pmclaine

See this post http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=185490 Modding the motor lock ring with a set screw made making small adjustments much easier for me.

Update - this worked dynamite.

I don't get the change over is a pain complaint. By the time I changeover Ive loaded so much ammo (5 calibers on my S1050) the machine needs to be torn down, cleaned, greased and maintained anyway. Its like when the car manufacturers shut down to tool up for the new model year.

The case feed spring is pretty big (yet small gauge wire), the only one bigger is the one that returns the tool head. Not a bad score a freebie for you. Only extra thing I got was a pan head bolt duplicate of one of the ones that supports the case feeder.

On my s1050 Im set up with FL Dillon size die in station 1. The size die is set to about 80% (guess). Its main use is decapping and ironing out any neck damage. I swage on my prep head. Station 5 is the trim die/rt1200. I FL size to .003-.005 based on measurements obtained from headspace gauging my fired formed brass. I do agree the necks are tight. Once the bullets are seated they show a slight wasp waist. leaving them untouched after the trim die usually resulted in shaving some copper when seating bullets. I load boat tails. I think I would have real problems with a flat base bullet. I started hand chamfering inside/outside the case and the shaving went away. Hand chamfering sux so I bought a Hornady 3 in 1 case prep tool that I haven't had a chance to try yet. I don't do any crimping so I like the tight necks. I'm still finding my way with my machine. I have strongly considered buying a Sinclair expander mandrel in .308. I could also move the swaging operation to my loading tool head and the backer rod can be used to expand the case necks. Some have turned the backer rod down to the desired caliber to prevent the flaring operation. Im finding everyone has a pet way of setting up. Most do it similar just minor adjustments/preferences. The proof in your set up will be judged by the target.

Nothing from Fastenal is cheap?Here is a 10 pack of 8-32 nylon set screws for $6, from a place I didn't expect when I googled "nylon tip setscrew". http://kingpintattoosupply.com/nylontippedsetscrew.aspx Odd place to be looking for set screws. Those are some big set screws. The brass ones I am using are about the size of the set screws used on a Hornady bullet comparator.

Encouraging to hear because set up was only a small concern. I intend to use the motor switching between .223, .308 and 30-06 tool heads and don't want to diddle around once every thing is at its proper place.

All relevant points but my concern was with the lock ring that secures the RT1200 motor to the trim/size die. The threading on the motor and the lock ring is not a standard die thread so there is no aftermarket parts source to choose from. Check out the picture and you can see the difference in threads above/below the port for removing brass cuttings. Dillon makes the lock rings to secure the motor at your desired trim length. Im sure McMaster Carr or somebody carries a nut that would work but its likely they will be a standard ring without a set screw. The rings that secure the trim die to the tool head are your standard die thread and I use the Sinclair, cross bolt, locking rings for securing the trim die as well as any other die that there is space to use them with.

These look nice. I left it up to my machine shop to do the mod and buy the set screws. If I owned a drill press I would have done it myself. Im into my mod for $15 with a bag of brass set screws left over.

This has been tried with the motor lock nut on the RT 1200. Ive been told the two lock ring set up will interfere with the vacuum chip manifold and it does not work.

The RT motor lock ring is a different thread than standard die lock rings. There is no cross bolt option unless I had an entire lock nut built. Going with the brass screw was my cheap alternative. Lead shot under the screw is a good idea. I dont plan on using too much force with the brass and really once set I wont be moving it about much.

You should be Sizing and Decapping in Station 1, not just decaping. What your doing is trimming before sizing. Sizing also strectches the brass. I thought the trim die is a full length size die (perhaps even a small base sizing die). I size in station one to about 80% than finish size at the RT1200. You need to have the RT1200 perform some of the sizing to keep the case stable in the die while the RT spins away. I think the RT1200 trim/size die leaves a very tight case. Truth be told I might prefer a little less sizing as when I seat my bullets there is a little noticeable "waist" where the base of the bullet is seated to.

I have been using a Rapid Trim while processing my 30-06 brass. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but when I was trying to get to my trim to length I found that backing off the motor to move the motor lock ring often resulted in movement of the lock ring that made guessing back to my starting point and adjusting the motor was by hit or miss process that was more difficult than it need be. I thought boy if the motor lock ring had a set screw than I could back off the motor and the lock ring would stay in place so I could move it a skooch up or down to get my desired trim length. Well now I'm setting up for .223 and .308 so I had this done, added set screws. Likewise I am updating any die lock rings with Sinclair split/set screw rings (where they will fit) to help with setting the other dies. I'm sure others have done similar. Did any unanticipated problems occur when this was done?

I'm going to run the swage on the loading tool head per your good experiences. What had me shying away from that is I'm never certain if the backer rod is set right at the bottom of the brass and when I think it is it looked to me like it was really opening the case mouth. I'll break out the Dremel and a cutoff wheel to create some cut away brass and get the backer rod just right.

