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wmspdi

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Everything posted by wmspdi

  1. You may have a bucket full of 10mm brass now, but if you shoot Limited you may not have it for long. Many matches are "Lost Brass" meaning when the brass hits the ground it belongs to the range (no recovery). It's when you have to pay to replace that lost 10mm brass you'll find out why most of us shoot 40s.
  2. wmspdi

    P16 Limited Advice

    I have 5 P16-40 magazines with Dawson extensions and they all use the Dawson springs. http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=3640000-1100274077 I get 20+1 rounds of 40 S&W in my Canadian made Para OEM blued tubes and followers. No problems. You might be able to shoehorn an extra round in with a different follower, or buy cutting the magazine spring a little (at the risk of FTF on the last round). I am happy with twenty reliable rounds so I never tried it. YMMV.
  3. Like this? http://www.lonewolfdist.com/ItemMedia/10000/10000_39736.jpg
  4. wmspdi

    P16 Limited Advice

    I have the same gun (Candian made without the PX) plus a Dawson Magwell and five mags with Dawson extentions. I bought my P16-40 used and had to chase down a few issues that I thought were magazine induced, but turned out to by caused by the slide stop and magazine release button. You can read all about it at http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=298470&highlight=Gotchas and find my solutions to the problems. Tight slide to frame fit is overated in a combat style gun as it increases the chances of a malfunction. However I does come into play with a frame mounted optic (Open gun). Since the sights on a Limited gun are mounted on the slide the most important thing as a good barrel to slide fit. Also Run-n-Gun isn't bullseye and the demands for accuracy are different. The larger grip size is directly related to the number of rounds it holds. As far as I am concerned it could be the size of a 2x4 if it held 30 rounds in a 140mm long magazine, but I have big hands. If the gun runs fine I don't see a need to spend a lot of money for an STI, unless you are looking for STI "bragging rights". STIs are a little lighter than the Para all stainless steel frame guns (sometimes weight is your friend without a compensator) and they do have their own set of "issues" (mag tuning amoung them). Remember the devil you know is sometimes better than the devil you DON'T know.
  5. I have a TRP AK that I picked up used (like new, no rail, low round count and at a great price). I changed out the full legth guide rod in favor of a GI style plug and spring guide. I also changed to a slightly more aggressive version of Larry Davidsons grips (Thanks Larry). I have 5 Wilson 8 round, and 5 McCormick 10 round, plus the 2 factory magazines (used for Barney bullets). The TRP eats just about any load I feed it. It's a keeper and will be passed down to my son someday.
  6. I have 5 Dawson pads on my Canadian made Para mags and each one loads 20 rounds of 40 S&W. Make sure you get the extra power springs when you get the pads. The factory springs may work, for a while, but I found they will give you problems down the road. I don't try to fit 21 in to the first mag, I just use a "Barney" instead. BTW- I've heard the older (blued) Canadian Para mags are smoother (inside the magazine tubes) than the nickle magazines. You may have to buff the interior surface a little to get the springs to run nice and smooth.
  7. WMSPDI: are you going to/did you lower your ejection port yourself? No real need to as long as the gun runs fine with your load and without the optic (that can't always be said for the Gen 4 G17s). With a slide mounted optic there is nothing hanging over the ejection port, or even near the ejection port, for the brass to hit.
  8. BTW- I should have noticed this earlier. Unless I am missing something... I believe the RTS is only available in a picatinny mount. http://cmore.com/rts.html Your only mounting options for the RTS would be a frame mount on a picatinny rail, or having a picatinny rail and cross slot milled into the rear of your Glock slide (Lone Wolf offers this style cut on their own slides, but not on Glock OEM slides). http://www.lonewolfdist.com/ItemMedia/10000/10000_39736.jpg To mount the optic in the dovetail on the slide you would have to use a C-More STS with a Glock narrow mounting plate. Sorry I didn't catch this earlier.
  9. There is no doubt that the early slide mounted dot optics were not built to the standards of the new units. The manufactures learned what to redesign through field trials conducted by their "paid beta testers" (those paid beta testers would be all of the shooters who bought those early designs and thus paid for the privaledge to test them). To break one of the newer slide mounted optics (C-More STS, JPoint, Fastfire III...) rated at 1,000Gs of shock you would have to be running an extremely light recoil spring (to get very fast slide cycling). The mass of the slide would be slamming hard against the frame at the rear of travel. I would be more concerned about slide/barrel/frame battering with that much recoil energy, than I would be concerned about breaking the optic. The newer optics (like the JPoint) have the electronics sealed in a block of resin. Switches have been redesigned or eliminated. Optic designs (like cell phones and computers) change every 12 to 18 months. The Fastfire II is not that old, yet the Fastfire III ships out this month. The dot on your gun today will soon be obsolete and you will be looking for the next to piece of new technology to replace it. I consider red dots like the Fastfire II ($200) JPoint (at $250) or STS ($300) to be expendable. They are priced to be upgraded, or replaced when worn, like magazines or compensators. Run it till it breaks, then just replace it (hey, it may still be under warrenty anyway). If it still works when you upgrade to a new optic save the old one as an emergency replacement. If they use the same mounting plate all the better. As far as which style mount you like better... it's no different than black post vs fiber optic vs big dot front iron sights. Everyone's taste is different.
