TerryYu

I've gotten the same result using OS. If you're too liberal with the OS and accidentally get some inside the case mouth it can gum up the powder inside if you don't give it a chance to dry fully. You'll go up to the line, shoot, get a squib, and the gun looks like it's full of popcorn kernels of unburned powder. Either switch lubes or use the OS inside a plastic baggie and then roll the brass around inside of it.

The only time I've ever "had" to clean my CZ was after running about 700 cast lead bullets through it. Eventually there was enough bullet lube gunk in the chamber that the slide wouldn't go into battery. Aside from that, boresnake when I remember and liberal applications of FP-10.

Just wanted to chime in that you can keep the primer system going once it's started to stick a little bit by spraying it with Hornady One Shot case lube. I've had this problem on my press for the last 6 months and it keeps chugging along. Not a permanent solution but a good one for the lazy.

Getting blown up is getting blown up, whether it's by an IED or by self made hand grenade. It's still going to suck.

There's a line between dangerous and foolish. You are going to blow up your gun and hurt yourself with these loads! They are already on the ragged edge of sanity and you've made every indication you want to keep pushing it. Below is my quickload calculation for your 13gr load. This is at 1.25", which is the nominal length of .460 Rowland. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Cartridge : .460 Rowland Bullet : .451, 185, Hornady HP/XTP 45100 Cartridge O.A.L. L6: 1.250 inch or 31.75 mm Barrel Length : 5.2 inch or 132.1 mm Powder : Alliant POWER PISTOL Predicted data by increasing and decreasing the given charge, incremented in steps of 3.846% of nominal charge. CAUTION: Figures exceed maximum and minimum recommended loads ! Step Fill. Charge Vel. Energy Pmax Pmuz Prop.Burnt B_Time % % Grains fps ft.lbs psi psi % ms -38.5 67 8.00 964 381 14050 3173 70.7 0.697 -34.6 71 8.50 1019 426 15825 3482 73.4 0.660 -30.8 75 9.00 1074 474 17787 3796 76.1 0.627 -26.9 79 9.50 1129 523 19950 4112 78.6 0.596 -23.1 83 10.00 1184 576 22331 4429 81.0 0.567 -19.2 87 10.50 1239 630 24946 4745 83.3 0.538 -15.4 92 11.00 1294 687 27817 5059 85.4 0.510 -11.5 96 11.50 1348 747 30967 5368 87.4 0.485 -07.7 100 12.00 1403 808 34421 5672 89.3 0.461 ! Near Maximum ! -03.8 104 12.50 1457 872 38211 5966 91.0 0.440 ! Near Maximum ! +00.0 108 13.00 1512 939 42370 6252 92.5 0.419 !DANGEROUS LOAD-DO NOT USE! +03.8 112 13.50 1566 1007 46939 6526 93.9 0.400 !DANGEROUS LOAD-DO NOT USE! +07.7 116 14.00 1620 1077 51964 6786 95.2 0.383 !DANGEROUS LOAD-DO NOT USE! +11.5 121 14.50 1673 1150 57497 7031 96.3 0.366 !DANGEROUS LOAD-DO NOT USE! +15.4 125 15.00 1727 1225 63603 7261 97.3 0.351 !DANGEROUS LOAD-DO NOT USE! +19.2 129 15.50 1780 1301 70354 7471 98.1 0.336 !DANGEROUS LOAD-DO NOT USE! You are ABOVE MAX PRESSURE with your 13gr load at 1.25. I have no idea how much stronger .460 brass is compared to .45 brass, but think about this... are you making any sort of mark that differentiates a Rowland load compared to a normal .45 load? What is stopping someone from accidentally taking one of your 45 ACP brass loads and loading it into a .45 rated for 21k PSI with potentially disastrous results? You are also running a compressed charge. Small differences in OAL will result in HUGE differences in pressure. I ran the numbers on your 13gr PP 1.13" load..... 1741fps and 95584PSI. NINETY FIVE THOUSAND PSI. That could have easily blown your gun (and your hand)! I couldn't even view the results on the computer without clicking through an entire screen worth of warnings. I know you say you're dangerous. People with that attitude tend to disregard warnings like this one, but I hope you read this and understand what I (and the entire forum) am trying to tell you. In my profession we have a saying, there are old pilots and there are bold pilots. There are no old bold pilots. Stay safe

That's the excuse to give so you can buy more than one!

2 or 3. With the lack of spare parts you want to have a couple of spares in case your main goes down.... At least that's what I tell my wife.

