lumpygravy

As long as you are safe and you pay your match fee, you have every right to be there just like anyone else. Make the most of it and enjoy the experience.

Doug is a stand up guy and he'll get you ammo if he can.

on your first match and achieving your goals for the match! Having fun and avoiding any safety violations is where everyone should start.

You're quite welcome. Nothing like spreading the SV love. What ever hammer you choose, you're going to end up with a very nice gun.

ibtl

here you go...

For the most part, hammer profile is a personal choice. I personally have the SH on my limited guns because I never thumb cock and I like the look. Note that even though it is possible to thumb cock with this profile, it's not easy. Brandon at SV has recommended the QB for the lightest/fastest nth degree trigger. The 24oz triggers on my guns with the SH are just fine for me. To a certain degree, the less material used to make a hammer should translate into a faster moving hammer (all other things being equal). A fellow SV owner has the QB that I've shot and I'm not good enough to tell the difference. I have a SS gun coming with the full profile SV hammer. If you have box/size considerations, that might be the real determining factor.

With every passing year, I have to keep reminding myself to remember this, don't forget that, make sure I get this before that.... Pretty soon, I'm going to have a sticky note on the dresser reminding me that I have to put on my pants before my shoes.

Y'all send the rain dance dude this way. CA has been dry since December and the local media has started use of the "D" word....

I have both a BT and a DAA PDR. I like the light weight and slick release of the BT. The PDR is nice too, but now a backup/loaner holster.

Welcome to the Forum! The 650 is a great press. One of the only shooting related items I regret selling. If you find your way to Richmond Rod & Gun Club, they keep a pretty full plate of various shooting activities.

You're already having the frame drilled for a C-More so if you're wanting a two division gun, get a second upper assembly in the open caliber of your choice.

That Edge certainly came out nicely! I like how the frame flutes follow the serration angle. Is that a bull barrel for the single stack build? Does IPSC allow bullies for the Classic division?

Half of me wouldn't mind seeing this in the Humor-fo. The other half of me feels your pain.

Looked like you were having fun today. Keepup with the accuracy and the enthusiasm. The rest will take care itself. Hollar the next time you're headed to the range.

Finally had time to get pics of the CA model I picked up on Monday. It's already on it's way back to SV.... Will post pics of the real deal in the Gallery when it comes in.

I wanted to walk out of "The English Patient". GF wanted to stay. Unfortunately it was a single movie theater - not a multiplex. Afterwards, I mumbled something to the effect of "The cinematography was great but what exactly was that about?" Also "Alien vs. Predator" - No matter who wins, you just lost $10 and two hours....

Hopefully you've heard back from DAA/Saul. If not, you will. I have a RM not a Racer, but I believe the Racer can be disassembled to allow minor fitting. I remember reading elsewhere that the side cover pops off. Whether or not this allows one to fully disassemble the block to widen the slot for the trigger guard, I don't know. How much widening of the block do you need?

A loaner gun and ammo - sounds like you're all set for this weekend! Can't wait to see your XDM. What's the ETA?

Seems to me that it's either the plug or the spring. Did you measure/compare the diameters of the plug vs. the rod as suggested? If you do not have a set of calipers, you might consider a set. They are relatively inexpensive and quite useful when diagnosing annoying little problems like this. However, for this, they are not an absolute necessity. Here's what I would do: Test the plug on the rod with no spring - it should move freely If it doesn't use a sharpie to mark the inside of the plug opening Run it a few more times and then inspect the plug opening Any contact points should be evident Remove any contact points so that they don't interfere with smooth motion Then test with a spring: Install the spring on the rod Use the now fitted plug to compress the spring Because the plug fits and moves freely, all you should feel is the resistance of the spring Observe carefully if the spring compresses/decompresses freely without binding during the test If not, the inside diameter of the springs coils is too tight and you'll have to try a different spring Lastly, since springs were mentioned, did you swap springs in addition to the rod?

After my remodel (in progress), I'm going to have a hot STEAM shower - Booyah!!

I can appreciate that since during a 6 hour power outage last night, I cursed at the darkness as I stubbed my toe on my way to lighting a candle....

Normally, no. But keep in mind that every part manufactured has certain tolerances and if the rod it on the plus side while the hole in the plug is on the minus side, you have a potential interference fit. In the 1911/2011 parts industry, where mixing and matching is common, it is inevitable that you will encounter parts that do not quite fit. Sounds like you got it working

If you want to fix the plug you have, you will have to slightly enlarge the opening. This can be done with a needle file or a dremel/rotary tool. You could also buy a new plug. What is the diameter of the tungsten guide rod vs. the opening in the plug? You probably only need a few thousandsths of an inch to keep it from binding.

Sorry. Meant to say "spring plug". After you compare the rod diameters, check the fit of the plug on the tungsten rod with no spring.