugs with your safety glasses..............
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2 minutes ago, ChuckS said:
Nope. From the guidelines:
Advertising
The general forums are not for any advertising whatsoever.
Please do not advertise products or services for yourself or for others in your posts or your Signature, either with text, links, Avatars or images.
However, a non-linked, single line of text in your Signature stating "Team ______" is permitted.
"Group Buys" are not permitted on Brian's Forums. And WTB (Want To Buy) Posts are only permitted in the Classified Forums.Chuck:
Thanks for pointing out my infraction of the rules. Definitely not intentional.
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33 minutes ago, Cuz said:
This has the makings of a group buy…
Cuz:
Time to start a new thread under Dillon Reloading Equipment to see who's interested in the upcoming Dillon Automated Unit!
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At my age, having the option of various "sense" dies would definitely be a desired option for the Dillon Automation unit!
IMO, it makes "automation" truly automated!
Ok Mark! Time to get some detailed insider info!
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1 minute ago, Cuz said:
Thanks, I got to the range too late in the day to chrono the few I had, but since I was sighting in my red dot I ran some through when I was done and they were very accurate, but felt light in the Gen5 G34. When I switch my press back from processing to loading I’ll load up some more and chrono them before making any adjustments. I like the idea of being able to go between Precision Delta and the Montana Golds without changing anything.
One thing that really helps me switch a bullet if needed, is use of the Redding Pro Micrometer Seating Die and very thorough notes of my setting for each round for each pistol!
The hardest part of a switch is if the MBF requires resetting the flipper ramp and/or the dropper.
Once I finalize my bullet of choice between 125 JHP and 147 JHP, I'll load up enough to keep me busy then take the opportunity to try out some coated lead practice/backups.
Haven't tried the PDs; but Montana Gold makes a great product!
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3 minutes ago, Cuz said:
Damn, I don’t know if I would pick that up if I had a camera. My attention drift while reloading is close to horrendous. I start out ok, but then a cool tune comes on the radio, or I just start thinking about something else and zone out for the next 30 rounds or so.
I'm the opposite...........
Look at each powder drop on the 10" monitor which also yields a quick glance at the bullets dropping right side up and an occasional glance at the right side of the press/shellplate.
Guess my thinking is it DEMANDS 100% concentration from me!
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On 7/25/2021 at 5:44 PM, Sigarmsp226 said:
Cuz - How about I call Cousin Steve and tell him that you and Boom and I will be happy to be three Beta testing sites for Dillon’s new auto drive system they say they are about to release?
Mark:
Gladly be a beta tester here too!
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On 7/25/2021 at 10:53 AM, George16 said:
I recommend the endoscope. I actually have two of them. One is used for monitoring powder in the cases while the other camera is mounted underneath so I can see that each case has a primer in it. I had problems of cases not having primers and making a mess once I get in the hang of just pulling the handle.
There’s no way to feel a primer is getting installed on a case like the resistance felt on the 559/650/750 since the 1050/1100 primes on the downstroke.
My wife actually asked me how come I don’t automate and I told her I like pulling the handle better. At least it gives me something to do and I get my biceps and triceps worked out too
. I process a lot of .223 (at least 5k in each session) and I just enjoy pulling the handle. I also tear it apart for cleaning after each processing or loading session.
George:
I too use an endoscope to view the powder drop. Wondering if your primer view would show a clear pic of say, a primer that partially seated crooked and was smashed but still went through the press with no abnormal feedback in the handle, etc?
I loaded 600 9mm yesterday without any stoppages except component replenishment, and during my case gauging found a completed round that had one edge not fully seated and smashed flat against the case head. Federal Match SPP.
Thanks!
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On 7/23/2021 at 6:31 PM, ddc said:
I load with an Ammobot on an RL1100. I imagine that loading on a Mk7 is similar but have no experience there.
Also my experience is only with 9mm. I assume other pistol cartridges are similar. Rifle I have no experience with.
