TerryYu

So I went and loaded some more test loads bumping up the power by 10% each time and it was a direct correlation between power and accuracy. As the velocities rose the groups shrunk and I got to a happy medium at about 1000 FPS and a 2 inch group at 25 yards. Not the best showing for the gun but that is good enough for me until I burn up the rest of the bullets and can switch back to 180s. So in short, more power = more happy

Not sure what the video is showing me. Not a poa/poi issue but a shotgun sized group problem. Really digging the call of duty style hit markers in the video. Where can I get that mod for my AR?

Sounds good. I'll add more power and see what happens!

Can anyone explain this phenomenon that I saw today? I have a M&P Pro 40 that I loaded 140gr coated bullets for. Went to the range with 2 loads. One was a ~850fps minor load (4.3gr N320) and another was a 1275fps major hypervelocity (8.6gr HS-6) load. The 850fps load shot terribly, group size was the C zone at 25 yards while the 1275fps load was able to put all its rounds on top of each other. I love the accuracy of the 1275fps load, but it hurts to shoot an entire match with it. Trying to figure out why the slow load shot so terribly. Could it be that it's not stabilized enough going 850fps? I mean I load 180gr major and it's around 850-900fps and it does fine. Insufficient bearing surface vs a 180gr? Spends too much time in flight? Almost 50% less time required to go 25 yards at 1300fps vs 800fps. N320 is less accurate than HS-6? It's perfectly accurate in other loads I shoot. Any clues to lead me in the right direction? The end goal is a nice minor load for 40 that maintains decent accuracy.

Thanks for the advice. The seller sent me another photo and it was worse than I thought. He had literally stippled every single surface (including the mag release!) on the frame so I backed away from the deal.

So I am considering pulling the trigger on a VP9 for SSP/prod shooting but it has been stippled. The grip I believe is legal but there is stippling above the trigger guard where the thumb rides. Pretty sure that is illegal. Is it possible to smooth out that part of the frame enough with some sanding/filling to pass an equipment check at a regional match or is the gun done for the moment the frame has been touched?

I want to play in limited but I only have a CZ 75 in 40 that holds 12. Need more bullets. I know the correct solution is to buy a TS, but the baby on the way says no. It seems like the largest capacity mag I can buy off the shelf is the Mec-gar 14 rounder (which looks like their 12 rounder with a +2 base pad). Taylor freelance advertises a 140mm small frame extended basepad that is supposed to be +4. These two together should be 16+1. That's not too bad (if it works), but I pulled the follower out of my current mag and they are pretty massive. Is there a trimmed down Grams guts kit that I can throw into the magazine to get me another bullet? 17+1 will be more than enough for me until I can buy a TS.

Got the gun fitted by the smith. Pretty simple job, as it only involved removing material from two places. 1. Left side of the chamber (the part that contacts the breechface) is a bit thicker than the LS-P barrel so a bit of filing there 2. Bottom lug is about 7/100ths longer so that needs to be trimmed back otherwise the guide rod gets pushed forward when the barrel is in battery, which causes it to nosedive and bind up the recoil spring. That's pretty much it, smith commented that the 9mm barrel lockup was a lot tighter than the 40 so that should be good for accuracy.

Awesome. Where's the quickest place to get my hands on a 9mm barrel?

What is required to switch my 40 ls-p to run 9mm? If I understand correctly the gun is a tactical sport slide that is fitted to a small frame so would I just buy a 9mm TS barrel and have it fitted to the gun? I am digging that extra sight radius over my shadow and would like it in 9mm.

Gun stores, where 45 year old men tell tales of how they were almost a special forces delta seal team 6 tac operator door kicker but couldn't because of (insert lame excuse here)

Or a shady car dealer: "Sir we can't give you any more for your trade than this. Your car has 50k miles, which is extremely high for today's cars. Not only that but you haven't had the ECU rekeyed to the ECM, updated your fuel injector software, or regular headlight fluid flushes. We're basically paying for something that's going straight to the junkyard!"

I was getting a PhD level education in metallurgy at the time. That and I just went to bed when my brain reached its limit.

