sinnsyk

I've got a drawing of a hammer shape that has a cocker, but is extremely light weight. Looks like a Cobra so if my machinist can make it, it may be named just that.. The Cobra Hammer... (it strikes..) mmmm

I have some 161 in smooth, but think they are all anodized. If you are going to paint them yourself it wouldn't matter what color they are. I can USPS Express which should take 5 days. I would do that due to holidays. Only pain for me on this is that I have to stand in long line at post office. All express I do manually at post office, while Priority mail stamps are printed in my office. But I'll do whatever you want. I've got another express going to Canada so would be great to combine by sending both on same day, preferrably on Monday. But whatever you want, I'll do.

I just got re-stocked on a ton of contour aluminum grips for ALL EAA / Tanfoglio models and will be running a 20% off All Grips until December 31 st. Grips I now have available in both smooth and checkered are: Large Frame EAA & Tanfoglio Models: H-152 (LARGE frame) Fits Stock, Match, Steel. H-151 (LARGE frame) Fits Stock II, Hunter, Limited Pro and Limited/Gold Teams using Canyon Creek Magwell. H-150 (LARGE frame) Fits Limited, Gold Team and guns using Factory Magwell. Small Frame EAA & Tanfoglio Models: H-161 (Small Frame) Typically this will be the Stock II for all countries except US market. So all of you out there with Tanfoglio Stock II this is the grip you want. If you happen to have a Limited Pro or a Competition / Custom frame in small frame without any magwell then this is also the grip you want. Will also fit Springfield P9 without magwell or with old-school weld-on magwells. H-160 (Small Frame) NEW Fits Limited, Gold Teams and guns using Factory Magwell. Will also fit Springfield P9 with a Tanfoglio factory magwell. For all of you non-US shooters with a Limited 9mm or a Gold Team / Silver Team 9mm in Europe and other parts of the world, your gun is probably a small frame and this is the grip you want! Most grips are available in anodized silver, black and red. Some are also available in blue anodized. All grips can be upgraded to a custom Bearcoat color of your choice. Webshop will illustrate this. To get the discount, make sure you write "GRIPS 20% OFF" in the comment box of your order. I still like to give the discount to those who pay attention on this forum and are lucky to get in on these types of deals. I just got the H-160 grips in stock for the first time and it's not on the webshop quite yet, I still have to do that tonite. If you are impatient you can also order the h-161 and write "this grip is for .... type of gun, small or large frame, with or without magwell or with this type of magwell etc.". I try to accomodate all styles of gun models the factory makes. All orders are processed manually after I get them so the discount will be taken off when I charge your card, you will not see this on the order itself, just on your credit card statement. If you have ANY questions, just email me. Remember to order the H024 Torx Grip Screws if you get a new style grip. You could use your old sorry ass factory grip screws, but they have a big head that needs to be turned and they are not nearly the quality of my screws. When you order a grip at the 20% off I will sell you the grip screws at $6 instead of the $10. Merry X-Mas ! Henning & Emma

Unfortunately it seems to be necessary to remove the half-cock on 'most?' of the trigger jobs. I've done a few where everything seems to work fine without having to do so, but on mine I've removed them completely. As long as you hammer & sear doesn't follower it will be fine. Almost after a trigger job, only load your mag with one or two rounds to make sure it doesn't go full-auto on you..

Yep, this little product is now available in my store. Just picked them up from heat treat today. They are for sure of better quality than factory and you'll only really miss it when you've lost it. So having an extra or two isn't a bad thing. I've included them in the spare parts kit. My stainless plunger is nicer than the factory blued version. Tough as nail.

The 'new' 9mm mags is the 'old' 38 super mags. The old 38 super mags I really liked for 38 super. They never failed me with the factory follower and slightly modified I could get 19 rounds in them. Springs lasted forever etc. The 9mm mags has never been reliable and they are supposed to come out with a new magazine, but no idea when this is happening. At shot show 2009, tanfoglio said they had a new magbody in the works. A month ago I got yelled at by EAA for even posting this stuff as they don't know when they're gonna get the new mags... Factory is bumming us out here and I hoped they'd come together with something, but apparently they are having production issues with them or something. No idea. We got some 9mm mags a month back, but not enough to cover all the backorders. And they are still not of the 'new and improved' style we were told about at the shot show. I haven't tried the 38 super mags for 9mm. Actually today I was looking at how STI solves the issue and starting thinking about having spacers made that would put the rounds in the right place. If 38 super mags works for 9mm that would be great, but no clue yet. Either way, I would think the same solution for pushing the rounds forward will be better than the current mag setup. Current 9mm mags is one solid indent ala SVI style mags. Current 38 super mags is like STI 38 super mags with two rails. That's all I've got for now..