I use B doesn't really work with a M&P, the way the slide stop is built the right side has way more resistance than the left side C with a CZ shadow and M&P. D works great for me, very easy to do with guns that have a slide release that sticks out a bit (1911s and CZs) bit harder to do on ones that have a lower profile (some Glocks and the M&P). Really this is very similar to C, you're autoforwarding with the inertia of your finger instead of the inertia of the slide stop/mag follower.

On this issue I have been reading constantly, here and countless other forums, and I have yet to decipher the multi-caliber usage.If I buy a 357, I can shoot the 38 brass at any length I want, to help with loading and unloading. My question is about the bullets. Is it best to use .357 bullets or will I be able to notice any effects on accuracy if I use the same .355/.356 as I shoot out of my 9mm semiauto? Most say to swage the barrel to see what it should like cause they aren't all perfectly to spec, but what is the general consensus? Also, I've read that you can get the cylinder machined to shoot just about everything close to 38 caliber, so is it feasible for it to be machined to shoot regular 9x19 so I could shoot the same load as my production rig? As I understand, the extra length inside the cylinder that the bullet has to travel before it gets to the barrel throat is undesirable, but is it that bad? Basically, I like the idea of having as many interchangeable components between my production rig and my ICORE rig as possible. Yall that know please enlighten... On my 627 I've loaded both .355 and .358 bullets. The .355 bullets will take you out to 15-20 yards, but after that groups open up considerably but will work if you just need some bullets for a close in match. The .358s will go as far as you need. With Bayou Bullet 160's loaded into short colts they'll X ring a 30 yard target all day long. I've also been able to semi consistently hit a gopher target at 100 yards and a IDPA paper target at 200 yards (with about 3 feet of elevation adjustment!). Have no idea why you'd need to do that, but it's a great "hold my beer and watch this" moment for your rifle shooting buddies.

Yeah, but nobody is going to respect you at the water cooler when you tell them you went and bought a 22 over the weekend.

I made some dummy loads with once fired brass so the pin strikes the used primer. Works well enough and I've dry fired my 627 about 10k times since I bought it a month ago with no signs of distress aside from the trigger weight dropping 1/2 pound!

But can it make the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs?

Ow ow ow, I think i brained my damage reading this thread.

No. I'm going to get the action polished but otherwise I'm not changing too much about the revolver until I can exploit it. My 686 has a lightened action but I wind up short stroking it when I try to go fast.

I've just switched from autoloaders to a 627 but I'm having problems with split times. Not as far as fast splits on the field, but actually just pulling the dang trigger any faster than a .3 or so in dry fire without my finger getting really tired after just a couple of drills. I've got a weak trigger finger. What would be the fastest way to strengthen it up so I can get faster at pulling the trigger?

Could someone please upload a photo of what a loaded 38SC round should look like if you're using a 147 RNFP or a 160 RN?

I'd like to start trying Limited-Major but my gun (CZ 75) will only hold 15 rounds of 40. How limited would I be with only 15 rounds, would I be able to make A with just 15 or should I try Limited-10 instead?

I wound up taking the cheater way out. CZ CTS Shadow in 40 with 2 frames, a SAO and a DA/SA. I'm good to go in IDPA SSP and ESP as well as Prod, L10 major, and Limited (at a mag size disadvantage)

No. Production is double/single action or dao triggers only. Your gun would be running in limited minor or if you shoot idpa, ESP.

You won't be disappointed! Go tear up production class!

[quopunches. e=DoubleL" post="2106462" timestamp="1392711850]CZ75BD is on my want list. Why not? It would be nice to not have to manually lower the hammer. I bet with some work at the right shop that the trigger would be plenty good enough. But since you mentioned that you'd like to get into USPSA, I'd say that the best thing you can do is take whatever you have and just go to some matches. Shoot what you have and get some experience so that when you do pick a new gun you pick the right one for you and the division you want to shoot. If you're thinking of trying uspsa you can't go wrong with buying a used glock 17 and testing the waters. Total package cost would be less than $600 for gun, mags, holster, and mag pouches.

Can the custom shop pre fit it for me if I order it from you?

Order a sp01 shadow from the custom shop and shoot the snot out of it. Best thousand dollars investment out there. If you don't like it, someone on the forum will happily offer you 90% of what you paid for it and take it off your hands.

Thanks for the clarification. Does this mean that when I buy the 9mm Ts barrel I'll have to fit it to the 75 frame?

I went and attacked my da frame with a file and 30 minutes later I now have both a CTS Ls-b and p and a da and sao 75 shadow! Pretty spiffy to have two guns and four different configurations. The sao frame with the longslide weighs 39 Oz and the da/sa frame weighs about 42 because of rubber grips. Both make weight for idpa ssp and ESP! Should be a pretty big advantage to go shoot ssp and production with a 5" cz.