sinnsyk

...and btw I will relieve the bottom more on the sides to allow for side-adjustment of the rear blade. The current cut doesn't do that. Just in case you wanted to point that out in a post.. I am aware of that fact ;-)

Here are some pictures of my modified factory rear sight. I did this for two reasons; 1) to get more width to pick up the front sight easier and 2) to be able to fit my gun in the IPSC box with my largest pad (H-570.. btw not available for sale at this point). a) The rear notch was first lowered 0.060" as you can see how it digs into the bottom of the sight. I then took 0.030" off the top to allow for 0.030" more room for a bigger base pad. c) I widened the notch to 0.135" which gives more "light" on both sides of the front sight. So far I like it a lot better. I've experimented with the depth and I will probably take another 0.010" off the top, leaving the so-far "final" depth at 0.120" vs the factory 0.100" (approx numbers as I'm sure factory measurements aren't always spot on). When I cut the sight, I fixtured the upper in the vise so the all the cuts are trued to the sides of the slide. This makes for perfectly straight top line as well as notch cut. To no surprise, it cleaned up the sight picture as the factory sight was slightly 'crooked'. On my older gun I've got a 0.120" deep notch which I like. During practice and the match this weekend I feel the 0.130" is too deep in combination with the iFiber which is 0.165". I'm also considering making an even taller front sight of either 0.175" or 0.180" and I'll just have to mount it to see which height will work the best. Seeing only the front sight and no part of the slide is a key in my book, but also seeing a taller sight should help. I'm doing this as I experience the effects in my shooting and trying to take it step by step. I can see making a few fixed rear sights that gives me the visual feedback I'm looking for during very fast shooting. As you can see from pics, I'm not running any dog-ears or reliefs on the sides. I've first stayed old school, but I can see some form of side relief happening in the nearest cuts.. Feedback, experiences etc are very welcome. I ran 0.095" front with 0.135" rear and 0.130" deep notch at the Texas State Champs. I'll probably drop the notch to 0.120" depth and relieve the sides this week to see how I like it. The nice thing is that I have another 2 brand new Limited 40's that I'm ready to cut the sights for and build up as complete guns. So I can play with a few different options on sights side-by-side. Again, feedback and input can help shape things to come.. so any thoughts are welcome. Can't promise I'll make them that way, but I'll read the posts and take it all in. Also, if you have strong opinions just give me a call and tell me in person if you want.

I've done some machining on my newest Limited 40. I've opened up the rear notch width, lowered the notch and also lowered the top so it fits the IPSC with my biggest pads easier. To say the least I'm not impressed by the factory adjustable sights, nor by another aftermarket 1911 brand sight I used and tested on my gun for about a year. So far, modifying the factory rear sight is the best option and I will do something to prevent the elevation screw from rotating during shooting. If I get time, this week I will attempt to machine a fixed rear sight for my Limited. It'll be made to match up with the iFiber front sights. This means I will probably make a fixed rear competition grade sight for the Match as well. Second part of this will be to possibly manufacture a robust adjustable rear sight. I've got some ideas, just have to see how I can get it done affordable. I'm tired of dealing with rear sights that re-adjusts themselves, pins move or break. I haven't completely broken many sights on my own, but I know of lot of other shooters who have. For USPSA a fixed rear sight would be a perfect robust solution. For IPSC Standard we do need to be able to lower the rear sight to get high capacity base pads in the box.

Hey. So far we're only making it for the competition (custom) frame. That's what most people have and want. Down the road maybe we'll make one for the match and stock, but the demand is pretty low. I guess I could take pre-orders for match magwell for both large and small frame. When there's enough demand we can make them ? Otherwise it'll be a lost cause on my end.

Email or call me on Tuesday when I'm back from Texas. I have a few jigs which are great for doing trigger jobs. We can go through it over the phone if you want. ;-) Henning

Saul has one coming to me with Tanfoglio logo. As soon as I get to check it out I'll give my 2 cents.

I've got two of them coming to me. They were ordered in February and just now coming in. If you're looking for Stock II 9mm give me a call right away; (720) 352 1080. ;-) Henning

During the last European Championships I've shot (2004 in Czech and 2007 in France) you have a sign in / check in at the range day prior to the match. During that they also have a gun inspection. Of course no ammo allowed. You have all your mags checked in the box, production guns checked, and big sticks for open measured. So now you can start in the match without worry. In some major national ipsc matches they'll let you check out your equipment prior to the match. I remember doing this at the 2008 Czech Extreme Euro Open, this year's 2010 Norwegian Championships and I was also able to check my guns in the box at the 2008 New Zealand Nationals. If you wonder and want to check your equipment prior to shooting, you can typically arrange for it. For my Tanfoglio Limited 40 gun I have 3 different basepads meant for the IPSC box. The two most common is the h-520 and the h-550. The H-520 fits 149.50mm so it's safe. My H-550 is right at the minimum depending on your sights. I have also made some H-570 which isn't available in my store. Both H-550 and H-570 passed the box in Norway, but it was tight. The H-570 also fits Caspian 1911 hicap 40 S&W with their new "tanfoglio style" mags ! The H-550 and H-570 gives you 19 + 1 with 10-coil spring. If you want to reload to 19 you have to cut to 9-coil. 9-coil is on the weak side so I like 10-coil as I can shoot those for their estimated life cycle of 200 magazine cycles (20 rnds x 200 = 4000 rounds per mag/spring). As noted earlier, I just lowered my rear sight by 0.030" which will slip the gun into the box easier. Sweet ;-)