I think you guys may have saved me some money. After processing I run my brass through the Hornady case prep tool to chamfer, debur, and clean primer pockets. It's an extra step but I don't mind the mindless, boredom of it. It's my peace time. My rounds are all boat tail and I have not had issues with the jackets getting peeled. I swage prior to final sizing so there is no bell on the case. I don't crimp and haven't had issue with 30-06 slamming through a Garand. I expect no issues with a .308 or .223 AR. I think I will continue as I have been but I'm going to measure my sized necks and see what I'm getting for actual tension under .308 or .223. If its much greater than .001 or so I'll reconsider the mandrel. I like riggers idea of the double swage and the turned down backing rod. I guess that method or buying the mandrel/M die would be 6 of 1, half dozen of the other cost wise.

Im in the process of gathering tools to set up for loading .308 and .223. I load on a Dillon S1050 running two tool heads, one for prep the second for loading. Currently for 30-06 loading I set the prep tool head up as follows 1. FL size die with sizing ball. Sizer is set to just initially size the case (80%) its main function is deprime and ironing out neck dings. 2. Swage 3. Empty 4. Empty 5. RT1200 with trim/size die that trims brass and brings the case to FL size dimension. 6. Empty 7. Empty My loading tool head is set up as follows 1. Universal decap to punch out media 2. Empty 3. Prime 4. Powder 5. Empty - Pull case and trickle to weight 6. Seat 7. Empty Loading progressive Im not expecting lovingly made single stage bench rest rounds but I get pretty good ammo and want to improve where I can. I think the Dillon trim/size die really squeezes the necks of my brass. I get a little wasp waist where the bullet seats. I dont crimp so this may be a good thing. Im wondering if I can make it a better thing by using the Sinclair mandrel die after the cases are FL sized. I think this may get me a uniform minus .001 neck tension. Any thoughts on adding a mandrel die to my rifle loading setups? If it matters Im not annealing, though I really would like a Gracey Annealer at some point. Thank you for your time.

These pliers worked well to remove/replace the circlip. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031R7LKQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A21IDDNC24RX5D

Not a pro at this but in your shoes at the same stage of the game. I think the difference comes in when you compare production vs setup. Sure fine you produced one perfectly sized case during set up but so many things change once you start pulling the handle and cranking out ammo - lever pull, she'll plate full, powder dropping etc. I'm thinking meeting a desired, close to consistent load requires, setting the die under production conditions. Pull ten measure the datum line average, adjust die, pull another ten, etc. The almost there rounds will be functional but maybe you should use them for practice. When you finally get dialed in under production conditions don't change anything. That's my theory.

I thought about building it but I would have obsessed about getting router bits to make a pretty edge and than bought some gold plated leveling feet and a NASA certified bubble level. I'm my own worst enemy when it comes to accomplishing the simple.

Had an electronic I bought from a vendor that sells nothing but great top notch products. Thing is it wouldn't work in my loading area for whatever reason. I lost all confidence in it after seeing my balance always give me a repeatable reading right up until the humidity made my shelf cup.Thankfully the vendor fully comped me for the scale on his 100 percent guarantee. That guy is awesome.

Took the expensive way to help get more consistent powder weights. The shelf I set my scale on is made of wood. It used to be dead level but last time I was loading I noted it cupped some and my balance scale was not zeroing or checking out with check weights. Could have probably made a leveling platform but time is at a premium so I bought one of these ready made ones from a scientific company Sadly it cost more than the scale. Posting here in case anyone needs a project idea. I got mine from these guys leveling platform

I don't think .308 ammo is legal to buy in either configuration. If you want projectiles only to load in 30-06 (exempt as it is a rifle caliber) projectiles come up from time to time on the CMP want to sell forums. Here is an ad for loaded 30-06. http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=102143

I tried polishing the powder funnel with unsatisfactory results. For stick powder I pull the case after the powder drop - drop is set to throw below desired charge - and I trickle up to my target charge weight. I load on a S1050.

Right now all calibers on my S1050 are "quick change" ie individual tool heads and peripherals for each step of the reloading operation for each caliber. I'm lazy. I really like just mounting a tool head and being ready to go. I need two more rifle calibers and with the prospect of 4 tool heads, dies and everything else I'm trying to save somewhere and I think being able to reuse my RT1200 motor already owned may be one answer. I'm sure some enterprising reloader has come up with a lock ring to screw the motor down on like is used for dies. Something like these by Sinclair except threaded for the Rapid Trim die http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/reloading-dies/replacement-parts-amp-upgrades/sinclair-lock-rings-3pk--prod38782.aspx I guess I could buy a second motor lock ring and just bind the two together to allow me to spin the motor off without losing my trim setting. Another option would be to drill the existing lock ring and install a set screw. I find the best ideas are already in use by someone on the forum. Thank you for any assistance you can provide.