HOGRIDER
-
Posts
1,794 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by HOGRIDER
-
-
After some more thorough testing, it appears this barrel maxes out with the Coated 147g FP at ~1.155" COAL. So, I decided to load up 50 at 1.140" with 3.2g of N320..............
Now, to get through another week of quarantine!
Thanks for everyone's feedback, and I'll report back ASAP.
-
41 minutes ago, nxfedlt1 said:
If so, do I need any other parts?
The dillon ones are oos so figured I can just buy this for now.
Thanks
Yes, according to many users sharing their experiences............
The Stock Dillon RL1100:
https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_43&products_id=379
The CNC Shooter that also works on the RL1100:
https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_24&products_id=229
-
2 hours ago, GringoBandito said:
I use n320 and 147's almost exclusively. 3.1-3.2 is a good load for USPSA with an OAL of 1.120. Be sure to plunk test before you commit to the length.
3.1 and 147 make 130PF out of my S2
Gringo:
Thanks for the feedback! This STI has a generous chamber and will plunk to 1.150" if needed.
-
1 hour ago, zzt said:
If you are planning on shooting bullseye, you will likely need a faster load. In my experience with 9mm 147, you need 950-1000 fps for bullseye type accuracy. At that rate you are better off shooting your 45 in the Centerfire leg. Most of the bullseye shooters I know shooting 9mm in the Centerfire leg use 115s or 124s fast. 124s being more widely used.
If you are just out for USPSA or Steel, you don't need that kind of accuracy, so 130-135 PF is plenty. I'll also say the GB must have a fast barrel.
zzt:
Guess I'm one of those odd ones that like Bullseye accuracy (or close to it) but only enjoy local Steel and occasional USPSA..............my goal is to try and get good accuracy out of some 147fp coated since I have a plentiful supply. Now that the Stac P is my primary shooter, I'm having to redo my load development since I walked away from the Glock for all but CCW.
Have always read of using the longest COAL that the particular chamber likes, but the finest accuracy with this pistol have been with AE 147FMJ-FPs traveling at 1000fps! And these average ~1.125" COAL.
Right now I have no idea what this 1:16 twist barrel will like using 147fp Coated bullets w/ N320. Not being lazy to do my homework; just the shooting season is slowly coming to an end. This barrel will easily do 1.150" COAL if needed..............
Thanks!
-
On 10/29/2020 at 6:01 PM, ddc said:
I'm not sure if you were talking to me... but my experience is only with the 1100 and a 650 before that.
I've got friends with 1050s and have observed them on a number of occasions.
My feeling is that the 1100 is an slight upgrade from the 1050 but not a "big upgrade".
I think the main design difference is the bottom end is derived from the older RL1050 which is considered more robust.
Day to day operation is identical. Same number of stations. Same priming system. Same case feeder.
Slight redesign of the primer station which makes it easier to extract a case from that position.
If you reload rifle you are limited to 308 on the 1100. 1050 will do 30'06.
Same experience here.....................
ddc: you nailed it IMO!
-
While perusing the Bullseye-L forum, I came across this post by Texasref that really peaked my interest since loading some 147FP Coated lead is next on my agenda for the STI Stac P.
QuoteI have shot a lot of 9mm in all different weights with different powders. I'm as new to "Bullseye" as you can get. But have worked some on the accuracy end of things with this round.
One thing I have found to be true, you have to "spin" that bullet. Any velocities that fall short will tend to tumble the bullet. When that happens you'll need to increase you powder charge.
I shoot nothing but 147 FP coated bullets now since most of my shooting is indoors.
The diameter should be .356", which is about standard. You can get .357" for better bullet/barrel contact if you ask.
The real problem with 9mm is that your dealing with a tapered case so it's difficult to eliminate the variables that effect accuracy unless it's new brass.
Anyway here's a formula that you can use as a starting point.
All 147FP bullets.
Load as long as the chamber will allow. Drop a dummy round in and spin. If it does not spin shorten until it does.
Don't forget to crimp the case. Some say you don't need to but I always have.
Powder charge 3.2gns.
Powders: Titegroup VVN320 Alliant Sport Pistol
The above will make 135 power factor if your into USPSA and such.As I have N320 in the PM right now, and plenty of 147FP Coated, thought I'd load up some sample rounds to test as soon as I'm out of "quarantine"............
