HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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29 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said:
Sold my shadow 2 and forget which bullet I was using when I had it.
For an SP01 , an 85, a CZ compact and a couple 75's - SNS 147 TC loaded to 1.15 works well for me. Apparently that bullet does not have a 'fat shoulder'. At shorter lengths I was getting 1 or 2 ftf's per match. I've never seen the need to touch any of the barrels for any of the bullets I've tried, but I am sure that folks who report that some bullets cause problems in CZ's are not just making that up.
IHAVE:
Thanks for that info!
Is this the 147TC profile you speak of?
https://www.snscasting.com/new-9mm-147-grain-flat-point-red-coated-500ct/
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1 hour ago, twodownzero said:
I haven't either, until I bought a CZ. But I knew before I even bought it that their chambers are ridiculous, and mine was off to @MemphisMechanicfor reaming before I shot even a single round from it. Angus is also just completely wrong; a 150 grain RN bullet at SAAMI max would be .090" from the slide closing and I do not think it's safe to load them short enough to chamber (and you will not find published data for loading big, heavy bullets that short). A friend of mine had to back his load down 20% to load that short, and even then, a tiny change in COAL could result in dangerous pressures. No thanks! He's also wrong about screwing up the headspace--a throating reamer does not touch the headspace reference surface. I know there are people there content with shooting 115s, or loading heavy bullets at 1.080", but for me, having loaded for a ton of different 9mm pistols, there's just no reason for CZ to insist on special snowflake ammo that is one minor bullet setback away from a kaboom.
two:
FWIW, when I first got the S2O, I had a match coming up and had not started reloading for it yet. Had a bunch of the Federal 150g Syntecs I had purchased for the wife, and a club member recommended I shoot them at the match as they were a fully approved USPSA load right out of the box. I did, and they shot/functioned very well! Accuracy was very good! What struck me as odd, was the OALs of this particular batch averaged 1.115"! A few boxes I received recently averaged 1.125".
I understand your comments on loading short and all the possibilities of (major) failures that are very real!
I have a sample pack of BB 147g FPs I'm going to try at 1.120". I also want to try and secure a sample pack of the same bullet but with a .356" diameter. Plan on calling Blue on Tuesday to see how long a wait I would have on some.
Thanks again for your comments!
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9 minutes ago, slowhands said:
I was running .356 SNS bullets first, so I stuck with that size in BB. Both SNS 135gr RN and BB 135gr FP are very accurate in my S2. I don't know if .355 would have been less accurate, but some S2 barrels apparently don't like them as much.
slow:
Thanks for sharing your details! I so have some 147g Acme and Bayous that are .356". Also have some Bayou 135g coated at .356".
I think I'll load a few of the Acme and the Blues, and see what diameter the S2 prefers. I did notice that Blue offers their popular 9mm bullets in .355" AND .356"!
Thanks again!
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1 hour ago, George16 said:
It all depends on the CZ model. For comparison, my TSO and Czechmate barrels can accommodate up to 1.155” OAL using the same type of bullet (124 Gr PD, 125 Gr BB RN, RMR 147 TCFP) but my shadow 2 barrel can only accommodate up to 1.110” for the PD 124/BB 125 RN. For the RMR 147 TCFP, max was 1.104” OAL.
I didn’t like how short I would have to load the 147 so I decided to just use the Precision Delta 124 JHP since that the bullet I use the most for my guns and PCC anyway.
Keep in mind also that the shadow 2 barrels are hardened compared to the TSO/czechmate which are not hardened. I had @MemphisMechanicream my czechmate barrels so I can load up to 1.170” OAL and there wasn’t any change in accuracy at all while keeping my shadow 2 barrel stock.
George:
Thanks for your detailed explanation! Sure helping me to learn the aspects of reaming (or not)!
Always a pleasure to read your posts!
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On 9/3/2021 at 5:49 PM, slowhands said:
147gr RN Blue Bullets didn't work well in my Shadow 2. The OAL is just too short, and a lot of rounds fail the case gauge. 135gr TCs work great, though. I order them in .356. Not sure if it makes a difference, but some CZs don't like .355 coated bullets and it's the same price for either size.