I posted a for sale ad to my local facebook gun trader group. Typical M&P, comes with a 9mm barrel, shouldn't be a problem. Then this guy comes along and dragged me down to his level and beat me with his experiences as an IPSC Intergalactic Champion. Guy Everything about your gun except the storm Lake barrel is awesome. Even though that's what makes the gun a competition model. I have been through 3 of the storm Lake barrels with less than 500 rounds. My suggestion is to slap the original barrel into it so you can get the most bang for your buck and get more money out of it Terry Yu The gun comes with both the stock 40 S&W barrel and the 9mm Storm Lake barrel. I haven't had any problems with the 9mm barrel, it shoots the same as the stock barrel but with less recoil. Guy That's awesome... great deal... Guy Is the slide heavy on the 9mm Guy What I ment is have you had the slide lightened for the 9 millimeter load for running competition and also has the ejector been modified for the 9 millimeter load as well or is this just a standard barrel conversion? Terry Yu The M&Ps run the same recoil spring and ejector/extractor for 9mm and 40. No mods necessary smile emoticon Guy I know that's what they say but I actually shoot competition and mods are actually necessary for the slide and for the ejector port to make it function properly as a nine millimeter it will function as a nine millimeter in standard operation but 4 speed and competition shooting it simply has too many FTFs Guy If you talk to any competition guys on here they will tell you the same thing it's like trying to get A standard 45 ACP to run 357 sig you have to do a ton of work a lot more than just simply swapping out a barrel Guy When you said it was a competition model I had assumed you had already done all the extensive gun smithing. Guy It will operate yes but it needs to operate perfectly smoothly and 100% of the time so you can win the big money. To pay for the big guns to win more money Guy do you have a certificate of compliance for the barrel ratio to slide weight? Guy Some competitions require that not all. Terry Yu I have no idea what you are talking about. I shoot USPSA and IDPA and have never heard of this "certificate of compliance" Guy It basically states that your weapon is safe to Fire in the competition in it has to comply with the safety certification of slide ratio to barrel configuration. It is not a super irritating thing but sometimes safety range officers will actually do weight measurements on the ratios in if your weapon doesn't comply you forfeit. Usually and national competitions not going to your local Range shootout Terry Yu As far as the reliability of this particular gun, I have not had any FTE or FTF running my 9mm load of 115g LRN loaded to 1150fps or my 40 load 175gr LSWC loaded to 1000fps. If someone buys this gun to take to nationals I would be honored, but they would be shooting it as a 40 S&W instead of a 9mm. Guy If you have a certificate you don't have to worry about getting harassed basically Guy Well as I said earlier I like to shoot 40 preferably but in some speed competitions unfortunately the 40 just cannot hold up mostly due to volume to powder and disbursement Guy Basically the 9 millimeter burns up the competition barrels faster than the stock barrels and then you lose accuracy Guy That's why I said it was better for you to have your stock barrel in there. Guy Basically the barrels burn out because they cannot disperse the heat fast enough when firing 9 millimeter because the housing of the barrel is thicker and holds the heat more so instead of dispersing the heat through the slide and the air it holds more and ends up heating up the Lans n grooves and strips them out. Especially if the rifling is positive meaning raised in the barrels such as S&W and Glock Guy Shoot this comp iron only.... Terry Yu You may need to check your facts. S&W barrels are traditional land and groove rifling. Glocks are polygonal. Also have never shot any handgun fast enough to worry about barrel melting. That's a full auto rifle problem. Hats off to you if you can shoot out a pistol barrel though. I have never seen it done before. I have put 10s of thousands of rounds downrange with my 9mm CZ and the rifling is the same as when I bought it. Like · Reply · 7 hrs Guy The aftermarket ones are not traditional that's the problem Guy If you check the stats a person that Fire in competition usually out fires a full auto Terry Yu From Storm Lake's website: Machined from certified 416R stainless steel for superior strength, durability, and accuracy. Barrels are match grade, hardened to 40-42 HRC and cut broach rifled to shoot jacketed or lead bullets. ---------------------------------------------- Unless they are lying about their metallurgy, it's the same grade steel as other barrels. Also if you check the stats the fastest open class shooters shoot perhaps a .10 to .15 split. That is only 400-600 RPM and they do not do it sustained. Longest stages are about 30-40 rounds with hours between stages for guns to cool down. Guy I shoot a lot of sigs in competition and some Glocks I have to S&W I shoot as well. Have had no problems with the stock barrels only the aftermarket so-called competition ones. Guy Had two complete strippings with Storm Lake and will never use them again. Your pistol is a excellent weapon the only curiosities I had was with the barrel and slide and extractor. Guy You have a hell of a piece and it could make nationals with just maybe some slight adjustments. Even in 40 Cal if we could figure out a way to decrease slide weight and increase spring tension without getting failure to feeds Guy The only problem is is that is really difficult to do with the 40 cal. It's hard with the 9 millimeter but not impossible. And extremely easy with the 38 super Guy I'm sorry I apologize I just now read the stats on their website. The problem is not with what type of stainless Steely is the problem is with the thickness of it it does not disperse the heat fast enough so it tends to strip the barrel out before it's capable of dispersing the heat Terry Yu This gun does not compete with the 38 super guns. It is a SSP/Production (9mm) or a ESP/Limited (9mm/40S&W) gun. There is no direct competition with a 38 super race gun aside from another 38 super or 9mm major race gun. You made me curious so I miked some barrels I have laying around. 40 barrel - 0.10" 9mm conversion - 0.13" CZ 75 9mm - 0.11" 357 Magnum - 0.15" I don't buy the heat argument based on barrel thickness. Makes more sense that it was a bad run of barrels. It's also 2am.... Guy It can with the right mods.... Guy You use a mil gauge and you won't get a proper reading you really need a specialized micrometer. And you do the correct research online and you will see that lots of different results come out of the aftermarket barrels positive and negative because of steel tolerance and thicknesses Exedra Guy The difference between 38 super and competition nine mil guns is who are using them that is the only difference you can get specialized factory loads for the 9 millimeter that makes them function just as fast as the supers Guy Actually I am mistaken there are a lot of differences but if you put a 38 super in my hands and a specialized 9 millimeter I will have times within milliseconds of each other

