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HOGRIDER

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Posts posted by HOGRIDER

  1. 1 hour ago, HesedTech said:

    No you weren't.

     

    With an Ammobot drive I load 9mm at 1600 rnds an hour and could go faster, but found this is the most reliable pace. At this speed using various powders ranging from very fine, like Clean Shot and Sport Pistol to TG with zero (or at least not noticeable) spillage issues with the Dillon measure.  The only spillage issue happens when the press gets a jam, normally due to brass that failed to slide properly into the shell plate, and it comes to a halt, thus throwing powder out of the open cartridge.

     

    I have polished everything possible, the top and bottom off the bar, the inside of the main funnel and the MBF funnel exterior to make everything run smooth.

     

    Have I had issues? Yes, only due to normal wear of running it hard. The main body has galled a couple of times where the bar slides causing a jam, but that's about it. I would estimate I've run close to 40K or more (I don't keep count) with this particular powder measure.

     

    Point being, you should be able to pull the handle as fast as humanly possible and expect very little powder spillage. Anything else means there's a problem with the unit or setup.

     

    Again it's really hard to diagnose anything over an internet filled with opinions. If you haven't done so already, call Dillon and they will send you new parts.

     

    BTW here's a good video of how the 1100 can run fast using good old pull power:

     

     

     

    And HesedTech shows GT loading at a good clip using CFE Pistol.  Don't think he mentioned it, but he's probably using around 4gr of powder with that 147g bullet.......

     

     

  2. 1 hour ago, Cuz said:

    Ok, I have more information.  Apparently, this may be a "loading rate" issue.

    When I cleaned everything up, and pulled the handle very slowly to watch where the powder was falling, there really wasn't any, at least not for the 30 or so rounds I watched before I got bored.  I would say my rate was basically 6 seconds for a full cycle of the handle.  That's 10 rounds/minute, which is 600 rounds/hour.  While that may sound like a decent clip I can promise you it was painfully slow.

     

    So, I started timing different rates and observing powder spillage.  I increased my rate to 20 rounds/minute (3 seconds/cycle) and still had virtually no spillage.  So, then I set the timer again and cycled like I normally load and it turns out I was pulling the handle at a rate of about 40 rounds/minute, and the spillage was back.  Maybe I was just going WAY TOO FAST.

     

    So, now I'm wondering, for you manual loaders, how many rounds per minute is your normal loading pace?  I did this by setting a timer for 1:03 so I had 3 seconds to hit the start button, and then grab the press handle and wait for the timer to hit 1:00 before pulling the handle.

     

    I'm not asking you how many rounds you can load in a minute, but rather, I would like to know how many rounds per minute is your normal loading pace.  It would also help if you let us know what you have for a press.  I guess the rate would be different on different presses.

     

    On my RL550, the fastest I could ever go was about 400 rounds in an hour.

     

    I will say, that with the bullet feeder full, and a couple hundred cases in the case feeder it is HARD to go slow.

    Cuz:

    I have to ask................are you going faster than our own member chgofirefighter?

     

    https://youtu.be/Gj00nOLqIX0

     

    https://youtu.be/vzuQd0j9bWE

     

    The second video gives good views of the round coming out of the powder station and bullet feeder station without a lot of spillage.  He's also using the Arredondo shell stabilizer:

     

    https://www.arredondoaccessories.com/product/shell-stabilizer-3/

     

    👍

     

  3. 1 hour ago, Cuz said:

     

    What size are those zip ties?

    And, what exactly do they do?  Stabilize the case between stations?

    Is that the only two places you use them?

     

    Thanks.

     

    Cuz:

    These are from Lowe's:  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-100-Pack-8-in-Cable-Ties/50005722

     

    They may also be available at WalMart.  As shown they are 8" long; and measure about .177"/4.5mm wide.

     

    IMO, the only place for powder spillage is between station #5 and #6; but the ties also help stabilize the case with a bullet sitting on top from #6 to #7 for seating.

     

    As depicted in my pic above, I only use them between #5 and #7.

    Cable Ties.png

  4. Cuz:

    I think AHI is spot on with his assessment.  Where's the leak coming from?  And with the amount of powder accumulating on the shell plate you showed above, it should be easy to see the leak!

     

    IMO, with all your years of using the 550 which I'm thinking uses the same or very similar powder measure as our 1100s, I can't really see this type of spillage coming from the powder drop if it's set up correctly!