If you really want 147gr bullets, I've had decent luck with SNS. But in my gun the 135gr bullets (both SNS and BB) are a bit more accurate and consistent, and I can't perceive any difference in recoil between the two weights at the same power factor anyway.
slow:
I forgot to ask.............what diameter bullets did your S2 prefer for consistency and accuracy? The .355" or .356"?
Thanks!
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On 9/3/2021 at 11:52 PM, slowhands said:
I'd have stuck with the 147s if I could have loaded them that long. According to my notes, the push test results for that bullet in my S2 were in the 1.09" to 1.1" range, so I was loading them around 1.08".
slow:
I could go to 1.125" with the Blue FPs, but I think I'll try a small ladder with them at 1.120" and see how they shoot and function.
Thanks for your feedback!
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5 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:
That popped up on my Facebook account. Just sharing.
IHAVE:
I saw this also; and decided I'd contact Angus about barrel reaming.
Thanks for your feedback!
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On 9/3/2021 at 11:39 PM, twodownzero said:
Your concerns are unfounded. Reaming your barrel to fit SAAMI spec ammo is not going to change the accuracy one bit.
two:
Since I've never owned a pistol that needed the barrel reamed, I guess I'm a bit ignorant on the benefits of doing so. And since this is my first CZ, that I love to shoot, I thought I'd run the idea of reaming by Angus for his opinion. He replied:
QuoteIt’s not about reaming the chamber it’s about altering the lead into the rifling............. It the ammo feeds then don’t worry. Shadow 2 barrels have a coating that destroys reamer in cutting one barrel. I suggest loading shorter until they chamber..........
QuoteThen check they function at that length. Or use better bullets.
Guess I'll leave this barrel as is for the time being; but I appreciate your opinion and feedback!
Thanks!
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Everyone:
I forgot to mention that the BB's I have are sized .355". Of course this sizing works perfect with the Zero 147 JHPs that makeup my match loads. However, when using a coated lead bullet, do the CZs normally prefer a .356" sizing or will the .355' Blue Bullets produce great results?
Thanks again!
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2 hours ago, Nathanb said:
You’ll need to ream your barrel and load super short. I have two shadow 2s and one required even shorter loads
Nathan:
Modifying this particular barrel is just not an option.
I hope to find a suitable coated lead bullet that can use a COAL I can trust and get acceptable results with.
Thanks for your feedback!
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1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Hog - To save you a little time and a lot of money you can send it to me. I picked up a new set of grinding, polishing, and buffing attachments for my Dremel today…I can fix it so that a 2.0” bullet will fit it…Just trying to help….…Mark
Mark!
LOL! I'm really glad to hear that you have mastered the Dremel process to that level of perfection!
Now I feel confident that with your new tools and level of OCD, you'll have that Redding TC die polished to perfection! Just don't forget to use a little One Shot on those super clean cases!
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3 hours ago, twodownzero said:
Send your barrel to @MemphisMechanic to get that corrected. Mine is sitting at home in my mailbox right now. I never fired a single round through the gun before getting the barrel reamed. I will be loading the 147s in the 1.145-1.150" range. In fact, I will be shooting blue bullets tomorrow morning at a USPSA match.
two:
While I can fully appreciate you having your barrel reamed for that standard OAL range, I can no way justify modifying the barrel in my S2 Orange when it's producing groups like this with my reloads!
These match reloads have an OAL of 1.125" and will work just fine in the S2O, and all my other 9mm pistols. I can go with an OAL of 1.120" with the BB 147g FP, and definitely look forward to your feedback!
THANKS!
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4 hours ago, slowhands said:
147gr RN Blue Bullets didn't work well in my Shadow 2. The OAL is just too short, and a lot of rounds fail the case gauge. 135gr TCs work great, though. I order them in .356. Not sure if it makes a difference, but some CZs don't like .355 coated bullets and it's the same price for either size.
