bountyhunter

And 500 rounds of ammo would be a lifetime supply.

There is a ton of info on Wolff out there. I'd summarize the upshot as this: commie ammo goes in commie guns (or maybe a rented gun) it ain't going in mine. The famous melting lacquer/siezed case/ sheared extractor tip has probably crapped out more guns than Sarah Brady. They claim the new coating doesn't melt (?) Bottom line, the steel case has different expansion/contraction rates than brass which will affect the unlock cycle of the gun (and may sieze a case in a really tight barrel). Commie guns are intentionally made loose to handle this. Gun Tests has documented some new guns that choke on steel but shoot anything in brass because of the affect on cycling. It is a fact that pulling on a steel rim of a case that is in tighter compared to pulling on brass will wear the extractor out faster. Siome have claimed they would rather save the money on ammo and replace extractors. I stick with cheap brass ammo like S+B or Winchester.

I'm not sure how saying that helps me do it. If I don't have the confidence and absolute belief that I will perform exactly as I have planned (or close to it), it ain't gonna happen. The baseline of confidence is a necessary (but not sufficient) condition to even get to where you could have that level of trust.

I follow you. Thinking about it, to me, trust implies a deeper, stronger feeling than I get from the word confidence. I am confident that my physical and mental techniques will get the job done. In a match, I "trust" that all I need to do is execute the techniques I've trained to do, and that will be good enough. The reason I use the word trust is because that word "came to me" one day, after reflecting on a fairly amazing run on a course of fire. I realized that what had been missing from my match performances up till then was this deeply rooted knowledge that all I needed to do was exactly what I had trained to do. I did not need to add anything extra, nor did I need to eliminate anything from what I was preparing to do. Moreover, I also realized that what it "felt like," to do just what I had trained to do, did not feel the same in a match as it did in practice. Over time, I learned to accommodate that realization in matches, just before shooting, by throwing out any attachment to the feeling of passing time. Stage after stage, match after match, year after year... be <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The interesting thing is your realization sounds "digital" to me (I'm an electrical engineer). In other words, it's a two state system: you either achieve the level of trust you seek or you don't achieve it. And you know if you have or if you have not. For me, "confidence" applies because it is more linear. It goes from pretty much no confidence that I will perform what I want to up to a high level of confidence... which may or may not be proven justified. Point is, I suspect eventually if you get good enough at this or anything else, it crosses over to the digital zone where you know if you are either there or not. Because you have performed at the high level under pressure so many times, doubt has been driven out... and your "range of expected performance" becomes quite narrow, as does your range of actual performance. So you may shoot at the upper edge of the range or the lower based on factors, but know what the range will be. As opposed to some of us who pray for a cross wind because we are stinking the place up on a bad day.....

What I (and everybody else) have noticed on Woods is that he used to have a very long, arcing swing that was not pressure proofed. he would get under pressure and try to over hit it, and spin his body out of the way (ahead of his hands) opening the club face and sending the ball right every time. His "new swing" has less backswing and more control. He stays "behind" the shot now. he still crushes the ball, he never needed the extra rotation to hit it 350 yards.

In this context, it seems you are using the word "trust" in a place I would substitute "confidence". In effect, this is simply a belief that you will be able to do what you did when you were training under pressure of competition.I call that building a confidence level in the belief that I will do exactly what I trained to do. The certainty of belief varies.... tends to be reduced when I choke and yank one off the page.