  10. BTW- I missed the question about fitting gunsmith barrels. I haven't tried that with a Glock aftermarket barrel. I find the drop-in Glock aftermarket threaded barrels to be good enough for my needs. I am more concerned about chamber support running 9mm Major at +P+ pressures. I feel a tiny bit of play in the lockup isn't a bad thing as metal does expand (and possibly binds) when it gets hot. 1911 .45 shooters learned that lesson the hard way some years ago. Their hot expanding barrels seized up in their tightly fitted barrel bushings midway through a long string of fire. With a barrel block locking system (like the Glock) if it's tight, and not right, you risk peening the barrel or slide (like in the early run of the Kahr PM9s). Glocks were designed to be combat weapons so I figure if Glock doesn't hand fit their barrels to the slides why should I. If I am shooting an 8 MOA dot on a Glock I am not going to notice a 1 to 4 MOA difference between a drop-in or fitted barrel anyway. With that said... If I were charging big bucks to build race guns for sale (like SJC or Carver) that might be another story. YMMV.
  11. The optic only weighs .9 to 1.7 oz depending on make, model and mount. Going from a plastic Glock rear sight to a steel adjustable iron sight (say a Millet sight) would be about the same change in mass. If you sense a slight change in slide velocity you can either adjust the slide spring weight (down a pound), have the sight "melted into the slide (the steel removed should equal the weight of the optic), or mill out a little steel (coffin cut) from the top of the slide. The coffin cuts behind the front sight on the G34/G17L/G24/G35 slides are there to lighten the longer slide's mass to be close to that of the G17/G22. That is how all 6 guns can use the 17 lb factory Gen 3 spring. Since the optic is directly over the CG (your hand) the balance should not be effected.
  12. I am using a Jager comp, KKM barrel and a Jager UL striker, recoil rod and flat spring. I haven't decided on the dot for sure. I am leaning toward the C-More STS, but I want to see the new Burris Fastfire III before I decide. I will mount the dot on the slide for a while then maybe have it melted in once I am sure. For the lower a Decal Grip, JP Enterprises aluminum magwell and a Vanick Triger kit.
  13. I had been watching the classifieds for a few months prior to starting my Glock G17 STS build last week. I didn't see one 2011 S_I race gun below $2200.00, and most for sale in the classifieds were closer to the $2,500 range. With new STI guns approaching $4K (with magazines) driving the price of used guns skyward, I would say the short answer to finding a $1500 Trubor or GM would be... NO! IMHO start off with the Glock, PRACTICE finding and controlling the dot and just get in the game. Don't listen to the shootors who say "you must have a XXX gun to be competative", or worry about impressing the other shooters with your high priced 2011 hardware. When YOU can shoot better than the Glock, and the Glock is the only thing holding you back, it is time look at the STI or maybe a custom gun built the way you want.
  14. Agreed plus... Here is something else to think about. Having watched slow motion video of comps at work I noticed that even the best have some small amount of muzzle rise, followed by a small amount of muzzle dip when the slide closes. The center of the guns rotation (CG) during recoil is directly above your hand. Just like a teeter-totter the farther down the arm you extend beyond the pivot point (say a frame mounted optic on the other side of the ejection port) the greater the up-down motion will be. In theory, with a slide mounted red dot directly over your hand and slightly forward of the center of rotation, the dot's up-down movement would be less. Same degrees of rotation, but a shorter arm of rotation (1.5" forward of CG in battery to 1.5" rear of CG during ejection). As a result as the slide moves to the rear, and then back forward, the sight window should not lift or dip enough for the dot to leave the window (assuming a proper hold, a good comp and the right load). Weight x arm = moment so the farther down the arm from the CG the greater the moment the sight will have on the gun in recoil (simple leverage). A frame mounted C-More Slide Ride (not STS) may put a few onces forward to help with recoil. However at a little over an ounce weight from an STS (plus the weight of the mount) it should not be a real factor. With that said, I am building my G17 as a slide ride with a 7 MOA STS. If you have the correct weight recoil spring, and your ejector/extractor are tuned right, the brass shouldn't hit the STS or you. Just my $.01 after taxes... AFTER THOUGHT: The slide to barrel fit on Glocks is very good so the dot and barel should re-zero shot after shot. However, being a combat gun the slide to frame fit is a bit loose, and that means the dot may not always realign with the barrel when returning to battery. Unless you plan to have the slide to frame fit tighened to eliminate the slop, the slide mounted optic should be more acurate shot after shot. In addition the Carver mount is bulky and requires a modified CR-Speed holster, the STS micro dot mount requires drilling and counter boring holes in your frame for installation. IMHO the slide mount is the cleanest, most accurate and easiest way to mount the dot. Now we're up to $.02 worth.
