Gary H.

I took about 1/4" of the spring that was remaining after the cut, gripped both ends with a pair of pliers and bent the leg end flat so it met the other coils just like it was originally. DO NOT cut the end that has a couple coils together! When you put it back on, make sure the cut end seats up onto the retaining collar so it doesn't slip off later and your good to go.

I hope you don't Jeff, the way that slide rattles when you shake it made me vary leary! I'd definately cut your striker spring a little. I've got a spare in my range bag if you mess it up. I'd hate to see that thing go kaboom on you. I can't belive you and Mark get by running a load that close to PF without problems at matches. TG must be vary stable! That or you got that Yoda thing going with the chrono

`Ran 300 rounds through it today. It will definately lock up and I didn't have any problems running the 11 lb. spring. I did have an issue not goingto slide lock on lighter loads for some reason. I started digging into that a little more with an empty mag and when it does it, it doesn't stay back when I rack the slide full back even. When I push the slide stop up, it will work again. I'll have to pull that apart tonight to see whats up. I may just run the 22/45 tomorrow in steel. I really need to get my speed up and the only thing that will do that is trigger/sight time.

The reason had nothing to do with lightening the trigger pull. Thank goodness. My trigger is awesome right now. I had a couple of good 2011 guys (gunsmiths) shoot it last week during range practice and the first words out of their mouth were,,,,WOW! Personally, I don't want it any lighter. The problem with leaving the striker spring at factory or SSS strength is that it fights against the recoil spring keeping the gun locked up. I ordered an extra striker spring from SSS just in case I didn't do it right and am going to keep it in the range bag along with the other recoil springs if I start having problems. I'm going to head to the range today so I can take my time and check lockup very thoroughly before I try running it all out. If these mods keep making me like this M&P just a little more, I'm going to order another as a backup and this on is going to go into a full blown Open Major build! The way it is now, I can still run it in ESP IDPA. With the new sights and trigger, I'm much more accurate with it, now I just gotta get my speed up. Kevin, all my reloads now have Winchester primers in them. Hopefully I'll be ok with them, if not, I'll have to stop and pick up some Feds or CCI. One of my friends that I mentioned in another thread is using an 11 lb. spring in his and not cutting the striker. So far, he's had no problems, but he's pretty much shooting bunny farts! DMAC, we need those pictures

DMAC, this post is useless without pics. We want pics!,,,,,,,Please

I made a mistake because I just received 2 140MM extensions from SSS that had been out of stock. I misread your original post. When I realized my mistake immediately, I went to delete my post and I couldn't figure out how to. I had to modify it and still leave a post. That's what you got. Sorry.

incorrect post

I believe their trigger return spring is stronger! At least they say it is in their installation video. It seems to me that it is stronger as it's definately harder to put in.

Got my springs and guide rod from SSS today. I put the 13 in and it locked up tight. I thought I'd try the 11 and it locked, but was loose and came out of battery when I put in a full mag. I pulled the striker and cut the spring. Wasn't sure how to do this so I started slow. Figuring the first coil was flat, I wouldn't call it a coil but a rest area, I went down straight from the end of the spring 1 coil and cut it there, and bent it flat. I would guess I shortened it by a coil and a half. Inserted the full mag and it stayed locked up. Pulled the mag and shook it and it stayed. Ran a full mag through it by pulling the slide back and releasing it to let the springs close it and it was locking up. Couldn't shake it loose, so I think I'm going to try this thing out tomorrow. If not, definately on Saturday at the Steel match at the club.

IF Botach did get them you couldn't prove it to me. I put my order in over a week ago and I still haven't heard a thing. I called & emailed them yesterday but still haven't heard one wY or the other. Buyer beware!

Good loooking piece. Did you change the finish on the slide? Did the comp and barrel take any machine work or was it just drop in stuff? If SSS can make a frame mount for this, there'll be another M&P in my future!

OK, that answers the remaining question. All the other loads I have developed, the method of using a magic marker on the projectile and loading into a previously fired case with no powder to longer length had all worked out within a reasonable OAL. This bullet was way longer before it hit the lands in the rifling, creating the question. I had no idea that he accuracy on a pistol would be less effected by the OAL. No matter, using my old methodology won't work with this bullet anyhow and I started using the 1.135 OAL that I've had luck with on the other loads. I haven't got around so shooting them yet but I'll post up when I know more. This snow this weekend put a damper on my plans.

