Braxton1

Perhaps the language barrier is causing this, but I think that I'm hearing that you are having Failure to Extract issues, leaving an empty casing in the gun and a live round trying to feed in behind it. If so, there are a myriad of things that can cause this: 1. The extractor is broken or extremely dirty; the extractor spring is weak; 2. There is an annular gouge in your chamber (assuming an aftermarket barrel). The casing swells to fill in this gouge and makes the casing stick inside the gun. This groove is usually made when the 'smith cuts the chamber and a metal chip sticks to the cutter. This gouge is normally not a problem, but when one is shooting Major, the brass deforms into this groove more. By the way, since nobody else mentioned it: The #5 and #8 Glock 40 followers are not inter-changeable. With the advent of the 6, the mag body design was changed to make the feed lips point higher on the feed ramp, reducing jams with some bullet profiles. There are a few 6s out there, very few 7s (short production run), and a lot of current-production 8s.

In actuality, the recoil spring test from Glock is to hold the trigger to the rear and point the gun to the ceiling. Slowly lower the slide and ensure that it closes all the way. This requires a little more spring pressure than the method described in one of the first posts. My vote is for "a chunk of primer material is floating around inside the firing pin channel". I see a lot of this, particularly with Fed and Winchester primers, but usually in hotter loads. There is a little bit of primer flowback into the firing pin window. When the barrel unlocks and the primer is "wiped" down the breechface, the sharp edges of that window will shear off chunks of primer metal.

Pics attached of both the standard G-22 with a Prezine magwell (notice the half-moon cut-out at the frontstrap) and the 22RTF with a Prezine (without the cut-out). I can't do a Dawson ICE, as mine is perma-attached. (I sorta kinda LOVE J.B. Weld!!)

Haven't had any problems out of my 4. For 18 bucks and the ability to use factory mags without extended pad, I have put them on my SWAT 35 and my duty guns. Like I said earlier, for me, it's more of a grip adaptor that gives me some support on the heel of my hand and keeps the edge of my hand from rolling over the end of the grip. Later today, I will post a pic of the magwell on a 22RTF, showing where the lack of a front cut-out makes a difference.

Mine is a little noisy, but since putting a rheostat on it, it has worked fine. I have one of the earlier ones (before the Dillon-installed rheostat). I made a rheostat for it, and then did the Dillon upgrade when they offered it. I think that your ideo of sound-insulating the tube itself is the way to go. Mine is quiet as a church mouse without the tube in it.... I wonder if packing some open-cell foam down in the tube would work. I may have to try that later!

I've done the Prezine version on my 22RTF, but it is more of a "grip enhancement" piece for me, making the grip longer and supporting the heel of my hand. Since the RTF doesn't have the half-moon cut-out at the bottom of the frontstrap, I can see it being a little more challenging to fit up a magwell. Perhaps some judicious application of JB Weld or other epoxy filler would smooth that out.

The Lee dies work well but not on a progressive machine like the 1050. I say this from experience and after talking to the Dillon engineer. If you have got the dollars I got a Case Pro 100 that is one sweet machine...better then Lee Dies because it does more....FWIW The only issue that I've had with the U-Die, whether in a 650 or a 1050, is that the force required to stroke the handle is significantly more and tends to slow me down a bit. Otherwise, it seems to work fine. I haven't had any alignment problems caused by the smaller (practically "none") radius at the die mouth.

About the only thing that I would consider doing is chamfering the decapping pin. Just chuck it in a drill and make the end round. The "square"-ish end on the decap pin will oftentimes hold the spent primer on the end of the pin and re-insert it into the pocket as the pin is being drawn back. I've had this happen a lot, on both the old-style decapper and the new. It's a massive PITA on a 1050!!!

Yep, 40/357s are white, 9mm is black, and 10/45 is olive-colored. The old non-LCI bearings have a thicker head and put more tension in the extractor spring than the new LCI bearings. The difference is because the rear of the extractor is also shaped a little differently on the LCIs. So, a simpler way to get increased extractor tension would be for you to switch to a LCI extractor and keep the same bearing in it that you have now. I have run 40 extractors in my Production gun, because of the 5-degree relief on the extractor hook. It ran great with less of a pronounced hesitation where the hook starts to grab the rim. I don't think that would be do-able in an Open gun because it would probably cause the spent round to eject higher, likely hitting a scope mount.

