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Here is one source, but they are sold out right now. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41021/Product/1911_AUTO_PARA_ORDNANCE_EXTRACTOR_SLEEVE

I wise gunsmith told me that unless you get lucky, there is no such thing as a "drop in" part on a 1911. Most 1911 parts will need to be fitted, and sometimes it results in the refitting or replacement of related parts.

Usually when you replace the trigger, sear and hammer you also either have to refit or replace the thumb and grip safety. I would bet the tab on the thumb (and grip) safety that keeps the trigger from releasing the sear is too short with the new parts and is letting the sear slip out of the hammer notch. The hammer is being held back only by the thumb safety so when you slip it off... BANG! The same thing would be true for the grip safety. Find a local smith who can install a new thumb and/or grip safety. Also have him check the fit of the new Ed Brown parts. If the person who installed the parts did not know about the possible effect on thumb and grip safety performance then I would question the rest of the work he/she did. Good luck. Do NOT send the gun back to Para if you want it fixed right and in this lifetime.

Larry makes the OEM grips for Springfield Armory's TRP 1911. I ordered a pair of Warthogs from him for my RIA 9mm Tactical. They were so nice I put them on my TRP instead and moved the grips from the TRP to the RIA. I am thinking of a set of Warthogs for a Ruger 22/45RP. He does great work.

Does anyone know if this .22 conversion kit would work on a Rock Island 9mm Tactical? My RIA has a full size frame and slide. The barrel is NOT ramped (it's GI style).

The faster and lighter the bullet the "snappier" it tends to be in recoil. Bullets like a 9mm 147 grain running at lower velocities don't have as much muzzle rise and tend to be more of a "push" straight back into the palm of the hand. With a 147 gr you only have to hit 884 fps to make a minor power factor of 130 (minimum pf is 125). Learn to reload and save some money in the process. Indoors I wear ear plugs and headphone style ear protection. Outdoors usually only one or the other.

I believe if you have the right spring installed for the load they are not needed. The spring should slow down the slide velocity just enough to take care of the frame battering issue. I have tried them but had issues with the slide release due to short stroking. I pulled the buffer out after 100 rounds and found it cracked and ready to split. I increased the spring weight a few pounds, ran without the buffer and everything was fine. I also believe the shock buff does have value in lightly sprung race guns. Some shooters (not me) are so fast that they feel like a "slow moving" slide slows them down. They feel they are ready to shoot before the gun is ready. These shooters like to run light springs, on lightened slides, to increase the slide velocity. I can see where the shock buff could be valuable in reducing frame battering in these situations. IMHO.

If you want a 1911 in 45 you should be able to find a used TRP for close to the price of a new Loaded. I have a TRP and there IS a difference in the quality of the two. You can also use a 40 S&W for SS. Steel1212 would be better able to give you suggestions on a 40 SS option. If you are looking for a double stack 40 S&W for Limited then STI and Para comes to mind. Just depends how deep your pockets are.

I had a JP Enterprises magwell on a Gen 3 G35 that I set up for Limited. I liked the way it fit on the frame and how it mounted into the back strap channel. I recently traded the G35 for a Para P16-40 Limited with a Dawson (non-ICE) magwell installed. The JP magwell went to the new owner with the Glock as part of the trade. If I were to decide to build a Glock open gun, on a Gen 3 G17 or G34 base, the JP magwell would be my first choice.

Jager has an entire kit to build a G17 open gun. Add one of their lightened strikers and a magazine well. I like the J.P. Enterprises magwell from Midway USA, but Dawson Precision's I.C.E. seems to be the most popular. http://www.jagerproducts.com/opendiv.html BTW- most of these parts are for Gen 3 Glocks (not Gen 4).

Most of the recoil you feel will be while the barrel and slide are still locked together. By the time the bullet clears the comp, and the slide unlocks from the battery, the compensator will have taken a lot of the steam out of a 9 Major load. Some compensators are designed to eliminate muzzle rise at the expense of recoil straight back into your hands. Other models strike a compromise between venting gas up to reduce muzzle rise, and venting some gas to the rear to reduce recoil. It's up to you what design you use. Either way you will probably have to go with a lighter than factory recoil spring to get the slide to function. Comps need lots of gas to work so you will need a light, fast bullet. The right combination will shoot very flat (and a little harsh) with the light Glock polymer frame. Note... if you go too light on the recoil spring you may also have to go with a lighter Wolff stiker spring to keep the factory striker spring from pulling the slide out of battery. A lighter striker spring may require a lightened striker to ensure good primer hits with the lighter striker spring. This is starting to sound like a childrens story I used to read my son... "If you give a mouse a cookie, he's gonna want a..."

Try Dawson Precision and Brownells. They both sell Para sights and might have an answer you you. http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ http://www.brownells.com/

Another vote for the plain black Sevigny sights. I have found that I can pick up the front sight faster if I see a little bit of light on either side of the front post in the rear notch. I also find dots, bars and fiber optics a distraction for ME. You may see things differently (pun intended).

Look at a Para Ordnance P18-9 Limited. It might fits your needs for a little over $1,000.

I tried the the Wilsons in two of my 1911s but removed them due to short cycling. They were just thick enough to keep the slide from moving all the way to the rear and pushing the slide stop down out of the notch when reloading from slide lock (using the slingshot method).