What's wrong with that? It'll go bang at least once.

Be endlessly bombarded by people boasting of their feats of skill that are either physically impossible or not a feat at all for an experienced shooter. That and clips. You're gonna want a clip for your clips so you can clip them together like they did in Vietnam.

I ran into a guy like that at the flea market. He was selling some m9 parts still with military stock tags on them (don't even want to know how he got those) and was telling me how he could hit the bull at 100 yards with his beretta. "You just aim at the target, raise your aim (as he elevates his aim by about a foot) and bam!" I told him how impressed I was and asked him to come show me at the range but for some reason he just couldn't ever make it out there.

I shot some groups with a family heirloom Western Field 22lr (Mossberg 45b Clone) bolt action the other day at 50 yards and was wondering how well this gun shoots in relation to modern 22s. I don't know any smallbore shooters but was hoping that the Benos community could weigh in on if this gun is good enough to shoot a match with . Groups were shot off sandbags at 50 yards with winds variable around 10mph. Each square is 1 inch.

Thanks everybody. I'll be looking for those 700s.

I am 100% OK with the equivalent of a STI. Thanks for putting it in terms I understand. So to further the analogy would a Savage be the equivalent of a CZ TS, different but equivalent?

First off, don't. Here's why... Long range shooting is expensive. It requires a lot of expensive gear. While you can shoot factory ammo, most people are loading their own. It requires a huge amount of specialized knowledge of things like ballistics and atmospheric conditions and wind, etc. It requires a lot of range time to get everything working together. If you can, go anyway as an observer. Offer to help out doing misc things and spend the time talking with people. Find out what this is all about, what gear they are using. Most importantly, find out if there are other places to shoot - it's a bitch to have $3000+ worth of gear sitting around and nothing to do with it. Those are good points Graham and I have most of the same apprehensions about getting into longer range shooting. I don't have anything that is larger than a 357 in the safe right now as everything I've done has been pistol related so I want to break into rifles for target shooting/hunting/etc.. After some more reading, I think I'm looking for an entry level F-TR rifle. I will be reloading for the rifle, just not immediately. If you could vector me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.

I've got an invite to attend a police tactical long range class that is scenario based and will go out to 1000 yards. Most of the shots will be inside of 400 yards. Problem is, I don't own any rifles that can go much past 100, let alone 1000! Here's my list of "needs" Rugged and Portable - I can't use a benchrest type gun, we'll be outside in the yuck lugging our rifles around the property so I'd like something that can take a bit of abuse .308 - It's the "recommended" caliber for the class. I know it's not optimal for paper punching at really long ranges, but it's what the local LE guys shoot and I'm playing in their backyard. Bipod of some sort I can spend about $1100 total on a setup. Definitely would consider/prefer used equipment if i can find it. I've narrowed down my search to the following guns: Remington 700 SPS Tactical - seems like a obvious choice, since it's marketed to police SWAT teams. Savage 10 FCP-SR or other- I've had Savage very strongly recommended to me by a local gunsmith. However I can't figure out the difference between Savage models, their website is not very helpful. They all seem like the same action but with different combinations of barrel length/stock/magazines and wildly different price tags. Tika T3? Some other gun I don't know about yet I don't know much about rifle optics. I have a Redfield Revolution 3x9x40 laying around the house, but it was only a $200 optic so it's probably not good enough. Whatever I can save off the gun would be invested in the scope. Thanks for the help guys!

Yep, I've got about 500 40 S&W loaded that I need to burn through that have the same problem. 2 squibs in a 125 round match made me sad.

This is a thread necro, but I am trying to figure out why those vic bullet loads state "do not use in revolver". Can someone explain that to me please? I've bought some 150gr SWC cast bullets from Dardas to use in my 625 and this is the closest bullet weight I can find with a published load for Bullseye.