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Well, it helps if you know your way around a 1911, can analyze many of the problems and repair them yourself. That is what I did with the P16-40. When I bought my first 1911 back in 1975 they were very loose, and wouldn't feed anything but hardball, so you learned how to make them run. Over the years manufactures made ramp/throat improvements to feed hollow points. The guns are also much tighter which has also resulted in some reliability issues out of the box. With skilled labor a major expense the factories have to either charge a small fortune to tune each gun or leave it to the new owner to "wear them in" to seat the parts with hundreds of rounds of ammo. I have a $400 Rock Island that has run from day one, but I have also seen $1500 1911s choke out of the box. There really is no way to know until you get it to the range. Para has had some issues with quality control since they moved to the USA around 2004. I would look for a Canadian made Para without the PXT Power Extractor. The PXT extractor didn't work too bad on the 45, but has had a troubled track record on the 9s and 40s from what I have read. Also look for the older blued magazines for the P16 or P18. The newer chromed magazines tend to have a little rougher finish inside and may require some work to get the magazines spring and follower to slide smoothly. With a used Para you could be buying someone else problems, or you could find one like I did that runs well, and the owner just decided to move up to a custom 2011. BTW- Someone describe the Para P16-40 as 90% of an STI at 50% percent the price. If you are able to take the Para the last 10% yourself for an additional 10% as I did it is a great deal.

A few months ago I decided to replace my Glock G35 Limited gun with a steel framed 1911 or 2011 double stack. I ended up trading even for a used Canadian Para P16-40 Limited with a Dawson magwell and 4 factory magazines with Dawson base pads. I wrote a detailed account of my experiences getting the Para ready to race. You may find some of the information useful. I posted a link to the thread below. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=298470

He has a point. The 40 S&W can be downloaded with light weight bullets (at minor power factors) to shoot like a 9mm in ESP. The same 1911 40 could be used for ESP with minor loads, Single Stack and Limited 10 with major loads. You would still need a 45 to shoot CDP (45s only), and a double stack in 40 S&W to shoot in Limited. I have a Glock 34 for SSP/Production, 1911 9mm for ESP, a 1911 45 for CDP/Single Stack/L10 (8 and 10 round magazines) and a 1911 double stack 40 (Para P16-40 Limited) with 21 round magazines for Limited and Limited 10. I don't shoot open (yet). I have all the divisions covered with four guns. Works for me.

I have been loading on a Lee Pro 1000 for about 20 years. The only problems I had were when I was using RCBS dies from my old RCBS Jr single stage press. Now all of my dies are Lee and the 1000 runs like a well tuned race car for me. I tear it down once a year to clean and lube it. Caliber switch overs are quick and easy for me. I keep an eye on the primer feeder and give it a little tap every 6 or 7 rounds (out of habit) so I don't have any misprimed shells. I don't use an automatic bullet feeder as I prefer to visually check each powder charge and place the bullet on the case. I load 6 different calibers on the Lee 1000. It's not as fast as a Dillion but I just never saw the need to drink the $$$ blue Kool-Aid. I never had any problems with the Lee, and I wasn't looking to impress anyone, so why change. Maybe I just got a good one.

If you are just looking for the feel of the 40 recoil impulse try loading a 180 gr 45 (Berry's make one) to a 170 PF. It will feel just like a 180 gr 40 S&W, but out of your favorite 1911 45. The cost of the 180 gr 45 bullets is about the same as 180 gr .40/10mm bullets. You'll need a little more powder in the 45 case to make the same power factor. I load 5.0 gr of W231 in the 40 and 6.0 in the 45. 40 S&W brass is cheaper but since the 45 is a lower pressure round your 45 brass should last longer than the higher pressure 40s. Wilson and CMC make 10 round 1911 45 magazines (I have the CMC version). Now if you want a gun for USPSA Limited look into a 2011 or double stack 1911 in 40 S&W. Use 140mm high cap magazines for 20/21 rounds in Limited, then download them to 10 rounds for Limited 10. I have a pre 2002 Para P16-40 Limited set up with a Dawson magwell, Para factory 120mm magazines and Dawson base pads. My Para shoots flatter than my Glock 35 did at Major PF. I actually like the Para widebody a little better than my Springfield TRP because I have big hands. If I had the money to blow I would look into a 2011 STI. Just an idea.

