Coleman

When reloading 9mm brass on my 650 I am getting scratched brass from my dillon carbide sizing die, Last time I took the resize die out and used a brass brush to get little bits of brass siezed to my resizing die, it was doing fine then it started doing it again. The brass I am using is a mix of once fired brass some nickel and brass that has been resized with the same die. The brass goes thru the tumbler with walnut hulls with nufinsh car wax and I have been using silicone spray in a plastic sack to add a little bit more lubrication to the case( I am spraying the inside of plastic bag first then letting it dry then adding brass and mix it up). What am i doing wrong? Thanks Coleman

Good 1-6 vid on youtube for complete disasembly and reasembly. Its not that hard just have to watch each vid a few times and do it step by step, just take your time.

Thanks for the reply's. Coleman

Take a marker and blacken the case and mark top of case, but in mag with top of case up and cycle by hand, it will show you which feed ramp/s need to be deburred. I used a small honing stone to deburr mine then followed by a cratex tip in the dremel to smooth it out better. watch the shank of the dremel so it dont hit the inside of the reciever.

Late last year i picked up like new M1 super90 with 18 1/2" barrel. I am going to add a Briley 4" barrel extension in the future. The gun will be used for 3 gun and hunting. I am not very crazy about the ghost ring sites on the gun. I use to have a older HK M1s90 shotgun with a 24" vent rib that i loved that gun, but it got stolen. I dont want to spend the $$$ on a new barrel The question i have is what is my options for better front and rear sight? Thanks Coleman

I just got done reloading 223 on my new 650 using H335/ 24grains of powder, I got ball powder everwhere, I was even waiting a count of 2 or picking up a bullet before i lowered the ram which should be plenty of time to get the powder down the powder funnel tube which is polished inside and out. I forgot to put a strip of dryer sheet in the powder measure to elimanate static build up. I was wondering if anybody put a ground wire on thier press to help prevent static build up? Or use anti static spray? Thanks Coleman

Thanks for the reply's I will get a small base sizer die then. Coleman

Dave, Thanks for the response i will order one next year. Thanks Coleman

I finally got around to clean off my reloading bench this morning from swithching over from a 550 to a 650. I was wondering how do you store your casefeeder shell plates? I dont have a good place to put them, Can i drill a small hole in them and hang on the wall? or what else can i do? Thanks Coleman

I am getting ready to resize my once fired 308 LC brass on my 650xl. I just got done with 2k of 223 brass. I have the dillon carbide 308 resizing die and dillon case gage. Being this brass probally was shot thru a machine gun with a loose chamber. The question i have do I need to have another resizing die when doing the case prep? or will one be good enough? Most of the 308 i reload will go thru a dpms 308 rifle, but other will be thru a m1A supermatch and probally a fal also. I will be using a dillon RT1200 rapid trim in the 650xl to get it done, it worked very will with 223 brass. Thanks Coleman

Thanks i will wait for you answer before i order on also.

I am in the same position you are in. Wanting a little longer barrel but without the expense of a new barrel.

I was a 550 user since the 90's and had worked fine till now, I have my 11yrs boy and girlfriend shooting, now 400rnd/hr just wasnt cutting it even tho i had the 550 tuned like silk and polished everything. Last month i went and got a 650 with casefeeder and the extras. was it worth it? Yes, but thier is a learning curve which i am still learning it. not having to handle a 9mm case with fingers cramping up Great! Crimped primers suck. I didnt get the powder check die yet, for pistol moved powder die to station 3 so i can put a bullet in right away and check powder drop. Last week i set it up to size and deprime and trimm 223 with the dillon trimmer on the 650, after it was set and not having to handle a lubed case it was priceless! I did about 150 shell in about 15 minutes I know is slow by some but worth it to me. In the long run it will pay off. If you load a extra 200 - 400 rnd a hr or more figure out how many hrs a year you save and you will cut your reloading time in half, What are you going to do with the extra time? Just my opinion Coleman

I was told(cant verify) that corrosive berdan primers are more reliable in very cold wheather conditions. Maybee that is it not for sure.

Might try soaking in methel ethek keytone MEK ( i know i didnt spell it right) it will eat plastic and paint.Try soaking a hardened piece of jb weld first and see if it softens it up.

Not sure on the 2 piece nut. I replaced my lead screw with ball screw. My lead screw was very worn, so a new nut woulnt help much on the backlash and to replace the lead screw was $$$. So I looked at a ballscrew retro kit it was about the same $$$ as replacing 2 nuts and a leadscrew. I havent been happier with the ballscrew. I can climb mill ,it is alot smoother. It just makes it nicer. Coleman

http://www.rvow.com/ Are they still in business? website has not been updated since 2005.

Yes thier is a market for it. Over at the castboolits web site they are swaging bullets from 5.7 x 28 brass.

I took of my shell plate off the ram to give it a good cleaning, it needed it. When i put it back on thier is a little bit of rotational movement left and right. How is the best way to get it alignment right of the shell plate it can be off as much as 1/8" at the dies. Do you just center the holes up with the screws? Thanks Coleman

Thanks for all the reply's! I will try them when i get time. Coleman

I am getting alot of fouling out of my cases and looking very dirty. I am shooting HK USP 9mm with 115 gr MG bullet with 4.5 gr of unique with taper crimp. The other day my USP was Failing to eject the case about 8 out of 100 rnds, I have put about 800rnds thru it. Whe i took it apart tonight if found out why it was FTE, the ejector was full of carbon and not grabbing the case like it should. I am using mixed case mfg. Do I need to adjust my powder charge? or more of a crimp on my cases. I use unique in 40 S&W and not much of a problem, and I would like to stick with one powder if possible. Any Help? Thanks Coleman

Thanks for the replies, I will have to try them next time i reload. Coleman

All shells are gettin a primer seated in them. (except for the ones i miss. LOL) I reloaded 200 yesteday morning and didnt miss one primer, but still had flakes. I will pull the shell plate off this morning and clean it up and see what it looks like after 1200rnds.

When reloading 9mm I am getting powder flakes in my primer seating punch at random intervals, Powder is getting between the shell plate and base. It only takes a little bit of time to clean them out with a small acid brush. I am trying to resolve this problem, The press has been fine tuned to run like a champ. I am using Unique powder at 4.5 grains not doing speed loading 100rnd in 12-15 minutes just a smooth steady pace. The only thing i havent done yet is take a taper reamer to the inside of the powder funnel to smooth it up. I was wondering if i cut a small slot in the plate between station 4 and 1 to act as a powder collector or dirt trap. Not a big slot maybee like a 1/8 ballnose endmill but not going thru, being nothing is going from station 4-1 it wont get hung up on anything. Or am I missing something else? Yes i have a bridgeport mill to do the job if needed. Thanks Coleman

I bought the dies in the early 90's when hornady came out with the TIN coating on the sizing die and wanted to try it, it worked great. I reloaded about 6k on the dies and it still looks good. I got dillon dies now and not looking back. Thanks Coleman