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Most everything is "worth" about 150% (or more, .22 ammo is outrageous at 250% in lots of places) of normal (6-8 months ago) prices right now while supplies of everything are so spotty/scarce. That being said, I do think that shortly after everyone stops paying the inflated prices, the market will settle down again. Simple supply and demand economics. Sounds like you are pleased with your deal and the other guy voted "yes" with his cash, so its a win. Stuff is worth whatever someone is willing to pay.

You can always add more. Why not start a little lower, say 2.8-3.0 and work up with a chrono? Load 5-10 chrono and check for cycling at same time. Add more if needed while paying attention to primers, brass, etc from previously fired roumds.

Doug at D/C isn't taking any brass for processing right now. I talked to him a few days back and he stated that he wasn't going to be doing that anytime soon. All resources dedicated to loading ammo for now. If anyone has any other suggestions, I am open as I too need some .223/5.56 processed.

I'm going to have to second that I have not had this issue in any of the 5-6 AR's I have pieced together. I've used standard buffers and JP's LMOS buffer, and done about the same as the above poster and lightened my own standard units (I replaced a few of the weights with a .30/06 case). Never had an issue with that roll pin backing out. Might you be using a carbine length spring with a rifle tube? That would give similar issues as being grossly over-gassed. Another poster mentioned just "staking" the roll pin, and I would imagine that would work just fine as well. Another option would be to remove the pin and open it up a bit before replacing it. Get it out of the buffer, open one end a bit and into the middle of it, leave the other end a little smaller to be able to start it again and then replace. Maybe when it was assembled, the roll pin was a little bit too undersized (easier to insert that way) to maintain enough tension/friction to stay in place?

Are the triggers really the same? Especially the "length", I guess it should be as measured from the web of the strong hand. If you are using anything other than your last "pad" on your trigger finger, it is easy to push/pull the gun when pulling the trigger. Have you ever tried different length triggers to see if it makes a difference for you?

+1 for Hear-Pro. The Passguard is comfortable and effective. And, they have great electronic plugs made with the same material.

Anybody have any info on this sight's availability? I'm in need of a new rear sight for me 6" pistol with "bomar" cut.

Thanks!

Sold out while I was entering my pymt info...

I understand what you all are saying about some powders being more forgiving of mistakes, but the fact is that within reasonable parameters (using ONLY published data until you understand the implications of substituting cast for jacketed (not an even swap) or 165gr projectile in place of a 155gr) and with appropriate safety precautions in place (consistent powder measure and regular checking with a decent scale and a caliper/micrometer to measure OAL) you should be fine. I think that the last thing that any new reloader should plan to do is get lackadaisical because they have some margin of error in their chosen powder. Definitely use the "dangerous" powders if it makes you more conscientious of what you are doing! The place where you have the greatest chance to make an error in loading with a single-stage press is when you start charging the cases with powder. "Safe" powder or not, a double-charge can spell disaster. I started off loading .45 ACP with Clays and Bullseye, they are cheap and fairly readily available (and dangerous...). Never had an issue. Not a dang thing wrong with starting off with Clays. Just make sure that you have a means to keep track of what you are doing and stay focused on loading while you are loading. When/if you get interrupted during a session, make certain that you create a "reminder" to know where you left off. If you do not recall for absolute certain, start over, even if it means pulling bullets because you caught yourself daydreaming, etc.

Now would be such a fantastic time to post stages so that we have an idea of what to plan for though...

Start around 4 gr and chrono. Work up from there for your gun.

Sounds like something is slightly mis-adjusted. What dies are you using? Does your current seat die also offer the option of crimping? Assuming that you are getting a decent bell on the case neck, sounds almost like you have a seat/crimp die that is crimping before bullet is fully seated.

You will find that almost all except for a few of the Open shooters are running 1x-4,6 or 8x. I believe that you might find a few Open guys running higher magnification scopes with mini-red-dots mounted in some type of offset configuration like the Warne RAMP, etc. I recently had a conversation about this with a shooting buddy and we discussed the possibility of him putting a 2 or 2.5x-10 or 12x on a 3G rig and adding 45 degree sights, but for now at least, I am going to stick with my 1-6.5x.

My wife works for ATK and they have an employee purchasing program. You would think this would make it easy for me to get my primers (Fed or CCI), but alas, they are not even filling their employee orders in the last couple ordering periods... So, I too am looking to find them anywhere that I can find them and paying a bit of a premium at this point.

Depending on how much you want to drive, there is plenty of shooting to be done around N. Alabama. Matches every wkend w/in 2 hrs drive.

Grams are the guts to use if you dont want to have to worry with it too much. They just work.

Patience is your friend in this search. I had it happen a little diferently in that I can across a great Open "package" with gun, mags, ammo, holster, belt, pouches, brass and powder for just over $2K. Fantastic deal. Pistol isn't super-duper amazing, but it runs and has all the bells and whistles, so its been a great place for me to start. I figure that if I like it, I can send this pistol off and have some little tweaks and such performed by the aforementioned 'smiths to bring it in line with my prefs. Caveat noted by this guy: keeping up with that dot is trickier that it appears. After my first few outings, I was looking to see if I could figure out a way to put irons on it...

22 is VERY doable, but will take some messing.

Certainly a possibility. Comps cant do their job without plenty of gas. Plenty of open shooters have super-high PF's because that is where they feel like they get the most stable dot characteristics.

Use the feedlips as your guide. See if they will hold a 9mm or 38 Super round. If so, you have 9/38 tubes. If no, probably 40's. All my STI .40 tubes have dual ribs on both sides of tube. But, feedlip dimensions will tell the story.

The problem is something tiny. What were you getting on the third round when you were starting with commercial then reload? What was the third round doing? If you try to eject the reload after allowing it to be chambered by firing the commercial round, does it eject freely? Whats your trim length? How does your crimp look? I know this is insanely frustrating, but if you will stick with it, the source of the prob will become apparent.

Tried it yet? Just curious. Much easier than other method I mentioned in your other thread.

Tried it yet? Just curious. Much easier than other method I mentioned in your other thread.

Might also try an SNL basepad, trimming spring a little, or an SV or Rescomp tube...