You are correct in suspecting that issues that would cause you to stop a manual lever pull will not be noticed by the Ammobot.
I run without sensors other than the low primer stop.
The Ammobot will not stop short of a situation which causes a hard stop, hard jam.
Some examples are:
1. An incomplete indexing of the shell plate. The Ammobot does not realize this and will not stop until the index pin hits the shell plate. The shell plate will eventually warp if this is not fixed.
2. Bullet falls over and lays sideways on top of case. Ammobot will not stop until the bullet is pushed sideways about halfway down the case. The case is obviously destroyed and the bullet is likely as well.
3. If for some reason a case is not aligned with it's corresponding die the Ammobot will happily attempt to cram it in there anyway.
All those scenarios will result in the Ammobot sensing an over torque issue and stopping but not until something significant has occurred.
The Ammobot and the RL1100 are amazingly tolerant of such abuse. Incomplete indexing is probably the number one issue I've had problems with and that is a RL1100 problem, not Ammobot. If the shoulder bolts which attach the index arm and the index roller get bent then the indexing is affected. Unfortunately they seem to eventually bend resulting in the indexing issues.
(My particular situation was exacerbated by an out of spec main shaft which Dillon eventually fixed although not under warrantly.)
With respect to cleaning: I've learned that one way to minimize issues is to keep the machine as clean as possible. I think about 5k is all I would consider loading before I tore the top end down completely, clean, lubed, reassemble.
Again all my experience is Ammobot but I'm guessing that Mk7 users have similar experiences especially if they are running without sensors.
Edited to add: One thing that will make your life much, much, simpler is going to a two pass strategy. I fought against that for about 10k rounds but eventually accepted the inevitable. Unsuccessful decapping can result in a lot of mess if you are loading powder at the same time. Getting that out of the way prior to a loading run is worth it's weight in gold.
ddc:
Do you think Dillon's upcoming version of the Ammobot will be worth waiting on vs going with the M7?
I too am considering automation; but don't want to give up that level of safety that comes from knowing the "feel" of your machine when pulling that handle.
Thanks!
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On 7/25/2021 at 4:21 PM, Cuz said:
Hey all, I'm just getting started on a couple of cases of 9mm Montana Gold 124gr JHP bullets and was wondering what you are all using for an OAL?
I just went through a few thousand of the Precision Delta 124gr JHP bullets loaded to 1.086" and had great results. Without any adjustments to the press, I loaded a handful of the MG bullets and they were about 1.09x". I can certainly load them like that and not have to worry about going back and forth between those two bullet brands as availability permits.
I shoot mostly Glocks, with an occasional STI, and Ruger PCC thrown into the mix. The plunk test isn't really a factor as just about any length will plunk. I do want to keep them under 1.125" to prevent any issues with the Taylor Freelance Goliath base pad I use for the PCC.
Anyway, I was just wondering what you were all loading to for OAL with this bullet. My only previous experience with Montana Gold was about 12 years ago when I shot .40 cal in Limited.
As a point of reference, I'm using 3.9gr of TiteGroup to get me anywhere from 129-135 PF depending on which Glock or the STI that I chrono.
Thanks,
-Cuz
Cuz:
FWIW, I was playing around with some 125 Zero JHP and JHP Conical to see what kind of OAL I would need for the Shadow 2 Orange. Both balanced out to 1.080" as my standard.
For my match load 147g Zero JHPs, I standardized on 1.125". Could have went longer..............
As others have stated, your barrel(s) are going to dictate the required OAL; and I can attest that most manufacturers will have different ogives that require finding that happy medium.
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After respectfully questioning the info I received above about being the same thing, heard back this morning with this:
QuoteSorry I'm wrong completely. Wasn't thinking straight the S2 has the wider frame same as the P01.P01 Slide Stop will work.Definitely helps narrow things down a bit..........