The first holsters that works with the rail is in production and should be here soon. I talked to Blade-Tech about making a holster that can hold a variety of lights. They weren't ready to make them just yet, but we will. I have to check with them, but I think it will be able to hold either M3, M6 or TLR-1 light, but this is something I have to check with them again. It will be available in my shop soon. We just want to get the holsters for the gun with rail, but nothing attached. Then they said they'd be ready to make me holsters that'll work with 3-5 different lights. As I understood you have to use a light with this holster and cannot just have the gun. Stay tuned and I'll get you set up shortly.

I probably won't make it an H, but rather something that is very light and trick looking.

Shouldn't be any difference between them, only thing that's changed is that the new Match with rail has a new frame. All the upper stuff switches between all models, even Match to Limited to Steel to etc.

Cool. Thanks for the feedback so far. Personally I do want the ability to cock the hammer, but I also want it non-dominant and small/light. The ultimate design for the hammer I hope to make stand out and make you go wow. Just need to get the machinist to go for it with me and it will have a distinctive signature look.

Yes, shouldn't be much longer. I've had a gun for custom molding and I saw the first holster a few days ago. Looks good. I'll have them available in a few weeks. ;-) Henning

I'm working on a new hammer and sear made from tool steel. I do want to make an alternative hammer and sear to the EGW design. EGW's hammer and sear which is originally from Huening is a great setup, but it doesn't include Double Action and it more often than not requires that you remove the half-cock to make it work properly. I don't like the fact that the half-cock has to be removed and I don't like that we cannot have a quality steel double action alternative to the factory parts we just cannot get a lasting trigger job on. So here's what I'm proposing and pondering... Initially I am making the hammer hook and half-cock geometry same as the factory. The big difference is going to be that they will be made from quality tool steel and hardened. This will allow us to do a trigger job that will last. Also I want it to be a fully functional double action alternative. This won't affect the single action function at all, just means we'll have another hole for an optional interruptor (the part that makes DA possible). I will of course integrate several improvements : a) the touching sides of the hammer will have a 'boss' on both sides similar to the flat trigger. This will reduce the friction surface and eliminate possible edges of the hammer hitting sides of slide/frame that it shouldn't. I personally want the lightest possible hammer for a quick ignition. No need to make a heavy slugger. Lock time should be as quick as possible and you can even feel this when you pull the trigger. c) Shape is all. We can make several designs, no problem. But all comes down to production volume and cost. I could make a factory look hammer, but honestly I don't think you can fool IPSC production rules if that's what you're thinking. And I don't want to try to fool the IPSC rules. IPSC Production guys are probably out of luck until Tanfoglio offers a better setup of they decide to sell my stuff in a far, far distant future ? I would rather focus on developing an innovative and hopefully slightly unique design that when you see it you would say... hey's that's H's hammer isn't it ? Now it's just putting it all together. I'm hoping to have the first cut parts in a week or so. In the mean time, please help me with your feedback. Once we got the initial CAD done and figured out production we can start the creative process... If other questions should be asked in this poll, please post so we can get a group input on this. Thanks for your help ! Henning

I like the two flat surfaces idea. It would mean that the plunger and the trigger bar would have to be a kit rather than you could upgrade either one. I've got the machine shops working hard on some other projects, but rest assured we will soon improve all of these parts. In the mean time hashing out better ways to do it is time well spent. If I follow my gut feeling on some of these projects they seem to come to out when all the little doubts are removed and a clear plan is formed. Hashing things out in this forum has been and is continually of enormous help. Everyone's input is extremely valuable.