The magwell fit the 150.00 mm box. We made sure of that ;-) I machined 0.030" off the top of my rear sight today. That will give me 0.030" more space for a bigger basepad... I'll be bringing H-520's, H-550's and H-570's to the Europeans and depending on what their box measure I will use whatever pad fits the best. I may even make a H-600 for myself now that the rear sight is lower. If the rear sight thing works well for me I will try to get a production run of a higher quality adjustable rear sight that will allow for a bigger basepad. At the Europeans, historically they have been generous to make sure everybody's setup fits the box. But you never can be 100% sure so good to have a few pad / magazine setups to check with the box prior to the match and use whatever fits. Next weekend I'm shooting the Texas State Limited, but I'll be shooting "standard" to get into the groove of the European rules. I will shoot mostly my IPSC box mags, but for sure have a couple of USPSA 141mm mags for those stages where it would be stupid of me not too. But otherwise I've complied with standard rules at all our local matches. It's good practice and it does change the game a little when you lose a few rounds compared to USPSA rules. Happy weekend everybody. ;-) Henning

I hope to have a Tanfoglio vs Henning vs Canyon article and pictures at some point. But I'm sure we'll see some pictures posted of you guys' guns with the magwell shortly ;-) Just want to mention again... I've been using 1911 shock buffers with the conefit guide rod. When shooting heavy loads or large amounts.. it will prevent metal against metal banging.. I'm using it now all the time in my practice. but I wouldn't do it in match. Never know when they will come apart.

To be safe, I think the clear will handle scratches the least noticeable. Black will be done in hard black so it will hold up more than the clear, but it'll scratch eventually (I expect anyway). I'm considering sporting red checkered grips and red magwell for the Europeans... May just have to btw. did the article look alright ?

I'm in the process of building two new guns for myself which will have the new magwell. I've currently been doing a lot of training with my old 40 which has the weld-on. I may have a new gun with me, but not sure if it's broken in yet for match. We'll see. Either way I'll at least have a magwell with me to show. ;-)

I wrote up an article which can be found through link on my main page; http://www.henningshootsguns.com Large frame, competition magwell, anodized in clear and with a smaller head attachment screw now shipping ;-) I will get hard black and red anodized magwells ready as soon as I have enough orders for them. Small frame magwells will be available soon. They are externally almost identical to the large frame, but accomodate the smaller interior opening. I used this magwell at the 2010 Norwegian IPSC Standard Championships and rocked the world (eh.. at least Norway). ;-) Henning

Winchester has always been my #1 choice as I've never had problems with them. Last years when supplies have been sparse I've stepped in the Wolf shit pile.. Limited 40... winchester small pistol Open 38... winchester small rifle In my Tikka 308 hunting rifle I shot Wolf large rifle because that's all I could get at the time and had no problems, but with my open gun their small rifle didn't work.

Hey Nick I've had several sample springs made that I've tested. I've ordered the one I liked and just waiting to get them in. They match up well with the rolling head. btw which is by Huening, not Henning. Very similar names, different manufacturers.. On the rolling heads I've installed on my guns I've gone in and rounded the edges around the roller considerably. I think that helps in eliminating any potential trigger bar to roller contact outside the roller. Once you get it set up it compliments the flat trigger and the egw hammer and sear very nicely.

So last week I started my summer shooting training program, preparing for the European Championships in Serbia in September. I've switched from Open to IPSC Standard division after being really pleased with my performance at the Norwegian Championships. I'm currently experimenting with sights, springs etc. One of the things I've finally had some time to play with is using a 1911 shock buffer in my EAA Limited 40. So far the results are very pleasing. I am using the Conefit guide rod which gives the buffer the support it needs. The 1911 shock buffer is too wide, but it works. It'll prevent the slide from hitting the frame which is my main goal. Just to reduce the stress on the gun. I've got my ammo lined up so expect to shoot a lot this summer and I want to preserve the guns as much as possible. I've been using the EGW shock buffers which comes in packs of 6. All 'rubber' type of shock buffs are often recommended to change after 1000 rounds and I would agree. I didn't count exactly how many rounds I fired with it, but I think it was just under 1000 when the shock buffer started to separate. It causes the slide to slow down and feed funny. Currently I wouldn't recommend using it in competition, but definitely I'll be using shock buffs for practice. I had maybe 3-4 rounds out of 1000 that didn't feed, but otherwise it worked perfectly. The feeding problem I'm 99% positive is because the buffer is thick and you wouldn't really imagine that those buffers would allow the slide to pick up a round. But it does, almost perfectly. So... at least a good way to preserve your gun - for now. For those of you who've already purchased the conefit guiderod, get some 1911 shock buffers and use them for practice. It's just a good way to take care of your EAA Witness / Tanfoglio pistol. When I get a chance I'll try to turn some aluminum buffers that'll be the right diameter and much thinner. That may be the ticket to a more permanent shock buffer for our guns. I'm sure there are several metals that may prove to be soft, yet durable to cushion the slide to frame blow. If anyone has thoughts, experiences etc please post.