They work fine on the ones with mag safeties, but don't work on the ones with the thumb safety. They are designing something for that thumb safety gun right now.

Yep, 2 of my buddies run the 2.9g titegroup/147g BBI, one in a Glock and one in an M&P Pro 5" and both of them are just barely making power factor, but they are making it. One of them does quite a bit of traveling shooting large matches and hasn't had a problem. I haven't chronoed mine at 2.9 because it won't run properly (slide won't lock).

call the CZ Custom shop. The CTS they have on their "Custom Firearm" page is just a TS set up like you are wanting. They'lll know which parts will work and which won't if there are any.

That's where the info came from then. I guess you can order the part straight from S&W or is there another source that might have it. I know I'm pushing the limit on the PF, but I was just trying to put together a load the wife likes more than anything. AS I said, 3.1 runs in her M&P fine but it runs right at 132 PF on my scale through her 5".

I have the same thing with mine. I like the feel of the large till I shoot it, then I like the medium. But, when I use the timer, the small is the one for me.

The difference could be as I explained in my original post. The slide locks back on the stronger loads. While shooting Winchester White Box, I have not had a single issue. If I load around 140 power factor, I never have a problem. It's only with light loads! Some of my shooting buddies are shooting 2.9 TightGroup and 147 BBI cast lead making power factor. I have to load the same load at 3.2g TG for my slide to lock back. Is there something that could be done to the M&P's to help them go into battery and stay locked up with the lighter recoil spring? Other than say lightening the slide anyhow.

Small purchases, I could care less how their paid or paid for. Paypal is the easiest but I don't like giving them any money because of their anti-gun stance. Large purchases I was taught that the most secure way was to use the USPS money orders even though they cost a little more on large purchases because of the added federal protections involved. I learned that on another board. Whether that's true or not I don't know but it seemed to make sense to me. What I don't like is when doing a trade for high end stuff and the other person involved wants you to ship your product first and wait several days before they ship theirs. Had that happen on this board and I ended up backing out. As another poster said, trust is a 2 way street and if things have gone far enough for a deal to be made, both should be comfortable and willing to accept equal participation

waktasz, If I remember correctly, you did that work yourself. You should post details. Sharp gun!

definately not thumbing the slide. I had that problem with a 1911 and know the scenario. It even does it when I completely clear my hand from that area of the gun. Maybe I just have a strong spring??? Does anyone know of a new guide rod with a hex head on it to allow removal of the spring? I know sss sells a stainless guide rod. Maybe I'll go that way with that and get a 13# to try & 15# in case of issues.

No wonder why I have it cranked all the way!

I've searched the messages but my search-fu is lacking. I'm developing a load for the wife to shoot regularly and for me to shoot IDPA with. If I get my 147s down to about 130 power factor or 885 ft/second, the slide doesn't lock back consistently. If I kick that up to 900 FPS and all is fine. I'm just trying to loose a little more recoil and have room on the PF floor. I'm guessing the recoil spring is a little strong. I've had the same issues when I loaded 115s or 124s and have to load the 115s right up to the maximum recommended load recipes to get it to lock back consistently. I see that there is an issue with them not wanting to stay locked up with the lighter springs like the guys run in the glocks. You guys have any recommendations? Someone also told me that the new guide rods on the M&Ps have a removable end allowing one to change springs. Is this true and any idea of where I can pick one up or do I just need to get the stainless guide rod from SSS? I've got this thing about as tricked out as one can get it and it has all the Apex parts and springs. Anyone want to recommend spring weights and do I need to trim a few coils off the striker spring to make lighter springs work?

get the one they recommend, the .265. I got the .210 because I had issues with mine shooting 5" - 6"low with 115g ammo. Now, mine is adjusted as high as it will go and it's still about 1/2" high at 15 yards.

I'm shooting this batch out of a M & P 9 and it eats just about anything I put through it as long as they'll fit in the magazines. My more accurate loads are 1.125 to 1.135. Getting one to work won't be an issue with this gun but accuracy is another thing. I was just trying to find a starting point and for my other loads wasn't an issue. This bullet must just have a different shape than I'm used to. Probably be great for feeding longer lengths for guns that can take it? I tried the search function but it seems to be down and I get no results other than an error message.