JaeOne3345

You can come up with your own design obviously that should work, but what I am imagining would work fairly well. You might take the press to wherever you get your steel plate from and have them drill the holes for you. They will likely have a giant drill press that can do a much better job that most people can do at home. Unless of course you have a giant drill press. The other thing you could do would be to have a small steel pipe(maybe 3/4" diameter) welded to the bottom center of the portion that extends off of your bench. Have the bottom, outside threaded and then get something like a screw on pipe cap to have some adjustability. Although I DOUBT that a 1/2" thick plate of steel that is going to only come off a bench 4"(I think thats about the width of the 1050 frame) will bend or flex. My metal guy I use is pretty good and gives me lots of ideas on how to mount things or build plates for various things. Just throwing some more ideas out there. Thanks for the brainstorming assistance. My gunsmith should be able to drill the holes for me with his equipment (mill, lathe, etc) I am guessing? I see some plates on ebay. Do you have any sources online that you could direct me to for metals like that?

I think that is what I am gonna do. Steel plate.

Yeah, Unfortunately, I don't have that much over hang. I think I may have to have the front holes attached with lag screws that go through the press, through the top of the bench, and into the 2x4 under neath. The rear will be able to be attached with bolts/screws.

First off, I have read the manual, and searched numerous images on google. Has the geometry of the 1050 changed recently? In the manual and on older posts here on the forum, it says that you need to mount the unit close to the edge of the bench to ensure that the handle has clearance on the down stroke. Otherwise, people have mentioned that you may have to notch the bench it is attached to. I read a post (can't find it now) that basically stated that "older 1050 operation arms/handles would hit the bench top if not mounted on the very edge." I visited Dillon this weekend while shooting the Area 2 match in AZ, and it appears they the handle on the Super 1050 they had would have hit the edge of the work bench if it was mounted all the way to the edge. But then, there is this photo.... It seems as though this person has the two 1050's on the right mounted pretty far in. How is this possible? Is this a change in the geometry of the 1050? I am ready to order a 1050 from Brian, but I am trying to understand the mounting options a bit better since the bench I will be mounting it too doesn't really have a lot of overhang and I doubt I would be able to mount it on the edge. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thanks in advance.

I cracked mine a few months back. STI offered to replace it but I lost faith in the product and asked for a few plastic grips in return. Sold the spare I had as well. (Yea, I bought two!) It is just way too thin above the mag catch area for a material that doesn't flex. It felt awesome in my small hands, but they need to beef it up. Now looking into a steel option from PT. I cracked mine on one of my limited guns. 170 PF ammo. I was running a 12.5 ISMI recoil spring during that time, with no shock buff, and a very light slide. Mine slipped on and required no fitting.

Older post, but thought this video may be useful for anyone curious about 550B work flow. I agree with all comments here. Gotta keep your hands in motion. Case feeder? Bullet feeder? Never heard of 'em. LOL.

I load BBI 180 moly's at 1.180", 5.0 WST, and it gets me 170PF out of a 5" STI barrel. It was in the high 80's/low 90's temperature wise from what I remember. Soft. Reliable. Never any issues. I love WST.

Understood.

I agree. ^The forums are for asking questions. Responses like this deter people from asking them. The OP is looking to gain knowledge, not be brushed off. Next time quote my entire response, which expanded on why I don't care, and why it doesn't matter. We can all split hairs, but we know the platform is fairly universal at this point. 2011 can be used for any of the modular SV, STI, Phoenix Trinity, CK Arms, etc. guns which are a tad different than a Para double stack. If someone says "2011" you know what they are talking about. C'mon now. The gun pictured above is a PT frame, STI slide, Infinity barrel, with components from EGW, Infinity, etc. I don't need to explain all that when someone asks what gun I am shooting for USPSA. A simple "2011 platform" will do. You know this.

Who cares? That's like saying a 1911 from a new mgfr is not a 1911 because it wasn't made by the company who originally made them. It's a double stack 1911 that is based on the S_I pattern. That's about all that matters. I like mine. The lack of "STI" or "2011" markings means nothing to me. I have STI branded frames. Whatever at this point! LOL.

I must be extremely luckily. Within the past couple years I have purchased about 10 STI tubes in 10mm/40sw, removed them from the bag, installed Gram's internals, and a base pad of my choice, and they all run reliably, hold 20, and drop free. I am not sure about 9/38, but for 40, I have found the whole tuning concept to be questionable. Perhaps it was the case with older manufactured tubes? I can see the need for someone to massage a tube to get 21.

Yea, I never said anything was bulletproof. I just stated what I felt was the better design. Any and all of this equipment can wear and break. I have bent the dillon pins, but not to the extent you have with that Lee. LOL.

Never made such a claim. In my experiences using both, the Lee has been easier to get back up and running with less fuss. That is all. Do what works for you.

Thanks, Hiro! Saved me some money.

Would anyone happen to know which of these two (SVI or STI) short curve triggers is the shortest when installed into the same grip? It's fairly hard to tell from pics since most pics I see have the ITS in a steel grip. I have short fingers/small hands and could use the small difference, if any, between them. Thanks!

Or just a acquire a Lee sizing die, which has a better design for issues like this. Been there, done that,

There should be a c-clip that holds it in position. Edit: It's a 1/4" e-clip

SSE as stated above. I just brought a Trojan in 40 in from gunbroker. Sent it to OC Armory. They converted the pistol to single shot. After 10 days in gun jail, I picked it up, converted it back to its normal semi-auto configuration, and now have a registered Trojan in California. Followed the letter to the T. AB169 just got dismissed from the governor, but he says he does like the idea of putting an "end" to this "loop hole." Before anybody tells me to "hush" about this, let's be honest. It ain't a secret. It was in the damn bills. LOL. Complete pistols that aren't on the safe roster are easy to get into California, if the FFL on the other end isn't ignorant. Frames on the other hand? Take a bit more work.

The steel is AWESOME, Ben is shooting the dog sh!! out of his. Is the slide steel or stainless ..? Carbon steel. I have some questions for you regarding that. PM incoming. Thanks, I can't believe it is mine!

I think the Dawson Ice is perfect. I have small hands and enjoy the way it locks my hand into a solid grip.

Glenn, Thanks! I'm really considering a steel grip for it. The plastic just ain't doing it justice!

Eli, Your gun has a brother now.

One of the few gunsmith that will actually take your inputs on a build instead of telling you my way / my design or the its the highway... Yup! "If I can do it on the mill, you can have it, as long as it doesn't make it less reliable."

If it runs half as well as my 5" he built does, I'll be happy. Never an issue. Stand up guy!

Thanks. One man operation! Jimmy Vidanes is the young brother of 2008 Modified World Champ JoJo Vidanes. They used to operate JV Dynamics together, but Jimmy split off and started doing his own thing a few years ago.