  15. I decided to just get a new G17 Gen 3 to build on so I won't need the aftermarket slide after all.
  16. I am not a fan of the bevel/bull nose taper at the muzzle of the Lone Wolf Slide. It doesn't look right with a comp, and LWD doesn't sell it any other way. I would rather have the squared off, but slightly rounded, traditional Glock slide profile. This slide was suggested by a Glock Open builder as a viable alternative so I thought I would look into it. I may just break down buy a G17 Blue Label Gen 3 and have at it. This way I can mod the G17 frame for open as well.
  17. Anybody tried one of these bare Glock 17 SS replacement slides sold on Glockstore.com http://glockstore.com/pgroup_descrip/383_Slides+%26amp%3B+Frames/7365_Replacement+Glock+Slide/?return=%3ftpl%3Dindex%26category_id%3D383%26_Slides%2B%26amp%3B%2BFrames%2F I am thinking of using one of these to build a slide ride optic/comp upper (Jager kit, Jager striker, and Glock OEM slide parts) that I can switch out on my G34 frame.
  18. I was chatting will Billy Lester at Jager by email today and he had the same comments. He has talked me out of using the G17L as a base gun to build on. So much for that idea. Better to throw it out here, and get it shot down, than spend money on a mistake. Now I have to decide between pushing a 9mm to Major pf (at very high pressures) in a G17 or playing it safe with a G22 40 S&W and the reduced round count.
  19. Why not build the gun on a G17L? I have been thinking about doing this for some time. The base gun does cost a little more but... With 1.5" more barrel length than a G17, you will gain 110 to 120 fps velocity (based on a 125 gr 9mm +P). This will allow you to load less powder reducing the risk of a compressed charge, run at safer chamber pressures, still make major power factor, and have enough gas to work the comp. With a slide length of 8.5", plus a 2-2.5" comp, the gun won't be much longer (if any) than an STI 2011 GM at 10.5". With a lighter gun there should be no problems with transitions from target to target (even at the longer overall length). The mass of the G17, G34, and G17L slides are the same (do to the cutouts) so they should all run at the same speed and recoil impulse. The slides all move to the rear and then forward into battery the same distance during recoil so the recoil pulse remains unchanged. The extra length of the G17L barrel adds a little muzzle weight again helping control recoil. The G17L comes stock with a 3.5 connector, extended magazine release button and extended slide lock (if you like those). If you like a frame mounted optic, the longer slide puts the comp a little further out protecting your optics. For dove tail optics no change. The front of the G17L slide has the same profile as the G17, instead of the bull nose of the G34, so it will mate and blend better with the Jager or SJC comp. The only down side is the gun may by a little bit too long to fit in a C-R Speed holster (depending on comp length) and may require a style of race holster without a muzzle cup or muzzle plug. With that said, and my asbestos underwear on, go ahead... Flame Away!
  20. I have a Blade Tech plastic (not Kydex) paddle holster for a G23. My G34 will fit in a pinch, although the muzzle of the G34 extends below the holster. I used it until I could get a Comp-Tac made for my G34.
  21. Can anyone recomend a place to have a S&W Model 10-11 HB hot blued in north east Ohio or western PA? I tried doing a cold blue touch up for now, but the gun really needs to have some light scratches and nicks buffed out and then a completed hot blue job to look good. I will be using this gun for IDPA, but I still want it to look nice with my hand gun collection (that pride in ownership thing I guess). I have found one service in Erie, PA for $100 with an average turn around time of 30 days. The price is right, and I can live with that time frame, but I am still looking for a few additional options as well. I would rather not ship the gun due to the UPS 2nd day costs involved, and the additional delay. Thanks.
  22. BTW- If you don't like the LCI there is a guy on the Rimfire Forums who make filler plates to replace the LCI. I bought one for my 22/45 MK III. Really nice workmanship. I have posted a link to the last page of the thread which contains ordering details (see below). http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310919&page=41 There is also another guy on Rimfire out of Toronto who makes hammer bushings to allow you to remove the magazine disconector on the MK III Rugers. His name is Sam and you can email him at sg552.2@gmail.com for details.
  23. You're right, I forgot about IDPA's rule about removing a "safety device", even if it is only one installed to keep the lawyers happy. It should still be possbile to install an extractor tube sleeve and retain the series 80 parts. I have a (series 70) Springfield Armory TRP with 8 round Wilsom ETM magazines (CDP), and a Rock Island Armory 9mm FS Tactical with 10 round Wilson ETM magazines (ESP) for just that reason. I bought my used P16-40 Limited for use in USPSA Limited and Limited 10 divisions where such "mother hen" rules do not exist. I was careful to buy an early 2000 Candian version WITHOUT the Para Power Extractor garbage.
  24. NOTE: You may have to remove the Series 80 parts from the slide when you install the sleeve. If you do, I suggest you also replace the parts in the frame (lever arms) with a series 80 frame spacer. Removing the Series 80 firing pin safety parts will do wonders for your trigger pull. However, if this is to be a carry gun you might want to think twice about changing ANYTHING. There are possible liability issues if a modified weapon is used in a self defense shooting. Good luck.
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