     

    Video a run and you'll see it!

     

    Good luck!

  5. So I finally found some time to work up a ladder with the .356" sized 147g FPs with N320.  While at it, I decided to work up a small ladder using the 135g TCs.  Settling on a 1.120" OAL for both rounds, they hand cycled perfectly in the S2 Orange. 

     

    Not being real familiar with the 135TCs, I loaded a test batch with 3.6g (N320)and another test batch with 3.7gs based on what info I could search for here on the forum.

     

    Question:  For those using the 135 TCs in your Shadow2 platforms, does it sound like I'm in the ball park for a 132-133 power factor?

     

    Appreciate all the help!

     

    :)

  6. 2 hours ago, Filb said:

    I just got my new S2 Orange. I don't see any info in the book about what springs are in the gun and what the springs are that came with it. Plan on running 115gr and 124 gr ammo. Should I call CGW and ask get springs there? I think I red the springs that came with it are for plus p like the NATO rounds.

    I too have the S2 Orange, and I would recommend you shoot the pistol as is before changing any springs; especially the recoil springs.  Depending on your primary purpose for shooting (competition, range gun, fun), you can then decide what spring(s) are best for your intended purpose.  CGW has a pretty good read for helping with recoil springs:

     

    https://cajungunworks.com/how-to-select-the-proper-recoil-spring/

     

    Probably best to call CZ USA for definite info on what springs come equipped from the factory.

     

    👍

  7. 43 minutes ago, Cuz said:

    Why would you have to space out the cam bolt?  It looks long enough to work just fine without the ratchet. 

    Also, this pic of my failed cam bolt might help.  

     

    It was originally installed way too tight, and the allen recess cracked by trying to remove it.  The outer rim is cracked in three places!

     

    Failed Cam Bolt2.png

    Failed Cam Bolt.png

  8. 35 minutes ago, Cuz said:

    Why would you have to space out the cam bolt?  It looks long enough to work just fine without the ratchet. 

    Cuz:

    IMO, these cam bolts are not the "quality" that they used to be.  I wanted the solid part of the bolt (next to the shank) as close to the cam plate assembly as possible; at least to where the stock ratchet arm spaced it.  

     

    Hope this makes sense!  ;)

     

    Plus a pic:

    Cam Bolt Backplate.png

  9. 36 minutes ago, highxj said:

    Just curious, are you guys removing the ratchet itself? When I set mine up, I removed the locking tab rather than the ratchet, because I didn't have anything handy to properly space out the cam bolt back to where it should be. But the ratchet itself is a PITA when manipulating the toolhead etc. I need to find some proper washers or machine a spacer for the cam bolt...

    high:

    This worked perfect for me...........

     

    https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285434-issues-with-rl1100/?do=findComment&comment=3181751

     

    👍

  10. 31 minutes ago, Cuz said:

    I definitely hear you guys, but I’m coming from 20+ years on a rl550 and never had auto-indexing. It kinda scares me a little, but I may have to remove it as I’m wasting too much time just getting it to work. 

    Cuz:

    IMO, remove the ratchet as that will be one less thing you have to worry about!

     

    Even though I have no experience with the RL550, I feel that the RL1100 is not a huge leap in the way you process reloads.  Every time you pull the handle on the 550, there's 4 stations with 4 processes being executed.  And like the 550, the 1100 won't do a thing until you pull the handle!  Yea, there's 8 stations but IMO most are set and forget!  Station #1, 2, 3, 4, 7, and 8 are pretty much set and forget especially if your using same headstamp brass!  

     

    With the 1100, again IMO, once you have the primer depth set correctly that takes care of that; but still demands meticulous maintenance/cleaning of the priming system!  Station #5 powder drop should not be any more complicated than with the 550!  Well lubed and properly adjusted!  And the options for powder checks/camera systems are plentiful to alleviate that worry concern.

     

    Can't remember if your using a MBF or manual placement of bullets; but again once it's set up your good to go until you change bullet size and/or style.

     

    Finally, seat and crimp dies are as I stated, set and forget until you change bullets.

     

    FOR ME, I have gotten very comfortable with the RL1100 by having the camera system that allows me a visual check of each round just before the bullet drops.  Every time I return the handle to TDC, I quickly glance at the right half of the shellplate, glance at the 10" tablet showing me an excellent view of the case and approximate powder level, and finally a quick glance at station #7 to make sure the bullet is correctly oriented.  

