Chuck Merriam

That's in a g24? Maybe I should shorten it down. I just long long from habit....STI Edge loads.

Does anyone have a load for a g24 (stock barrel) with n320 and 180 zeros? I think 4.2g at 1.150 will get there but I would like some input. Thanks

Who did the milling?

This sounds like the breakdown of a golf swing.....if you take a hundred things to do at the same time to the course, you will never clear your head to swing. I am no grandmaster but the ones I have watched seemed to flow through all transitions...meaning they look effortless and waste no motion. I can try to shoot fast or I can try to be smooth...funny thing is if I am smooth, I am almost always fast. I believe some of the speed of the transition is the preparation of the stage and seeing all shots and the finish before you start. It is easy to forget this sport is very mentally challenging, and I have dramatically improved my shooting by preparing mentally. Your foot position starting a stage is very important, as it helps you stay in the comfort zone of balance. This all flys out the window when you have to get from point A to point B (a distance away) fast...then you just have to want it! I still have Super Seniors teach me a lesson or two....and they have 30 years on me So much for young and flexible...makes you think.

I am late to this thread but...... 1 I think your problem will go away with time as you become one with the gun...corny but true. 2 There is one product from a leading glock parts store (forgot which one) that is a drop in for dry firing a glock that resets without cycling the slide...this should allow you to practice the trigger stoke easier. You will have to take it out to live fire but it would speed things up alot. Hope this helps.

As I understand it you must have some pre-travel for the trigger to work properly and reset all of the parts. Maybe Bob or Chuck can address this from an experts view. Zero pre-travel is not an option.

If crisp is what you strive for then the 5 lb is as close as you will get. I second the 25 cent trigger job with the wheel, just go easy on the disconnector. There are a few places that you don't want to over polish....disconnector...striker. A reduced power striker spring will cut almost a pound off...polishing maybe another 1/2 pound. I fixed a friends washboard trigger with some 1200 and 2400 grit sandpaper at the range....the nose of his trigger bar where it meets the disconnetor was very rough like they cut it on a band saw. After my .02 trigger job it was 100% better...he was amazed. I have another friend who shoots only Glocks and he says the best was to get the trigger down is with 20k rounds down range . And you will get some practice somewhere between round 1 and 20,000! I have spent alot of money on trying everything. Vanek's trigger is the best....but guys still beat me with a stock trigger! Svigney uses a nearly stock gun. If you don't have alot of money then just shoot it....you will get better. And if you carry the same gun you will be very fast and confident if the need comes around.

I had a past 1911 with the SVI tri sear and it was awsome at 1.8lb pull. I'm not an IDPA buff....I would use my les baer or glock if I try it. It will probably start out blued. I have chrome but I like the fact that a dark gun doesn't get my attention when behind it.

Silicone...it will stick well enough for awhile. Just don't get crazy with it. Plus it will help with the softening.

I will be getting a lightened slide, frame and bar-sto fit by Bob at Brazos. I already have some parts: Shanahan Grip Dawson Ice Mag Rear Bo Mar Dawson Tooless Tungsten Rod Ti Strut Ti MS Cap Brown Safeties Koenig Hammer Extreme disconnect EGW sear Dawson FO front SVI Tri Glide Ti Sear Sring Drilled & tapped mag release w/ lo pro button Aftec extractor I know I will need some pins (Ti Nitride worth it?) and some of the small parts. I need a good grip safety. My STI works fine. Trigger Firing pin Firing pin stop Have I done good so far? Any pitfalls for these parts? Anything missed? Give me some input I want this to be the last build for a while. It will be shot in the white for a while and then blued or coated because I seem to like a black gun. Thanks, Chuck

Every gun is different. I run a 15# ISMI mainspring and 16# recoil in a les bear with a tungsten guide rod. Check your primers to see if the gun is timed correctly. With a light mainspring and recoil spring you may be getting it to unlock too early. You will see the primer having a strike skid mark. I originally ran my gun at 15 and 15 but had it unlocking a little too fast...put in a 16# and it went away. Just something to look for.

I would like to thank the forum and all of it's members for the helpful opinions and wisdom. I have learned so much here and have passed it along any chance I get. I think USPSA shooting as a hobby and sport will continue to thrive because of the warmth and generosity of the people who make it what it is. I consider every shooter a part of my extended family. Thanks

I have had the chance to shoot with GM's of both Open (Chris Tilley) and Limited (Kert Gaskill) and can say I honestly learn a good bit every time I shot with them. They are very helpfull and nice. In a big match there will not be as much time with these guys as there would be in a local match. I would not want to shoot with lesser shooters in a big match because I feel I might get sucked into the problems they may have with complicated stages. That being said, with the GM's I can learn as I watch and use what I like, and maybe just maybe, be sucked in the wake of their wisdom. Plus I like to watch a good shooter shoot, even if i am not one myself.

I have to chime in.............. One more accessory and you will have the competition whipped.... Speedo Good thing we have a loose dress code... Thank God not that loose!