If you really want 147gr bullets, I've had decent luck with SNS. But in my gun the 135gr bullets (both SNS and BB) are a bit more accurate and consistent, and I can't perceive any difference in recoil between the two weights at the same power factor anyway.
slow:
One of my reasons for gathering some feedback here was so that I wouldn't be wasting a lot of time and consumables trying something that just may not work in the CZ! And I have no objections to trying some 135g rounds; just going down another rabbit hole and trying a weight/brand bullet that seems to be extremely popular with the USPSA crowd.
As you and others have noted, the CZs require a shorter OAL; and what I found doing a thorough max OAL test was the BB 147RN maxxed out at 1.125" while the 147FP could go to 1.136". I always reduce my COAL by .015"; so basically I would do 1.120" on the FP and 1.110" on the RN. I just not warming up to the new RN profile............
Thanks for your feedback!!
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Shooting Production with the S2 Orange, and have an excellent Match load using N320 and Zero 147 JHP.
Would like to develop a practice load using the N320 and a lead coated bullet. Or a plated bullet ......though I have NO experience with them. Since The Blue Bullets is the #1 reloaded bullet in the 2020 USPSA Equipment Survey, I ordered a sample pack of the 147 FP and RN. Not really impressed with their new RN profile plus I would have to seat it .015" shorter to clear in the CZ barrel. And I have shot neither through the CZ; just don't want to waste time and precious components if the CZs don't like the BBs.
Any SATISFIED shooters here competing and/or practicing with Blue Bullets in a CZ platform?
Thanks for any feedback!
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George, moto:
Do you guys prefer a certain supplier's recoil springs for the CZ?
CZ-USA/CZ Custom?
CGW?
Thanks!
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moto:
I appreciate your experienced feedback! And I understand your position on the importance of making sure I have a solid, proper grip!
THANK YOU!
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1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Hog - I do not have any of the tools necessary to fix this but I do have me a good Dremel tool. I wonder if I could take some of the polishing compound that came with my Dremel and one of those soft cloth adapters and give it a try. If that does not work then I could try the wooden dowel and sandpaper on a drill strapped in a vice that is bolted to a bench in my neighbors barn and give that a try…..If I do I will start with 400 or finer paper and I would be spinning the dowel rather than the die….Might give this a try this weekend - I do not think I can make it any worse than what it is today….
Thanks for sharing this fix. I will let you know how this turns out…If it makes it worse I will just put my Dillon TC die back on to the press. It was what I was using before I purchased the Redding die…..
Sig:
I think it will be well worth your effort.
Looking forward to hearing your results.
DirtBag: Sorry for high-jacking your thread..........
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3 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
Pealandco - Yes Sir - Mine also has a slight resistance when I am retracting the case out. It is not so bad as to cause powder spillage because I am only loading 3.5grs of 231 powder so the case is not quite half full but it is an irritating “thump” and Boom your question/point is a valid one because that is what I thought was happening with my set up but it was actually the Redding crimp die. I even took the die apart and cleaned it good to no avail. Now I take a small Q-Tip with a drop of oil on it and insert it up into the die every 50 rounds or so to reduce the resistance in hopes that after several thousand rounds it will stop. So far it continues to “thump” just like a sticking powder funnel does on some machines.
If it continues I will drop my Dillon crimp die in that I know works because I tried it for about 50 rounds and the “thump” went away. Hoping this $90.00 Redding die will correct this issue (thinking in my mind it might just need a little more break in time). Hate to have it sitting in my extra die box for what I paid for it.
I am also giving my cases a light misting of One Shot before I start loading so my cases have a light coating on them…..
Hey Mark!
Saw your post and wanted to share what fixed my Redding TC die that was having the same issues! Got this info from my friend at Redding:
QuoteDo you happen to have a lathe or have a buddy with a lathe or even a drill press with a large chuck? if you did, you could chuck the inner sleeve and spin it and give it a good polish with some 320 (or finer) paper on a wooden dowel. I believe that a good polish and maybe work the mouth a bit to give it a good radius would make all the difference in the world. The inner sleeves are hardened so it might take a little elbow grease.