I will be at the factory on Monday or Tuesday. I will be sure to mention this to the Plant Manager.

Just like any type of metal, keep a light film of oil on the metal parts, particularly the ram itself. That is the most-prone to rusting. I would be more worried about keeping components (primer and powder) in a non-climate controlled environment. You may be able to hide those under your bed (where you hid those magazines as a teenager....)

On my G-34 with a KKM, I had to run a Manson finish reamer thru it before it would run reliably with any sort of reloads. Out of the box, it would run with factory new ammo, but not reloads. Most of the metal removed by this reamer came from the front half of the chamber, making me believe that the chamber had a bit more taper to it.

I took one of our officer's Mossberg 590A1 and installed a Modified choke tube. We do that for all of our guns. On this particular one, I tried a wingshooter's trick and reamed and lengthened the forcing cone in the barrel. I just test-fired it with Winchester 8-pellet Low Recoil buckshot. Ordinarily, you'd expect a 10- to 15-inch pattern at 15 yards with this ammo and an unmodified gun. This thing shot 2.75 inches!! (And the Winchester is not the best-patterning ammo that we have. Usually, the Remington 8-pellet L.R. load is much better, I just didn't have any handy.) Picture is attached. The larger hole in the "southwest" region of the pattern contains 4 pellets.

Do you REALLY want to hear about this machine EVERY OTHER DAY????? Remember, nobody ever "saves" money by purchasing a progressive reloader. They just shoot a WHOLE LOT MORE!!

I have used 200s in a Glock with a factory barrel, but I only used slow powders and loaded to the max OAL that I could fit in the mag (the exact number escapes me now, as I don't have my reloading log with me). Never had a problem with it. I had a similar blow-out a couple of months ago with 180s. I was using the U-Die but quit using it because it was slowing down the 1050. That was a big mistake, as we suspected bullet set-back. There was a test done a few years ago by a certain manufacturer of 40 caliber pistols. They shortened the rounds and found that .030 set-back could double the pressures at a certain point.

As Pharoah said, it will work, per se, with just an ejector swap. The issue that I see is that the second generation 17 frame is probably a 2-pin gun (One trigger pin, one trigger housing pin). The newer guns (and all of the 40s) have three pins, with the addition of a second pin through the locking block). That gives more rigidity to the locking block, which is needed with the increased slide velocity of the 40s. The side-effects of a 40 on a two-pin gun probably won't be catastrophic, but there will probably be more lift of the locking block when the lower lug hits it to unlock the barrel. When it rises, the locking block taps the bottom of the slide and will peen it a bit. This will probably be more pronounced in the two-pin gun. BTW, Glock doesn't sell Ejectors by themselves now. They are only sold as an assembly with the rest of the Trigger Housing.

Hans Vang at VangComp Systems builds a 1 and a 2-shot extension. Available thru Brownells.

SAVE THE DINOSAURS!!!! SEVEN DROPS OF OIL???? You're lubing the thing like it's a danged 1911..... From the factory: One drop of oil on your finger, spread this out on the outside of the barrel, paying attention to the lower lugs also. Your finger will still be wet. Wipe the excess oil in the inside of the slide where the barrel rides. Second Drop of oil: Put on the fingertip again and then touch all four hard points (frame rails) with it. Third drop goes at the trigger bar/connector junction in the right-rear corner of the frame assembly. That's it. Now just think how many dinosaurs you'll save by not over-lubing your Glock.... The only time that I'll vary from this procedure is if I have completely stripped the slide of all oil (either thru Brake Cleaner or Ultrasonic cleaning with Simple Green). Then I'll do a drop down each slide rail. For normal, everyday cleaning, there's enough oil left in the rails that the additional is not needed.