Check out Comp-Tac for a regular kydex belt holster and single magazine holders. I like their holsters better than Blad-tech. The prices are good and build time is only 2 business days. I use the same Comp-Tac belt holster for my 1911 9mm (IDPA ESP), TRP .45 (IDPA CDP and USPSA SS) and P16-40 Limited (USPSA Limited). I just change out the clip on Comp-Tac magazines pouches from single to double stack 1911 depending on the gun. I could use a dropped and offset race holster for Limited, but I like having the gun in the same holster position for each divison, so I don't try to reach for it in the wrong place. If you want a DOH style race holster for Limited look at the CR Speed WSMII, Ghost and Double Alpha rigs. http://www.comp-tac.com

SOLD PENDING FUNDS... somebody got a nice deal on that gun. The deals are out there, just keep looking.

Try this... I have used it in the past to reduce Major to Minor power factor loads and it was close to what the loads read over the chrono. If you know the velocity of the load you are using now, and the velocity you want to reach, this calculator will tell you the approximate weight load to try. The question is will the light load cycle the gun? For safety sake you can only go down in FPS from your baseline charge, not up. http://www.handloads.com/calc/reduced.asp

Also check Glock Talk's classifieds. You'll find everything listed there (not just Glocks). Glock Talk is where I found my used P16-40 Limited last month. It took a few days of back and forth to work out a good trade deal on a G35. The P16-40s are not real common so it may take a little while to find the right one. Chances are it will belong to someone looking to move up to a STI, SVI or other custom race gun. Don't be put off by a slightly high asking price. The good news is there in not a lot of demand for the P16s so that gives you a bargaining edge. Stay the course and you will find what you are looking for.

The gun shows in a our area require that ALL guns have wire ties (zip ties) running through the barrel and out the ejection port while in the building "for safety". Also magazines are NOT allowed to be in the guns at any time. This means you can not function check the action with dummy loads or field strip the gun for inspection at the show. You can only do a visual on the exterior and maybe shine a light down the bore. If this is the case where you are, and you find a used gun you are interested in, you might want to make arrangements to inspect the gun at another time and location. Vendors at gun shows are trying to move a much product as possible and can not spend alot of time with you at the show. However the dealer should not be in as big of a rush to move on to the next customer in his own store, you should be able to field strip the weapon and do a complete inspection. If you are serious about purchasing after your inspection, and if the dealer has a shooting range on site, ask to test fire it before purchase. Offer to buy the ammunition from him, and pay for the range time, and he shouldn't have a problem with your request. If you are unable to test fire the gun at least ask about his return policy, and make sure you get it in writing if you purchase the gun. If you are unable to do 1911 repairs on your own, you might want to make an inquiry with local gunsmiths and find out who in your area works on the make/model of gun. Some local smiths may not know about, or even work on your gun. Shipping to a smith out of town is an option, but can be expensive as you must ship vis UPS or FedEx Next Day Air. I recently shipped a used Glock G35 Gen 3 Blue Label (I traded it even for my P16-40 Limited ) from Ohio to Florida via UPS Next Day Air with adult signature and insurance and it cost me $40.00 one way. Had I been shipping the gun out for repair the round trip shipping through an FFL with transfer fees could have cost $100 or more. Everything else is "Buyer Beware".

Welcome from a Steelers fan up the road in Youngstown, Ohio.

Well, I would just take the specs for the Springfield TRP, change out the FLGR for a GI recoil system, give it a hard chrome finish, maybe the Operator light rail and call it done. If the SA custom built version called the "Professional" is good enough for the FBI SWAT agents then the TRP should work for the military. It would like to see it stay a .45 ACP, but you might have to build it in 9mm to keep the NATO folks happy. Sadly it will never happen... whimpy K.I.S.S. guns and plastic is are here to stay.

I was unable to edit my earlier post so I will revise it here. I just changed out all of my Para P16-40 magazine springs with new extended Dawson springs designed for use with their extended base pads. The new springs hold the rounds more firmly, and I am getting a more positive slide lock on an empty magazine, but I have lost one round of capacity per magazine. I now get 20 instead of the 21 rounds per magazine with the old springs. The new springs have one extra coil. I can live with the trade off.

If it is an older (Canadian built) P16-40 Limited I would say $600 to $700 based on condition, and any extras it may have as part of the package (magwell, sights, new internals, extra magazines). If the gun was "rebuilt" it could be a gem from a good pistol smith, or a hack job done by the owner so "Buyer Beware". Chances are a used P16-40 Limited was originally purchased by someone to shoot in competition, not stick in a night stand. The chances of finding a safe queen may be slim. The good news is you maybe be able to get a used one for a good price since it is not a gun that appeals to the mass gun buying public or 1911 fans. I would avoid a new P16-40 based on reports of QC issues Para is having at this time. If it was a race gun it could be a little loose, or may even need a new barrel, depending on have many round has been fired. Many people place too much importance on the slide-to-frame fit which only accounts for 5-8% of a 1911's accuracy. Check the barrel-to-the slide fit at the locking lugs, and also the barrel-to-bushing-to-slide fit. That is one of the keys to tight groups on a gun with slide mounted sights. If the gun has seen a lot of rounds you might have to fit a new oversized bushing to the barrel/slide to tighten it up again. If you get it for a good price any "gottchas" can be fixed by a good pistol smith. I would NOT send it into Para for repairs. Good luck.

Maybe the range wants to collect the brass to resell, or want to use/exchange it for the reloads they sell to shooters. One indoor range I go to has bags of range pickup brass for sale to reloaders as an additional revenue stream. However they will allow you to pickup YOUR OWN brass. Another range (a distance away) will not allow you to bring your own ammo into the building. They claim it is for safety reasons. You are required to shoot their overpriced ammo and leave the brass (I don't go there).