In an ever continuing search for improving everything there is on the Tanfoglio guns and make sure I have a solid supply of parts... The tiny Mag Catch Plunger (# 6.7) as shown in diagram on http://henningshootsguns.com/shop/pinspringscrew.html is now made in the US in 416 stainless steel and hardened. This part has never caused any problems or shown any wear, but they are easy to lose when you disassemble and I sell them on a regular basis just because of that. So... now it'll be a Henning H067 Mag Catch Plunger. It'll be included in the spare parts kit shortly. The part is not up on the website yet, waiting to get them back from heat treat. I know it's overkill, but in the long run I never have to worry about getting the parts from EAA that has to get them from Italy. Plus, of course mine will be of higher quality though it's not essential for this parts function. I'm hoping to have a lighter mag release spring shortly as well. And then... I have plans for a buttoned mag release. Then all these parts will be included in as a whole.

Yeah, those kinds of ads aren't my thing.

Yes, please post your ideas. I've felt for a long time that we could come up with something better than the plunger. Also, the plunger sits in and holds the magrelease button, making it a complete tear down to take the magrelease out. Not sure how easy it would be to make a magrelease that isn't held in by the plunger, but it is possible. Just a matter of putting mental energy into it. I've been pondering making a new trigger plunger, but I honestly don't want to just make the rollerhead. I'm glad you're saying you've thought of something better. Let's have a look and see how we can get it made.

Your question on light strikes reminds me that I do need to write a Tech article about this with all the possible scenarios. I don't always think of all the reasons every time and I think between everyone here on the forum that we've been able to find the reason behind almost all problems. Searching through previous posts can be tedious so adding light strike issues to the Tech section will be on my list. I've also gotten requests for making a video on how to do a trigger job so I will do this soon. I also hope to have some sear jigs available soon. My schedule is clearing up a little now after a busy travel schedule since the summer. I'll be home in Colorado tonite and just bitch at me if I forget or start slackin' on this. For the next month I will focus on getting several parts made. Then it's Shot Show next and hopefully start getting some skiing in this winter ;-)

Not sure. IF the hammer pin is too tight it can slow the hammer. Probably not the case for you, but with my new hammer pins it may be necessary to do work on pin/hammer fit. Also look for drag marks on sides of hammer and take a look at the hammer strut / hammer spring. Make sure the hammer strut is installed correctly.

That's a neat idea. I had some sample spings made for the plunger and I use it in my gun. They are just as long, but lighter than the factory so you don't have to cut coils. I've asked to get these springs made up and I will make them available as soon as I get them. The plunger is an important part of the trigger system and I'll look into an improvement for it. I'm in Sweden today, but driving back to Norway in a few hours and flying home to Denver tomorrow. As soon as I get back I'll be back on the project. I don't remember if this was covered in this thread, but I installed a trigger on Saturday where I had to narrow the trigger bar "loop" that sits into the trigger. It didn't feel like it was binding but it was too big and caused the trigger bar not to sit straight in the trigger. It caused reset issues. Oncei it was moving freely, the trigger worked 100%. We've taking out quite a bit of material to allow for a variation of trigger bars, but got to a point where modiying the trigger bar is easier than trying to make a trigger that accomodates for the inconsistent factory trigger bars. It's amazing to see how these things can vary that much. I've installed my triggers in Tanfoglios that range from 2009 models to 1995 and the parts are not the same. Not huge differences, but trigger bars and plungers have minor differences. We will make our own bar and plunger.

I'm not 100% only plastic frame on this topic. I've said that I think it'll be very beneficial to Match owners (still a steel gun, but a short dustcover). This opinion is rooted in having both had a short and long dustcover limited gun and seen the difference. I'm pretty happy with how the balance of the Limited, but that is limited knowledge since I haven't tried with the tungsten guide rod. So.... I'd be interested in a guide rod from Rich as well with the combo setup. Of course Rich and everyone has my blessing. We're just here to improve this shit and have fun on the range. Let's see if we can get Rich to make 10 or more to make it worth his time and get us some new and cool products. State your interest so I know how many "ConeHead" 's to ship to Rich next week. Maybe we'll all be convinced and find that it's superior to the setup we're already running. Let's try, I'm in. btw. for those who ever saw "The Pelican" from STS... in 2004, their top shooter had a pretty ridiculous weighted dustcover that looked like a pelican's beek. It was said to be less recoil bla bla... it was extremely heavy and hard to swing between targets. I handled it, but never shot it. But as far as I know it wasn't pursued. Probably for the reason that the gun was too heavy. It's important to keep an open mind and try, re-try, re-try, re-try etc... When the long dustcover open guns came out I wasn't convinced, but I tried it. I compared the long to my short 38 super. I liked the short better. Then I took a long and cut it to half-length and figured in my head it would be the shit. Testing showed me over and over that the short was better (for me). The dot settled a lot less nervous with the less weight and I was convinced. I chopped the final part of the dustcover off and that gun is now what's been ionbond'ed and modified to the nTh degree.

