BBJones
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Everything posted by BBJones
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Seems like most people are having good luck with Walmart bulk Federal which is 3 dram equivilent. Seems like Estate, Rio and Winchester cheap stuff is hit or miss. No first hand experience as I have not picked mine up yet. Read this thread and there is discussion of what ammo has worked and what has not.
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Are you sure the gas port diameter is .085"? If so, that is pretty big. It should be in the range of .075-.082 .08" is about avg. for a .75" gasblock 14.5" middy. Two ways I could make that work. Use a H2 or H3 buffer with the BCG you have (a VLTOR A5 system is an option too), or get the full lightened setup and tune the gas down. Ditch the Spikes buffer. They are not as goos as a std. H2 buffer (ie a buffer should use weights and not powder).
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Can slight dings in a comp affect accuracy?
BBJones replied to Forgetful's topic in Rifle - Technical
picture might be helpful. -
The only tip I would give is do not buy a used BCG unless it is coming with the barrel it was used in. Do not take a used BCG and match it with a new barrel. If you bought a new bolt and used an old carrier, it would be fine. I buy a new bolt for every new barrel.
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So Shotguns = AR's Not really, but triggers equal triggers. Just to be sure, are you telling me that if you could have a nice crisp, safe, 5lb trigger over a creepy 7.5lb with a ton of travel you would choose the latter? I see nothing wrong with the method MOA is using to tune the trigger, read nowhere they are removing material from hardened surfaces. Maybe if you went and read his fix and also about the improved version it would ease your mind? I'm waiting to get my lunch hooks on mine and then I'll sound off one way or the other. Believe me if it ain't right I will tell ya. Mildot I saw Tom's post and it sounds like it is a good solution. My not so eloquent point is they are different tools for different jobs and what is super important in one is not as important in the other. I am not nearly as worried about a trigger in a shotgun as I am in an AR. I am also not as worried about my AR trigger as I am in my bolt gun. I suppose if I had a blunderbus I would care less about its trigger than I do my shotgun. Ideally, in this type if shotgun, I would want a super crisp clean trigger in the 5-8lb range with very positive reset. Again, not my top priority.
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So Shotguns = AR's
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You thought you might have a bullet stuck and you pulled the trigger anyway and "prayed" it would be ok? No match is worth serious and permanent injury. No personal testing on your question but I doubt you could alter the gas enough to drop it even 10fps.
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Online: Euro Optic Gun Broker (although most are private sales or from Euro Optic) Able Ammo Or check Stoeger's website for Stoeger dealers near you. If your local Stoeger dealer does not have one in stock they should be able to order one and get it in a week or so. 24" is the hardest to find, but my dealer said he could order one and get it in less than 10 days (confirmed with a call to the Stoeger rep). Be careful with Euro Optic. I was going to buy one from him on GB, but he didn't actually have the gun in stock. I think his web site inventory is accurate, but his auctions aren't closed if he sells the item from his store. I noticed that too. Thanks for pointing that out. I think he has since pulled his gun broker 24" listing and seems to show out of stock on his website.
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ok thanks but I am not familiar with MOA?/ could you send me a link? Or just check out his vendor forum on Brian Enos. Pics up of all of his M3000 products. He has posted extensively in this thread too.
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Online: Euro Optic Gun Broker (although most are private sales or from Euro Optic) Able Ammo Or check Stoeger's website for Stoeger dealers near you. If your local Stoeger dealer does not have one in stock they should be able to order one and get it in a week or so. 24" is the hardest to find, but my dealer said he could order one and get it in less than 10 days (confirmed with a call to the Stoeger rep).
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24" at LGS for $525. Not good but didn't have to drive far.
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Perhaps but, when going to a lighter buffer you want to tone down the gas also to get the desired effect. If you just lighten the buffer without reducing gas, cycling will speed up and can introduce all sorts of malfunctions and probably will not affect recoil very much (lighter carrier hitting end of buffer tube at higher velocity). A5 system is based on reliability. I would not go messing with a lighter carrier. If you really feel the need to tinker you can remove the tungsten weight/s in the A5 buffer and replace them with lead weights (uses same size weights that are found in a typical carbine buffer).
