Lunker

20 degrees in Southern New Hampshire. I am glad the price of oil is at a long time low. That oil furnace hasn't had a break lately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am a lefty and have a P30 V1 (light LEM), so I am used to the mag release and right side controls on the VP9. The lack of symmetry on the slide release throws me off visually (i.e. looks like a P30 on the right side and a different gun on the left) but doesn't have any impact on my shooting. I too use my trigger finger to work the mag release (big hands, stubby fingers). It is great to have a gun that allows me to release the slide without shifting my grip or using the weak had to slingshot. The trigger on the VP9 is excellent out of the box. Better than my G34, and not quite as good as the Walther PPQ, but not as scary-light either. I had a few accidental doubletaps with the PPQ and sold it afterwards. Considering I shoot other continuous trigger pull guns (P30 LEM and Glock34), having one that had such a lighter trigger pull and much shorter reset than the others seemed like a bad idea. Maybe if it was my one and only. The VP9 has a lower bore than my P30 and a nice sight picture. I can shot it pretty quickly and accurately too when I tried the steel plate rack. I think it points more naturally than my P30. If the VP9 were included in the HK $200 rebate, I would have bought one by now. And it it weren't for the fact that my Glock only has 34 parts, all of which (except the frame) I can order inexpensively and easily replace/assemble, I would have gotten rid of it and bought the VP9.

The P30 is notorious for needing full power loads to break in the recoil spring. There are a number of threads on it on the HKPro forums. Tell your friend to run though 200 rounds of NATO 9mm and see if the situation improves.

My Springfield Loaded never fed the shorter bullets well. 147 worked best.

I ended up using a 38 special +P loading (5 grains W231) and all went well. I am ready to start backing it off to find a softer load. Thanks for all the help.

Thanks tac

Did your dies not come with a spacer? Mine did so I can switch in between the two cartridges.No mine didn't. I only mentioned the second set of dies because I enjoy shooting hot 357 too and don't want to be bothered with always readjusting back and forth. Two sets of 38/357 would be the better solution for me.

Sorry, should've made that clear. I have a ton of 357 brass and don't want to have to always be adjusting my 357 dies back and forth. Stockpiling 38 brass and buying another set of dies is an extra expense I would rather avoid if possible.

I am trying to effectively make 38 special speed loads in 357 brass using 158 grain JHP. With the exception of Trail Boss, none of the min loads in my standard powders (blue dot, bullseye, 2400, longshot, 800X) are below 950-1000 fps. I am hesitant to use 38 Special loads since it may end up as too little powder considering the larger case volume. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

How do folks complete with a 28-2? Mine is almost 41 ounces without grips. I can't use the stock magna grips with a speed loader without chopping a speed loader cut from them, which I would hate to do. My new VZ grips for it put it over the weight limit.

It is possible you are using too little trigger finger and it is pushing your shots to the left. The effect may not be as noticeable on the faster moving 115grain ammo. I used to do that with Glocks when I owned them.

I am getting ready to send my S&W M&P 9L off to Dan Burwell and get his standard trigger job. I want to make it my primary gun-games pistol (IDPA SSP and USPSA Production). I have shot another member's here who had Dan's Competition trigger job and it was scary light (~2 lbs if I had to guess). The standard trigger has the pull at about 4 lbs, which is fine for me. Dan also offers pre-travel reduction and over-travel reduction. I am not getting the pre-travel work because I generally prefer a bit of pre-travel in my guns that don't have a thumb safety. In a 1911, mentally I know that once the safety comes off, any pressure on the trigger means the gun fires. In my non-1911 pistols, I like that I can lightly stage the trigger and have some pull before it goes bang. I don't want a safety-less striker gun that behaves like a 1911. I am curious about the over-travel work. Is there a real advantage? I guess it allows you to get to the reset easier. Anything else? Is there any reason to get or not to get it? The trigger stop is internal, so I believe that it is legal for both disciplines.

Perhaps I will rummage through the rubber grommets at the hardware store to see if a solution presents itself. Thanks for the info.

The title says it all. I have a CZ 85 Combat and even though I'm a lefty, I don't need the right side slide release (I use index finger of my left hand). If it wouldn't work with my setup, would it work with a Kadet slide on my 85 frame?

I had them on my Glock 34. They were good for quick shooting, not for slow precision shooting.

Got rid of my Shadow T. It was too nose heavy for me. Got a new 85 Combat that I need to make a few changes to.

If mag springs don't do it, try new #11 recoil spring.

With another forum member's help, I was able to acquire a NIB M&P 9L. Now I have to do the NJ 30 day wait thing.

Now that the M&P 9L seems to be made of unobtainium, I was considering an M&P Pro 5" in 9mm for gun games. I know that it comes with the competition sear in it (as opposed to the 9L, which comes with the stock sear). Is most of what Mr Burwell does related to reshaping the sear? Would there be a point in sending him an M&P Pro to work on? Thanks

I guess you are looking for people to push you towards the CZ, considering the subforum you posted this in. I owned the CZ Custom Shadow. Beautiful gun and a great shooter, but it just always felt nose heavy to me with that Terminator-looking full length dust cover/front rail. I am actually looking at the CZ Shadow 75 T, which is good for both IDPA and USPSA. http://www.cz-usa.com/products/view/75shadowT/

I guess you guys have convinced me. I look at photos and the only difference looks like the very end of the CZ75 Shadow beavertail is upswept as compared to straight back for the CZ85. I didn't realize it would have much impact in grip position.

Burning, Thanks for the advice. It wasn't so much the actual dollar amount so much as the principle. If the beavertail is not going to improve my shooting, then the $200 is not well spent. If it does help, then it is worthwhile. I was hoping there were folks out there that own/owned both and could tell me if there is a noticeable difference in shootability.

I am currently considering two options: Getting the CZ Custom shop CZ 75 Shadow Target model. Buying a CZ 85 Combat and having it shipped to CZ Custom to have them install the SA/DA hammer, extended firing pin, adjustable rear sight, fiber optic front sight. The CZ85 Combat option comes in about $200 cheaper. I spoke with Rob (?) at CZ Custom and found out the biggest difference is in the frame, with the CZ 75 Shadow having the upswept beavertail. I would use this gun for steel and IDPA. Is the grip difference much? Does it matter much? I have held and shot CZ75's before and have no problem with the ergodynamics. Is the Shadow that much better? It is unlikely I will get the chance to hold the two together in one sitting. Thanks in advance..

Look for crud in the extractor. That happened in my gun. It caused the round in the chamber to not get extracted, and the next round gets crammed in behind it. What stinks most is that Tap, Rack, Bang does not clear this. You need to drop the mag to clear it.

Necessity is the mother of invention.Good luck!