The Guys' Rules At last a guy has taken the time to write this all down Finally, the guys' side of the story. We always hear "the rules" from the female side. Now here are the rules from the male side. These are our rules! Please note... these are all numbered "1" ON PURPOSE! 1. Learn to work the toilet seat. You're a big girl. If it's up, put it down. We need it up, you need it down. You don't hear us complaining about you leaving it down. 1. Sunday sports. It's like the full moon or the changing of the tides. Let it be. 1. Shopping is NOT a sport. And no, we are never going to think of it that way. 1. Crying is blackmail. 1. Ask for what you want. Let us be clear on this one: Subtle hints do not work! Strong hints do not work! Obvious hints do not work! Just say it! 1. Yes and No are perfectly acceptable answers to almost every question. 1. Come to us with a problem only if you want help solving it. That's what we do. Sympathy is what your girlfriends are for. 1. A headache that lasts for 17 months is a problem. See a doctor. 1. Anything we said 6 months ago is inadmissible in an argument. In fact, all comments become null and void after 7 days.. 1. If you think you're fat, you probably are. Don't ask us. 1. If something we said can be interpreted two ways and one of the ways makes you sad or angry, we meant the other one. 1. You can either ask us to do something or tell us how you want it done. Not both. If you already know best how to do it, just do it yourself. 1. Whenever possible, please say whatever you have to say during commercials. 1. Christopher Columbus did not need directions and neither do we. 1. ALL men see in only 16 colors, like Windows default settings. Peach, for example, is a fruit, not a color. Pumpkin is also a fruit. We have no idea what mauve is. 1. If it itches, it will be scratched. We do that. 1. If we ask what is wrong and you say "nothing," we will act like nothing's wrong. We know you are lying, but it is just not worth the hassle. 1. If you ask a question you don't want an answer to, expect an answer you don't want to hear. 1. When we have to go somewhere, absolutely anything you wear is fine...Really. 1. Don't ask us what we're thinking about unless you are prepared to discuss such topics as baseball, the shotgun formation, or monster trucks. 1. You have enough clothes. 1. You have too many shoes. 1. I am in shape. Round is a shape. 1. Thank you for reading this. Yes, I know, I have to sleep on the couch tonight; but did you know men really don't mind that? It's like camping.

There is no significant difference. I have used a ton of non-chlor brake cleaner over the last ten years. I have also used carburetor cleaner. If the main ingredient is acetone, it will clean like gunscrubber.

now that I am as well, i'll chase him down.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> At our age, we don't so much "chase" as we "saunter"... don't want to fall and break a hip.

Maybe we should start posting the drug stores running the 2 for 1 specials on Depends... Geritol, Dulcolax?

Thumb holding the hammer back when loading as the slide drops is done to protect the trigger job. It prevents the hammer hooks from bouncing off the sear face. It also eliminates the possibility of an AD from an "inertia trip" which sometimes happens on 1911's with very light triggers.

Welcome home, hope he gets to stay.

Words of much wisdom.

Stock gun? "I have a six inch longslide. Compared to my 5's, I think the 6" feels nose heavy. The balance just feels wrong. YMMV. Did not see a significant difference in accuracy." " Stock gun?" Yes, both are stock STI Trojans, one 5" one 6". Obviuosly, it could be possible to grind off enough material from the 6" slide to improve the balance. Mine is just a regular slide.

If I had known I was actually older than you, I wouldn't have saluted as often.

I have a six inch longslide. Compared to my 5's, I think the 6" feels nose heavy. The balance just feels wrong. YMMV. Did not see a significant difference in accuracy.

Low left hits are the result of either or both of the following: yanking the trigger (as opposed to squeezing) or clenching the right hand as you pull the trigger (I call it the Sympathy Squeeze) as the other three fingers are instinctively trying to help the trigger finger pull. 1) Do some simple excercises to build stamina in your shoulders and arms for a more solid platform. 2) Dry fire and work on trigger squeeze. 3) Teach yur brain to divide the shot into two tasks: align squeeze. Do "align" until the gun is in the correct area and then ignore the sights and execute a perfect squeeze. Your groups will shrink. Trigger yank is the #1 cause of scatter fire (I should know). FYI: I have a SIG 226 and it is hard for me to shoot tight groups. The SA trigger is not "target quality" (even after fine tuning) and the short sight radius doesn't help either. I didn't notice that part... hang it up, there's no hope. I should know, I'm 53 and my body quit on me years ago. I still won overall Grand master in the local *WOF bullseye league.*WOF = Wobbly Old farts

You are absolutely correct that a stiffer recoil spring gives more muzzle flip. That's because the slide and barrel asssembly act as a recoil absorbing mass which spreads the recoil pulse out over time. A lighter spring allows the slide move more easily and lowers the peak amplitude of the recoil pulse.... at the expense of increasing the pulse when the slide hits the frame going back. The second pulse is usually less than the first, so a lighter spring will give less flip. My point was that in a gun which is having problems getting the round to chamber, I am thinking I want more slide velocity comeing forward (more spring) rather than less.