For years, I've used the Trijicon night sights, even on my competition guns. I carry Trijicons on my duty guns, so it seemed right to use them on the comp guns also. I recently obtained some Sevigny F/O sights, but haven't had a chance to shoot 'em yet. I've dry fired and can really pick up the sights quickly because of the air gap on the sides of the front sight. Of course, like 00Bullitt says, "Everything changes under recoil", so we'll see how they work out.

the "problem" with the Compact frames is that the bottom of the magwell opening is not parallel to the boreline, like in the full-size guns. It is actually angled a bit and shorter in the back that in the front. An add-on magwell would be at that weird angle. Hence, most don't do it. One could modify the frame to make it parallel, but I am not modifying an expensive part just to make a cheap part fit.....

I wouldn't call BS on Bart for this one. Ask around at your local SASS club. There are tons of documented instances of light-loaded 45LC blowing guns up. A lot of the Cowboys use tissue paper in their loads to keep the powder settled on the bottom of the case. Doing this, they can get away with powder puff loads, but if they don't, "BANGO!!!". (Using an onomatopoeia on this site is sorta stupid, isn't it? It could start a thread over whether a cylinder rupture sounds like "Bango!" or "Pffffft".)

In most of the 3rd Generation guns that I've played with, the culprit causing mags to not drop free has been the indention in the sides of the frame that is supposedly a "thumb rest". That indention can actually protrude into the mag well itself and bind on the magazine. I would ink up the sides of a mag, then insert-and-release it several times to see if the wear mark on the magazine body coincides with either of the thumbrests.

We tested the heck out of 'em before adopting the 22C. We found that with our standard duty load, shot in TOTAL darkness, the shooter only got a dull orange glow around the front sight from the gases venting out of the ports. It was a bit worse with training ammo (primarily WWB, which gave a yellow flash visible to the shooter). It was NOWHERE NEAR the "fire-breathing dragon" effect like in the picture in the Glock ad. (I know how they shot that picture and in my opinion, it was a marketing faux pas.) In a practical sense, TOTAL darkness hardly ever exists. Most likely, there will be ambient light in some form, be it a street light, headlights of my patrol vehicle, or my flashlight. Without some form of light, I shouldn't be shooting anyway.... In low-light situations, the flash isn't any more noticeable than on the standard model 22. And the flash is so brief that it doesn't cause after-image on the retina nor a depletion of rhodopsin (visual purple). I do a LOT of low-light shooting when I'm teaching and have yet to see an after-image unless a student got careless with a flashlight. :-) If you go downrange and look uprange towards the shooter, the perceived flash is actually LESS than on a standard model. Perhaps that is due to the venting of gases in multiple directions (two comp ports and the muzzle) instead of just one, sorta like a flash suppressor on a military rifle. Comp blast is a genuine concern and there's no way to deny that. We just train "cant the gun 45-degrees if you have to use it up close". That was an easy thing for us to do because we've always taught that technique since going to semi-autos, as it will mitigate the risk of entangling the cycling slide with clothing and body parts. So it really wasn't a new thing for us. Glock probably won't appreciate this, but: The comp ports on the C-models are nowhere near as efficient as those on an expansion chamber-style compensator. They do vent pressure. Some gases do come out at high velocity. I wouldn't want to hold my hand or other body parts over the ports unnecessarily, but it wouldn't be anything like hovering over a 38S/9Major compensator.

Production and Limited M here: G-34 & 35.

My agency has used the G-22C since they came out. The main downside to the C-models for me is the noise. They are SIGNIFICANTLY louder to my ears. When we're on the outdoor range, I don't have a problem if someone fires a G-22 near me if I don't have "ears" on. If it's a C-model, I don't like to be within 30 yards of them without protection. Others don't like the fact that if you shoot it from a Retention Position close to the body, you may eat some of the high-speed particulates (unburned powder and flakes of metal) that exit through the vents. We worked around that by teaching a retention position that cants the gun to the outside at approximately a 45-degree angle. You may also want to avoid plated bullets. I have seen a 21-C that would strip two chunks out of the bullet when it passed the ports. There were two lead streaks running down the rifling that began at the ports. The bullets would often keyhole, reducing accuracy. The same gun shot GREAT with "real" jacketed bullets.