We'll see if it'll change in the future. I gave them "tips" to take a second look at the beavertail length plus also see if it's possible for them to smooth out the ejection port of the slide. All sharp edges in the ejection port can cause a case to catch and end up case getting jammed between slide and barrel. Looks like it never got out, but it did. Just got pulled back forward by the sharp edge of the slide (in rear by breechface). Fairly easily fixed by smoothing out all sharp edges and make it like a web, smooth stone on a riverbed... hmmm lyric ;-) I've learned that lesson painfully at US Limited Nationals.. Had a stage win destroyed by a case catching on the sharp edges of the slide. I like those stage win medals at Nationals.. There's something ultimately cool about winning a stage, anywhere does really matter what match. Everyone can't win the match, but if you won a stage you were the best on that particular challenge. Badass.

Hey It's a "common" known thing for IPSC standard shooters. In most cases the matches will have a box that is big which will fit the Tanfoglio Limited / LC. However... if you build yourself a zero box (150mm x 225mm) then yes, you'll realize you have to shave off the rear of the beavertail. All the boxes I've been tested in IPSC Standard matches, my gun has fit. But I built a 150x225 box for myself which it doesn't fit. i also built a 151 x 226 box (max box) and it does fit. I had a meeting with the factory in Italy last week and made them aware of it too. The problem is that most don't built an exact box and always big to be on the safe side. However... if you ran into a zero box we'd be filing right there at the match. I'm building two new Limited 40's with all my parts plus EGW, Huening, Wolff etc. These guns will be the ones I'll be shooting at the Europeans in September and I'll make sure they fit the zero box. So I'll shave off the back and after doing a few modifications to slide and frame I'll have it re-finished in Ionbond. Ionbond is my absolute favorite finish. Expensive but tough and good looking. ;-) Henning

Slide lock function can be unreliable which is why I never use it any more. I have switched to a pin and never rely on the slide-lock to only lock back on empty. It can probably be fixed, but it's probably a gunsmith job unless you can spend some time on it and thoroughly investigate what it's doing.

Also a lighter trigger plunger spring would help. In the past I've cut 1.5 coils off the plunger spring (sits under the trigger bar and puts pressure on it). I have gotten a few sample springs that I've been using with great results in SA. I'm sure they'll work good for DA as well. When I get a solid supply of them I'll put them in my Stock II and give it a go. I will be doing more work on DA triggers this winter. I've got a new hammer and sear coming which when ready will be for DA as well. Possibly not legal for production, but maybe that can be worked out. Going to a lighter hammer spring and working with the primers to set them off is big.

I haven't seen these threaded, but then again over the years the factory has come out with a lot of cool little things. I'm not up to date on their conversion kits, but this looks like a little gem. 22 conversion kits can be tricky to get working though. Be patient and try different kinds of ammo. Coated bullets with little wax and no lead = less crap in chamber = better function.

The Fiber optic front sight H-FOP95 (0.095" wide) and H-FOP105 (0.105" wide) are both serrated and with a 0.040" fiber rod. We are making more fiber optic front sights within the next two months and we will be adding at least two more front sight options: Fiber optic front sight (serrated) for the Match; 0.140" tall. Black Front Sight (serrated); 0.175" tall Any input / desires please let me know

Hey Glad to hear it and psyched that you are so happy with them. Me and my machinist put A LOT of work into designing and making them fit tight. It takes about an hour for us to make one set, plus send off to anodizing, cutting material etc. Lot of work, but that's how you make a nice grip. Thanks for the post and comments, really appreciate it ! Henning

The hammer has two holes in it; one is for the strut which holds the hammer spring. It's the other one; with the L-shaped little gadget. It's what makes it possible to leverage the hammer backwards when the hammer is down. Just use a punch, remove the pin and take out the interruptor.

We'll see, not out of the question it can happen. I have been asked by Tanfoglio to send samples of my parts. And I'm going to visit with the owner at the factory in Italy in June. So then we'll know. Either way it's no big deal for me if they don't buy my parts. But it could bring the prices down as my cost would go down when I can make larger batches. And of course a great recognition of the quality of my parts.