Welcome from a neighbor in Poland, Ohio. A few things to mention. Watch out for richochets at American Range. The backstops have seen better days. Lowellvile Rod and Gun requires the use of lead bullets at their indoor range. The 22 won't be a problem, but if shooting centerfire cartridges reloads might be in order. WARNING: If shooting a Glock replace the factory barrel with an aftermarket before shooting any lead bullets. Lone Wolf Distributing makes an inexpensive alternative. Quite a few gun clubs in the area (within about an hours drive of Poland) offer monthly IDPA and USPSA matches on the weekends. A short list of the clubs include: Lawrence County Sportsman Assoc Youngstown Rifle and Pistol Castlewood Beaver Valley Rifle and Pistol Pardoe Sportsman's Club A search for clubs on the IDPA and USPSA web sites will return even more options. Good luck.

Para does not make 140 or 170mm magazines. STI/SVI magazines are not a direct fit in a Para so either the STI/SVI mags have to be modified, or the magazine release button changed and modified. The STI/SVI magazines are more tapered at the top (due to design of their 2011 frame) and are a little easier to insert into the gun on a speed load, but they hold less rounds than a Para stock magazine with Dawson extended base pads and extended magazine springs. I have a pre 2002 P16-40 and use 5 Para magazines with the Dawson +5 base pads and Dawson extended magazine springs. I get 21+1 rounds. Your best bet for a Para P16-40 would be this combination. BTW- Regarding "Buy American" now that Para is in the USA. Para moving to the USA was not a good thing based on numerous reports posted on the internet. They seem to have had QC and customer service problems after leaving Canada. You might be better off buying a used Canadian made Para without the (junk) Power Extractor. That is what I did. Just my $.02 for what it's worth.

Jager explains this on their website. The slide-to-frame fit on a Glock is loose by design to increase reliability in combat conditions, however the barrel-to-slide lockup is nice and tight. A frame mounted optic will not be as accurate as a slide mounted optic unless the slide-to-frame fit is corrected. Due to the excess horzontal and verticle play the slide will not always return to the exact same point on the frame. By mounting the optic on the slide you take the frame-to-slide fit out of the equation. The slide mounted optic is also closer to the center of rotation in recoil reducing the up/down movement of the dot. If the gun shoots flat this may have less of an effect. Some shooters are distracted by the dot moving with the slide in recoil. The lack of a mount/optic over the ejection port eliminates the need to have the port lowered and tuned due to brass hitting the mount and jamming on ejection. The slide mounted dot is easier to find because it is near where you are used to looking for iron sights (this issue can be overcome with practice). 1911s with frame mounted optics have tight slide to frame fits. That is one reason the 1911 race guns with frame mounted C-Mores are so expensive. Some 1911 shooters are now using mounts that rotate the optics 90 degrees to get them lower and closer to the slide (like a slide mount) and also reduce the chance of contact with ejecting brass. A Glock Unlimited gun with a 3.5 lb trigger in 9 Major gets you in the game for 1/3 the price of a STI True-Bor. I personally am not good enough to be held back by the difference in the slightly lighter 1911 trigger. YMMV.

I don't think you are weird. I have my range Glocks and 1911s set up the same way. I just don't feel comfortable playing "Run-N-Gun" with hair triggers.