Anyone use or have validated a similar load?
Thanks!
-
Might help..................
-
1 minute ago, Chapo said:
In my set up, I drop the powder and observe the primer then I have a powder cop die then seat and then crimp.
So, your using a combination seat/crimp die in Station #8..............good to hear you feel it important to monitor the powder drops also.
I'm in that camp that always uses separate seat and crimp dies.
-
Maybe I'm missing something here.....................but have you members of this thread ever considered if your getting the correct powder drops? Do you feel that the correct amount of powder being dispensed holds the same importance as to whether a primer has been inserted in a case during production?
Has the Dillon powder measure now become 100% reliable?
Just wondering....................
-
9 hours ago, eboadway said:
I have never had an unprimed case, but do recommend an endoscope to check for a good powder charge (I have a bullet feeder).
Same here!
IMO, if the 1050/1100 primer system is CLEAN and ADJUSTED CORRECTLY, having an unprimed case that's directly related to the primer assembly will not happen.
For those running automated machines, I can't remember hearing of one using any device to verify primers are inserted..............
-
4 hours ago, Chapo said:
An issue I’ve been having with my 1100 is that sometimes the slide won’t provide a primer and by the time powder is dropped it starts to spill creating a mess on the plate. Is there an aftermarket primer sensor that will alert if no primer is inserted in the case? I know ammobot and MK have something similar. But I’m looking for a stand alone sensor for this.
After watching this guy's ENTIRE video, and inspecting my RL1100, I figured he has an endoscope spotting primers for him. I'm thinking he had it inserted in the frame hole that's just below the primer slide. Should definitely show if a primer is IN the slide; but doesn't guarantee it gets seated in the brass.
From what I've read, the Ammobot and Mk7 probes are checking for primer pocket size and being empty, or stopping the machine when the primer level gets too low.
IMO, making sure the primer magazine cap is loose/not even snug will help primer feeding! And keeping the primer slide clean and properly adjusted will also promote trouble free priming.
-
9 hours ago, mstamper said:
Did a reload session yesterday and I had 17 primers / rounds not load properly out of a run of 400 primers.
The primers were either crushed in the Primer slide on my s1050 or were seated oddly in the primer pocket.
When the primers are crushed in the slide it leave primer paste in the slide and jams the press. I have to empty all the stations and pull the white primer guard to pull the damaged primer.
I cleaned the primer shuttle and the channel it slides on in the press and after a few rounds it did the same thing. I checked the primer tube tip and it is fine.
The lever that moves the shuttle appears to be fine especially since I got the majority of rounds loaded properly.
any thoughts on what I need to look at to fix this?
Primers are too expensive right now to have this level of failure to load properly
IIRC, the Federal NT brass all use crimped primers. I would definitely be checking the pockets of the NT headstamps to see if they are not getting correct swage at Station #3...........
These will help identify any questionable brass you may come across:
https://ballistictools.com/store/small-and-large-primer-pocket-gauges
-
I would always have a good estimate of how many rounds I was going to load, and put more than enough cases in the feeder and more than enough primer tubes filled and waiting.
Cases are easy to estimate by weighing (if necessary) before dumping in the feeder, and always have more than enough primers ready to drop in the magazine once the alarm goes off if your not done loading. Excess primers are very easy to eject on the XL650.
The XL650, by design, should not run out of primers if following good loading procedures............
-
1 hour ago, boatdoc173 said:
any idea where to find just a seating die from Hornady? redding pro series?
all I can find is complete sets.
Here:
https://www.amazon.com/Redding-Reloading-Competition-Handgun-Seating/dp/B000PW6548
https://www.grafs.com/catalog/product/productId/14741
-
Mark:
Great to see you posting here with some very helpful info!
-
Clean the primer tubes clean by sending a wad of paper towel soaked in brake clean through them -with the black low primer rod. And don’t forget the main tube inside the assembly as well. The tubes get dirty with priming compound over time.
+++1111
Great advice!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro -
Like AzShooter above, Federal Match is all I"ve used for many years on the XL650 and now the RL1100.
Never an issue in 9mm or 45acp!
-
9 hours ago, ltdmstr said:
Tried this with polymer grip STI 20+ years ago and basically had the same results. Never could get the grip secure in the rest. If I were doing this now, I'd swap the polymer grip for a metal one.
