slavex

Oooh, the chassis stuff is new info! Really looking forward to more info on that, would love to see pics of one taking apart.

@Maximis228 are you lubing rifle or pistol brass? I found that once I rolled my brass I no longer needed to lube it, but it's 9mm brass. And I can process it with a "0" clutch setting on the 1050 Pro. Same on the Revolution

I am so used to the scale I got a couple years ago going to 0.01 accuracy I forget that a lot of the other scales out there don't. The powder measure is no longer affected by the speed of the press like the older one was. I'm guessing the reduced cavity size in the pistol drum is the reason why, along with the double tap at the top of the drump stroke. Something I'd love is the ability to throw powder with a simple press on the tablet, with the digital measure lifted up high enough to trigger a dump (activating the micro switch). Would be great for dialing in the measure.

I load at 2500 constantly with a 2 index, which gives me about 2460 or something. Any slower seems like a waste of the machine and doesn't give me any increase in accuracy of the produced round. Now, right now I'm in mostly practice mode, and might try loading some match stuff at a slower speed later this spring/summer, just to double check that statement, but in my tests so far, it's no different, just slower. Over 2500 though, that's a nope. I have the primer collator setup and above 2500 the primers get flung onto their sides as the disc indexes them into position, causing jams and wrecking the primers. No problem decapping at 3500 and sizing, but I mostly do that over on my RL 1050 MK7 Pro, at a wimpy 2400 rounds an hour, cuz I'm too cheap to do the upgrade to the newer motor. Eventually that will be an Evo Pro though, running at 3500/hr just gotta get the funds sorted for that.

I'm just lazy, hated pulling the handle, also wanted more consistent working of the machine vs my handle pulling.

yeah sorry, of course it would depend on what you're loading. I was loading 9mm with Tightgroup and also 5,000 rounds with WSF for the GF. And yup priming as well. I actually had a Federal primer light off tonight, went in cockeyed and detonated on the index to the primer orientation sensor. First time that's happened. I spent 9hrs total loading, but that included swapping out the powder measure for the GF's loads, a snack break and a phone call where I shut it down.

@Maximis228 After running the unit empty there are no primers stuck in the channels, I saw the ones you mention, but once I was done loading tubes the machine was completely empty, so they eventually fell out.

@Stickman301 only 0.5gr accurate? My digital measure is accurate to 0.02gr. Loaded almost 20,000 rounds tonight and it never varied more than that, and if it did vary it was high by 0.02gr

And now with Federal SPP

Here's mine running the Ginex primers

I used to clean my RF100 all the time, even Federals left a smear of dust in the bowl of it. It's like people forget all the threads on tuning it, or the FA hand held unit. It's a no win situation for companies. Don't make new products and people bitch, make new products and people bitch.

received mine today, Tested it for 5hrs with S&B, Federal and Ginex. Ginex are the only primers that give it problems, and they give the RF100, FA primer, and my Revolution collator issues too. First problem is they are very dirty primers, lots of dust, which causes issues with all the various systems I have, as well they are not super uniform in size or shape. I get the odd one that will not drop through the hole, or down the ramp, issues I also have with the other systems. But I get them for free, so I will make due. With the Feds and S&Bs it runs 100%, mine also has the scoring in the ramp that Saul mentions newer models will have as it came directly from DAA in Holland. I did have to spend some time cleaning after running the Ginex primers through it as they left a lot of dust in the system and other debris too. I did not need to use the V2 plate with any of the 3 brands I tried as they all fed through the V1 plate.

Pretty sure is a set screw on yours too, it's just on the underside of the ram. 90 degrees from the one i drilled and tapped in on the front.

@tha1000 sorry missed that. very strange.

a spring attached to a washer under your lock die and attached to the brass cylinder, like Armanov sells, should cure that issue. Any sideways pressure on the bullet dropper will cause it hangup like that occasionally. Having something that pulls it back into place stops that.

