ryan77

I want to "start over" as far as my approach to shooting technique on AR-15s for 3gun. I have been shooting "Costa-like" stance, squred up with butstock inside shoulder and slightly hunched, I am having issues getting the red dot on target to start with and follow up shots. I have good strength and think it is a technique issue. Just watched the jerry miculek videos which were helpful. I was curious if there were other approachs or videos? I just shot my 4th 3gun match. The first was about 2 years ago I have manged to go from 59th (a couple slots off the bottom), to 36th, to 16th overall. Last match hasn't been scored yet. My rifle portion performance is really bad. I had bought a JM 930 the day before the first match and shot 25 rounds before the match and never picked up again for training (just the matches) but the shotgun portions seem to carry me through the match for whatever reason. I switched from a Glock to EAA Witness for the last two matches and seemed do well on those portions also. I was taught weaver stance early on and realize that is probably a bad idea also. I'm having both accuracy and speed problems on the AR, and they are much worse at the match than in training. I'm shooting a Suppressed SBR, that had a red dot. However I am doing good on on the distance shots, we are limited in range length so we shoot 8" steel plates at 160-200yds typically at a awkward position. I am struggling on the close to 50yd standing shots. I do have a 16" gas regulated middy with a brake, A5 buffer system, and AR Gold trigger, but am not shooting much better with it in practice. I am limited to useing Griffin QD brakes b/c of suppressor use. These don't the upward or top ports like the Miculek or Bennie Comps most of the others were using, they are just a standard 2 side port brake.

The Primary Arms 1-6x and CCOP (around $175) 1-6x are the same scope as the Strike Eagle. So the PA is another option if you want a BDC and the CCOP a cheaper option if not using a BDC. The SWFA 1-4x is a great scope for only a little more, it is more similar to the Vortex PST and Leatherwood but nicer overall, there is a really simple aim point for 100/200/300. I've always like the Burris 1-4x Tac30 for fast shooting as the the recticle is very easy for me to pickup and eye box is very forgiving, there is really a need for a red dot with it..

I ended up with a BA Hanson 16" Middy, I would recommend it. It is a nice and light with the hybrid profile and as accurate has the other barrels have tried, and it was more accruate than the Nordic and BHW barrels recommended above that I also tried. My first BHW was slightly short of being 16" (so it would have resulted in having a illegal SBR) luckly I knoticed it was slightly shorter than the other 16"s I had. The replacement had poor accuracy, worst than the LW profile barrels I had at the time. The Nordic was OK but it was rough with a .085" gas port. With factory ammo my DD LW SBR was actually more accurate than it also, but it was better than the BHW. The BA Hanson 16" has a .068" port so it is an extremely soft shooter. The other Middys I have tried had .078-.085" gas ports. Depending on what deal you get it may meet your $200 budget, they are under that when on sale. Mine was not on sale at the time but through Androcorp with a factory pinned gass block it was $220. Considering you would have to add a $20 block and $35 or so for a gunsmith to pin that is a good deal. Also it was one of the few options (along with BCM offerings) where the gas port is small enough from the factory that you really don't need an adjustable gas block. I've had build several uppers with the GM 16" mentioned also, the accuracy was good, they had .078" gas ports. I would defineatly buy the BA Hanson over it but the GM is better than many more expensive options.

Tanfo EM mags around $26 and the TF extensions are $30 new. If you have 20-28 rd stages you could get by with one extension. The Elite Match makes a lot of since in your application, it is more like a 2011. I got the dawson fiber optic front sight and one extension for mine, found a deal on 5 used mags at $15/ea.

Holsters for the Sig 2022 generally work in almost every application (plastic and leather). Springfield XD is close some some of the soft holster will work.

There was youtube video posted recently that had a review of the faxon pencil barrel, appears the reviewer was able to get a .75" Group to start, dumped a mag and then reshot a 1.75" Group. Appeared to be 100yds with Fed Gold Metal Match ammo.

Got a Ballistic Advanage "Hanson" 16" Middy I am testing now. Need to confirm accuracy against several others but so far I am impressed, gas port sizing is undersized a bit, very soft shooting. The profile is a hybrid, ends up being lighter than a gov profile without the thin section under the handguards, shoulderless design that is setup for a low profile gas block, it comes with a pinned gas block. Barrel advise will be all over the place. Before I used to shoot M193 and Priv 75gn only in matches and a ran a comparison across several my builds and several friends. The worst barrels I tested were two Blackhole Weapons barrels (that get good reviews here), ironically the best was a 11.5" DD Lightweight CHF, the Noveskes and RRA in the test were close, a mixture of other barrels in the middle. The 18" Nordic may be soft shooting but the 16" Nordic Middy (mine measured out at 16.5 were every other "16" barrel measured out at 16.1") is way over-gassed with a .085 gas port. I haven't ran the Stretch 16, but the other SS Fluted McGowen barrels I have in 300 blackout shoot OK, they were like $145 though.

I have one but I am right handed. Next to the AXTS is is probably the best lower. Large magwell is nice, all the ambi parts included are just savings, as well as the build in swivel stud (over buying an extension mount). The grenade (blem version) was a super deal when I got mine.

Carbine buffer with the weights came in at 1.0oz.

I have several commercial cans and 5 form1 builds (mostly screw together solvent trap builds). The form 1 builds I have where cheaper and probably a better option for 300blk regardless of cost. I am running a mini can on 9" 300blk. It cost around $90 to build, the 5.75" length is shorter than most cans and the 8.2oz is less than half the weight of a typical 30cal can. http://youtu.be/R9QsI7rgytQ This one used Diversified Machine ends on a maglite extension tube with car valve retainers (m300 tool steel), the other builds I have done are all with Ti tubes.

For the Barrel you would probably use Air-Dry Cerakote that has a higher temp rating, it does need an oven and you need a very limited supply of materials to do it. Also VHT Header paint from auto parts stores ($10 a can) appears to have similar properties to the high heat cerakote. Most of the work and results are in the Prep. The setup cost for me was buying a $8 Preval sprayer. I actually have HVLP and LVLP spray systems, but the Preval makes clean up so easy and the very thin cerakote is perfect for them. I've done a Glock, and number of AR-15 Recievers and parts, and Form 1 Silencers this way. Columbia coating sells the cerakote cheaper in smaller containers, the 2oz size is enough ($20) for most projects. Preval sprayer with suppressor baffles: The Tungsten Glock slide on left Two black Form 1 suppressors Various Tungsten

Thanks for advice, will try the empty buffer first.

Does anyone have opinions on if the result would be that much different between using the Taccom system vs removing the weights from a buffer? I'm not trying to be a cheapo, I have a Vltor A5 Buffer system (rifle spring with hybrid length buffer) so it would removing the weights in a buffer vs buying a Taccom rifle system and trimming length off it.

Interesting reading in the tread. I am trying to pick out a 16" for 3 gun also and not a huge fan of the most popular choices here. A couple years ago I bought a 16" middy Blackhole and Nordic for this purpose really unimpressed with either. We had got together and ran a range test on M193 and Prvi 75gn with these and several other barrels all with a 4-14x scope mounted. The most accurate was a 11.5" Lightweight DD barrel. Not sure how that happens, after that RRA and Noveske 16" Middys, a 16" DPMS carbine, then the 16" Nordic and 16" BHW and a 10.5" BHW. The 10.5" BHW was keyholing, the "16" BHW was actually cut to 15.2" or so, looks like the person doing the cutting measured from the extension to the muzzle not chamber to muzzle. The Nordic was actually 16.5". Every 16" I have seen since has been 16 1/8". Hot sure about dropping that coin on the Stretch 16" when the last McGowen (300blk) barrel I bought was only $129. Leaning to using the 18" DPMS MK12 barrel I have in spare parts bin or trying AR-15 Performance or Integrity Barrel.

I think the .110" is probably accurate, I did not have a accurate way to measure mine, but it was clearly under 1/8 (.125"), ordering a .110" Dawson FO.