His reasoning on why they stick:
QuoteBecause the sleeve travels downward with the ram stroke and doesn’t release the case until the ram is a fair amount down, it will always hang up a little bit. It’s not normally as noticeable with a standard style crimp because the case is released from the die as soon as the ram travels downward, plus the press gives maximum mechanical advantage at the very top of its stroke.
After following his advise while being very cautious with the polishing, I eliminated 99% of the sticking from the TC die. I normally don't like or recommend having to work on expensive dies such as these, but a little bit of effort made a huge difference! Of course, I lube the cases with Hornady One Shot which I'm sure helps also.
Hope this helps!
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I went through something similar when a defective piece of brass (flash hole) slipped into my RL1100 and caused a stoppage at Station #3. I'm using the Redding Titanium Carbide sizing die. Decided to contact a friend at Redding, and he sent this info in an email:
QuoteWe’ve been hearing reports from folks that some pistol brass manufacturers have been sneaking small flash holes in their brass. It sounds like that may have been what happened as it pinches the decap pin in the flash holes and pulls it out of the decap rod. This makes removing the case from the shellholder difficult sometimes. To combat this I’ve been recommending that folks try a small benchrest size decap pin. This usually alleviates the issue.
QuoteIt started with Speer headstamped brass and spread to other headstamps afterword though it seems intermittent (which is kind of strange). The pins are tough little buggers so I wouldn’t worry to much about needing spares.........
Definitely supports the great info from AHI!
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George16:
Thanks for your helpful information!
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After following the previous post concerning which recoil spring for an S2 w/SRO, I wanted to see how the experienced competitors actually determined their optimal recoil spring weight.
As a "renewed" USPSA Production competitor shooting my first CZ, a S2 Orange, I have been using a 10# CGW recoil spring with a 11.5# hammer spring. Have an exceptionally accurate reload using Zero 147g JHP, N320; and averaging 132-133 PF.
In the previous post, it seemed most were using an 11# recoil spring!
Wanting to optimize my sight recovery with the correct recoil spring, I'm wondering how those seasoned shooters determined their perfect spring weight? I realize grip/PF/etc can affect the ending spring weight; but is a video recording of the actual recoil of the pistol during, say a Bill Drill, the easiest way? Or would it be primarily determined by time/splits?
Thanks for your feedback!
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3 hours ago, DewarsH2O said:
I just bought a TSO in 9mm. This is my 6th CZ, also own a Czechmate, A01LD, Shadow Orange, plus a couple 75's. Gun was shipped to my FFL, did the paperwork and headed home. Once I got it out of the box to clean it, I realized the frame to slide fit is super tight, when you rack it it binds before it will move forward to put a round into battery. Cleaned it super good, light oil, no improvement. Loaded a magazine with S&B 124g took two tries to load a round, gun fires, then the slide binds before it can load a second round. did not want to fire it anymore as obviously this is not right.
Also this is the first higher end CZ I have bought that did not have the test fire paper target in the box, which makes me wonder if it was shot at the factory.
Is there something stupid I am missing before I contact the selling dealer for help?
I would first strip the barrel and recoil spring assembly out of the slide, lube it well, and just cycle the slide on the frame back and forth to see if it's simply the tight, hand fitting of the slide to frame. If that doesn't identify the problem, then add in the barrel only and try again. Finally put the recoil spring assembly back together and see if there's any component binding.
IMO, after experiencing the same thing with my new S2 Orange, you just need to shoot the gun! If it hangs going back into battery, just bump the back of the slide and fire again. Of course this is after well lubing the slide, frame, and barrel contact mating surfaces
You will appreciate the tight fitment of the slide to frame once it wears in a bit! These are premium, hand fit pistols!
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1 hour ago, ezra650 said:
Maybe it was the size/type of zip tie I had. I never could get them to cinch down enough and evenly.
ezra:
IIRC, I just used common 8" zip ties that probably came from Lowes.......zero issues as they've been on there over a year now!
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10 hours ago, HesedTech said:
I’m sorry to hear that, didn’t know they changed the base that much in the 1100. I have the 1050 with an Ammobot drive and the ties work very well.
Ties are working just fine on the RL1100!
Blue Bullets in a CZ Shadow2?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted