WS6

I have owned 3 M4S90's. All of them LOVED IC or MOD chokes and Remington 000 Buckshot (both 3" and 2.75", although the 2.75" did a little better). They all shot buck and slugs to the same POA, or within 2" at 25 yards. I sighted in with slugs and shifting a buckshot pattern 2" doesn't really matter when it's a foot across at that distance. I found that a Briley flush IC and MOD choke, and some 1oz Sluggers and the afformentioned buckshot and a bit of trial-error would get you about as good a buck/slug launcher as possible with this weapon.

I have had good luck with Remington 1oz@1560fps "Sluggers" from my M4. IC or MOD.

Well, it has arrived. I don't want to know any trade secrets, or anything like that, but for all the world it looks like synthetic wheel-bearing grease. It's even the same color. Can someone re-affirm that I did not spend 20X retail for synthetic wheel-bearing grease and an addative oil to thin it down? I am not knocking it, as I love the stuff, I just want to know a little more about what my money got me and why I should continue to use it instead of buying wheel-bearing grease.

Weapon is a new P226 Elite ST Temperatures will range from 45* to 105*, usually on the warmer end of things, though. Function is secondary to protection, as the weapon will always be at 70* or warmer when called upon for self-defense, if ever. Will the "regular" be too thick to protect the weapon? I come at this from an automotive standpoint, where I know that too thick of a grade of oil will lead to oil starvation of the main and cam bearings and actually cause more wear than it prevents. Does this happen in the firearm world with too heavy a grease on barrels/rails/locking areas? If so, is SG Regular too heavy when it gets cold, and could it clump/cause issues (other than jamming r/t low slide velocity)? How does SG Regular compare to TW25B with regards to viscosity? (I dont have mine yet, but I do have TW25B)?

I thought you guys liked the 357SIG round and felt that it did great. Did I miss something?

I had a P226 Elite ST in 9mm a while back. I used Tetra grease on it and it promptly became a jam-o-matic. Went to RIG+P, and it functioned great. THe grease was slowing the slide velocity. Now I have the same handgun, but in 357SIG. Also, it has been QPQ'ed ("Tenifer"). I bought the "standard" (medium) Slide Glide, thinking that it will probably work just fine well below 60* because the 357SIG is known for some decent slide-velocities. Much moreso than the 9mm. Did I get the right thing, is this "caliber specific", as I think it might be? Also, what should I put slide-glide on? Just the frame/rails/slide grooves? Or should it also go on the outside of the barrel,locking lugs etc.? Is it too thick and will it just get pushed off the outside of the barrel where it locks with the front of the slide, would an oil be better suited for this?

QPQ (or for stainless, QP) which is Tenifer, is the cheapest, hardest, best metal treatment, imho.

Eh, Bruce Gray is "some guy" with regards to your X5 just about as much as Carrol Shelby is just "some guy" with regards to your mustang.

Remember, simple green trashes aluminum. Learned this on the car forums thinking about de-greasing my LS1, lol.

IT seems that when you talk about lubricant, everyone and their brother has a favorite, and it's uglier than Ford vs. Chevy. Anyways, I guess I will wade into this one anyways. I used to use Tetra Grease on my SIG P226 Elite ST. It slowed the slide a lot. Made it less reliable. Anyways, I got another P226 Elite ST, this one in 357 SIG. I doubt it will hate grease like the 9mm one I tried the Tetra one. My question is this: Is there any advantage to using the Slide-Glide Lite over Wilson Combat Ultima Lube Grease, TW-25B Grease, RIG+P Stainless Grease? What do you guys recommend? (Slide/Frame are QPQ (tenifer) stainless steel).

I had a custom 1911 with .002" between the frame rails/slide grooves as measured by my calipers. They recommended a lightweight grease. (Wilson Ultima Lube--Universal). My rule is: grease if it slides, oil if it rotates, unless otherwise specified by the entity providing the warrenty.

No kidding, I think I bought the only stainless 357 SIG chambered P226 stateside 2 weeks ago, lol.