This sounds like a great idea.........................only I don't have an old "metal" grip laying around to swap out..............
Thanks!
-
I happen to find a local shooter last year that has a decent setup behind his house for using his Ransom Rest. He's been a long time Bullseye Competitor and has only used his rest for 1911 style pistols. I purchased a set of grip panels for the STI/McCormick widebody and we used it with (what I thought) pretty good success. Of course he did the setup and operation.
Fast forward to this year and we decide to get together again to test some of my RL1100 ladder loads. Don't think we ever got the STI settled just right as results were all over the place. Michael Ransom shared that I should be treating it like a polymer framed pistol (Glock) and to make sure not to overtighten as it can cause less than desirable results. Said to make sure the mag will drop freely and there was free travel on the trigger return. And that A and C will generally be tighter than B.
Trying this gives me the impression that the pistol is just not secured enough in the grip panels to keep the pistol from stringing/poor results. Also, there's only a few threads on the thumb screws when it's "snug" in the grip panels.
Any seasoned Ransom Rest users here that can shed some light on the CORRECT way to set up a stock/polymer gripped STI 2011?
I sure would appreciate it!
-
10 hours ago, chgofirefighter said:
Just I actually received it but I have not used it since I modified the Lee expander die and replace the internall with the DAA expander and it has been working well thus far. So I haven't gotten an opportunity to truly test the Redding die "yet" there's a youtube video about the Redding, Lyman expander dies. I do believe the Redding was improved upon.
Hey Robert!
Wondering if your planning on using the Redding Premium Expander on your RL1100, and if so, what station? Thought you might be using it at Station #4 with your CNC toolhead...........
Looking forward to your user report; and would like to see some closeups of your CNC toolhead and how it clears the Primer System; especially the Lever Arm Bracket and the base of the Primer Feedbody Assembly.............
Thank you Sir!
-
3 hours ago, impact said:
I could possibly even remachine the powder transfer unit (fancy name) on my lathe that came with the dillon, but it's possibly surface hardened and when I get to the material beneath it possibly won't last as long...
These are being built to the same specifications as his original design.............according to Rick Koskela.
https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/powder-funnel.html
https://uniquetek.com/product/T1736
Had one remachined to .357" and repolished. Works like a charm!
-
7 hours ago, OptimiStick said:
Thx. Bench is not level front to back
That's ok...........whatever amount out of plumb your bench is, then use that same bubble level for your target of the outer magazine.........
-
5 hours ago, impact said:
thanks again everybody!
So my Dillon funnel/expander measures around .352 in OD, which (without considering springback of the brass) would result in at least 4" neck tension. With rifles you'd typically want around .002", and thats with jacketed bullets.
What came to my mind is using a universal expander mandrel die to finetune expansion. I've got one from Sinclair. What about that? - Yeah, I'm using no bullet feeder right now... I'd kinda always wanted to but then instead invested the money in bullets, powder and primers... So I've got a station left to work with.
edit: I just realized the mandrel die I'm using is good for .17 to .338 caliber, there's a seperate for .35 to .50. But maybe worth the investment. .356 and .357 mandrels seem readily available.
The linked PTU's are also interesting, especially should I ever acutally upgrade to a bullet feeder.
To those who have tried, how fine is the line between having too much restriction, swaging down bullets, and having to little, giving erratic combustion and bullet setback from the lack of neck tension? What are you willing to accept in swaging down? .001"? less?
I'm afraid I can't shoot milk jugs at my range. One Is more the bullseye type shooting range and the oder is a indoor IPSC/USPSA type shooting range.
But I probably can make a mold, and I for sure got some air rifle pellets laying around somewhere... what OD should I strive for? .358?
Have you considered using the Mister Bullet Feeder Powder Funnel?
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/205711-fix-for-shaving-lead-bullets/
-
cool Item.
where was this when I was doing my hunt for a powder funnel?
I made three before I got one I liked to keep from swaging the fat bottoms.
the one on the right is closer to what I made.
I made the post as problem solution advice, I think I could have been more clear about that.
I should have directed my post to the OP as I’m sure many have suffered under-expansion with oversized bullets.....[emoji106][emoji6]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
RL 1100 Die setup
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Since many here dislike the powder check dies for their tendency to scatter powder from the probes, this is another route you can consider..............