bountyhunter

Final report: after a week of soaking/scraping with a popsicle stick/soaking the lead is gone. Very easy fix.

-Chet Bummer. Now I wish I had ordered one back when they were available.

Mecgars should drop like shot ducks out of any 1911 frame thats in spec. I did get some CMC mags that had to be filed on the backside because the dragged a bit in my STI. One thing to check: a common cause of "mag dragging" is the mag release itself. If it is pushed "too far", it will release the mag then drag on it. I have an oversized mag release that did this and I ended up shimming under the head of the button to limit how far it got pushed in. Just far enough, perfect drop. Too far, the mag drops part way and hangs up.

I shoot one of those and even with 9mm, an aluminum framed gun firing 9mm still has a pretty good snap to it at discharge. That's what you are reacting to. Here's one drill: change the rules of the game. When you fire, focus entirely on the front sight with the objective of seeing how HIGH you can let the muzzle rise. In other words, let the gun pivot at your wrist but apply zero miscle resistance to it's rise.Another drill is to completely focus on sight picture and concentrate on not blinking at fire. Don't even hang a target, just shoot downrange. The objective of the game is to only see the sights as you pull the trigger and watch them rise, and make sure that the sights are not moving as you pull the trigger to break the shot. Eventaully, you will be able to "separate" the act of sight alignement from trigger pull. Once the sights are in a certain area, you shut off all attention to alignment and concentrate fully on pulling smoothly straight through and watching the sight picture as the shot fires.

No grip change required? You're lucky, most people have to shift their grip. Sounds like a winner to me.

Yep, right below the firing pin. I didn't even know Poland had a firearms industry........

Seriously, it's because women dress to impress other women, not men. They know we are neanderthals who don't notice anything..... but women have very high standards for appearance that they require of each other.

Because getting us drunk takes longer and costs more. No, we defintely fall in love with the hottie in the tube top we first saw through our drunken haze in that bar.... We learn to live with the girl whose cellulite is falling out of her sweatpants. Nobody said life was fair.

Thanks for the info. I did go back and make the guy recheck my eye and he did have the power too weak (cranked it up 0.25). It's better, still not quite on. The next power up is a bit too much. Verfied by the red/green field tests. He checked the glasses and they were made to his scrip.... which he got wrong. He wrote me a new one and the glasses place did put in a new left lense. I can see pretty good, but the left eye is still a bit fuzzy at distance. BTW, I'm 53 so some of the distortion could be due to the build up of dinosaur scales on my pupils. I wanted to know if there is some sort of contraption with a vernier you can put on that lets you dial it in until you see "best" and then he could read the numbers through that.

Probably pseudoephedrine (sudafed) but you have to sign for it in some states. It's funny... the definition of "mixed emotions" used to be your ex-wife driving off in your Porsche (don't go away mad, but please do go away)...... Now in kali, it's us waiting for the floods of the century to cease. We're sick of rain, but the pollen that will follow it will be monumental. We have at least three more weeks of heavy rain predicted, but doctors are already warning people it will be the worst allergy season in history. Everything grew, nothing died over the winter, and all the plants are revving their engines waiting to bloom when the sun shines for two days. It's going to be hell on earth out here.

Some info: 1) The new SW firing pin does not come through the breech plate as far as the hammer mounted firing pin (I realize that's not your question). 2) The above fact led C+S to make "extended length" firing pins which will protrude as far through as the old hammer mounted firing pins. 3) The quality of the three I bought from C+S was terrible. All needed smoothing and fitting. IMHO, they are junk. 4) My highly unscientific testing proved the C+S pins did not strike any more effectively than stock SW pins, or allow me to use a lighter mainspring: Hence, it's the energy applied to the pin, not how far it's head pops out (assuming it pops out far enough to do the job). 5) If you have a pin you think isn't coming out, rework the trailing edge of the "notch" for the retaining pin that keeps it in the channel as that is probably the limiter. If not, shave the front of the FP body that contacts the frame. If you really want a long one, get the C+S pin. My wife lies to me and tells me length doesn't matter, but on firing pins it looks like she's right.

I washed my hands right after scraping. It was on my skin less than a couple of minutes. Flushed it down the sink.... then set the frozen chicken in the sink to thaw.

I wondered: are plastic lenses "ground" to spec or just molded in standard increments? If they are actually ground, I'd say it would be no more expensive to dial the machine off a shade. If they have to make a custom mold.... obviously, that is big $$$$.

If I had a dollar for every shooter who does this, I would have Bill Gates waxing my car. IMHO, some slight downward movement applied AFTER firing is not bad, and helps bring the gun back on target faster. If you are dropping the nose as you fire or before, it's bad because it ruins the shot. The bottom line is always: are you hitting where you are aiming? If not, work on fundamentals. Smooth trigger pull and 100% focus on sight picture as the shot fires will account for about 99.99999% of the mechanics you will ever need to master for accurate shooting.

I would like to know: is there any way to get vision power corrected DEAD ON, and not just using the 1/4 diopter step increments? This is really bugging me. My opto says this scrip is as good as he can get it (2.25 left, 2.75 right) , but my right eye is a shade over corrected and my left eye is a shade under corrected. because of this, when I look at green lights or arrows, my right eye sees a sharp image and my left eye sees the light "flared". On red arrows, the reverse occurs. In general daylight vision, it looks pretty good except I do notice my left eye is a bit fuzzy on long range image compared to the right which is dead sharp. It bugs me, why can't they correct the power to exactly the right amount? When I shoot, I use both eyes nearly all the time and having "one over and one under" is bugging me. But the next 0.25 step up in power for my left eye would be too over corrected. Can optomotrists "dial in" power and then let me have glasses made to the exact power I need? I remember an optometrists once who rigged up some contraption with dials on it that I put on and told me to twiddle the dials until I could see best. Then she recorded some readings off it and wrote me up. I recall I could see pretty well after that one. Any way to get this?