Mine is very accurate....I shot my last match with a stage with many 25 yard targets and under the clock I only dropped 3 points with a good time. I think the loads do thier part but I think my sight picture inspires me to more confidence than the gun. A fiber optic sight is what did the trick for me....everyone else may have their own comforting piece to the complicated puzzle of shooting under pressure. As for the trigger...yea it sucked out of the box. A 15lb ISMI mainspring and some bending on the sear spring....poof 2.5 lbs! There is a great article on brownells how to section for tuning the sear spring part....the STI is a bit different but it helps to see how they interact. Got to change the Avitar!

TA31 standard...I have a problem with scopes having a long eye relief....plus this on gives you more field of view. Black out the front for up close stuff so BAC doesn't get me

Build your own if you have the time and B*lls. I am very happy with the turnout....my first three gun and Chris Tilley himself came back from the targets praising my head shot groups at 1" from a hundred yards with the clock running. I could have bought the upper from JP but I would not have gotten exactly what I wanted. I already had a Wilson Combat UT 15 carbine with a sweet JP trigger.....so I just built an upper for 3 gun. DPMS Lo Pro upper, Briley Carbon Fiber FF tube, JP 18" mid weight barrel with Cooley Comp and Adj gas block, Low mass stainless bolt with black teflon finish and low mass buffer. Again I could have bought it cheaper especially if you factor in the tools to do it right. As for the b*lls part...you need to crank the ff tube pretty good to get the gas tube holes to line up and the whole thing to stay together tight. I think half of being a smith is knowledge, finess, and brawn in harmony. So get the parts you want and build that dream rifle....AR's are not a complicated as you think.

+1 on the 17 rounders if you have ever had the misfourtune to cram 11 into a 10 rounder you'll know it. It is almost impossible to load into and make stay! Plus the 17's are so much faster to load...just make sure to put the one with eleven in the pocket to rack in.

I didn't catch the type of gun you are shooting because i just scanned the posts. But, if you have a 1911 type pistol they do make an index finger mag release button.....It would solve the regrip problem. I have never used one and they may be somewhat costly (cheaper than dry cleaning for your friends:) ) I looked at them when I first started, as I too have stubby fingers and fat thick palms that cause me to have to regrip slightly. http://smithandalexander.com/guides.html#mag-release

You can use clays for minor power loads and they will be nice. You will however overpressure before you make major, because the glock lengths are not long enough to counteract the pressure. Many of the top shooters in the world use clays,but they do so in S-i's which alow lengths in the 1.225 range. They ride a thin line and if your loader drops one too heavy ...boom. Another bad trait of clays is it is very sensitive to static and will meter poorly.

I got a DMW for my 1100 from Chuck at Shooters Connection and it is a really sharp unit. My gun had the two indents in the metal feed tube for the plastic unit that holds the spring in when you take off the grips and barrel. Put the extention on the first time and could only get 5 in...then found the problem and the dremel fixed it. Holds 8 and one in the pipe. Ran it the next day in my first 3-gun and it ran perfect. Just need to blue lock tite it from spinning loose. I also got the Easy loader he makes and it makes a huge difference! If you get the easy loader have your smith put it on...major pain in the a** for someone not familiar with how everything works inside...and I have fat fingers.

Don't cut down your front sight gas block! If you have a fixed sight gas block that came on the gun, it was fitted at the factory with the roll pins. If you ever want to sell the gun or it's intended use changes you can put it right back on and it will be set for windage (for the most part). Find a gas block at a show to cut down, or order a low profile. I think you will be happy you did later. JP gas blocks are great, and you may want to consider a Yankee Hill Machine flip up front to have the look and the function.

I shoot a 1911 grip angle also, but love Glocks......yes they have a different grip angle but it is minor at 7yrds (combat distance). I had an XD 9 once and had to put a grip sleeve on it to get it to point right. If you get an XD you will need to change the sights to get it to hit like you expect, because if I remember correct they use a behind the dot sight in...not a top of the post. Plus the trigger is different than a glock. I have short fingers big palm so everything is a personal observation.

I run the dillon dies and they are fine. I load for a Glock, as well as a 40 STI Edge and have had no problems in either. I buy surplus brass from a local police range and it is mostly Glock brass. The bulging brass is mostly from older 40 guns and not the newer ones. I check the stuff from my G24 and it is not bulged anymore than normal for an average tightness chamber. Many of the guys here shoot the fancey AET (tight as h*ll) jammy if not rollsized barrels........my factory STI and Glock barrels run just fine. I use a 550 and if you set it up right, there is no need for a die to fix problems at the last stage because there will be few if any! +1 on the One Shot lube for the brass...so smooth it's like cheating:)

I'm a little late to this post but I run a 12.5 progressive spring from Wolf that I got from Bob at Brazos on a Tungsten rod in a 40 Edge. It has a light 1st 1/2" and then tightens up, just like a recoil master but better.