I had to remove the FLGR from my factory stock Springfield TRP in order to make weight with Wilson ETM 8 round mags. When I added Monkey Grips, a Wilson magwell, checkered front strap and 10 round Wilson ETM mags to my RIA 9mm Tactical I had to lose the FLGR because I was 1 oz over weight with the changes. The G10 grips and Wilson magwell and mags were worth the minimal expense of switching to a GI style recoil spring setup. I am not a big fan of full length rods anyway. I agree the weight rule should be waived for fully stock production guns if they are on the approved list. BTW - I checked the weight of each gun with a calibrated scale to insure accuracy.

It looks like an Arredondo base pad for a Para widebody 45 ACP magazine.

Does anyone have first hand experience with this holster: http://www.blade-tech.com/Speed-Rig-D-OS-Holster-pr-1314.html I am thinking about buying one for my Para P16-40 to use for USPSA Limited. I first looked at a CR Speed WSM II and DAA Race Master, but I didn't want to deal with locking levers and weggies. Plus, I read the Paras tend to wiggle in the Race Masters because the curve of the Para trigger guard is not an exact fit in the 1911 block. I also read on this forum about guns falling out of various race holsters during sitting and prone starts. Without locking levers, only using a friction fit and a holster recess molded to the trigger guard for retention, it makes drawing and re-holstering as simple as my IDPA Comp-Tac belt holster. I just want to be sure my gun will be secure when holstered in the Blade-Tech Speed Rig D/OS holster. Oh, and I doesn't hurt that the BT is less than half the price of a CR Speed and DAA. Money saved on the holster is money than can be spent on ammo and match fees! Thanks for the input.

I spoke with Dawson today and will be ordering new springs from them later today. Thanks for your input.

I recently purchased a pre 2002 Para P16-40 used. The package included 4 blued Para magazines with Dawson +5/6 base pads. I disassembled all of the magazine to clean them and noticed they looked to be the factory original springs. I have no idea the age of the springs, but they felt a little weak compared to the springs that came with my Glock Arredondo and Taylor Freelance base pads. I plan to replace all of the Para magazine springs before use, but I am unsure what I need. Wolff sells +10 springs in the stock length, but also offers extended length springs (extra 3 coils) for magazines with extended base pads. The Wolff web site claims these extended springs require modification but give no other information. I assume the springs would have to be trimmed based on the make and model of the base pad. The question is how much. Dawson also offers springs (made by Wolff) for Para HI CAP magazines, but doesn't say if they are for stock mags, or use with their base pads. Their web site provides no other information. From experience what's the best way to go?

I have a Para P16-40 Limited with Dawson pads for USPSA Limited. I am thinking of picking up a used Para P18-9 to build into a 9mm Major compensated red dot gun for open division. What is holding me back is finding one or two 170mm magazines that are USPSA open legal. I tried various searches but did not find anything current on this subject. Do I have any options other trying to modify a STI mag? A new or used S_I race gun is out the budget for a few years, so my only other option would to be to build the gun based on a Glock G17 Gen 3 with Taylor +10 extenders.

I recently tore the rotator cuff in my shooting shoulder and find it almost impossible to draw from my high-ride leather pancake holster, and some what painful to draw from my Comp-tac belt holster. However once my Glock G34 and G35 are clear of the holster I can shoot a string without a problem. Due to work commitments I won't be able to have the shoulder repaired until the first of the year, but I don't want to lose the summer shooting season. I was thinking of backing away from IDPA in favour of shooting USPSA Limited with my Glock 35 (major pf). I thought I might use a CR Speed holster due to it's low mount on the belt and short draw. I found two versions of the CR Speed holster for my Glock, the "Model G" and the "WSM II". Both holsters seem to serve my needs, but the Model G is available from Brownells for $110 vs the WSM II which seems to go for between $162 and $180+ depending on the dealer. I understand that there is a little more range of adjustment with the WSM II, but the Model G seems to have the correct drop from the belt and adjustable rake. Is there a reason to not save the 50 to 70 bucks and just go with the Model G? I have tried to search for reviews for the Model G but can not find any on the web. Thanks.

It sounds like two 20 round extended mags (one in the gun and a reload) plus two 15 round stock mags should be enough for Limited. That's 70 rounds total. If I miss enough to blow through the 3rd mag (15 rounds) and get to the 4th magazine (14 rounds after the Barney Bullet) I'll be out of the running anyway. I may order 3 Arredondo Extension kits so I have an extra just in case I want to convert a third magazine.

I have a Glock 35, and eight 15 round .40 S&W factory magazines, that I am planning to use for USPSA Limited and Limited 10. I will be ordering Arredondo +5 magazine extentions to take some of them up to 20 rounds for Limited. How many 15 round stock magazines will I need for Limited 10, and how many will I have to convert to 20 rounds to compete in Limited. I have a Comp-Tac belt holster, 4 mag pouches and an instructor belt and have worked up major PF handloads. The mags are the last element left, other than the skill... Thanks.

Between the responses posted here (and on another forum where I asked this question) it looks like my best option will be a G17 with a Jager kit. It may not be as competative as an STI/SVI 2011 style gun but it gets me into the game for a price point I can handle. Since I can buy the G17 for the Glock LEO Blue Label price and a Jager/Lone Wolf barrel package I could do the entire project for under $1,000. I will just have to be carefull working up my 9 Major loads for the G17. Thanks for the respones.

I am thinking about building an unlimited/open gun for GSSF and USPSA. I had planned on using a ported G35 as a base gun. This would allow me to make Major Power Factor without having to hot rod my handloads. I dropped that plan due to comments I read regarding .40 S&W magazine capacity. Currently my options are: Start with a G17 and replace the stock parts with a barrel/comp, C-More STS, lightweight striker, springs, rod, trigger work, mag well... or G34 with a 4 port Lone Wolf barrel, C-More STS, lightweight striker, springs, rod, trigger work, mag well... The advantage to using the G34 as a base would be a feel close to my G34 IDPA gun (and G35 Limited gun), the ability to remove the barrel for cleaning, compatabilty with my G34/35 holster, slightly shorted overall length, better balance and much lower cost to build the gun. My concerns and questions are: 1- Will I get enough energy from the ported G34 barrel to eliminate muzzel lift with minor and major loads? 2- Since a ported G34 barrel has a slightly shorter length of solid barrel before the ports start bleeding off gas (compared to a G17 barrel and compensator) will I be able to make Major 9 with handloads. BTW- for those who like to say "use the search function"... been there and done that. Although I have a Springfield TRP, and love the 1911/2011 flatform, an STI/SVI is out of my budget range at this time, plus it could not be used for GSSF. I can buy a either of the Glock base guns listed above with a Blue Label LEO discount keeping the cost down. Cost is a BIG factor, but I don't want to waste time and money on something doomed to fail from the start. Thanks.

If it's a Gen 1 or 2 (without the finger swells on the front of the grip) a slip on rubber grip might help.

Cannot say the same things for me, theyre an aid in gun manipulaton when I needed it. Said problems are specific to grip style and technique. Should try and test them first if you want them. I agree, that's why I said "They can cause problems". I had to remove the extended slide releases from my Glocks when I switched from a "thumb-over-thumb" to "thumbs forward" grip. I still have the extended mag releases on my range guns, but not on my G23 duty gun due to the risk of a premature mag drop. Some holsters (like my duty holster) may press in on the extended mag button releasing the magazine. If I drop a mag or lock the slide back in a match I lose points, in a gun fight I could lose my life. IMHO the risks out weigh the advantages for all but DEDICATED range guns... YMMV. Just my $.02 worth (adjusted for inflation).

Make that 2 votes for Sevigny sights. I have the plain black competition model on my G17, G22, G34 and G35. I plan on getting a set for my Springfield TRP .45 as soon as they are available from Warren Tacticle. The second change would be the 3.5 lb connector and then do the $.25 action job on the gun. Skip the extended slide and mag releases. They can cause problems with premature slide lock or mag drops.