Glen

As an update to the above pictures ... I made a new lever out of ABS plastic that makes it possible to unlock the gun on the draw. This shows the lever that replaces the original CR lever. This is what it looks like installed and in the locked position. It locks as well as the previous method. I will have to get used to hitting the release on the draw, but that doesn't seem to be an issue so far. It took about an hour to make and adjust (mostly adjust). Glen

Yes. The rest of the "shroud" is just a mount for that cross member. Glen

This is a derail from the holster thread wherein the locking holsters don't seem to lock. A CR holster has a profiled tit (teat) that goes inside the trigger guard and controls the entry and exit of the trigger guard from the holster. An L-shaped plastic lever rotates, to either allow or disallow the tit to flex sideways. If the tit cannot flex sideways, then the gun cannot be drawn. However, because of the materials and construction used, the lever can be overridden. I made shrouds for my CR holsters so that when they are locked the tit will not flex sideways. It is a piece of extruded square aluminum tubing with some holes cut and drilled into it. The main feature is a band of metal that prevents any sideways flexing from occuring when the lever is in the locked position. The rest is just mount. The pictures are of a righthand holster converted to lefthand operation. The lever is now on the wrong side since I changed to left hand. The large window is to allow the insertion or removal of a different tit if I change guns. You can see the metal band that keeps the lever from flexing sideways. This view shows the spacers used to position the shroud. Glen

Glen, Have you posted about your modifications before? That would make for an interesting read...especially with pictures. ('cause I read better with pictures? ) It would make a good thread on it's own! I'll start a thread in the Gear and Accessories section. With a few pictures. Glen

When I first found the BE forum, there were many threads on gun retention. It got me concerned, not so much for the safety aspect as from the embarassment. I have added "shrouds" to my CR Speed holsters, made from square aluminum tubing. When my holster is locked, the gun cannot be removed without breaking the holster. You would have to tear off the CR locking doo-hicky to pull the gun. Glen

+1 on the superglue technique. The apparent "dot" is smaller this way as well. Glen

Another slight drift for Bongo. If you get involved with USPSA rifle and/or shotgun, you will find that rule 5.2.1.1 mandates the use of a chamber flag. Many (most?) non-USPSA matches don't require them, but you should be aware of their existence. Glen

To steal a quote from an expert ... Glen

At first glance, I completely misread this thread title. ... Avoid Choking ...... posted by EarMeerkats. Glen

Is this what you're looking for? Glen

Yes, I've thought about it. We pound on the under lugs and slide stop pin every time we fire the gun. Many thousands of rounds worth. I don't expect the parts to fail by dropping the slide on an empty chamber. There isn't enough of an energy difference (between the two situations) to do that. I seldom do it , but I don't chastise myself if I do. Glen

I've never been concerned about dropping the slide on an empty chamber, either deliberately or when run dry. When the slide is on its forward motion, the trigger is disconnected from the hammer/sear assembly before the slide picks up another round, or not, as the case may be. This disconnection continues until the slide is back in battery. Dropping the slide isn't going to affect anything unless your trigger job was defective to begin with ie. the sear pops out of the hammer hooks from the impact. Glen

Welcome to this forum (and to Global as well). There's a huge fund of information here. Oh foo .... XRe beat me to the rest. (gotta type faster) Glen

All any one has to do is google "Antibiotic Resistance" or "Herbicide Resistant Weeds" and make up their own minds. ID has no explanatory power for either. This thread should be closed before it gets divisive. Glen

You are correct.

Ok ... you have a round with a primer in backwards (not sideways, as I haven't investigated them). You chamber it and "fire" the round. Clearly there are some consequences due to the inverted primer. Do any of these consequences rise to the level of unsafe? For sure an inverted primer will not ignite the powder, so the problems associated with firing a round also won't exist. ie. squibs, too much power, not enough power, cracked cases ... That leaves the primer itself. The primer cup isn't going anywhere as it is in the primer pocket and will actually be pushed into it, sealing the flash hole. The primer anvil is a different story. It vanishes. Blown apart and spread with no noticeable residue throughout the interior of the gun. I don't think there is enough energy in the primer to obliterate the anvil and still have some left over to cause other damage. Comments would be appreciated on this issue. When the inverted primer pops, there is a sharp sound and a very small puff of smoke. The last one is the lead compounds used in non-NT primers. The inverted primer will have these lead compounds vented near the shooter rather than in a downrange direction. As bad as shooting indoors? None of these consequences rise to the level of unsafe. When an inverted primer pops, it's unxepected but it isn't unsafe. We shouldn't conflate the two. Glen

Here's the steps RS should be using ... 1) Un-ammo just outside the safe area. You have the whole range except the safe areas to do this. Not just your car. 2) Re-configure your equipment in the safe area, including reholstering. 3) Step outside the safe area and re-ammo. 4) Go to the next stage. Glen

In regards to the OP, it would be a DQ. You must have your gun cased, or in a gun rug, or in a range bag before entering the match area. For the rest of the discussion ... I don't understand the difficulty in changing equipment configurations. Just before entering the safe area, I put all my ammo in my range bag or in my cart. I step into the safe area and make my changes. I step out of the safe area and re-ammo as required. No way would I be walking back and forth to my truck. Too much like exercise. Glen

For me, the cold weather solution is to wear gauntlet-style mitts with skintight cotton gloves inside. At the LAMR I toss the mitts and carry on. My guns have lots of grip tape so there is no worry that the cotton gloves won't stick. The difficulty is re-adjusting my grip as the cotton glove grip tape method works almost too well. Glen

I have a date for some rifle practice today. It's -20 F as I type this. Two years ago, in February, I shot a 3gun match in about the same temperatures. Lots of hardy people around the burning barrels. Cold is when you have to break off the yellow icicle after you piss. Glen

Super glue for me too. Glen

I used a soldering iron to heat the hex screw heads. I had to re-zero. Glen

To add to AikiDale's post .... C. Get as much knowledgeable instruction as you can. D. Practice handling the gun, relentlessly, until it is a part of you, just like another finger on your hand. Familiarity breeds certainty. Glen

I use ammunition boxes with labels made from pasters. New brass is not in a marked box. Fire the new stuff, clean it, and put it in a pail with a paper having the number 1 on it. The number in the pail of brass waiting for a reload is the number of times it has been fired. At some point you're getting low on new loads, so load some of the 1 brass and put it in an ammo box with a 1 on it. Use up the new loads and segregate the brass in a zip-lok bag. Now shoot the 1 loads and also segregate them in a zip-lok. When you get home, clean the new loads and dump them in the 1 pail waiting for reloading. And so on. Often you will have two numbered loads in your possession. Shoot the lowest ones first and segregate the brass. Then shoot the higher numbered loads. This is for 38 super brass at 180+ power factor. Glen

Pharaoh ..... You have indicated in another thread that you are going to to the World Shoot Qualifier. Some of this match is going to be shot under IPSC rules so I would think that you should get a ruling from IPSC, not just USPSA, or fix your gun prior to the match. This is reminiscent of the Adam T incident at the last world shoot. You don't need that grief and aggravation. Of course none of this applies if you are not shooting production. Glen