From the Wolff website: "COLT 1911 FACTORY RECOIL SPRING NOTES 1. Factory rating for super .38 & 9mm is 14 Lbs. 2. Factory rating in .40 S&W is 19 Lbs. Para Ordnance P-14 and P-16 use the same recoil spring as the Colt 1911 Series. The P-16 has a factory rating of 20 Lbs. " That would explain my sore thumb. My 1640 is not 18# stock, it's 20#. No wonder it felt so stiff!

I'm not sure why they would be running a 5" .40 that light. The "18#" spring in mine is probably closer to 20# and it never short cycles... so there is plenty of rcoil to drive it back. With the .40 being notorious for feed hangs, I would think they'd want to load up the extra energy to get it to cycle more reliably. Oh, well. I'm going to stay with 18# because it cycles perfectly.

One point of information I found: http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/dec96letters.html Reader: What’s The 1911’s Standard Spring Weight? Please settle this issue once and for all: Is the standard-weight recoil spring on a Government Model 1911 16 pounds or 18 pounds? By standard weight I mean as it comes from the factory. I’ve heard many conflicting views. -Philip Gilkey Torrance, CA Standard factory recoil spring weight varies somewhat. Military specs don’t actually specify weight. Under Drawing #5013299 they describe the diameter of the music-wire spring (.043 inch), its length (6.55 inch), and the number of coils to be used in making them (30). Put the specs together and do the math and you come up with a nominal weight of 14.9 pounds. In practice, GI pistols ended up with springs of about 16 pounds, which was about right for issue FMJ Ball ammo rated at 800 fps. However, most factory ammo has been loaded to ever higher pressures and velocities over the course of the past couple of decades, and 18-pound springs are now being used by most makes to accommodate the changes. The slide returning to battery with the heavier spring won’t cause noticeable increase in wear for quite some time.

I don't find it harder to reassemble, either way. It's obviously harder to rack the slide w/ a stiffer recoil spring... Shokbuf already in the gun.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Then you're stronger than I am. I hated fighting that 18# spring back in. I went to a FLGR with take-down hole just to allow me to remove the rod/spring/bushing as a unit and never have to decompress the stupid spring.

Actually.... not (in an STI factory gun). From the FAQ at http://www.stiguns.com: Q. What is the recoil spring weight in my gun? A. As follows: ... 5" .40 S&W guns 14 pounds I believe you when you report they said that, I am just not understanding why. That is definitely not the spring any other 1911 maker puts in a 5" .40 and it sure isn't the one in mine. BTW: I have a 9mm 5" STI Trojan and the stock mainspring they ship with that is 12#. I will gurantee you a 180-gr .40 cartridge will give you a whole lot more than 2# of "pop" compared to 9mm.For the record: I also have a .40 STI Longlside which was suppplied new with a 16# spring (slightly less than 18 because of increased slide mass). With a 14# spring in a .40, I could imagine feeding problems becoming more likely because the .40 round is cranky anyway in trying to get it to strip, feed under the extractor, and get it's nose into the throat. Reduce the spring load and you will get some hang feeds.

Actually, the "stock" mainspring for a 1911 (5") .40 is 18 pounds and becasue of that, reassembly is a lot harder to manage than a .45 1911. 19-20# would be about right for anew 18# spring. Not sure why somebody thinks the stock spring for a .40 is 14#, but I recommend a shok-buffer if you do.

It's possible that the mag springs are weak, as they are what holds the nose up. Also, the follwoer design may be different. I have only used Mecgar and CMC power mags in my Trojan .40 and I was able to get both to feed OK. I will say on my Para .40, I had to cut the feedramp a little to get the "entry area" lower because it was jamming nose into the bottom, which is what is marking the heads of your slugs. That gfun fed with a noticeable "jerk" as the rounds slammed into the lower flat surface of the ramp and then bounced back and were pushed up and in (if I was lucky). Some of the ones with a weak crimp had the slugs forced back in the case a touch. However, doing a cut down on the ramp to lower the "entry ramp" edge requires cutting into the throat a bit and taking away a little "coverage area" near the rim of the case. Not sure what to suggest, but on problem feeders I usually do a "slow cycle" test by hand with live ammo to find the "hitch points" to address. Be careful if you do this (you can remove the firing pin if you want). It sounds like as the slide comes forward, it is causing the round to rotate its nose down and it inpacts the bottom of the feed ramp. If so, you may have to lower the "angle surface" of the ramp to where the round will catch it. This assumes there is enough ramp material there to do this. Good luck.