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5 hours ago, jejb said:
Good work on all your research. I'm fairly new to CZ and am just as confused as you are about what crosses between different models. What I can tell you for sure is that this Eemann Tech slide stop works in my S2 Orange:
https://dot40.net/product/slide-stop-with-thumb-rest-for-cz-shadow-2-black/
Yea, I knew Emann Tech had a replacement available since I also have several of their products in the pistol now. Excellent products and tools!
Thanks for your feedback!
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Since it has been recommended that I keep a "spare" Slide Stop handy, I have been on a mission to locate one for my Shadow 2 Orange. Couple of USA, well respected vendors, have confirmed that #0420008004 is the correct SKU for the original CZ item.
Eric Grauffel also confirmed that this is correct, and is shown on his site under Shadow 2 Orange specific parts:
https://www.ericgrauffelonlineshop.com/en/cz-shadow-2-orange/964-cz-slide-stop-shadow-2-.html
Patriot Defense further supports Eric's reference #0421-0081-41ND
https://patriotdefense.com/cz-slide-stop-p-01-shadow-2-compact-0420008004/
And I keep noticing that this same slide stop fit's the P-01 which I know nothing about............
To further my confusion, I was told that this specific slide stop is the "same thing":
But the footnotes and description state Not for Shadow 2............
More confusion comes in when searching CZC and CZ USA. I'm not sure these are the same:
https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/parts-from-diagram/cz-p01-slide-stop.html
https://shop.cz-usa.com/slide-stop-compatible-with-cz-models-p-01-40p-compact-400420008004.html
Anyone here that can definitively clear this up for this fairly new CZ owner?THANK YOU!
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19 hours ago, HesedTech said:
I know it’s not the answer you are looking for, but whenever I swap shell plates and or calibers I always verify everything. However, I believe the answer to you question is with an already setup head I have found the only minor change is the bullet seating and taper crimp dies. Sorry I can’t remember changing much else.
Something I always check for every loading run, regardless if I didn’t change a thing, is the powder drop. Just to make sure.
Also 9mm brass bases vary a lot in thickness between head stamps and more so than 223. The one thing I believe many fail to setup properly is the Swage hold down. Essentially the brass can’t move up as the swage punch presses into the pocket and it, the punch, can’t be set so high it bends it. If the Swage station fails to smooth out the crimp enough there will be issues with seating the primer.Hope this helps.
HT:
Yes, I was referring to an "already setup head"..........you knew!
TBH, I was guessing that along with checking/verifying the seat and crimp die, I'd need to recheck the swaging station and MBF powder funnel expansion. And like you and many others here, I always warm up the FX120i prior to a session; and do a few powder drops including a 10 drop average.
I am very meticulous when setting up all stations; especially the swage station. Right now I have the luxury of loading all Winchester, once fired, fully processed (w/roll sized) brass and feel fortunate that my process is running so smoothly. But I also recognize there is some inherent "flex" in the stock Dillon shell plate.........
Your info ALWAYS helps! Thank you!
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On 6/15/2021 at 7:53 AM, HesedTech said:
Swaging in 1050/1100.
I’ve had similar problems to many, inconsistent primer depth, damaged brass, etc…. The solution is simple, but defeats the single pass process.
Brass bases, can significantly differ in thickness. Setting the swage punch/holdown to a single head stamp will cause slight differences where the press ram stops, depending on the stamp. I also went to the TNT shell plate for 9mm and 223. They are a bit more robust and have less play in the slots.
I also use two pass processing, the first is to simply decap, swage and size the brass.
HT:
Did you find that swapping over to the TNT shell plate required going back and resetting dies, swage system, any primer hold down, etc?
Thanks!
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I too use the Everglades hold down die on my RL1100, and find my primer seating depths are very consistent!
One item that made setting up the Everglades die very easy was the AmmoBrass Swage Setter:
Of course it's perfect for setting up the swage system also!
Highly recommended!
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I have been searching for a spare SS for the S2 Orange, and finding the "original" CZ part has been non-existent in the US! Eric Grauffel has plenty in stock in FRANCE!