I've reduced the slide weight of my Limited by a little bit. Probably a little less than the Limited Custom. What really makes the Tanfoglio guns so flat shooting is the lighter slide weight over the 1911-style. And having a heavy frame to absorb the recoil/impact is what makes the combo so nice to shoot. More and more are discovering this... ;-)

Hey Rob. No.. got what you meant and I agree with you. The factory won't be interested in paying for higher end parts. What would be nice is if the production rules were flexible enough to allow for using parts that keeps the guns running. Being a production division it's a sensitive topic as of course they don't want the class to slide into another 'open' division. Some parts are not as much of a competitive advantage as just beneficial to making sure the guns are reliable. The new guide rod won't make you shoot faster, but it will protect your gun from damage. I remembered the misfire problems you were having at the world shoot and that they ended up allowing production shooters to use my firing pin so you could use the Armscor match ammo you more or less were forced to use. I'm glad you can use my front sights and grips in production.

The Tanfoglio doesn't have a very long rear travel - compared to a 1911. Take a look at it when you rack your slide to it's farthest rear position. You'll see that the breechface is just past the ejector and just far enough to pick up the next round. For a shock buff to work properly it needs to be placed between the frame 'block' where the slide (the dustcover part of the slide) hits it. This is what stops the slide from moving any farther back and this is where the slide - frame hitting occurs. I can make a 0.050" to 'maybe' 0.080" thick aluminum shock buff and still get the slide to pick up the next round. But if it doesn't move far enough and give the magazine enough time to push the next round up, you'll see misfeed issues. Exactly how thick of a buff we can install without any slide modification I don't know, but I'll start to experiment when I get back. I would recommend getting the new guiderod before trying any of this. The reason is that if you don't you won't get much support behind the buff and it could snap real easy. Being so thin, only an aluminum shock would be feasible. But... if the slide (dustcover part) was machined off, say by 0.100"... it would allow the slide to move this much farther rear. And this means we could make a rubber shock buff and most likely have it protected with a very thin steel washer for extended rubber shock life. So, now the new shock buff would offset the same amount machined off, whether this is 0.100" or 0.150" etc. We would prefer to keep the rearward movement as it was originally designed. If we just shorten it, it may cause everything from frequent to cccasional feeding issues. A rubber buff w/ protective steel washer is the absolute best way, but it also will require to cut the slide's dustcover back to compensate. Now is just the question of how much softer it will make the recoil. Besides of course being a frame/slide life extender. I can say this... if and when our slide/barrel project gets off into production, the complete upper (conversion kit) will be supplied with my new guiderod, a rubber shock buff, steel washer and a slide to match up with the buffer.

I'm back in Colorado on Tuesday, but I may get Emma to pick them up from the heat treater even earlier. Either way, Rich will have some as soon as they are ready and it's probably just a matter for him when he can make a combo-rod. I like the idea and i think it's the absolute best way to go to ask Rich to do this on a custom basis. Based on the curious experimenters' experience maybe the rest of us will follow suit. Who knows... And I have said this before.. I think the Match owners really could benefit from adding front weight from a tungsten rod. I will probably pretty soon cut my slide to allow for a rubber shock-buff with the ConeFit (that's what I renamed it) guiderod.

The secondary idea behind this is to bring a shock buff solution next. A tungsten solution is something I have considered. I could make a two-piece ConeHead with a screw-on tungsten piece, but as you said it'll be expensive and I'm not sure how big demand would be for it. Personally I think the Match would benefit the strongest. The Limited in my opinion is okay as is, but you know.. maybe a tungsten rod is the cat's meow... let's try it. Here's probably the way to go... In fact if you wanted that today, I bet Rich at Canyon Creek would make you a setup using my guide rod and turn a tungsten piece to fit. Rich already have made the traditional guiderod out of tungsten. A blend of his tungsten rod custom-fitted to my ConeHead could be a exactly what you're looking for. The hardened cone steel head will hold up the beating and the tungsten for added front weight. I'll be sending some of my new designs to Rich next week and he could turn some custom rods to match up.