thebridge

Here’s one way. Use the filters to find what you want https://practiscore.com/search/matches

I second what he said. Dry fire until it is there every time.

I’m trying to post a video of my recoil management for all to laugh at. ...It seems a good laugh is needed.

I’ll take a stab at it before you reply... The light strike problem.. Pull the striker out. As you do notice any resistance. This should be straightforward and like clock work...press down on the plastic housing thing, remove the plate from the rear of the slide, push down on the block (click) and the striker comes out. If any friction is felt, I would look for a reassembly error when you put in the competition spring. No strike when everything is assembled... If I’m reading your first post correctly, it sounds like the stiker is hitting the block. If I remember correctly..by CLOSING the loop (candy cane) it allows the trigger more travel rearward before the sear is engaged and the striker is released. This will also give the cam on top of the trigger bar more travel to deactivate the striker block. If I’m correct about this, and if you close the loop to much, you’ll end up not releasing the striker at all. If that happens, open the loop a small amount at a time until you have a very small but noticeable amount of over travel (mine is about a business card thickness), short reset and enough travel to deactivate the block. CB

So you’ve removed the striker block and getting 50% ignition, and with it installed the striker is not passing it? Is that correct?

have you solved the problem? I might know what’s up.

Then you should be ok. I don’t have the ram

Btw.. you’ll likely have an issue with the APEX sear not resetting if you use it with the competition sear spring. There’s not enough time for the little guy to always get the job done. When I was sorting this out with my 5” 9, I couldn’t tell much, if any, difference between it and the factory one.

True about the short chamber. As to stock M&P barrel accuracy....No doubt about it an Apex can tighten things up in the gun and on target...but...I’ve read folk making the statement that their stocker M&P barrel groups better when it’s dirty. I’d like to make an observation on that as I’m currently dealing with the same. Brass needs something to hang on too. Dirty cambers do *sometimes* cause accuracy to IMPROVE because the brass sticks in the chamber. I’m talking dewell time. During expansion, as the bullet is leaving, to clean or polished chamber and the gun will start to cycle..unlock. Notice the 1911 brass at the range that have a smeared primer strike...that’s prolly what’s up. Grimed chambers offer more for the brass to grab. (Yes..I know full well there’s more to the story of why some M&Ps have accuracy issues.) I’ll be ordering an Apex soon. Until then, I’m not cleaning her up before a match. ....She likes to play a little dirty. CB

I figured that was you reasoning. Id seriously have a 2.0 40L on order if they could be had in all black. That’s VERY repetitive tolerancs by S&W ..or you got lucky with that fit. Btw..how is the Apex in the 2.0 vs 1.0?

I’ll be watching for replies... Is this “full-size” top end a long slide by chance? ...Id like a 2.0 L in black.

Didn't have any ejection problems when I still had it. Did at first,..Lowered the port

Nice video! Good work! I'd like to comment on what could be happening.. Two things.. 1- OAL is a big deal to accuracy in group size. 2- grip on gun is being Influanced by recoil duration/implulse, causing the gun to travel left in your hands. I say that because those groups are not as tight.

Nice video! Good work! I'd like to comment on what could be happening.. Two things.. 1- OAL is a big deal to accuracy in group size. 2- grip on gun is being Influanced by recoil duration/implulse, causing the gun to travel left in your hands. I say that because those groups are not as tight.

Your slide is returning to fast. Fixes... Stronger mag spring ....cut coils from recoil spring (long explanation why, but it slows spring rate) ...polish up the mag lips.

Listen to BARKVIBE! This is a big deal and it's called head space...Glocks will drop the FP while out of battery. Play with the spring that helps you pull the trigger first. Pm me if you don't know what that is.

He's correct. Also, with these type pistol, part of the trigger weight is striker spring..the reason we replace these. Mess with the other spring that helps you pull the trigger first. To answer your question. What you find in lighter weights will still be in the "range" needed to pop the primer. After those...use softer primers.

Fish, I like you.. If the bullet moves, we can feel it...hold is extremely important in long guns..that's why snipers rarely shot the same zero. With perceived recoil...impulse is true...that's all I disagree with in what you said...but I'm 100% with you on everything else. I think this is a game of feel. Feel good= go fast. Feel confident= smooth trigger pull. speakimg of feel and efficiently.. We obviously agree based on our comments...but the game changes when there's a comp screwed to the end...that's for a diff thread:)

Pardon the grammatical errors and screwy math.. 80/20=100%...every time...don't be afraid to screw up!

Daytona nailed it. It's all about impulse... I go 147s over 2.9 or 3.0 grns of Vit. ..855fps...g34. Here's what happens in a nut shell...Cut coils off spring until it softens the flip. (All factory spring are able to handle full house loads). You need to stop before the slide slams the stops. (You'll know when this happens by feeling a noticeable bump and sight lift). Ok like I was saying... Primer fires, powder burns bullet moves. We will feel the opposite force (Isaac) but heavier and a tailored load will be smooooother...more progressive acceleration. You want your powder burn to stop when the bullet exits. ...if you have a huge flash..back off power and you will not loose MUCH fps. Next felt is the spring and slide...bunch of mass the has to stop- recoil spring and slide stop. If it don't slam, it ain't bad. What I would do... Buy a press..learn to reload. (It's worth it if only because of satisfaction that you did it yourself) Buy extra lower weight springs. Find a load to make 125pf. Cut coils one at a time. Polish mag lips to feed @ less spring weight....in a nutshell. Work on a high grip with proper 70/30 or 80/30 pressure and a good even stance that promotes this "impulse" to distribute evenly though your arms into your torso. Beautiful thing when it works. Lastly....never don't be afraid to screw up. You'll learn so much more than some random guy on a forum typing on his phone could ever tell you.

Wow! Just remembered my login. It's been 4 years! Sadly I finished this project and traded it. Had another kid...Nuff said!? I can say this...it was awesome and I have the itch to build another.

I'm sure it will!! just dont settle until you get the parts you want.

Thanks again for the time you all took to answer my question. After reading all of this I must ask where are you getting "once" fired brass? How do you know? Is it military range brass?

Thanks guys!! I have been using the brass that I bought new over again. Back in the beginning the dude at kkm said never use anything but new, he was covering his *** I'm sure. What about Glocked brass? You can see the primer strike and see the bulge from factory barrels. How you all feel about this? Even with the kkm I can still find the worked side after it sees major loads.

what do you use?? new or "once" fired brass for 9 major? I have been using only new brass AND once from the same gun for major loads. With thousands of once or more fired brass it would be nice to use these if its "safe". I have noticed that in the beginning I used some glocked brass and I could see where the bulge stress had been. Here are the details... glock 22 40/9mm kkm, 8.1hs6/124=1350ish. I'm not asking what you think about MY load. I want to know what brass you use and if you shoot it from a glock, even better.