@mikamarj my press is a first gen Revo, the top pin has a bearing on the motor side of the crank, it rides on a guide at the back the machine core, you can see that in my 3rd pic with the red grease on it in the top left of the pic, it was originally thought it was needed to stop the main column from twisting as the toolhead went up and came down. that has been removed in later models. My top pin has a small groove machined in it (from the factory) that the set screw engages, I guess the original setscrew walked a bit which allowed the top pin to drift out and contact the inside of my core. When I removed the screw to do this job, it was tight in place, but not engaging the pin, but you could see it had at one time. now there are two screws holding the top pin in place. so it only rotates in the bushings on the crank arms, not in the main column, it is held solid there.

Here you go

fitting new bushing into the crank wouldn't be that hard to do without all that, you just need patience and maybe a small arbor press, but you could do with a proper sized punch and hammer if you were careful. Given the location of the pin and such I can see why they didn't put a grease fitting there though. I would expect that they may do exchanges where you get a new crank and pin, install, send old one back for rebuild. But really, it should take millions of cycles before you'll see any appreciable wear on it. I know the bronze bushings at work lasted for a long time, with some serious workload on them.

Do the new machines have a way to lube the top pin? I'm not too concerned about it honestly. I can replace the brash bushings and the pin itself pretty easy if I need to. I know it's not ideal for a setup, I suppose I could always machine it to take a couple small bearings on the crank and then put grease fittings on each side to lube them, be a bit of a pain, but I have a couple buddies with serious shops who "love" to do odd jobs for me. (that love is paid for in 2lb steaks cooked by me for them lol). My old work had a number of similar setups on some of our equipment and the brash bushings last a helluva long time. I'll have to take a look at my friends Evo Pro, hadn't thought to look into it's guts and see if they'd added a grease fitting there. One thing I was surprised by was the lack of a bearing on the motor side of the Revo, but then I took a good look at the gearbox and it's bearing is pretty good, so I guess that's good enough for the support. Still, I'd have left the Evo bearing in place if it had been me, and just had it sandwiched between the motor and the core.

What sensors did you end up getting it with? All of them? Digital powder measure? I was down loading tonight with a friend and cranked out 4,000 rounds so friggin easy and relaxing. All we did was watch for upside down primers coming down from the collator, the Ginex primers seem to like to sneak down more than others don't know why. S&B, Federal, CCI feed down a lot better.

Yes, that is the one. Newer models have it in the same spot as I put it. It was fun to rip it apart and fix. Handy having friends with mills and lathes and such, although in the end we just used his big ass drill press and powered tap.

since the tablet interface is identical as far as how you do things, going from the 1050 to the Revo was easy. I have had the machine completely apart now as I had a set screw comes loose and needed to drill and tap an easily accessible one in instead. That meant removing the motor, the crank and main shaft. Was fun, took some cursing, but it went back together easy. I then had to play around a bit to get it dialed back in, but now it's running even better than it did before. I also bought a second digital powder measure for the girlfriend, as she uses a different powder than I do, and I don't like messing around with dialing stuff back in, I leave the measures set and go to town. Well worth the cost in my experience, I will probably get a couple more for other people that come over and load, so we aren't using the same measures for them. I also love the big case feeder, but I never change calibres. I'd keep it for your main calibre and then just use a Dillon or something for other calibres. I have every sensor on the machine and love them, the primer orientation sensor especially. Man it saves a lot of time having that. I'd still love one that detected upside down primers coming down the ramp from the collator and could reject them, but for now that's all I watch when it's running.

My Revo was a bit of a problem child as I was a first adopter. But, I've gotten all the new parts and upgrades to the system and it has been running friggin great since. 13,000 rounds loaded with nary a problem. It is awesome. I still have a my automated 1050 (also MK7) and I use it for processing only.

that probably means you have some upside down bullets coming through, I've had that happen, one upside down bullets can let a whole bunch spew through

Awesome Saul!!!!! Looking forward to getting the feeder!!!!