Sac Law Man

I dont mind the fees. At the last few S&W indoor Natls they raffled off 20 guns, gave out bags with logo and a challange coin. Not to mention cocktail parties and an awesome dinner. These add up. In my opinion it was well worth it. Plus that match was held over 5 days so the fees to use the facility are greater. If I do pay that much, I expect nice awards. I shot a state match in the NW the last few years and the DC plaques were nice, but all of the other awards were paper certificates. If I pay $100 and get a paper certificate that you printed at home, thats BS.. The new rule book addresses this though.. At this years CA State match our fee is $100. We are giving away 5 guns and 3 Dillons (2 650s and 1 550) that we had to pay for .. Every shooter will get a door prize (some are gifts worth sev hundred dollars), a dog tag, and the awards are really nice, so the shooter is going to recoop most of their fee.

Practice getting into positions and leaving positions and being ready to fire an accurate shot. Becoming efficient here will save you time. Picking out markers on the ground works great in a USPSA match with 30+ rounds and 4-5 shooting positions, but In IDPA its to short and too fast to really make a difference, so I personally dont generally recommend it. I would rather use my time visually finding the next target. Heres a drill... Set up 3 barricades at 20, 16 and 12 yards. Stagger them so the right edge of the 20 yard barricade is even with the left side of the 16 yard one. The 12 can be even with the 20. Have 2 poppers downrange, set not to fall. The poppers should be 6-8 yards apart, centered off the 16 yard barricade. Start at the 20 yard barricade, either right or left side,, At signal fire 2 rounds at the popper on the side you started on, call your shots. After 2 hits move to the opposite side of the 16 yard barricade and repeat. Repeat again at 12. The key is to not rush your second shot.. most do because they want to move faster. The Steel keeps you honest so to speak. I also like steel because I dont have to tape. Once you call your second shot and its a hit, explode to the next position. Keeo the gun up.. With these short distances most will keep both hands on the gun. Be ready to fire as soon as you plant your feet at the next position. This type of drill can be shot so many ways...

In a self defensive scenario, Glocks are hard to beat. The Glock 19 has a 15 round mag capacity, it's light weight and shoots very well. I prefer a 1911 but for everyday carryall G19 is hard to beat.

Grip strength is relative to the shooter.. 80% to one person may be the equivalent of 50% to another. Also, more grip pressure may be needed when shooting a 1911 in 45, versus a soft shooting Glock 9mm. You want to grip the gun as hard as you can but not cause shaking or affect your trigger pull. Shoot a drill like a Bill Drill with factory 45 ammo and you will see what grip strength is needed to control recoil and negate the effects of trigger pull.

I tried shooting a Glock in competition, both a 17 and 34... I chanegd out the triggers, connectors, springs and installed a KKM match barrel. I thought the triggers felt pretty damn good.. The only problem was I didnt shoot them well. Accuracy poential was there, but off a rest at 25 yards, my best groups were still 4-5 inches. During matches, shooting fast splits, my hits were awful. I carry a Glock 17 on duty and carry a 19 off duty and shoot them both extremely well. All I could surmise was the guns shoot their best stock. Needless to say, I went back to my 1911's in competition.

I am gunna share something that works for me.. If I were shooting head shots at a USPSA/IDPA target at 25 yards working on accuracy, I will hit the head every time if I grip the gun (G34) firmly and pull all the way through.. No staging at all. In fact, I can pull the trigger pretty quick and still make accurate shots. When I stage and try to be deliberate, I end up missing. Try it.

Check your resizing die and make sure you are sizing the entire case. As noted above casings from Glock barrels get a bulge down near the rim.

Are you shooting lead, and is the lead getting shaved off during the seating process?

There are many reasons,, here are a few,, Righties have an easier time shooting left to right, their non dominant eye can pick up the next target faster. Also, most handguns will recoil up and to the right which aids in transitions when shooting left to right.

As Nitro stated above...Try and keep your upper body and arms together, move from the waist using a turret motion. Watch videos of Ben Stoeger he keeps his upper body very still, and only moves at the waist, almost robotic.. I agree that this will help you..