Norecoil.com makes some nice recoil assemblies for about $60. I am using a couple of them.

Most shooters blink. be I'd wager it is a hard-wired-in-the-brain protection mechanism to try to prevent injury to your eyes. Difficult to over-ride those. Most shooters blink. Hold a pencil out at arms length and quickly wiggle the eraser up and down. Notice how you can see it wiggling even if you are looking anywhere near it. You can still be aware of its wiggling motion even if you focus 25 yards beyond it. be It's also possible to shift "brain focus" between two things such as this: look at a spot on the wall 25 yards out and focus both eyes on it. Raise your hand in line with your left eye. You will still see the spot on the wall (through your right eye clearly) and a fuzzy picture of the back of your hand in your left eye which appears to be "transparent". Without changing focus point of your eyes, you can "shift perception focus" between the spot on the wall and your hand. If you do it right, your hand will seem to get "more solid" as you "brain" focus on it, but you will still be able to see the wall spot at the same time. Try it. This same technique can be used to shift brain focus between sights and target without shifting eye focus.

Just my opinion. MUZZLE ALWAYS POINTS DEAD DOWNRANGE (finger along side of the slide). If it's a gun with a double stack mag (which is tapered at the top and easy to seat "blind"), I leave the gun about out near shooting position pointed downrange and just slap the mag in from underneath. Gun stays in normal upright position, pointed downrange. For a single stack with no magwell (which is a royal beeatch to get the mag in without hanging a lip on the frame): Bring the gun in closer to you and rotate it upward just enough to see the magwell opening, still pointing the muzzle downrange. You have to "look the magazine" in as you insert it or you will hose it up. It takes full attention as you do this. Muzzle always points downrange. That's EXACTLY what I do except I rotate the gun so the muzzle isn't pointed into the sky. No big effort to turn the gun a bit. I like his intense concentration on looking the mag into the gun....... that's exactly how to do it. I don't get the gun as close to my face as the gentleman on top...... I'd need my reading glasses to see anything that close!

Interesting timing...... I recently was doing internet research on "yellow tint" glasses supposed to make your vision better at night or in foggy conditions. Same thing as is used for shooting glasses. The upshot is that the "seeing sharper" with yellow appears to be an optical illusion nobody completely understands..... and when tested, people actually see worse with tinted lenses (compared to clear). This is said to be due to the fact that the tinted lenses reduce the amount of light entering the eye. The sources I read said that the government was directing sellers of such glasses to stop making claims that the tinted glasses give improved vision because the tests showed the opposite is true. Interesting, definitely kept me from ordering the "yellow night driving" glasses claimed to make you see better at night.

It's just a matter of time.

I had never heard that before. The "oversize" is just a few thou wider, it's not taller or angled on the sides. The wider stop is used to fill the larger frame slot which occurs as the stop peens the frame edge over time, as well as the wider cylinder notch which also grows wider with use. I'd never heard of a wider stop "peening" any harder than a regular one because the edge that hits the cylinder notch is the same size. Is there a reason for this?

I'm a semi-expert on the treatment: 1) Use ICE only, heat may feel good when applying it , but it makes inflammation WORSE. I am using ice packs on my shoulder and the pain is gradually going down to a tolerable level (I don't scream out loud when I move my arm). 2) Keep using the limb, but see which kinds of motion are hitting the specific tendons in question.... and avoid those. When my elbow was messed up, I found that keeping my arm near my body allowed me to grip with minimum pain, but gripoping with my arm streched out was horrible. Figure out how to use the arm with minimal damage. An inflammed tendon is judt that... a thing connecting muscle to bone which is really sore and cranky. 3) I also used the "elbow strap" for a while, try it and see if it helps. Just don't use slings or braces which immobilize the joint.

Yeah, the doctors at kaiser hate me because they have to use a fork lift and the elevator to haul up my records. My first really severe bout with tendonitis was the strong arm elbow. It lasted for about a year, but did eventually go back to "normal". It was so painful, I lost nearly all of my right hand grip strength and could not even hold a coffee cup at arm's length without dropping it. It sucks because gunsmithing involves holding parts and filing or scrubbing or brushing them.... which requires strong grip pressure with both hands for long periods of time. Be very careful or you will end up with tendonitis in your elbows from this kind of work (as well as wrist and back of hand). Immobilizing a joint is the fastest way known to destroy it. The muscles around it atrophy VERY quickly. When I broke my knee (and had to stay off it), my thigh muscle shrunk to half normal size in about five days from dis-use. All muscles do this. Studies of people with severe arthritis of both kinds (OA and RA) proved regular excercise slows joint deterioration and reduces pain levels.

Cool. Is it the Volquartzen comp? -Chet Yes, it is a Volquartsen comp..... and it packed full of lead faster than you would believe. I am not convinced a comp on a .22 barrel does anything more productive than hang five ounces of weight at the end of the barrel..... but the other guy's Rugers had one, so I had to have one too. For the record, the vinegar/hyd per soluion works the best. It does "sludge up" the surface of the lead and make it easy to scrape off. I will keep at it and I think it will come clean. Thanks for the tip.

Sorry, I guess I couldn't follow the players without a program.