IMO, I would purchase an Eemann Tech part if the original CZ is unavailable!
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12 hours ago, Stevetford said:
I have a powder funnel that I believe is similar to the Mr. Bullet feeder made by Uniquetek. Makes for very easy bullet seating but neck tension is absolutely gone so it’s back in the package under my bench. I may go back and look at the Mr. Bullet funnel again.
Sizing dies are kind of hard to find right now, what others do you suggest besides the U die?It's a bit higher priced, but this Redding has been in use for MANY years and I've never had a problem with setback! IMO, one of the finest sizers on the market!
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012361584
Also, make sure you're using this particular funnel for regular (sized) 9mm bullets:
https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1582
When your sizing and funnel/expansion Powder Drop are set up correctly, these are the results you can expect from the MBF/UniqueTek/Photo Escape powder funnel:
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/205711-fix-for-shaving-lead-bullets/
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21 minutes ago, Guitarmageddon said:
Something else I've observed. The hodgdon site lists an extremely short OAL and very conservative powder estimate for those bullets. I've seen a plethora of posts on this forum speculating as to why that is. But if I am shooting these in a .356 barrel would some of that pressure be mitigated? GRT (Gordons reloading tool) has this exact projectile in their database and it simulates I could likely go a bit higher. I intend on loading them a little longer and with a little more powder than the 3.3gr of hp38 the load data recommends, at 1.069 oal.
Recently purchased my first CZ........a Shadow2 Orange..........and setting up reloads for this particular pistol/barrel was a huge CHALLENGE! I received a lot of great info from this Forum and from here:
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=100352.0
I think everyone will agree that the CZs have a short, precise chamber that will cause us to rethink our reloading habits! Of course, it's a European pistol and their specs are somewhat different.
In my research, the first thing I needed to determine was the preferred COAL for the bullets I was going to use/start with! This post will definitely help with that process:
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=103620.0
As an example, Blue Bullets sent me some samples of their two 147g coated lead offerings. When determining the MAX COAL for their "new" round nose offering, it averaged out to 1.125". For their standard 147g coated flat point profile, it averaged 1.136" as MAX.
I would highly recommend starting out with some FMJ or JHP bullets! And definitely determine the COAL that your barrel likes/prefers!
HTHs!
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6 hours ago, Cuz said:
thanks,do you know what the Dillon carbide sizing die and Lee standard size carbide die size at???
Turns out my U-die is in 40 cal from my Limited division shooting days, so if you want to sell the 9mm undersize die I’d be interested. Nobody seems to have them in stock.
Cuz:
I've got an inquiry sent to my inside tech at Dillon concerning the Dillon sizing die reduction; may be a day or so before I hear back. But I'll let you know ASAP. I have no idea on the Lee..........
Sorry, I sold my U-Die some time ago. All I have right now is a new Lee standard 9mm Carbide sizing die and a set of 14406 Dillon Dies.
Sorry. If I still had it I'd sure offer it to you!
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3 hours ago, Cuz said:
Hey George,I’m rereading this thread (again) and have a question.
On your processing toolhead, any reason why you wouldn’t swap the last two sizing does so that the Redding die goes first and the Lee undersize die for after that???
Would it put less strain on the press/brass to size it down in steps that way?
otherwise, in your config, why not skip the Redding sizing die altogether and just put the decapping pin in the undersize die?
I am asking because I’m considering multiple sizing/decapping steps in my processing setup and thought that sizing in steps from regular then undersize might be better.
but, I may also just be over analyzing things.
thanks.
As a side note..............
The Lee U-Die sizes -.003"; the Redding Titanium Carbide Die sizes -.002". According to Redding......
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32 minutes ago, BLUEPSTU said:
Thanks for the reply. If I end up purchasing one, I may be hitting you up for many information. Thanks again.
Always glad to help!
Slide Stop ??? for Shadow 2 Orange
in CZ
Posted
Thanks George!