Patrick1981

Yes, I read some days ago but I don't stoning every thing of this parts, trigger notch of the CS and the cylinder stop are original size.

Hi Guys I replay first to Toolguy. No, the problem is not the sear catching. I know what you mean, it happens when I tried to install an old damaged sear have at home.. After I try to cycle the gun without the cylinder stop and the thing seems going well..than I replace the cylinder stop with a new one (love spare parts) but the probem still again.. If I want now I can shoot it, but I'm not satisfied because there are still uncertainties.. I try also with a new sear but this gritty there's again and is not the movement you mentioned, even with the new sear also seems to be fine, strange that full-size sear back to me all the trigger (mysteries). For Tom: I work on the gun only with the older RB slide. Tomorrow I try with it if there's some differences. Thanks guys and excuse me for the low light quality of last video. Tape on the front sight is to prevent a damage of my SDM fiber optic

TOM : Did you remove material from the "nub" on the top of the rebound slide that engages the hammer and moves it back at the end of the trigger return? -No, I remove material on the flat of RB slide and the frame where RB slide work. TOM : A new rebound slide might be a good idea. -I try a new Rb slide have at home for replace, but the problem there's again. Indeed, the reduction was greater in the frame. I HAVE TRIED TO REDUCE THE SEAR HOW DO YOU SAY TOOLGUY TOM AND THE RESULT WAS AMAZING. I almost solved the problem, now the trigger back well and not locks. But I realized that there is a slight jamming as a jump in the very first time after the trigger has touched the sear. It is not the sear moving that's for sure, it is hired well and gradually without skipping. I also realized that this thing known more easily when the weapon is locked with the sideplate rather than open. In the video that I made today known this. Thanks in the meantime you are great http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=lNYVd0Ap9pA

I make a little video to see the problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPmtGCKE390

Ok maybe not 0.012, but shure 0,008 is gone, I control with digital caliper difference from a new RB. With laser soldering can I survive ?

Hi, I resolve the "gritty" but made a bigger mistake. I use a 600 stone to work..and I think I remove so much material..now the reset notch on the RB is little down than the normal position ( seems I remove 0,3 mm. between RB slide base and the frame) and sometime in double action does not reset. Well...it's an Idea add some materials with laser on this notch and after give it the right tall with a stone? Last year I use laser soldering on the yoke retention place damaged (where the screw work) with succesful. Thanks...

Hi guys, after another polishing and another shooting range I hear again the "gritty" when trigger pull. Well..I come home and open the revo, and try the trigger feel removing before the cylinder stop and after the hand. It's defenitely only rebound slide problem. I think and think how was possible to made this marks and maybe it was one day when I closed strong the cylinder after a stage, making a cylinder run in clockwise direction (from me)..maybe the ratchet press on hand>trigger and the pressure make this marks on the trigger rebound slide surface. Damn. This evening I try to put some polishing compound between slide and his running surface and make "front-back" movement a lot of time. Nothing. The problem is still the same. How can I restore a flat surface without an India stone ? Advice ? Thanks.

Watching the pic, it seems like the "protruding nubb" you mentioned it's just total removed.. (I know what you speak about) And in this case I think you got a problem..

WOW that's me in this video with my 686-2 about two years ago How is little the world

Those are pictures from a MIM trigger. You have a tension spring with two side, the shortest one insert in the hole of the trigger. After this, compress with a little screwdriver or other small punch the longest side. At this point insert the hand in trigger thru the holes.. Have a nic job and patience. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/199/mimtrigger4.JPG/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/mimtrigger1.jpg/

In factory they use to fit, a yoke-crane reamer tool to do the perfect lenght to not have endshake (short crane) or bind (long crane) the cilinder after few rounds and give closed-open cylinder issue.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY WARREN !

Thanks guys

Here's the pics http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/820/segnisubaseslitta.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/segnisubaseslittacopia.jpg/ Thanks for any advice

If I found time, I open the 686 next day and post a picture, thanks.

Hello! I have two deep signs on the portion of the frame where the rebound slide work. (the slide now is ok) What is the best job to remove it, polish and maintening a flat surface ? Thanks

If your model 10 is a square butt, try with the inexspensive Pachmayr grip square, open backstrap. I can use Safariland and other speedloader models with this one.

My original hammer work great in couple with is original trigger, it's a bad idea for me..and not cheaper

I search on Brownells but i see no image available and out of stock product. On Midway Italia i find this with "hammer nose bushing", i think this is no the part I need something like a rivet or a pin http://www.midwayitalia.it/epages/MidwayItalia.sf/it_IT/?ObjectPath=/Shops/MidwayItalia/Products/157199&ff_pos=1&ff_origPos=1&ff_simi=99.97&ff_TrackGUID=50E36C81-D3D7-D0FF-AA11-1414141B432A

I can't find on Midway and Brownells this little rivet .. Anyone have the link to the product ?

What size of pin pouch is necessary to not damage this strange pin ?

Anyone says where I can find a good explain for replacing an hammer mounted FP ? Thanks

Ok, but i'm interested on a large speedloader holder ( six to nine speed) for Icore. Look at my link before on 4wheelgun website. For Idpa i'm ok with 3 TKW holster.

I see a video on youtube and for a guy is possible a problem of the rim deformation of the cartridge. He tell try different brand of ammos to find the one give not problems.

What kind of speedloader holster do you use for ICORE retro division? I see on 4wheelguns.com a North Mountain 6 pouches one, and on facebook page relative a 9 pouches one. http://4wheelguns.com/ICORE.html Thanks