The grip doesnt lift the pinky off the grips, it pulls the bottom portion of the palm off the grip and outward. Torquing the elbows out may help you, and it may not. It works for Bob, but everyone is different. Factors such as hand size, strength, and caliber may be factors that affect the effectivness of this hold.

Agreed.. The issue I have with torquing the elbows out is it basically takes the portion of your palm below your pinky off the gun. Vogel admits that as well. This may be ok with a 9mm, but shooting a 45 I want as much contact with the grip as I can get. I like gripping hard too.

There is video of Stoeger and Vogel doing it around 3 seconds.. Also, Ben did it from 10-15 yards under the time limit and barely missed at 25 yards with all good hits. That was impressive.

There is no secret to Vogels grip,, it works for his hand size and mechanics. Bob is not a great shooter because of his grip and copying it really wont do you any good since its pretty unorthodox. Stick to the fundamentals and what feels natural to you, not waht works for Vogel and feels odd to you. Just my 2 cents

will do..

Thanks

I am switching to WSF.. do you mind telling me your load data..?

Ive been loading 147 gr Moly coated bullets behind 3.1 grains of N310 at 1.135 OAL making 134 PF. The round is super soft, smokes very little and is amazingly clean. Gun is a Gen 4, G34 with KKM Match barrel. Thats the good part. Bad part.. Every 10 or so rounds is not flying straight,, they arent tumbling, but the grease ring is heavy on one side and my hole looks oval. Also, accuracy is fair at best. From a rest im getting sporadic results at 25 yards with groups averaging around 4-5 inches with frequent fliers. A few days ago I was at the range and I brought my carry gun, a G19 to run some factory ammo through, Fed HST 147+P and a box of 115 gr factory FMJ. I shot the G19 from the rest at 25 yards and my groups were smaller than my G34. This occurred with both rounds. I then tried shooting the two factory ammo types out of my 34 and the groups shrunk in half and were nicely centered where I was aiming. I have heard shooters loading 9mm with N310 have experienced marginal accuracy, and when they swithced to a slower powder their groups shrunk in half. I am trying to diagnose the accuracy issue.. any help would be appreicated.

Steve,, look up autogenic breathing exercises...

For me, the key is to get the mag to the magwell as fast as possible. Sort of like lining them up, then pausing, then seating the mag. However, its all in one motion though. Just as important is seeing the mag into the magwell. Every time I flub a reload, I can usually recognize I was not focused on the magwell.

Most shooters new to Glocks will shoot 2-3 inches left at 15 to 20 yards if they are right handed, and 2-3 inches right if they are lefty. Most will agree that this is the result of the trigger. There are many out there who feel the trigger must be stagged and then pulled through, then there are the others that dont feel the need to reset the sear, but instead allow the trigger to release all the way, then pulled straight through to fire. Is there one best way to fire a Glock, or does it depend on the individual? Thoughts

I have both the Sevigny sights and TTI.. I started out with the 215 front on the Sevigny and had to switch to the 245. Now it shoots POA/POI at 25 yards, perfect. I have the TTI on my other Glock 34 and it shoots high for me. I like the look of the TTI, but at longer ranges they are harder to shoot accurately for me, so the Sevigny sights get the nod.

Glad to hear it worked out..

The shots grouping left and not consistent can be a sign of the shooter not being used to the Glock trigger. Many shooters new to Glocks mistakenly try to stage the trigger instead of pulling straight through. I know there are those that tell you to take out the slack, reset the sear then fire, but in my experience, this leads to erratic accuracy. This works find for 1911's and other gun, but not Glocks. Shooters who then pull through the trigger smoothly tend to shrink their groups considerably and thier shots will hit their mark. I would recommend anyone having accuracy issues to first figure out the trigger pull.

They are high cap mags loaded to 10 rounds, so downloading wont make a difference.. I am using Vickers Tac base pads. They are a bit thicker and when inserted during a reload, they bump the bottom of the magwell. I was told this could be the culprit...