Clean up, or be prepaired to have someone else clean up your SRT. I have owned 2 SIG's with them and the first one was HORRIBLE. My box-stock G17 Glock w/a couple hundred down the pipe is way smoother. The second is pretty good, very little stacking in the DA, and a pretty grit-free SA pull. Bruce Gray remarked that it was one of the better SRT's he had felt. Most fall somewhere in the middle of this and a common response from SIG owners who get it is: "I can't tell a difference, I'm pissed, and it's gritty." You aren't really going to see a difference unless you train to use the reset, and then, the OEM SIG trigger can be slicked up really nice by someone like GGI. Basically what I am saying is if you get a pistol that has the SRT, awesome, it prolly needs work. If you didn't, awesome, time for a trigger job anyways. Just my .02.

I have used the rosewood grips that came stock on my P226 Elite ST. They didn't grip for beans or fit my hand. I then bought Hogue wrap-around finger groove grips. They didn't fit me well. I then tried Hogue flat-panel grips. They don't fit the gun well and interfere with the de-cocker. I then tried the OEM black plastic P226 grips and like many other SIG owners report, they don't tighten down and always shift a bit when you grip the pistol. In short. They suck for fit. I now have some Hogue black G10's headed my way. They will complete my all black QPQ'ed P226 Elite ST 357 SIG.

Sig recommends that the alloy firearms not be over-hauled, but rather replaced, at the 100K round mark.

Have known Jess Briley for lots of years...he does indeed make Beretta its chokes, as he does for Remington, Browning and a few more.... anything machined can have variances,but I wonder who is allowing you to test fire their chokes and swap them out if it does not pattern like you wish ? I know of noone who is that "open minded"....the you buy it, it is yours, comes to mind... Kick's Ind was VERY accomodating when their tubes did not pattern well for me. I was sent every buck kicker tube they make and told to send the 2 back that didn't work. Ended up, none of them did as well as my $35 Primos tube and I sent them all back. Not a word of complaint and I was promptly refunded. The higher-end choke companies understand that shotguns don't all react the same way to the same choke/load and will let you return the choke if it does not perform to your expectations. Trulock is the same way.

I have played with IC and MOD chokes and slugs from my M4. At 50 yards either will shoot Remington Sluggers as tight as you can hold. Usually 2-3" CTC if I don't pull any. Often times I have a jagged hole the size of a baseball in the paper I am shooting at if no pulling occurs.

As a matter of fact he is being gifted (the guns are mine and several years old) (2) 1911's; one in 45 and one in 9mm. They go out tomorrow. So getting a Benny Benelli for a gift from him would work out fine with me. Problem solved.

Well, ask Dad for a christmas gift and then in turn buy him something he has been wanting for a while. Make it a family bonding thing.

I guess all these fathers who buy guns for their children for christmas this year are committing a big no-no. Realistically though, your gun came all the way from Italy. Going around the US a little won't hurt it.

I still don't understand why the Benelli M4 isn't more popular. 3" magnum buckshot out of it isn't hard to handle at all, it's weight can be brought down to about 7.4-7.5# unloaded, and it can hold 9 rounds if you count ghost-loading. Performance-wise it can handle down to 2.75 dram loads if you hold it tight, and they just don't break. I have never heard of an M4 breaking since benelli went to the 2-port barrels on all of them. All the other shotguns mentioned here, a quick browse turns up of incidents of breakage.

Well, I have shot a Winchester 1500 in 20ga and my Benelli M4 in 12ga and I think the Winchester 1500 kicked harder using birdshot in both weapons. The main thing here is that Benelli's stock is worlds ahead of the others.

The SX1 suffered broken pistons often, and it just worried me that the system doesn't have a better self-regulation/relies on only one piston. I will not be getting an FN, this answered my question from another thread.

Glad to hear it, the rails like to be kept wet, LaRue MG lube being the slickest I have found for this purpose.

When I used to shoot a lot of trap, skeet and clays I just got in the habit of giving the chokes a twist before and after shooting a round. I now do it when I get the "make ready" command and after "range is clear". I won't put anything other than gun oil on the choke threads of my shotguns. It isn't worth boogering the threads. Have you had a bad experience using any of the dedicated choke-tube lubes? Gun oil is good for anti-corrosion properties, but oil typically does not perform as well as a grease, especially a metallic-base grease, in situations where pressure is involved. This is the reason for the zinc/phosphorous addatives in motor-oil that are required when running flat tappets, high-tension valve-springs, etc.