     

    You set the pace and go from there!

     

    Good luck!  

     

    👍😁

  11. 2 minutes ago, Cuz said:

    Are you guys using the ratchet on any of your toolheads?  
     

    I don’t use it on my processing toolhead, but I’m not quite confident enough to remove it from my loading toolhead. But it’s giving me fits. I can’t seem to get the release lever mechanism to function correctly. Either it won’t get locked back at the end of the down stroke, or it doesn’t always release at the top of the up stroke. Other times it doesn’t engage the ratchet. One of the Dillon tech support guys commented that most people take it off and don’t use it, which has me wondering what you all are doing?

    Cuz:

    After many, many years of using XL650s that DO NOT use any kind of "safety ratchet" system, the ratchet on my RL1100 came off after about the first 30 setup/test rounds!  Immediately proved to be a PITA!

     

    Come to find out that most experienced users remove the 1050/1100 ratchet systems as soon as they bolt the press down.

     

    IIRC, I've read here that if you experience a stoppage then empty the shell plate and once the issue(s) are resolved then start over from scratch.  Any questionable rounds that were removed from the shell plate can be disassembled and run through the press again.

     

    👍

  12. 3 hours ago, Stafford said:

    Trying to wrap my head around this concept. FYI, I don't reload and shoot factory ammo. Yesterday, I shot Federal Syntech Action pistol 9mm 124 grain red bullet. It averages around 1050 with a power factor of around 130. Good ammo, accurate. Then there is the Federal Syntech Training ammo with the purple bullets. The 147 has a published velocity of 1000. 

     

    So, the power factor will be much higher -147, but I'm guessing that it should recoil slightly less than the 124 due to lower velocity. Is that correct? I thought PF correlated with recoil.

    Stafford:

     

    These are very accurate and with a 133PF are soft shooters in my CZ!  Highly recommended!

     

    https://www.federalpremium.com/handgun/syntech/syntech-action-pistol/11-AE9SJAP1.html

     

    👍

  13. 15 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

    I have both presses set to taper crimp at .370” and they both usually hold a +/-.003” so because I can get the resistance I need to prevent set back on my taper crimp die I decided to not use the U die for my current 9mm bullet applications…. 

    Sig:

    That .370" crimp also strikes me as a bit "tight"......possibly a typo error?

     

    :)

  14. 4 hours ago, JDIllon said:

    SORRY! I meant Shooting Sports Innovations! It also sticks on the down stroke of my 1050 with 9mm! So does the Photo Escape stick? And how does a coated bullet sit on the case from a bullet feeder? I can,t find a happy setting so coated bullet don’t fall off or lay over about 1 or 2% of the rnds? JD  

    JD:

    As I stated above, you may not have a PE powder funnel that is correctly sized for the diameter of your coated bullets.  IE, if your using a .357" or .358" oversized coated bullet, your .357" PE powder funnel may be too small to provide a stable seat for your bullets.

     

    PE sells the larger machined funnels just for this reason:

     

    https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/9htc-ptu.html

     

    👍

  15. 1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

    No Sir - Not so far but I only have about 1000 rounds through the Photo Escape Powder Die so far…..

     

    Paging HOGRIDER (I just sent him a message also) - Hog, how many rounds have you loaded using your Photo Escape Powder Die and have you had any sticking issues so far?

    Sig:

    I'd guess I'm getting close to 5K rounds on the PE powder funnel, and it's working perfectly!

     

    From all my research years ago, and talking with Rick Koskela (inventor/founder of MBF) the sticking of our powder funnels is merely a result of friction.  What really aggravates it is the cleaner the brass (new and/or wet cleaned) the more resistance/sticking it causes when retracting the case. I'm sure you can remember other loaders posting that they didn't experience the sticking issue due to using a media type cleaning of their brass which does leave some combustion residue inside the case mouth.

     

    Another point that IMO is VERY IMPORTANT, are we using a correctly sized MBF/PE/DAA type funnel?  Something Rick shared with me that is spot on:

     

    Quote

    It's also possible that your funnel was poorly machined / or slightly oversize. The expander step should be something around .3575" or .3580" maximum for the 9-38 funnel.

     

    Once I had my funnel (out of specs) machined to .3575" and highly polished, that eliminated 90% of my sticking issues.  This is with my .355" Zero bullets or .356" coated lead.  So, before any polishing is done, there needs to be an accurate assessment done on the funnel seat to make sure it's not oversized.

     

    For me, there were 3 stations on the RL1100 that were all contributing to "sticking".  The Station 3 Dillon expander, the original Station 5 MBF powder funnel, and the Station 8 Redding Taper Crimp.  After addressing the causes in each station, I am 99% sticking free!  

     

    I also contribute my smoothness to the Hornady One Shot case lube!  Another tid bit from Mr. Koskela:

     

    Quote

    From my point of view, I think the first thing I would suggest is to use a good case lube. Some folks don't like to use a case lube on handgun cases, but I recommend it. It makes the whole stroke smoother and you'll need less overall force to complete the stroke. I like Hornady One Shot in the original aerosol can. I usually spread out the cases so they lay down on an old cookie sheet and then spray one side. When the brass is mixing in the casefeeder, the lube will spread all over the cases. Some lube will migrate into the case mouths and aid in reducing tugging.

     

    Finally, I also like your idea of using the Redding Premium Expander Die before the powder drop!  Currently I'm not using one as I've made some "adjustments" on my stock Station 3 hold down/expander, but the Redding when properly adjusted, will definitely take some of the expansion chores off the powder drop funnel making the whole process much smoother!

     

    Hope all this helps my Friend!

     

    👍

  16. 5 hours ago, Stafford said:

    I like to compare my heavier pistols, Shadow 2 and SP01 to my lighter pistols, Glocks, while at the range. The weight of the CZ's make them fun to shoot, but I wonder if the weight also makes them harder to control while squeezing the trigger. I guess I notice it the most while shooting my S2 one handed and trying to control the dot from jumping all over the place. I guess I wonder if a lighter pistol would be easier to control in certain situations. And whether some shooters could benefit from shooting a lighter weight pistol as opposed to playing the heavy weight game for competition.

     

    For the record, I shoot my Shadow 2 better than my Glock 17. But, I wonder if I spent as much time shooting the G17 and dry firing it as I have with my S2, would it make much difference.

    While considering a pistol for Carry Optics, it was recommended I watch this video, among others, concerning heavy vs light pistols......

     

    https://youtu.be/BVf9oMSqx1s

     

    HTHs

    :)

  17. 2 minutes ago, Blackstone45 said:

    That's an outstanding group - what velocity are you getting with that load?

    Let me see if I can copy and paste the results...........two back to back tests:

     

    Zero 147g JHP, OAL=1.125"
    Temperature: 62*
    Pressure: 30.05
    Bullet Weight: 147.0
    Power Factor Average: 133
    Power Factor Low: 130
    Power Factor High: 134
    Number of Shots: 10
    Minimum: 891
    Maximum: 917
    Spread: 26
    Average: 906
    Standard Deviation: 8
    # Velocity Ft/lbs Power Factor Date
    10 906 267.90 133 5/6/21 4:33 PM
    9 917 274.45 134 5/6/21 4:33 PM
    8 906 267.90 133 5/6/21 4:33 PM
    7 891 259.11 130 5/6/21 4:33 PM
    6 905 267.31 133 5/6/21 4:32 PM
    5 916 273.85 134 5/6/21 4:32 PM
    4 897 262.61 131 5/6/21 4:32 PM
    3 908 269.09 133 5/6/21 4:32 PM
    2 914 272.66 134 5/6/21 4:31 PM
    1 904 266.72 132 5/6/21 4:31 PM

    Zero 147g JHP, OAL=1.125"
    Temperature: 59*
    Pressure: 30.03
    Bullet Weight: 147.0
    Power Factor Average: 132
    Power Factor Low: 131
    Power Factor High: 133
    Number of Shots: 10
    Minimum: 897
    Maximum: 910
    Spread: 13
    Average: 902
    Standard Deviation: 4
    # Velocity Ft/lbs Power Factor Date
    10 901 264.96 132 5/6/21 4:23 PM
    9 910 270.28 133 5/6/21 4:23 PM
    8 900 264.37 132 5/6/21 4:22 PM
    7 903 266.13 132 5/6/21 4:22 PM
    6 898 263.19 132 5/6/21 4:22 PM
    5 900 264.37 132 5/6/21 4:22 PM
    4 897 262.61 131 5/6/21 4:21 PM
    3 902 265.54 132 5/6/21 4:21 PM
    2 907 268.50 133 5/6/21 4:21 PM
    1 905 267.31 133 5/6/21 4:20 PM

     

    👍

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