soaringf22

thats interesting, not to hijack the thread but, I wonder if you would have had that problem if you used a standard extractor as opposed to the aftec.

he did not say if it was an aftec. for what its worth i use only one spring in my aftec.

so was mine at first. it only made it maybe 600 rounds before i had the issue, not nearly as long as yours lasted though. the other thing is could the ejector possibly be damaged from an over inserted mag?

is it a stove pipe for sure? my 9 were ejecting into the mount then bounced back in the slide appearing like a stovepipe. lowering the point on my ejector fixed the problem.

I was led to believe that para stopped making their 9mm mags and just make the 38 super mags. so when someone buys a 9mm they come with 38 super mags. I have not had that confirmed by para however. once again all the trouble is why i converted mine to take STI mags. plus if a mag goes down at a match their are plenty of people willing to let you borrow a mag. not a lot of them have a para 9mm mag though. now my para is a backup open gun to an STI, all the more reason to have it take STI mags because now I dont have to carry two sets. that might not be a bg deal locally but it adds up when traveling

i use a 17lb mainspring in both .45s but also use an extra power firing pin spring. it sets off from federals to cci's to wolf primers.

STI spacers will not work in a para mag without fitting. with that being said buy the plastic ones this way you can trim them with a razor. after i fit the spacer in the para tube, i fit grams (for STI) springs and followers, usually just takes a little filing on the outside of the follower to work smoothly. the mags are 21 rounds each so i didnt bother with base bads except on my big stick and that has a grams 3mm, which just takes some force to get on and off. or convert the gun to take STI mags and avoid the problem all together

i dont use them so i dont have pictures to offer. i just sand down my para grips and then wrap them in skateboard tape, easiest solution to grip fillers IMO.

jim joyce www.Jimjoycecustom.com

how about with a spent peice of brass?

Thats the time frame i was given as well from STI. They also said that the cracking was because they changed the spec of the frame and the newer grips werent fitted causing the cracking so the new design is going to fix that problem, I also asked if they were going to make a slim version like they used to and was told they would not. one size only.

how is it staying in the gun? stove pipe, or staying in the chamber? mine stayed in the chamber. case guage the ammo to see if the brass is being resized accordingly, egw u-die corrected my issue. after changing ejectors, extractors, mag springs, followers etc. with no success

I had some feed problems with my jhp on my feed ramp, i was at 1.175. i shortened it up to 1.155 and dont have the feeding problem anymore. something that has caused nose dive for me in the past was when the spacer came loose and up enough so the slide was hitting it, in turn hitting the top of the round causing nosedives.

Low ES and SD means very little to overall accuracy unless you get way out there. I agree but a bullet has to be accurate close to be accurate way out there. But i shoot long distance so that is the way i base my opinionated information. i admit if we want 100 yard benchrest accuracy my logic doesnt apply as much

if you get a slide racker then get a thumbshield to take your thumb out of the equation. if i have less than a 9 lb spring my gun doesnt go into battery if my thumb rubs. and i run a 7lb spring. my other open gun has a racker and thumb guard and i dont have to worry at all

if you go to 6mmbr.com you will see all the stuff people do for accuracy to their rounds. but if you read brad sauve's interview he is abolutely right. most important thing for accuracy is reading wind, there is no point getting that last 3/16 MOA if you cant read wind. so i say: 1. Reading wind 2. Low single digit ES 3. Low single digit SD after those few things I like an almost max capacity case with powder (4064 is my favorite), then seating depth I dont turn/trim cases, i dont weigh brass and i stick to winchester brass because I just reload the brass i shot off from the 175g gr BTHP federal gold match factory ammo. SMK's are great, never tried Berger but they are high quality in a hunting rifle is stick with sierra gameking or nosler partitions.

did you try factory ammo? my p14 didnt like my 200gr swc load because it was too long but factory 230gr RN ammo was fine so i started loading 230RN just to keep it same.

central is vague, but rich at canyon creek is in IL hes a real nice guy and worth a phone call. he has a vendor section here on the forum. i know he does handguns, not too sure about long guns

its a long shot but by any chance did you force large pistol primers into small primer .45 brass? i know its almost impossible to do but i have managed to do just that on an old phelps machine when those pesky spp brass slip through the batch

depends, where are you located?

Does it load after you fire the round in the chamber ??? I tried loading a 21rd mag in pistol with an empty chamber and racking the slide, it wouldn't load the round in the chamber... This Saturday before the match I'll try it loading one in the chamber and see if a 21rd mag will load one in the chamber after firing a round... just cause it holds 21 doesnt mean you should load it as such, especially a new mag. use 20 for now and when your springs break in a little you may(only maybe) be able to get that 21st round in there reliably. to answer your other question if you have too many round in a gun you have to really slam it home for it to seat otherwise you will have a mag fall out after the next round is fired, plus can damage your mag and or gun (mag lips, ejector its all been covered on this forum before) i start the stage with 20+1 and the rest are loaded to 18. i get my Rescomp tube today so I will see how it compares with capacity soon.

Mr. Dremel, file, 220 grit sandpaper, arkansas stone, then anything that buffs. i dont recommend the dremel cause it can get away from you, however i use a variable speed dremel at its lowest setting.

Here is how I have mine, never a problem. Mine didn't come with directions so if I have it backwards I guess I have been lucky. Brownells just shipped it with a label in a small ziplock style bag.

that seems backwards from mine, i got two black and two red buffers with mine. the black ones look like rubber washers and fit on the wedge. the red ones looked like the traditional wilson shok buffs. I must have another version. I dont have the slit in it either, i got it on but took some manipulating.

the black one goes on the back, the red ones are the normal buffers. i use the black one on the back and 2 red buffers on the front. if you look closely the black one is much thinner to fit in that gap