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Correct, I kind of do a push-me pull-ya thing. I keep slight pressure of the stock into my shoulder and light pressure pushing a leg of the bipod with my support hand, driving the gun. Since most arrays I run into are spread out quite aways, I could never move or ‘set’ the gun as fast as I wanted with it out near the muzzle. While it’s not using the bipod in the traditional sense, we’re usually not making precision shots in 3gun. If I need to make a tight shot, I still can, but a 4moa target (that you can see) with good glass and decent support is fairly easy at any distance I’ve encountered at SMM3G, MG Nats, RM3G or FB3G. But, just like hoser stages, transitions are key. Know your zero, holds and the rhythm you need to get your hits at any distance. Break the shot and get moving. If you are waiting for the RO to call your hit before getting on to the next target, you’re going to get left in the dust. Ymmv, but this technique helps me keep a couple of local kids (kellyn & nils) honest….. Thank you for explaining your technique. Something for me to try.
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+1 You just dont want it slamming into the end of the tube with a violent amount of force.
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You are probably not actually waiting, but guns like the one you built have a more rolling impulse (more wieght but moving slower). Ditch the spikes buffer. They just aren't good even if you want to run a heavier buffer a conventional buffer is better than the tungstun powder spikes uses. Guns with full auto carriers, lightly gassed (as most 14.5 middies are), and heavy buffers are going to feel sluggish compared to competition style guns that are somewhat similarly lightly gassed but lightened carriers, buffers, and springs. Sounds like you are cylcling everything (since you didn't mention it wasn't). So you have built a gun based on solid operation with a somewhat slower action and rolling (but soft) recoil impulse. Good for a hard use "military" type gun but not ideal for gun games. I am sure you can make it work.
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So I take it you do not lean into the gun at all with the bipod mounted in reverse (ie loading the bipod). I would see that as a recipe for premature folding if I attempted that as it goes counter to how I have always used a bipod.
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Based on this thread, I am picking up a 24" M3000. Unfortunately, I was hoping to burn through a ton of Estate I have lying around. Jesse - is it all Estate that has trouble in M2's and M3000's? I have 1 oz #7.5 3 dram equivalent (1235 FPS). I guess if it doesn't work through the m3000 my Supernova will chew through it eventually.
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I sort my brass into categories but not particular headstamps. Good, OK, military crimped, mystery pile.
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If you don't already own it, why would you even consider getting it to try for 9mm minor? There are tons of other options out there.
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Cool. Glad you found a load you like. You are gonna need another 5k bullets to burn through that 8lb jug.
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Any results yet? Just curious. ps .3 gr jump between loads is pretty high, but Unique tends to be forgiving.
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Thanks thats what I was looking for. With the berry's from what I understand you should load as weak to medium fmj load. Kevin I would start with 5.3 and see if you like it, build from there. Be warned it is pretty dirty. Doesn't affect my glocks much but a more finicky gun might have problems. I clean mine after about 1000 rounds just because I can stand to look at it once it gets that dirty.
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I guess it depends on what you are looking for. I have used 5.3-5.4gr to 1.125 with Zero 115FMJ and Rem & Wolf primers for target practice out of G17 & G34. I think you could safely work up to 6+gr and get 1200+fps if you wanted (might be prudent to increase OAL for a heavier load). I function tested loads down to 5.1 out of a G17 and no problems (the brass was barely trickling out of the gun). I did not test that load for accuracy. Unique can be pretty dirty when not loaded up to medium/high end.
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Other possible solutions: 1) buy an older Gen3 G34...the originals didn't have locking block pins. 2) send it back to Glock...worst case, they might replace the frame for free...and then you have a mismatched serial Glock. Some people don't care about that sort of thing...some do. There were no "older" Gen3 G34's that were 2-pin models. I have have Gen3 G17 2-pin, but Glock moved onto 3pin before the G34/35 models were released. (My first post. No longer a lurker)