Patrick1981

Daniele it's an Italian revo shooter like me, I said to him: you bought a Rhino ? I don't know this revo Only shoot 2-3 times, but I prefer S&W

Daniele ti sei fatto il rinocerontee ! Non me ne intendo

Primers are really deep seated, in first shoot brasses

Look at the wrong position of the plunger.. http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/6800/damagedcylinderscrew.jpg

Toolguy, the bullets are ok, exactly for this thing, before start reloading I give another 3/4 turn down to bullet/crimp die to make the right OAL. This evening (here now is 2'00 AM) when I going to cinema to see Hand of Watch (I like it really), I think another possible cause.. I remember that the cylinder screw (like S&W new style with a little spring inside and a plunger) maybe was damaged.. When unscrew the screw come out disassembly..well, excusme for my spaghetti english ahah So..the plunger with the spring is again in the hole, to take it, I rotate the gun and they fall in my hand.. Maybe the screw was broken and in fact it's strange shorter and not perfectly surface at the end.. I have this doubt.. what do you think?

With this theory..the hard to cock hammer condition is when the cylinder is back (to me) or front to the barrel? Thanks Toothguy

Hello guys, this time I have a serious problem to be solved for a close friend, I hope someone can help me. To begin with, I want to say that I am a S&W fan and I had not recommended to take a Taurus 627, used in this case. Unfortunately he bought it. The revolver is a Taurus 627, cal 357, 7 shots. To begin the timing is not great, but still acceptable. Using the original main spring has also had some missfire with CCI primers, but I think the problems are different. We have found that a drum full of live ammunition, sometimes gets hard to cock the single action in particular. Instead if I put 7 shells fired the problem of binding is gone. The cylinder had a little bit endshake, but I know only S&W mechanical and I noticed that the Taurus yoke-cylinder assembly is not easy to open and contains many more parts. On web there is not a detailed explanation of how you can do to open yoke-cylinder assembly or to remove Taurus endshake. The firing pin (like S&W new style, inside the frame) seems to me that come back well after firing. I'm thinking if there could be a game of high-low side and that the ammunition with the weight can shift slightly ratchet position and create problems, with shells fired are not there. However, the system of centering extractor is like S&W old type with two small central pivots and then perhaps not what .. Ratchet and hand have no perceptible signs of wear. Summing up the gun unloaded or loaded with shells seems to runs well.. If there are loads rounds with these problems of cock and missfire. I attach some pictures, but I'll do better and useful of cylinder, ratchet etc.. in the coming days as soon as I see my friend. Thank you for your patience. http://img542.images.../taurus6271.jpg http://imageshack.us...taurusparts.jpg http://imageshack.us.../taurushand.jpg http://imageshack.us...usexploited.jpg http://imageshack.us...eframeschem.jpg

Don't buy the Safariland single speedloader holster, it's good only for loose your rounds on the ground.. And also..if you want to shoot some Idpa match, not Idpa legal. 3X holster is also good, but if you find the TKW speedloader holster, my opinion is the best

Thank you all guys, really good tips

Just finish to polish and reassembly the Taurus 627. Another question about it.. Even when we went to pick her up I realized that the timing was at the limit and I'm reminded of Carmoney's words "they did develop a reputation for going out of time very quickly" Well.. I did some work before this summer on the yoke with the laser welder and has held up very well, it could be good to add a lightweight material on hand and then take it with a file to correct height, to making like a oversize hand ?

Thanks This Taurus is the model 627 and I see this model has a lot of piece than this one in the pics exploited The completed full assembly cylinder and yoke is 16 pieces With the new forum style I can't find the way to attach pics

I want to help you, but I think the powder that I use here in Italy you can't find in USA. Nobel GM3 or the old Nitrokemia Rex32

A local gunsmith say to me " Taurus cylinder full disassembly it's a HOT job " Advice to me, put the full assembly in fuel for 24 hours and after dry with air and lubricate He said: is bettere dont' try to open it, reassembly it's very difficult

It's incredible..the cylinder is soo "gritty", for you an easy but not final solution can be put the cylinder-yoke assembly in a ultrasonic cleaner, rise well in demineralized water, dry with compressed air and filling with some brake free oil from the hole down on the extractor?

Yes, but I haven't see a video where someone remove the yoke crane from the cilynder. It's not like S&W....after unscrew the yoke screw, the cylinder and the yoke comes out but it not pop-out, but it's one solid piece.

Anyone know the way and a site where I can see the tecnique for removing the cylinder from a joke on a Taurus 627? My friend just buy one, his first wheelgun and I can't help him. Thanks

I think with a reduced firing pin spring and one piece 0,002" endshake shim you are OK Anyway check the strainscrew.. a few blue loctite or a drop of nail paint to stop it.

In effetti Daniele, su Midway vedo solo per il 38/357 da 7 e 8 colpi. Non saprei

Thanks Toolguy

Hi guys, my friend need a moonclip for his new 625, I have no moonclipped revos, and I find this one on Midway. In the description I read mod. 25-2, isn't good to fit the 625 ? Thanks a lot http://www.midwayitalia.it/epages/MidwayItalia.sf/it_IT/?ObjectPath=/Shops/MidwayItalia/Products/144819&ff_pos=1&ff_origPos=1&ff_simi=100.0&ff_TrackGUID=509E932B-F864-DD92-CDD1-1414141B4E1E

I use with great satisfaction a 686 SSR in IDPA & ICORE and I love the LPA rear sight with SDM fiber optic front sight 0.300 (0.250 is good for standard rear, but too short for LPA) In the first photo I have also the LPA front but after, I install a SDM like in the last.

I think here in Italy one shooter adapt a N frame JM 625 wood grip to fit on a 686 and work well.

Yes, after the discussion I buy the SDM latch (Idpa legal) but I don't feel good for my finger, only worn skin and blood. Definitely I come back to stock new style latch and go well.

I use a Wolff 11 Lb rebound spring, and cut it 2 circles (thanks 4Mike for advice) and I feel very well. But it depend revo by revo, for example on my 686-2 I feel good with a 12, if I go down I have a slow trigger return. I don't know now exactly how much is, maybe 8 or 9 Lb. In future I want try the Mike idea to use the Taurus spring.

On my revos 6 Lb it's a good compromise with 100% ingition (Federal only) in any temperature condition.