Northern Xtreme

Has anyone else seen the pictures circulating of a man who said his thumb was blown partially off because he shot a 460 with a grip that had his support hand thumb in front of the cylinder gap? Seems a little far fetched to me, I wanted to know what you guys thought about that. If someone has the pics please post them, if not I will try to get them.

Staging/ prepping call it what you want. Are you telling me that you wait for the gun to come to full extension during your draw before you begin to pull on the trigger? And that you wait for it to settle back on target between shots before you begin to pull on the trigger? I find that hard to believe.

When you get used to shooting double action prepping the trigger will come naturally. You should also be prepping the trigger as the gun rises and falls from recoil which will set you up for quicker split times.

Mike, Your wife must think you are insane! Congrats, my wife will have put up with me for 20 years this coming september!

Just chrono it under the same temperature conditions as you will be shooting in. I have had issues with temperature causing velocity fluctuation with 231 in the past, but I wouldnt think it would be a problem at a local match unless they chrono you.

Carmoney, you are damn good but how the hell can you tell that? It has to be the two tone finish work.

The gun is a Smith and Wesson customized for use as a Bianchi Cup gun. Not much is stock about it. Pretty much just the frame and cylinder. I am surprised it doesnt have a mover base on it. A c-more sight is also probably not what I would shoot the cup with either. I bet they had a Gilmore on it and then changed it to shoot a different game. Brownells used to sell all of the cup upgrades for a revolver. Slab sided ported barrel. It has the finger stop on top to keep your fingers from going over the ports using a barricade grip, the ejection rod shroud is also for a barricade grip. It has a Hogue Big butt grip on it to help get the gun up for shooting prone. It has a lot of custom work like a bobbed hammer, ball detent lock up, trigger overtravel screw, cut cylinder release, and the cylinder looks like perhaps it has a bead blasted front and polished rear half. It was probably built on a Smith and Wesson K frame, but it could be an L frame. Are you planning to shoot NRA Action Pistol because if not a lot of the upgrades are not really going to be useful for anything else. Smith and Wesson does sell some fairly customized guns from their custom shop, but you will get a lot of mixed reviews about them. Most serious competitors will have their guns customized by a gunsmith. I see used customized revolver for sale at gun shows quite often and they go for cheap because unless someone has a specific use in mind noone wants to pay for all the extras. I hope this helps.

But doesnt the 646 have a weird short grip? I looked at one but didnt like the grip, but I am a square butt guy anyways so what do I know?

The biggest problem I see with a 40 for revolver is finding decent bullets. There are not really any good round nose bullets that lend themselves well to the fastest reloads. Please dont reply with you can do a reload with the truncated cones just as fast because I aint buying. I'd also like to see it in an L frame.

$ 1380, is that all?

But it will sure make things a lot more interesting!

Thanks guys. I will let you know how I make out.

Thanks for the info guys. I will definately be shooting some groups with a couple different rounds this week. I will also shoot over a chrono to try to get some better info for the ballistic programs.

I dont think the 1 in 9 twist will stabilize the heavier bullets properly. Besides getting the ammo in one week could be a problem. Also since I have to shoot the entire match with the same ammo, it will be more expensive since I already have the ammo I mentioned.

I was hoping for a little more specific help. I do not have a ballistic program. I do not know the bullet coefficient of the 62 grain SS109, I think it might be .265. I figure my velocity should be around 2800-2900 fps coming out of a 16" barrel. I know that a minute of angle is 1.047" and calling it one inch is probably close enough to use the clicks on a scope, some scopes are set up with MOA adjustments and some are in inches. The problem I have is ballistic charts are showing the drop of the SS109 (M855) at 600 yards to be 141" which figures out to 23.5 MOA. I am not even at the point where I am going to worry about wind yet and I dont eat cereal or beets!

200 yards is the farthest I will be able to sight in at. I know the velocity is ballpark but I am hoping its close enough to at least be on paper.

I need some advise from some of the more experienced Enos forum riflemen. I am shooting in a competition next weekend which includes one stage where we must shoot at the NRA Highpower rifle target at 600 yards. We are allowed 2 sighters to get on paper. If we can get on paper we will then be alowed to fire 5 shots in 2 minutes from prone position without any further spotting. I am going to shoot a Flat top Bushmaster with a 16" barrel with 1 in 9 twist. I am planning to mount a Leupold VX2 3x9 scope. I have two ammo choices Fed XM 193/ 55 grain, or NATO SS109 62 grain. I have a few questions. 1.) Which ammo would you reccomend. 2.) If I zero the gun at 200 yards, how many clicks would I have to go up to put it on at 600 yards. 3.) Could I confirm it by shooting a group at 200 and have it hit so many inches high at 200? If so how many inches should it be high? I am leaning towards the SS109's, from what I am reading the SS109 bullet drops 10.2 inches at 200 yards and 141.3 inches from the muzzle at 600. The XM 193 drops 9.9 at 200 yds and 156.1 inches at 600 yards. Does this mean I could sight the SS109 in 131 inches high at 200 and be on at 600? It doesnt seem like I would have enough adjustment in the scope for this.

It looks to me like he does a quick snap back with his right wrist which puts the muzzle upward and close to breaking the 90 upward for a split second.

I started shooting a 625 this season. Before that I had shot nothing but L and K frames for many years. In the first few matches with the new gun I short stroked the gun during the really fast up close stuff. I knew the second I did it and just prepared myself to crank around the cylinder again until I hit the skipped shell. Of course this really kills the stage. I attributed it to the larger N frame which I was not yet used to. The stroke is just a little longer then the L frame and I wasnt quite letting the trigger go all the way forward before trying to pull it again. After I had put a few thousand through the gun I did not have the problem again. So I think it is just a matter of getting some trigger time in.

"Not to get in an argument. Did Jerry beat us or did we beat ourselves." Well since you asked. The way I would answer this question is to ask you: If the match were shot again tomorrow would the results be any different?

There is a difference between beating someone and having them beat themsleves. If someone shot their best and you topped it then you beat them and you could do it time and time again. If someone crashed and burned on one stage and you didnt but come out ahead of them, but it likely wouldnt happen again if the stage was shot over again. Then you won the stage, but they beat themsleves. I wouldnt go around saying I beat Jerry. Thats disrespectful.

Well I can say I am one of the few revolver shooters in the country that didnt get beat by Jerry at this years nationals! I didnt go!

Where are the scores?

Mikes been kicking ass and taking names all across the country! Congrats again Mike.

Thanks a lot Carmoney, now my wife is mad at me!